Sewing Plan: Fall Mini Wardrobe

I haven't had sewing successes lately :( But I started a wool skirt and I am excited about it. So I'm going to FOCUS and create some items that I hope make me happy! 

Initially, I wanted a slit-front skirt and was going to make a black wool version of S8175. Ultimately, I decided I wanted a perfectly flat-front and am going to use M3830, view B, with side slits instead of a back walking vent. 

I also plan to knit a version of this ribbed top I saw in an old Passap magazine (the 60s Passap patterns are a treasure trove of beautiful design!). 

I want to make a pair of trousers too in a taupe or tan or other non-white nude, and at least two silk tops.

For the pants, I'm going with a TNT for me, V9032. It's been awhile since I sewed them, but ankle pants have ruled for years. This version I sewed is exaclty what I want right now!

For the tops, I plan to remake S8216 and B5965. It's been a LONG time since I've made either, but they both worked extremely well for me and I really (really!) need a win or two. 

B5965

S8216

If I can keep up the momentum, I really(!) want to make B6901 vest and pants...so we'll see how things go. 

Finished Object: Butterick 5526 and Updates

I posted HERE when I planned out this project and HERE with info on adjustments and construction. I  have to admit, I did not like it when I first finished it. I called it a "Post Office" shirt! LOL!!! I finally wore it after washing it a couple of times (I dislike when it's super crisp).

Wearing it has shown that removing all of the cap ease DOES impact the fit a little - I think it limits my mobility a bit when I bring my arms forward. But it isn't straining or pulling, so there's that. Luckily, I had a tracing and adjusted that; the original sleeve is intact.

I wore it with my aqua? mint? jeans...it also pairs well with camel, red, navy, and black. I didn't like it as much with a pair of mid-toned blue pants (post office!!). 

And after looking at the pics in the black skirt I was like, geez, I look so blocky! And yep...this skirt is too big. I can pinch like 3" out of the waist. 

I really like the sleeve more and more! I added a center seam and topstitched that seam. It looks really good. This pattern has no dart control at all...if I made it again I'd either make it a bit looser overall or do a cheater FBA. The side view shows it's flattening my chest a bit. 

Good thing this turned out well because EVERYTHING ELSE I've been working on is MEHHHHHHHHH!

I put the yellow dress  in timeout and while the Burda shorts turned out well (I'm tempted to make another pair but feel like full-on fall will immediately arrive if I do)... 

...the double gauze wasn't fun to sew and I realized I messed up the collar on the shirt. I feel mildly over it.

I understitched the facings but they are still super floppy and I have no confidence in sewing buttonholes in this fabric. You can see in this pic where I messed up attaching the collar.

I was so close to recutting the shorts but luckily, I posted about the fabric growing and someone told me it would be fine once washed. WHEW!! Apparently it grows while sewing but once I washed them, they were perfect. 

I went to insert a sleeve on the yellow dress and sewed the entire thing only to realize there was NEVER any thread in the bobbin. OY VEY! The next night, I tried again and sewed the sleeve inside out. Totally in the naughty bin now. Hmmph!

Sewing Plan: Style Arc Monty Shirt and Burda 7/2017 Shorts

That's a mouthful of a title! But using the full pattern name makes things more searchable in the google :)

If you've been following my sewing adventures of the NL6692 dress (Plan here) on IG, you'll know that I officially HATE sewing this pattern! There are some annoying aspects of the pattern, combined with the shifty rayon challis, and it just hasn't been an enjoyable experience. However, it looks cute on, so I persevere!

I got a stash influx from a knitting friend (almost all natural fibers) and I immediately pulled out a few pieces of fabric to sew. 

A silky cotton woven, a linen (enough for shorts), and a cotton and/or linen(?) double gauze (?)

We had a high of like 65 on Saturday, so fall is on the way! But, I also know it will for sure warm up again, so I decided to go for it and make another summer addition to the wardrobe. 

I wanted to make a 2-piece set and settled on this short pattern from the Burda 7/2017 issue right away. I will probably exclude the trim that's sewn to the side seams and serve as a sort of tab. I definitely plan to include the cording with beads though! Very cute!!

In my very humble opinion, the Russian site is the best organized for viewing magazine issues and line drawings. 

This is a direct link to search by year and month, and view the full photos for each issue: Russian site by year

But THIS link...far more helpful!! Tech Drawings by year

This links to all of the at-a-glance sheets of the tech drawings from 2022 with links to each year back to 2014. I stopped subscribing after 2022 so I don't have the link for 2023, but I'm sure it's there. 

It took me awhile to decide on a shirt but I knew I wanted a loose fitting, somewhat boxy, button-front top and :lightbulb:! I remembered I had the Style Arc Monty.

