Thursday, August 27, 2020

Another Dress! Burda 5/2019 #104

I'm always talking about something I saw somewhere but rarely remember where. I'm sorry! LOL!

I saw a wrap dress with 2 tiers of ruffles in a vertical stripe and went completely nuts for it. I knew I'd be making one and was drawn to this print. Sure, I was mildly afraid of it looking Big Tent (clownish) but's awesome!

So, I now have several dbp dresses. I am still not a huge fan of the fabric but man if the vibrant colors and prints don't draw me in! I definitely can't wear it on my lower half and am not sure how people make pants of this stuff! WHEW! At any rate, it's too warm for the warmest days; it was about 85 when I took the pics and I was hot. I meant to show it with a denim jacket but, HOT. Too hot! It was really cute though when I tried it on :)

This wrap dress from the May 2019 Burda was a great match and just needed a ruffle (I decided against 2 tiers). I cut a size 40 neckline, 42 front and 44 back (after the armholes). It came out a little too big, I probably didn't need to grade to a 44, but it's fine.

It wasn't until I tried it on to decide how long the ruffle should be that I realized the front isn't cut on the straight of grain because of the wrap front. DOH! My stripes aren't actually vertical!! I was kind of over it at that point and almost quit the project. But honestly, I like it! The back is vertical and the ruffle is horizontal and the front slightly biased, the ties are on the crossgrain...I love how everything came together.

I had my hair in 2 french braids for the past few days. I took them out and it seems like within moments, I had a fro! LOL!!! One of my favorite hairstyles will always be front up/back down so I'm loving it anyhow! And, I love this dress and want to hug it! But it wasn't without trials because, of course!

I used my serger to do the gathering (you must try it!). My ruffle panels are about 55" wide and 11" long (I wanted a finish length of 10"). I gathered this 4.5+ yards of fabric in like, less than 5 minutes! Ahhhhhh. 

I always read the Burda instructions but it usually reads like gibberish. Usually, if you follow the steps, it ends up making sense. Most of the time, the garment has straightforward enough construction that I just use methods/order that I want. But, this time I didn't follow directions and got to place where I was stuck. 

Ohhhhhhh! That's what they meant! I couldn't figure out why they'd want me to make a separate back band or why the side seams were sewn first. 

Well, so that you don't do what I did, the shoulder casings is why! The side seams are sewn, the armhole, back neckline, and front neckline are all faced and turned inside and topstitched. Then, you sew the shoulders together, press open the seam, and topstitch on either side to form a casing for the shoulder tie. Hemming the neckline and armhole first results in an opening at both neckline and shoulder.  

Because I'd already sewn the shoulder seam, I ended up having the shoulder pulled up a bit because I needed enough seam allowance to make a casing! Because of course I serged it initially, when I removed the serger stitches, I only had 1/4" of seam allowance. I sewed the seam at 1/2" and made 3/8" casings. I also made the ties a bit narrower to account for this. For the neck and armhole binding, I didn't use Burda's measurements mainly because I prefer a narrower topstitch and usually go for 3/8" or 1/2". 

And of course I used more of my Milly cordstops! I love the look!!

I cut 2 pieces from the same section for the ties and flipped them so that one side had pink facing and blue striped under and vice versa on the other. Just another area where I played with the stripes.

You can see here that the shoulder is sitting a little bit back, and I can feel that 1/2" difference when it's on, but it doesn't result in discomfort so I can live with it. 

Lastly, pics in which I accidentally serve face! 

I haven't done anything I set out to do in August but what else is new! :-p I did finish the baby set though! :-D It didn't defeat me!


  1. Beautiful dress! I love the stripe play.

  2. Te quedó espectacular. Con un aire ochentoso😀¡ Me encanta!

  3. You are gorgeous. Thanks for sharing your project with us. Love the fabric, as well. Everything looks amazing!

  4. You made great choices and it looks amazing and so attractive on. Your "mistakes" are only ones YOU would notice.

  5. You are a riot! I love this dress and it's fabulous on you. I'm with you on DBP...always feels like I'm wearing PJs but the vibrancy of the prints just suck us in.

  6. That is super cute, love the colors and stripe placement. As for that fabric, sometimes I'm web browsing and see a really nice print, then look at the fabric type and say nope! it has a weird feeling to me, kind of clammy.

  7. This stripe works for this dress! And your workmanship looks real good! By the way, I'm kinda fascinated by your knitting machine. Such professional results! I started hand knitting a little over a year ago and have yet to make anything too wearable. But I'm hooked.

  8. All the views are beautiful, but the back view is just knockout! I haven't worn anything with ruffles in years, but this is a real tempter.

  9. This is such a stunning dress on you! I love that you added the ruffle, it fits so well. Also, the baby outfit is THE BEST!!!!!

  10. Your dress really popped. I like it. And I love that baby cardigan. Are you able to say what the pattern is, or did you make it up as you went?

  11. I love your dress! You look awesome in it as well. I have a nice Juki serger that has a gathering foot and your ruffle reminded me I need to learn that technique. Very professional and obviously quick.

  12. Not sure how I found my way to your blog but just want to say love the way the stripes ended up :-D the dress is fantastic!

  13. Your baby ensemble is beautiful. Love the color, sort of the color of fog at dawn. Love your dress, so awesome.

  14. I love, love, love this dress! Perfect use of stripes. Stunning!

  15. I love the dress! The colors and the use of the stripes are so fun!

  16. I'm another fan of the dress, and the diagonal stripe! I know it wasn't intentional but I think the slight diagonal draws the eye down and creates more interest than a straight up-and-down stripe. Fantastic!

    -Caroline/@carobanano on IG


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