Finished: Vogue 1595

As per usual :) I was drawn to this Badgley Mischka RIGHT AWAY. I love the Dolman sleeve, slightly pegged skirt and wide neckline. 

 

 I snatched it up in a BMV sale and when I went to cut it out, realized I had the size 6-14 envelope.

Ruh-Roh.

I hemmed and hawed over grading it up or just buying another copy. I decided that I am almost 6 years into my sewing journey and DARN IT! I can learn to grade up a pattern!!!!

So I did a bunch of research and finally went for it. Now, my "normal" Big4 sizing is 14 neckline/shoulder with a 1" FBA which gives me the "size 16 waist" that I need and I usually cut an 18 for my hips. With skirts I've pretty consistently used a 16 front and 18 back. So I did an FBA, slightly graded the skirt a bit more (I gained room with the adjustment as I went right to the hem) and I graded up the back skirt and the waist on the upper back.

I was so proud! 

Once I got the front and back assembled I basted the side seams. I didn't like it. I was so disappointed. And then it dawned on me...it was too big. Seriously. Did it not occur to me that the fact that almost everything I pulled out of my storage bins is too big and therefore I need to adjust!?! It did not!!!! I'm not sure how much I removed because it was adjust, try on...adjust, try on....

Doh.

  

My hem is topstitched because this sweater knit hides it.  Speaking of...I got this from Fabric Mart right after the pattern was released and ordered black tricot to go with as lining.

I hate lining knit dresses. I mean, I like when they're lined but *I* don't like fussing around with tricot. If you were following along on IG (or read my last post), then you know that I sewed the sleeve to the waist of the skirt on the lining. SO annoying but I unpicked it and then...I did it again. But only on one side. I'm pretty sure I almost tossed this dress in the corner at that point.

The zipper is necessary because as you can see, it's pretty fitted. I tacked the lining at the shoulder seams because it kept rolling out and that did the trick. I don't know why I followed the instructions on attaching the lining at the cuff. They have you sew the cuff to the fashion fabric then hand sew the lining to the cuff. I totally would just serge the band to the dress/lining at the same time.

I DID hand sew the lining and dress together at the slit.

 

Because I am me, I bought just enough fabric. Did I think about pattern matching? nope. 

But I did okay without trying to match! (but, of course...because when you TRY, something funky happens! LOL!)

It's such a toasty dress and I'm excited to have it for winter even if it made me mad/sad a whole bunch of times.

It is that time again. Sigh. I will either have crappy indoor pictures or...sort of crappy indoor pictures. And this place somehow manages to get less light than the last place!

Burda 11/2018 and Randomness

I don't like to get too far behind on blogging items. I routinely use my finished projects to make decisions on other projects. e.g., I may see where a particular dress/skirt hit me to decide on length before cutting. Or where a neckline fell, etc. When I get too far behind, it becomes difficult to remember details! So all I have is a mirror selfie. #sorrynotsorry

For the first time in forever, I haven't been too moved by the fall Burda mags. They've been fine but not great, IMO. When I saw this top though, I decided I HAD TO HAVE IT! It's a cute fitted top and I have always loved boatneck (bateau) tops on me! It took forever for my Burda to come this month and when it did, I was ready! :)

I cut a size 40 neckline and 42 for the rest and couldn't work out how to do the FBA -- well, what to do with the dart on the other side. Honestly, I could have left it because this fabric doesn't show the diagonal seamline at all and a dart would've been hidden. 

But if you didn't want a dart then what? Well, perusing the Russian Burda site (translated!), someone said something about an adjustment in the seam line. Ah-ha! On the right side the dart would be rotated into the gathers and on the left you could leave the dart or rotate it into that seam line! 

So I will do a small FBA next time. This time I did a small, cheater FBA. I sewed the diagonal seam at 5/8" at either end and a scant 3/8" through the center. I sewed the side seams at 3/8" through the bust -- but not the underarm or the waist. This meant to be fitted and too loose = saggy gathers.

  

Per my usual, I did not add hem allowance. I did add hem allowance to the sleeves and I like where they hit. I ~love~ the neckline.

