Hobbies on Hobbies

A few months ago, I was at my machine knitting meet-up, and one of the weavers had a BEAUTIFUL silk alpaca scarf that she'd wove on her rigid heddle loom. I was so taken...so enamored, that I stopped all other conversation so I could ask questions. 

I decided that day that I was buying a rigid heddle loom for my birthday, and treating myself to a class. Initially, I had BIG plans to go to the Yarn Barn of Kansas and make a mini trip out of it (I really like visiting Kansas City). 

The Yarn Barn class is two days, 9:30am-4:30pm and costs $140. You use a worsted weight fiber to weave a scarf. The Weavers Guild of MN class is three days, 5-9 pm and costs $240. There were four project options to choose from, using more of a sport weight yarn. And of course, I save on travel expenses...but miss out on a solo trip to KC! Decisions!! 

Other priorities arose, and I opted to take the course here at the Weavers Guild. 

We used a 20" Schacht Flip rigid heddle loom. We set the loom up and warped on day 1. Warping was very meditative and I felt like I had it DOWN. Ha! Apparently, I was moving really slowly and just barely got through the day 1 tasks. I was trying to keep everything perfectly aligned the entire time, and while it's important to try to maintain tension, there are a lot of steps that gets things nice and even and straight before you start weaving. 

Day 2, WEAVING! It was so cool to see the work start to come alive on the loom. All six of us in class had very different color combos, and there were a few different patterns to choose from, so it was nice to see everyone else's work too. We were able to take our looms home that night and I finished my placemats at home the morning before my last class. 

AND, I removed the work from the loom, folded up my hems, and had started hand stitching them.

Day 3, I got in and told her I was hemming them and she was SHOCKED that I'd removed the work by myself. I *thought* we were supposed to - haha! And I read the instructions and watched several videos before doing so. I finished sewing my hems, and spent some time roaming the shop. 

The manager asked if I did other crafts and I told her that I sew and machine knit. She excitedly shared that she was just given a knitting machine and was excited to start. I told her about our group and that I'm the current president (Yep! haha!) and she should join us. She then gave me the scoop - if I become a member of the guild, I can get 15% off my loom and accessories (and fiber!) starting next week. SOLD! 

I finished up the hem stitching and once everyone else had their work off the loom, we looked at various items the instructor has made (helpful to see varying fibers, weights, ends per inch, etc), talked about methods to plan out a project, how to determine your warp, methods to choose colors, etc. She explained wet finishing (similar to blocking in knitting) and shared some other resources. I'll definitely be taking her Pickup class to expand my options on the loom!

They're the same size! woohoo!

Today, I warped up the loom by myself (it was so different and took me forever!!) to make two more placemats with the remainder of the cotton. I also bought cotton to make a table runner for my dining table. I will likely go through all four projects from the class before venturing out to other things :)

When I researched initially, I was sold on getting the Schacht Cricket loom. It's a table loom, available in a 10" or 15" size. But the Flip has some extra capabilities, is larger in depth, and comes in 15", 20", 25" and 30". From everything I've read, there's a balance in choosing the size. You need the right size for the types of projects you want to make, but as a beginner, larger looms can be unwieldy. You can make items as narrow as you like...and can make scarves and wraps up to the width of the heddle, hand/tea/wash/dish towels, and yardage. I'm really unsure on the 20" or 25" -- the cost isn't an issue. The 20" is only $20 more than the 15" and the 25" is only $40 more than the 20"...but I don't want to limit myself.

When I mentioned the Cricket to the instructor, she gave me a little smirk and shook her head no, and said, "You'd outgrow that VERY fast." So, I'll check with her on her thoughts on the 20" vs. the 25" with the projects that I have in mind. 

I also spent part of my day off FINALLY hemming these IKEA curtains. My 75-year old house has 8-foot ceilings, and my living room has coved moulding so these 8-foot curtains were WAY too long. I measured them while hanging, took them down one at a time, measured, cut, and double turned the hem. It looks pretty good!!

A New Jacket, Just in Time for Summer? Simplicity 2508

At the beginning of March, we got dumped with a huge pile of snow (like nearly a foot!). I'd been complaining about my black wool coat being too big. I'd ordered a couple different coats online and none of them fit well, plus, the fabrics were subpar. 