Style Arc, like Burda is one of those pattern companies that just works for me. From their site, "Style Arc patterns are drafted for a B bust cup size and a height of 167cm (5'6")."

Personally, I think they draft for a slightly narrower shoulder too. Now, I get fussy about their instructions (I've found a mistake or two), but the draft works and their designs are always fresh.

I'll be using Fashion Sewing Supply's Tricot knit interfacing in white, and buttons I bought from M&J (who is going out of business!!!) on my 2018 trip to NYC. I also have beads in my stash from a Fabric Mart order some time ago. 

Sewing Plan and Fitting: New Look 6692

I had plans to refresh my loungewear wardrobe when a knitting friend invited me to shop her stash. She's long since retired and had a wonderful stash of nearly 100% natural fibers and I scored on wools and silks of all weights, colors, patterns and prints. Woohoo!!

I detoured from my detour and decided to make a summer dress that could transition to fall. I think the color and length allows it to be worn with sandals and when the air is a little crisp, with a cardigan, denim jacket, and booties. 

I am sewing view A in a floral rayon challis that has a mustard background and red, white, and blue in the flowers. 

New Look patterns work really well for me and don't require a lot of adjustments. I cut a size 14 and graded the back bodice to a 16 at the waist and cut a 16 skirt back. I shortened the bodice 1" through the back and on the side front, 1" at the side seam tapering to nothing at the princess seam. 

The pattern calls for 12 rows of elastic sewn into casings. I don't know if you've ever sewn more than 2 rows of elastic in a casing, but it gets progressively difficult. One, I just didn't want to do that. But also, WHY NOT JUST DO SHIRRING?! I cut my panel, shirred it, and it was a tiny bit smaller than the pattern piece, but the shirring is super stretch and it's fine. Worth noting that the casings were 1/2" wide, I shirred it at more like 3/8" and just kept making rows until I got to the bottom that's meant to be left plan. Then, you hit it with a shot of steam and watch it draw up. It's fun! haha! Speaking of stretchy shirring, I eliminated the zipper. I didn't find it necessary with that and the gathered skirt.

My fabric was really, really shifty and I kept having to re-find the grainline and wasted fabric. I didn't have enough for the sleeves and 3 panels for the lower flounce. But, the flounce is just a rectangle! It measured about 17.5" (cut on the fold), for a total of 52.5" folded of fabric. Well, my fabric was at least 58" wide so I just cut two 26" lengths on the fold. 

Current state, it needs side seams sewn, flounce hemmed, gathered and attached, and sleeves inserted. Final step will be to stitch the bodice lining to the skirt. 

I have NOT enjoyed sewing this pattern. It has been a real slog and I almost quit. Luckily, I tried it on as best I could with a partially constructed garment and it is REALLY cute. 

Machine Knitting - Minnesota State Fair Entries!

The MN State Fair is apparently the second most-attended fair in the country behind Texas' state fair. It's a big deal!

I'd only been to the fair a few times, ever, and while I'd visited the Creative Activities building, and ooh'd and ahh'd over the things hanging up, I never thought I would have anything hanging in those display cases! When I joined the machine knitting group, I learned that we had many members who had won many ribbons over the years. Two years ago, I knit my best pair of socks and everyone was like, "you should enter them into the fair!" and I thought they were gassing me! HA! Well, I won a BLUE RIBBON for those socks! 

Last summer, it was all house stuff, 24/7. So I didn't submit any entries. But I knew I wanted to a) submit some things this year and b) stretch myself on those projects. 

Now, important to note that you can submit anything made within 3 years. But, I know I'm not going to submit something that I've been wearing regularly, so I plan to make the things I'm going to make. Registration is due a couple weeks before the drop off date so it's best to over-register and under-deliver. I registered for 6 categories this year:

1. Baby 0-2 
2. Winter accessory (hat, mittens, gloves, etc)
3. Pullover sleeveless adult sweater or vest
4. Adult suit
5. Pullover plain adult sweater (can include stripes)
6. Pullover textured adult sweater (like tuck or lace)

I submitted to the first 4 categories. I had a cute top going for the 5th but had yarn bleed and decided to cut my losses on that project. I will finish it, because I like the top, but it wasn't going to be "right" for entry so I moved on. 

I intended to make a garment for the textured category but ended up submitted that item to the sleeveless category. 

1) For the baby outfit, I used a cotton yarn - three strands of very fine cotton loosely twisted together. This yarn did not want to do ANYTHING other than stockinette. It knits up beautifully though!! But tuck, garter, all those other things were out of the question with the individual strands of yarn. The machine hated it. It's a size 6 months (approximately). I never worry too much about baby outfits. If gauge is close enough, that's good enough. It's a baby. Chances are it's a very short term wear and it's more about the thoughtfulness. 