 

I traced, cut and sewed this top in an evening. I was TOO excited! I was ready to make one in olive but then decided to stay on track and sew my black V1595 dress next. 

 

The pattern recommends ponte or similar - use ponte. I used a sweater knit with a loose-ish weave and wahhhhhhhh. I had to take it in so much. I was really on the fence before realizing the issue was that it was just too big on me. And finally got back around to it Monday to work on the lining.

Got the pieces all cut out (in a tricot), sewed darts and what not...and then:

Sighhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

Who wants to unpick black stitches from black tricot?!?! THEN, I woke up Tuesday with a migraine (unrelated to the dress, lol!). I ate stupid, stupid, MSG-laden Doritos on Monday with dinner (maybe it WAS the dress' fault?!). The migraine finally broke Wednesday night. Blergh.

In other news...

I fully intended to do BPSewvember! I almost always do! But I fell behind a couple of days, caught up, then fell behind again and said, forget it. Wah.

One thing that came up on others' posts (especially the 'philosophy' prompt), was pertaining to sustainability in sewing. And I think to myself, hey, GO FOR IT! But there also seems to be A LOT of judgment around it. :(

 

It seems difficult for people to comprehend that different people lead different lifestyles and therefore have different clothing needs. Be that garment types (e.g., I don't need party dresses and someone else will not need the half-dozen lined straight skirts I have in my wardrobe) or wardrobe size. 

(I find the, "Where does she even wear all these clothes to?" type comments the most bewildering.)

And perhaps I'm easily annoyed (entirely possible...FINE, I'm easily annoyed!!), but I nearly roll my eyes out the socket when people talk about how "we're ALL influenced by social media!" Uhmm, speak for yourself? I can say, admire someone's Blackwood cardigan while knowing I will never buy that pattern because I'd never buy or wear a cardigan with that silhouette. I totally like the pattern and most of the finished versions!! But seeing it a bunch doesn't make me feel like I need to make it. I was seriously ready to uninstall IG after seeing 87,000 versions of M7833! :-p

So what about you? Is sustainability a focus with your sewing? If so, what does that mean to you?

Is your sewing heavily influenced by social media?

Do you think I'm just a cranky old lady? :-p

October Wrap-Up and November Plans

Honestly.

I don't want to be that person who focuses on the passage of time but goodness! This year is flying by!

Fall sewing is well underway all around the blogosphere - yay! Those in warm weather climates hold out for as long as they can it seems but then fall (my favorite season!) goodies start popping up and it makes me happy! :-D

This month, the mojo was on pause but I rallied in the end! In the last half of October I sewed 5 yards:

•  Burda 8/2017 jacket - 2.25 yards
• navy wool melton with navy acetate lining
• Buttons (glorious, beautiful buttons!)  

• Style Arc Mindi skirt - 1.25 yards
• black stretch cotton twill
• zippers 

• Burda 11/2018 top - 1.5 yards
• black/grey burnout jersey

Favorite: The jacket is exactly as I imagined and I love it! There are parts of the sewing I suppose I could gripe about but...I won't!

"Fail": Not quite but...the Mindi skirt has me a bit on the fence. It's SUPER boxy and the back feels almost A-line while the front is straight. I like it just fine but it isn't what I pictured.

Accomplishments: Nothing really sticks out. Outerwear is always a BIG project but a little bit at a time and then, it's done! Otherwise, I traced, adjusted and sewed my Burda top in one evening and wore it to work the next day! That's always fun :)

Also, I didn't buy any fabric in October!  I was going to pat myself on the back for not having purchased fabric the last 2 months but that isn't entirely true...our local group visited Kokoon Fashion and bought some of the designer's fabric and that was mid September.

November Plans

I feel *really* good about my fall/early winter plan. (by mid January we're going to be in Michelin-Man type layers) I also feel really good that I'll be able to go the rest of the year without buying fabric because I'm so excited about my current plans. We'll see!

 

Two of these have now been sewn. Next up is the Vogue dress and mock t-neck top (above the Mindi skirt). And then I'm going to make an olive version of the Burda top.