On its maiden voyage to my office

I decided to use a pattern that I've made before (coincidentally, in March, but in 2015!) to make it easier on myself and to make it quickly (I did not make it quickly). As these things go, I started the coat on March 5 and finished it on April 20th. 

2015 version in pink wool blend from Hancock Fabrics ( :tears: )

I decided to use a camel-colored wool from stash (that came from a woman in my machine knitting group), brown buttons from stash, and champagne-colored rayon lining from stash (a Ralph Lauren Fabric Mart find for $1.99/yd in 2019!). I LOVE THESE KINDS OF PROJECTS!

From my previous version:

• Size 16 (44.5" finished bust; I am around 39.5")
• Adjustments; sewed 1/2" seams on front princess and side seams
• 100% wool coating in magenta from Hancock Fabrics
• 100% polyester pongee lining fabric in baby pink from FabricMart
• Bound buttonholes tutorials by Iconic Patterns and Julia Bobbin.
• Bagging the lining tutorial by Grainline Studios
• (Need: small FBA, shift bust point down 1", lengthen sleeve 1/2", raise pockets 3/4-1", back facing)

This time;

• size 16
• I initially used smaller seam allowance and had to resew them all to 5/8"
• 100% wool coating from stash
• 100% rayon lining in champagne tan from Fabric Mart
• Regular buttonholes with buttons from Fabric Mart
• Bagged the lining using Cecelia Podolak's 'Easy Guide to Sewing Jackets' book
• I did not need an FBA, I did shift the bust point down 1", I did not lengthen the sleeve and should have, I did not raise the pockets and should have!, I did add a back facing. And, I lowered the back tab on this version.

In preparing to sew this jacket, I read my own review and a bunch of other reviews. SO many people complained about pattern errors and I was all, "I don't remember having any issues last time..."

Ha! Well, inexperienced sewer me probably didn't have any issues. This pattern has A LOT of errors. Notches that didn't line up, an error in drafting the straight collar (which I didn't catch until it was assembled), the lack of a back facing is insane, I think there were more. Grr. 

By March 7th, I had the pockets inserted and princess seams sewn, realizing I should have moved the pockets up. I only had 7 of these buttons and there were supposed to be 5 on the front and 2 on the collar, so I decided I didn't have enough for the sleeve bands. With the collar error, I could have done the button bands. I think the sleeves look better with them!!!

By March 12th, I had the shell constructed and ruh-roh, this is too big. I took all the seams from 1/2" to 5/8". And, WHY is the back band so high?! I think it's a notch error. 

March 22nd, I realize the collar is wrong. I'm super annoyed but not enough to recut the thing (do I even have enough fabric to do so?!).

I lazily drafted a facing and topstitched it down instead of doing it the "right way" because it's a raglan. It would have crossed part of the front sleeve, part of the back sleeve, and the back. 

It must have bothered me more than I realized because it was April 17th before I returned to working on the jacket. But, it's ready for buttonholes!

The buttonholes needed are too big. Sigh. I can do it. I can do manual buttonholes. I watched a Threads video, mimicked the settings used, and, success! 

April 20th, my finished coat, ready for wear (I am contemplating topstitching the collar). And oops, I moved that back band down a little bit TOO far :)

I think I wore it 3 times before the weather changed. Ah well, there's always next year! 

Some nightgowns (Burda 5/2016 & 1/2016)

We've all read it (or said it!): Sewing is therapy. 

I needed to sew. I also knew my focus was nil. I'd been working on the Lisette vest and trouser pattern from Butterick, but no way could I go back to that. I was about to have houseguests for 2-3 weeks and decided I'd make some nightgowns since I'd be required to actually sleep in clothing (TMI LOL!). 

Burda 5/2016:

Way back in 2016, I used this dress pattern from spring issue of Burda, to make a nightgown (https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/125146). My fabric was a very lightweight cotton or linen knit and it's still my favorite nightgown! The pattern is 5/2016 #113 (there's a top version as well). It's an A-line shape with an inverted front pleat and braided straps. 