I did an envelope shoulder for the first time and I DID TWO DRY-RUNS and still did the shoulder backwards. ARGH! When working on the machine, you're purl side facing, and I mixed up the directions. So that might prevent a 1st place win but maybe 2nd :) (they judge harshly! LOL!)

look at those tiny poms! (made with a fork!)

2) Next up, I intended to make a pair of fair-isle mittens and at the last minute, pivoted. I wanted vertical stripes without knitting sideways and worked out how to do it and knit a couple samples and LOVED it. Woohoo!!!! I used scraps of sock yarn that was in my stash but now I want to buy yarn for the style and make up a handful with different color schemes. A couple friends have expressed interest so they shall have them. 

I'd had a few false starts with the hat and then somehow talked myself into going into the craft room at like 9:30 p.m. I then made changes to the sizing on the fly (sigh). I added 8 rows of ribbing (so another inch) and instead of knitting 10 rows of each color change (also an inch -ribbing knits up a little tighter), I went to 12 rows. Well, that 2 extra rows x 6 changes = 12 rows or a little over an inch. So now I've added 2 inches to the "height" of my hat. DOH! But it's still CUTE!

3) One of my goals this year was to start using my mid-gauge machine more. It is so handy in that the stitches are SO much larger than the standard gauge, it's easier to do some hand-manipulation...but it's a plastic bed machine and doesn't have a ribber or electronics or anything. I bought a few projects worth of DK and Worsted yarn for the purpose.

I picked up this Plymouth Yarn Sea Isle (in Lime) on a recent trip to Chicago from Wool & Co. It's a chainette pima/merino blend so it's super squishy! I thought the lace motif would really stand out in this yarn and I think I was right! Initially, I'd planned to a cable on each side of the lace but decided to let this design shine on its own. 

The lace is all manipulated by hand with a transfer tool. AND I was talking to a friend while working on it! That means it's SUPER easy! lol!!! When I do short row shaping, I still have to pause my music and focus really, really hard on what I'm doing. 

This photo is before I weaved in all the ends and gave it a final steam, but showing it on Lily gives a better idea of fit (though Lily is a little larger than I am so it is a loser fit)

4) The woman that sold me my machine and gave me my first few lessons was a designer and test knitter for St. John. She also designed a pant pattern to sell (cough, cough). I was determined to make the pants and bought a 1.5 pound cone of wool/rayon crepe yarn in suede from Made In America Yarns for the purpose. I'd bought a second BIG cone (that's what they call 'em) in eggplant to make a skirt and cardigan. Well, I was halfway through the top before thinking, "so interesting I bought this and I don't normally wear this color..." Well, that's because I bought it for PANTS. oy! 

I created all of the garment patterns in the Knit it Now software. You start with a base pattern, input custom measurements and yarn gauge, and it creates a pattern.

I decided on this round neck, fitted top but wasn't 100% on the "right" measurements for each section. Yes, I measured myself and it all seemed fine, but it is a little longer than I'd typically wear, so that's something to keep in mind. I have a short torso and do not like to wear longer length tops for the most part. 

The skirt is a straight skirt with minimal shaping on the lower half (I think the bottom hem is about 1" narrower than the hip). I used about 2 inches of negative ease in the hip and 1" positive ease in the waist. IT LOOKS SO CUTE ON! I don't have pics though (because it was nighttime and dark and I'm not wearing a bra so those will stay in the photo album!) until I get it back from the fair. 

I did ribbed hems on the sweater (1" on the bottom and about 3/4" on the sleeve) and I did stockinette with picot edge for the neckband. The skirt is finished with a hung hem (essentially a fold-over hem). 

It's not quite finished though (shhhhh). This yarn wants to be steamed hard. That brings out the drape and softness, but I couldn't risk it not drying in time, so I lightly steamed after wet-blocking. But look at this pic before blocking or steaming:

steaming really brings this yarn to life!

Here is the in-progress sweater that was going to be entry #5. It wasn't until I was about to stitch down the neckband that I realized the center stripe on the front had bleed from the olive yarn. It is REALLY discolored compared to the bright white band :/

The other issue that caused me not to submit this one, with this being a sideways knit, you cast on a sleeve, knit to the body, cast on for the body, knit across, cast off the body, ,knit the sleeve, cast off the sleeve. I have done this but only on a round neck, never a v-neck. 

Do you see it??

The first side has nice, fully fashioned decreases. The second side is messy by comparison. I'll ask my knitting group if there's a fix for that. I *think* I know what it is but want to verify. 

And don't mind that messed up stitch in the band on the left, I will fix it when I stitch down the band :)

Now that that's done...whew! I have some SEWING to do! 

I was given a whole bunch of amazing wools and silks from a knitting friend's stash and I am still sorting through it all, but have already identified 3 must-have-now garments from the fabrics. More soon :)