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Monday, February 24, 2020

Remakes: B6183 and NL6150

I have intended on returning to Butterick 6183 for awhile. I made a couple versions and wore them until they died or didn't fit anymore. The 3rd version was made with bad fabric.

As mentioned in a prior post, I went to SR Harris to look for black fabric to use for the cuffs of my lace hoodie and found this scrap. I got home and performed a burn test and it was clearly cotton plus something else and I'm fairly certain that something else is silk. I took the completed top with me to a meetup and a couple of people agreed. SCORE! I paid $4 for this remnant and eeked out this top and my hoodie's cuffs. YAY!

I was so excited to get started and then remembered that this pattern had cup sizing and my formerly adjusted pattern wouldn't work anymore. Grrr! LOL!

I cut it out in a 14 B-cup and added width at the back hemline for my butt. I undid my swayback adjustment but now I'm realizing I do need it. The hem is level with the fabric still pooling around the back waist. I also did a 1.5" full bicep adjustment. I ended up basting the whole dang thing (sans sleeves) before sewing it. I'm realizing I need a forward shoulder adjustment, which I rigged up on this version by adjusting the seam allowance (tapering to nothing at the neck). 
I had a tough time getting these sleeves inserted. The fabric wasn't too thrilled to be eased. I redid them a couple of times then gave up.

I did not have enough fabric for facings and didn't have a nice black fabric that would work for bias binding so I used an off white fabric. I understitched it too just to be sure it wouldn't show at all.
The bustline fits so nicely! The zipper was pulled from the enormous stash. I believe I got these from SR Harris many moons ago. The beaded trim was purchased on a trip to Kokoon Fashion last year.

It's such a nice top that just feels special <3

New Look 6150 was one of the first patterns I ever made back in 2013! I just loved those sleeves!  I am 100% into the statement sleeve trend and knew I'd sew this up soon. I found myself with some time and a cut of wool jersey that I'd forgotten about.

I started sewing in January 2013 and sewed this top in February 2013. When I pulled out in 2020, I had a WHAT THE HECK?! moment looking at the pattern pieces. The cut lines were janky! LOL! Some parts were cut at a 14 and some at a 16 but I don't think it was on purpose.

So I cleaned up my cuts and cut it in a size 14 doing a slash and spread to add to the hip. I also ended up sewing the cb seam at 1/4". This wool jersey must not have any lycra because it pretty much does not stretch and is a bit snug across the back. I didn't do a bicep adjustment because the sleeves are pretty large. I figured I'd sew the seam allowance smaller, but didn't need to.
Oh another thing? My neckbinding pattern piece and elastic guide for the sleeve was *poof* gone. A sewing friend got me the measurements but by then I'd guessed on the sleeve elastic. I was a little short :) so they aren't as gathered as they should be I think it's fine though! 
I love the sleeves! I think the pattern doesn't fit me well above the bust. I have to explore this stuff from a new perspective and it's throwing me!

I recently wore a version of B6621 and when I'd rest, I'd notice the fabric fold above the bust. The NL6150 top does the same thing:
pre and post reduction

Totally need to focus on the bodice sloper. Soon...soon!

Also, this version of Nl6150 was cut out in May 2013 and sewn together. Then it sat, waiting for bindings and a hem. Every time I've cleaned out my (small) UFO basket, I've kept this top. At some point, I added the bindings (which really the neckline has a facing, not a binding).


The other day, I pulled it out and hemmed it! So it's finally done almost 7 years later!!! LOL! I've always loved the print and could never get rid of it.

Print up close:


Lastly, I've had 2 knitting lessons so far and it's going great! This second lesson I learned to operate the machine's electronics and made a dishcloth during the lesson. I now have 8 of them! LOL! They measure about 12x16" coming off the machine but it's 100% cotton and will shrink (more length than width).



They are so fun and QUICK to knit! Each one takes about 20 minutes (took 15 with her! lol!).

I was supposed to make 3 more then schedule my next lesson. She gave me 5 different cones of yarn and I have a feeling there's going to be dozens of these things! :-D

Next 2 lessons we will make a sweater for a kid. So exciting!!








14 comments:

Robyn said...

That black top is gorgeous, I can see why it's a favourite. My grainline studio tops (scout and willow) also end up folded above the bust when I'm not moving and I've never been able to work out why, looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

I love that black top and I always want things with some beads or sparkle but can't deal with sewing on individual beads. So the beaded trim in a seam is a great idea and I have to look for some. I have that NL pattern and have never made that version but the wrap version I've made maybe 6 times? Have to like a pattern that gives you multiple views in one envelope. some of those NL patterns are quite the bargain when you think about it. also - silk/cotton, I have a couple of tops and it is lovely to sew and wear. Nice!

Unknown said...

Love the black top! And I’m jealous of those dishcloths. Please don’t start me wanting to knit... the last thing I need is more hobbies 🤣

Bunny said...

Your all black outfit is just fabulous, the hair pulled back, the beads, just every detail. Love it!

Vanessa said...

B6183 is wonderful on you! The trim is perfect. I think I have NL 6150. Maybe I can pull it out this summer. All your knitting looks great!

Su said...

Your black top is a stunner! What a good use of your special fabric.

Eilea Princeton said...

I read this already. Why am i getting repeat feeds?

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

No clue! Maybe it's an issue with your RSS Feed or Blogger.

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thank you!!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thank you!!!! :-D

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thanks Bunny! I love it!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thank you!

HAHA! I get the no more hobbies thing!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thank you! I could NEVER hand sew beads! Whew! A woman attended our local meet up and had adorned a beautiful hand-dyed silk scarf with beads. It was a real stunner but I know I'd never do the work!

I LOVE New Look patterns! Such a bargain!!!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Hmmm, interesting! I will have to do some testing to figure the fold out!