 

Love this top!

 

 

A little further along than this on the skirt - it just needs topstitching on the waistband.

I'll probably save the 'cozier' items - the Simplicity version of the Toaster and the Burda cardigan lower right - for when the mercury drops a bit more. 

I plan on saving the Birkin flares and Burda blazer (middle pic of the toppers) for my long December break. Those projects are perfect for completing by stealing bits of time.

Are you well into your fall sewing plan? Inspired by any of the recent pattern releases?

Sewing Outerwear! Burda 8/2017 Jacket

This post is kind of epic...lots of photos!

Blahhhhh. Not the coat. Me. As mentioned in my prior post, I decided on a slow sewing project for a couple of reasons. And I know that 15 days for a piece of outerwear isn't technically a long time...it felt like forever! LOL! But also felt very low-pressure, which was needed.

I purchased this fabric - wool melton - from Fabric Mart last November in the buy the piece section. I spent $21 for 2.25 yards. When I went to NYC, I saw these buttons at  M&J Trimming and decided they were IT! I spent $3.98 per button and bought 7 (1 extra to have on hand) so they cost more than the main fabric! I got my lining from Metro Textiles.

I traced this pattern in a size 42 and did a 1" FBA and ended up lowering the dior dart too much. Sometimes I notice it and it annoys me...sometimes I don't. I'm sure in the long run I won't care. On Burda tops, I normally trace a size 40 shoulder but stayed with the 42 here because, outerwear. I think it fits fine.

The sleeve measured *ok* but then, I have to always consider the intended design ease - I want to keep with the spirit of the pattern. And since I normally need to add to the bicep I decided to muslin the sleeve to decide on the adjustment.

It was okay -- not tight but I didn't want to struggle when wearing a long sleeves or a sweater underneath. I added 1" which ended up being too much. I took 1/2" out (total) from the back seam. You'll also notice that my sleeve dart is super pointy on the muslin. I ended up having to baste the dart until I got it smooth and then I stitched it and removed the basting stitches.

LOVE the back fit!!!

I love the collar and know why they had you interface the upper and under...but this melton is THICK. I should have used a lighter interfacing or only interfaced one side. The under-collar uses the same piece when really, it should be slightly smaller.

Speaking of the collar...the instructions have you attach a collar stand to each collar piece and then sew those together. The stand almost looked like it didn't fit the collar (there's this flat part on the collar) but you just have to mind your markings. On the stand, I marked in the seam allowance and lined it up with the collar...

And ta-da! Unpicking those stitches was NOT fun though.

I adore the in-seam buttonhole and decided to go with bound buttonholes for the other two. For the windows in the facing, I used the 'interfacing method' where you use interfacing instead of organza and when you turn it to the inside you can fuse it in place. I still stitched around it by machine because I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Makes me happy!!

The shoulder seam on the jacket is forward but I'm not sure why. The facing and lining has the shoulder seam in the normal position. Just a design choice??

The sleeves are new to me...some kind of a raglan / set-in hybrid?? It's 2-piece but you have the dart and it didn't need easing. Weird!

I used a raglan shoulder pad from Wawak

This is the only time I'll ever button that upper button! LOL!!! 

The pockets aren't very usable for me :-/  One, I put them too close to the flaps and two, they sit high up on the body. They can't really be lowered though...if I were making this again for some reason I'd just add welt pockets.

The entire time I was sewing the pocket flaps, I knew that the double layer of melton was too much. After getting them done, I knew there was no way they would attach neatly. So I redid the flaps with lining on the interior. I skipped the topstitching in most places on this jacket. I hand stitched the pockets to the jacket.

Kudos to Burda for their wonderful back lining piece. No finagling to ensure you have ease in back!

When I was ready to do the lining, I pinned the vertical seams of the lining and jacket together and my coat was a bit bigger than my lining. Wahhh! I can only assume that I stretched the wool out a bit during sewing/trying on. I was able to shrink it back with steam for the most part but the front of the lining just was NOT meeting the facing at the bottom. And I had already pinked my lining seams so couldn't let them out. I left it for a couple days and said, screw it. I likely won't ever even notice it.