I was using a lightweight french terry and thought the three layers of fabric might be too heavy, so I instead used some plain white rayon knit to make binding. I cut a size 40 neckline and armhole and graded out to a 42 for the rest. I did not add hem allowance (both adjustments are standard for me with Burda mag). I did not make any adjustments to the pattern to account for binding instead of hemming. 

I cut the binding at 1 7/8" and attached with a 3/8" seam allowance on the sewing machine. I topstitched with the coverstitch. Sewed the side seams, hemmed it, DONE! 

It's my second favorite night gown :)

Then, I made another one! But this fabric is a rayon blend, super drapey, and it is NOT my favorite.

The only difference from the yellow one is that I cut three narrow strips and braided them to make the straps. I cut it on the cross grain and it is still extremely limp and stretchy. The easiest adjustment I can think to make is to just cut off the straps and maybe use a plain black knit sewn into tube (like the yellow one). 

Burda 1/2016 #105:

A dear friend sent me a giftcard to Fabric Mart and I bought a piece of lightweight french terry for another gown! Why did I decide to switch it up? Because we just like to be difficult, don't we? 

This tank top pattern from Burda gave the same vibe but with more stable straps/shoulders. I cut a size 40/42 as outlined above and added no hem allowance. But, I made the mistake of largely just tracing down from the waist to lengthen it. Err. That's not going to work! It's snug through the hips :( And while it otherwise is very comfy (it's not uncomfortable to sleep in), I just don't wear it nearly as much as the two favorites from the 5/2016 pattern. 

The inset is cool and presents an opportunity to add interest. I used a lighter part of the tie-dye fabric here, did a face binding (at least that's what I think it's called! I stitched a strip of fabric to the front, turned it to the inside, and coverstitched in place), and did a rolled edge on the inset with my serger. I used a matching thread and edge stitched the inset in place. It's so cute!! 

You see how it's snug on Lily's hips? Sigh!!!! 

Yet Another IKEA Cutting Table!

But...but...but it just WORKS! :)

My 6-foot tall son lying on the table

The moment I had an accepted offer on my house, I started sketching out plans to build the cutting table of my dreams. I knew I was going to be making space for woodworking at the house and was R E A D Y. 

Planning:

I was pretty particular about the style of table (okay, fine, I'm pretty particular about almost everything), and some of the more popular folks' versions weren't my style. Last June, I posted to IG discussing my table plans, with a rough sketch of what I had in mind. From that post:

📌 I was really excited to build a table from scratch. But woodworking is harder than it looks (I know there are some plans using 2x4s and corner braces but that’s not what I want please don’t suggest that tutorial 🤣)

📌 And I didn’t really want a Kallax base either…but then it dawned on me that most of them felt “off” but that’s because a lot of people don’t have any overage/extension of the tabletop off the base, or lacked clearance underneath.

📌 My folding table from JoAnn died with moving things out of the room for the floors. It just tipped over. Lol! It’s okay but not solid, the bottom leg is no longer straight. But, I got that table in summer 2014!!!! 10 years?! I got my money’s worth! So I need a table like…NOW.

📌 IKEA has gotten so expensive. The 2x4 Kallax is now $79 and the 2x2 is $45. Plywood and lumber costs are up too. (Another consideration with building as I’d want to use cabinet grade plywood and a sheet is EXPENSIVE).

📌 So I’m going to use two Kallax 2x4 units on a plywood base. This gives me a surface of 30 1/8” x 57 5/8”. I’ll top it with a sheet of melamine (once everything else in the room is in place, I’ll tape off a 42x72 area and a 45x76 area. If I can comfortably adapt the larger size, I will). I am 5’5” (and a half!) but have a short torso and longer legs (respectively). 36” is minimum cutting table height for me. So I hope to find 5” casters. The other option is a plywood sheet between the Kallax and the melamine for an additional 3/4” and then use 4” casters. I’ll let costs drive that decision.

📌 The left shading indicates plywood on the side to hang a pegboard and roll holders for my tracing paper (as an avid Burda mag sewer, this is a must-have).

📌 I don’t really *need* the additional storage a Kallax provides (my basement is 14’x28’!!) but will move some things to the cutting table to store, like interfacings or tools that are primarily used at the cutting table.

