Saturday, August 8, 2020

Simplicity 8890

When I got my July Burda I was smitten with this tent dress





But I didn't have enough of any fabric - it takes 3.5 m so pretty close to 4 yards. I decided that S8890 was similar (it is not) and that it would be a good test on if I liked this style on me. Low risk!



I cut a size 14 which is my normal size for neck/shoulders. I didn't size or grade up for my hips because there's a lot of volume.


I've mentioned this with other patterns, both Big4 and Indie, but in an attempt to make stuff "easier", you often ends up with a cumbersome task.  The front neckline finish is a bias cut piece. The straps are bias cut pieces. And the ties are bias cut pieces. For the straps you're supposed to press up a 3/8" hem on one side which is laborious! After getting annoyed with the first go-round, I folded the strap in half, lightly pressed then folded each end to the center fold. MUCH easier! It would have been even nicer if it were sized to go through a bias tape maker but...whatever!




I like the adjustable straps (it uses rings and sliders and I had some clear ones in stash) but otherwise? Meh. Oh, and I had these cord stops in stash (Milly from Fabric Mart) and I like them! LOL!


The back doesn't stay cinched. There's SO much fabric that I think the ties are expected to do too much work. And the problem with this is, if it loosens, the back is so low that you risk some exposure!
Biggest dislike is the balance (or lack thereof!). This is the back side seam vs. front side seam. The back is very close to being a rectangle; the side seam is almost straight -- out of view is the CB which is cut on the fold -- so you can see the side seam on the back is *slightly* angled. But the front side seam is SHARPLY angled. If you scroll back up a bit, you'll see the result of this in my side view pic. 

I hate it.


The side seams DO match in length...but that weird swingy bit that results in the front? MEHHHHH.

So this is what you get when it's on the body. There is way more fabric in back so it's moreso tilting this way:


Which makes me want to pull it down in front and then you have this:


The paper reflects what it does on the body and it makes it annoying and fiddly to wear. I do not do fiddly clothes!! 

So while it is very swingy and light and summery (and cute layered with a tee!), it likely won't survive in the wardrobe. There is nothing worse for me than needing to constantly adjust my clothes.

AND, I don't even want to sew the Burda now. While it is more balanced, both front and back are essentially rectangles that are then pleated (and it has a CB seam to absorb some of that heaviness), it is way too much fabric in back. There are a handful of reviews on the Russian Burda site that made me change my mind.



21 comments:

  1. awww. its cute though! but i agree, i hate fiddly clothes

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  2. Oooh, I had a halter neck dress pattern ages ago from a Japanese book that did exactly this too! You can't win.

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  3. It does have a lovely line framing your neck and shoulder area
    and the fabric is flattering
    But fiddly... life is too short

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  4. Well I understand why you put the pattern number in the blog post title. Anyone searching this pattern number will see your negative review. I'm sorry this didn't work out for you. I hate sewing clothing that makes me want to give it away when I'm done!

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    1. It took me forever to finish it likely cause I knew I wasn’t feeling it. Blehhhh.

      I don’t have an issue with posting full pattern info on *my* blog. I refuse to hashtag and give *them* clicks on IG.

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  5. Did you read the Russian Burda site or did you translate? I’d like a way to translate.

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    Replies
    1. If it's on a web site, you can use the translate function embedded in most browsers....

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    2. Chrome auto translates! And, I’ve been on the site so many times that I can navigate to the magazines without translating. Lol!!!!

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  6. I've sewn Butterick 5643 and found it to be a great maxi dress. Once you're ready to tackle a maxi dress again, you might want to give this one a try.

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    1. Thanks! Oh I have plenty of maxi dress patterns in the stash, lol!!! I was really drawn to the style (love the back!!) but think it’s just more volume than I’d like.

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  7. Too bad--it could have been a cute summer dress, but disappointing drafting and construction technique--why? Seems so amateurish for an established pattern company, doesn't it? Your reviews are so helpful!

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    1. Yes! It does seem very amateurish! That’s a great descriptor.

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  8. I love the line drawing of the jacket with the Simplicity slip dress, but looking at the jacket MimiG wears, it's nothing special. I wonder if it's the fabric or if it's just the quality of drafting similar to the slip dress....

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    1. It is a fine jacket and it seems lots of people made nice versions of it!

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  9. This is a wonderful review and explanation about the balance issue. I wish it could have worked out better for you, yet I understand the frustrations you experienced with this pattern.

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  10. What a shame the dress didn’t work out. I love the back but the risk of wardrobe function with the crazy hang is not good. I learned a great way to use paper to make the folds in bias or straight grain binding or strips, and your post inspired me to write it up and post tonight if you are interested. You can make them to fit any size fabric strips. http://creativespurtsandtrickles.blogspot.com/2020/08/folded-strips-for-straps-or-binding.html

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  11. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  12. I love your fabric, it's really cool for summery dresses.

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