I cut gussets and finished the area. Shrug.

Then I had it repinned, had sewed the sleeve lining to the sleeves already and was ready to sew the hem. OMG...I forgot the shoulder pads! So I had to go in there and insert them. I sat down to tack the pads in and saw this:

SERIOUSLY?!!?

I unpicked the area, resewed it and FINALLY hemmed it. I placed my inseam button and then placed the others by measuring. It was very important that they line up. When I went to button it I realized I didn't leave enough slack on the functioning buttons so I'll need to re-sew them. Wahhhh! :)

But I finished it and I love it!

I've wanted to take photos at this wall since forever. It's the side of the building of the Ace Hardware. They also had a fall display out and a sign welcoming people to take photos!

This coat has been on my to-do list for awhile and I am SO glad I finally got to it! If you're interested in this one, it's the featured pattern and has full instructions and pics.

I have the Style Arc Mindi pattern cut out so that's up next.

I sewed! I sewed!!!

O. M. G.! lol!!

Life is hectic, work is busy, I am tired, Mojo - gone. There's another piece though to my missing mojo! I mentioned in my September wrap-up that I've lost about 15lbs resulting in a lot of things no longer fitting. When I went to put away my summer clothes I separated the things that didn't fit anymore or that I was just tired of or whatever. The things that needed purging got purged! 

I pulled out fall/winter and ended up in a long try-on session as a lot of those things no longer fit either. And I think that contributed to killing my mojo. Another 15lbs and I'll likely be down another size and don't want to invest a lot into things that may not fit sooner rather than later. So I decided to sew a coat! LOL!

I've wanted this jacket from the 8/2017 Burda mag since forever. It was supposed to be one of my projects this spring but it got back-burnered.

Friday, I got home and was going to SEW. I was ready. I went and got the mag, because I knew I'd started tracing it, and could not find the tracings. I looked in a couple of spots where it could have possibly been misplaced and nothing. I was so dejected! I did not want to start over. After whining about it for awhile, I decided to get to work. 

And then I opened the pattern sheets and ta-da! My tracings were neatly folded inside the sheets. WHEW.

 

I'd traced a BUNCH and added seam allowances!

I used the dryer method to treat my fabric, which I got in a By the Piece deal at Fabric Mart. $21 for 2.5 yards of 100% wool melton!! The buttons I bought for it cost more than that!

Oh wait, after I found the pattern pieces, I couldn't find my fabric! LOL!!! And the fabric and lining had gotten separated. Sheesh!!!!

I opted to do the small parts first and started on the pockets.

 

Once I got to this point though, I realized there was no way I'd be able to cleanly stitch that flat that's doubled wool. I ended up recutting the flaps with lining vs double fabric. I also decided not to do the topstitching.

 

And I stitched those pockets by hand! I will topstitch the flap down.

(this was before steaming to set the hand stitches) 

I got the back completely assembled, the fronts adjusted (I moved my dior dart when doing an FBA and don't think I should have...it doesn't look bad but it's just a tad lower than would be most aesthetically pleasing), and the fronts assembled. I also sewed the collar unit and it's ready to attach.

  

I'm so excited about this!

On Sunday, I woke up to this:

And aside from going out for breakfast and washing a load of clothes, I did almost next to nothing yesterday. Oops! LOL! 

I still need to adjust the sleeves -- full bicep adjustment and lengthen them (they're 7/8 length as designed). I should be able to get the shell completed this week and hopefully the lining over the weekend!

It's starting to cool down quite a bit but, if you live in a cold climate, you have that initial shock when the temps drop...then you adjust. 35 isn't "cold" because we've got another 30-50 degrees to drop in "real" winter! 

So that and the fact that we have some more 40-50 degree days coming and I should get a good amount of usage this fall still...and at the start of spring ("spring") :)

Until later!

Update: WIP Pic! Still so much to do...and I was careful (I thought) and still got shine marks. I Googled suggestions on removal and will try it on a scrap. Fingers crossed. I don't know that I care though because I am loving it! :-D