I had this long, ongoing discussion with a sewing friend where we were plotting out our tables. We essentially wanted the same thing and were constantly discussing components, pricing, etc. :) The more I researched, the more I realized it was going to cost a lot more than I thought. Plywood is expensive. Good casters are expensive (and you need so many to properly support the thing!). It was going to cost quite a bit to make this happen. 

Then one day I had a lightbulb moment. The 4x2 Kallax has a base/stand available. Wanna guess how tall those legs are? Go head...guess.

...

...

FIVE INCHES. Woohoo!

And, I have been so accustomed to the idea of having the table on casters, that I hadn't considered building one without them. My basement is 14ft x 28ft. In this space, I wouldn't be moving it (and in fact, hadn't moved the other table that WAS on casters a single time in the prior 18 months). Having my table on wheels was not a necessity and that made the Kallax make even more sense.

My plan was to use two of the 4x2 Kallax with base ($109 each) and a sheet of melamine ($60). But then, my world imploded and nothing else mattered so yeah...I got all the things. 

Structure:

Important to note: My minimum required height was 36". The finished height of the Kallax in this orientation is 30 1/8". The finished height with the base and legs is 37". Before I got the sheet of melamine, I kept saying, "wow! this is perfect!". The only reason this wouldn't work as-is is that the overall size of the cutting surface was only 30 1/8" x 57 5/8" -- Not a giant cutting table of awesomeness. 3/4" sheet goods have a nominal width of around 0.7". So now my table is about 37 3/4" which is *just* a bit tall. Keep this in mind if you are shorter. 

Standard measurements for sheet goods is 4x8 feet. Many stores say they'll provide one cut for free. I'd measured out floor space as mentioned and decided that 48" wide would be overkill, but I'd do it if I had to. I have the tools at home to cut melamine but 1) it was the middle of winter and 2) cutting melamine is a bit more of a skill than wood. I really waffled on the finished width and ultimately decided to leave it long enough that I could choose to add a 2x2 Kallax to the end later if needed. I bought my melamine from a lumber yard (it was the same price everywhere-Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, and the lumber yard), but I figured the cutting would be better and more precise there. The additional cut was only $10, so worthwhile to do. I decided on a finished top size of 42" wide and 76" long. Yall, it's glorious!!!

My top is not attached to the Kallax. A full sheet of melamine weighs about 90lbs. Since mine is a little under 3/4 the size of a full sheet, I estimate it weighs 60-65lbs. I purchased that tacky, rubbery shelf liner from the Dollar Tree and my top does.not.move. Lastly, I decided not attach the the two Kallax's to each other at all (some people use mending plates or straight brackets to connect them). Leaving them separate means it's easily disassembled, but it does not impact the stability. 

with shelf liner

Accessories:

I knew that I wanted a pegboard for all of my tools, and I also wanted a paper roll mounted to the side (I sew a lot of Burda magazine patterns!). I was going to "wait and see" on the Kallax accessories (link to IKEA accessories, not monetized), but as mentioned, went whole hog. 

Now, if you're keeping track, I have about 12" of overhang width-wise and a little under 18" length-wise. It took a couple tries to get the overhang on the working side right. Even though I have had a free-standing table for a while, I primarily work on one long-side of the table, accessing the surface from other sides as needed. 

On "my" side, I have 4" of overhang. I have the wave doors on the two left cubes (top and bottom). The two upper center cubes I have the divider that splits into two, and on the lower two cubes, I have Drona boxes. On the right side, I have the wave drawers. 

On the back side, there is 8" of overhang and I have four Drona boxes in all of the lower cubes. 

On the side open to the room, I have two Skadis peg boards. Initially, I purchased the large 30x22" Skadis. It would span the width of the two Kallax shelves and extend about 2/3 of the way down the side. While you can screw into the upper parts of the Kallax (pretty much in the same area where the attachment screws are), I really didn't want to as they can be reused individually at any point currently. So I exchanged that for two smaller versions, each 14x22", attached with 20lb 3M Command Strips. Each of the Skadis boards weighs less than 3lbs and I figured at most, there'd be another 3-5lbs loaded on them. So far, so good. They feel very secure and are holding up well.

For the pegboards, I felt like I bought nearly one of everything, lol! The components are so affordable, and there are so many options available, you can find exactly what you need to organize your things. The rest of my containers inside of drawers and doors are from Dollar Tree - my store has such an amazing selection!

This photo shows the command strip attachment, and how I use my little tray for quick access items.

Assembly:

I find IKEA items the absolute easiest to assemble of any ready-to-assemble furniture. It is almost always smooth sailing and things go together quickly. I assembled the frames and Kallax's in one evening. I tackled the doors and drawers the next day. It is CRUCIAL when assembling the doors that you mark everything as instructed. Ensure that you can open and close the door with the hinges in position before screwing everything in place. After the first one, the other one was a piece of cake. 

My kid's dad was in town and while my son and I could have managed the melamine sheet, I took advantage of having the two of them here and rented a truck from Home Depot for $19 (mileage is free up to a certain amount and the distance from HD to the lumber yard to my house and back to HD is less than 15 miles, so whatever it was worked fine!). Below, I have melamine recorded as $51. It was $71with the additional cut fee and tax, but my son, intent on contributing something, put $20 toward my melamine. He's adorable :)

Once the table top was positioned, and after he continued to exclaim that there was NO WAY I needed a table this big, I applied the edge banding to the melamine with my iron and parchment paper to keep the iron free of adhesive. Recommendation: Apply it flush at the top and trim the bottom. I trimmed the top and had to use a putty stick to fill in the parts that went wonky. The melamine banding and putty stick came from Lowe's. 

The edge banding makes a HUGE difference!

Cost:

Organization:

I have only wished I had a larger cutting mat once or twice. Initially, I was very fixated on the whole surface being covered. I don't think that's necessary. The Olfa mat comes in a larger size, but it is clipped together, which doesn't sound like a good option for a garment sewer. My current mat is 2 x 3 ft. I am leaning toward buying an 18x24 mat to extend my cutting surface when needed and once my current large mat wears out, springing for a custom 3x4 ft mat. 

On the working side, I have pens and pencils, marking tools, seam gauges, tracing paper, transfer paper and wheels, Wonderclips, extra pins, etc. One of the two Drona bins holds all of my interfacing, the other is empty for now. 

On the other side, the lower Drona bins hold: (1) lining fabrics (2) large scraps (3) muslin (4) empty for now

The pegboard holds all of my scissors, rotary cutters, and rulers. I added a quilting ruler holder to the tabletop as well.

While I had no intention on spending $500 on a cutting table, it is everything I could have wanted. It has been so nice to have ample surface to cut my projects (I'm working on a coat now!). I have all the storage that I need (and more!) and have no concerns over the long-term stability of the table. The only concession I made was not having my tracing paper mounted.

the stools were scored on Marketplace

I'm trying to come back!

I was feeling really good about my return to blogging and then tragedy struck my family. It didn't take me long to turn to a familiar comfort, sewing, knitting, and crafting. 

I have a new sewing room to share since moving into my house a couple years ago. This includes a new cutting table made from IKEA components plus a melamine top. 

I then NEEDED to make something and made three new nightgowns. I then made a skirt, switched to machine knitting and knit a bunch of stuff (a poncho for my mom, socks for my son, a hat for my dad, sweaters for the grandkids, a blanket and hat for a new nephew, a sweater for me), made another skirt. 

Sometime in between the knitting, I painted my living room and hallway. After that, I switched to a complete OBSESSION over choosing a new sofa. I spent HOURS visiting local stores! HOURS! 

I went on to make a t-shirt and a turtleneck, and then after realizing my wool coat is WAY too big, cut out a new coat project that I'm working on. 

That's been the last 3 months of my life. Plus work and normal house and life stuff.  

I am over social media at the moment. I was already trending this way and never even had time to react to the election or post-election fall out as I've been in this...state. 

So, as we do, I am keeping my focus on the things that bring me a bit of joy. In my downtime (har, har) I plan to do some write-ups and schedule them. 

I'm really excited to share info on my cutting table, soon. 

mid paint job, testing my perfectly matched piece of art.