Thursday, December 7, 2017

Burda 3/2013 #140

I love these pants. I know I say I love a lot of things but I really, really, really love these pants. Okay I really, really love them. Less one "really" because the fabric is decent but I can only imagine if I had used something a little nicer. Ahhhh. So these are already on the 'must make again' list.

I mentioned seeing a pair of pants that I couldn't get out of my mind. My kids' cousin's mom (haha) had them on and I was so smitten. She bought them so long ago she said and can't remember where she got them. I went straight to Burda because, Burda. This pattern isn't *exactly* right -- these cut back in after the hip whereas the inspiration pant was a true trouser fit. It hit the hip and went straight to the floor. But I am so happy with the fit on these that that's okay.




My fabric is an RPL (rayon-poly-lycra) suiting from Fabric Mart in a plum color. I also had a cut of plum crepe and THAT fabric was the color I thought THIS fabric was. This is a bit more red than the other and I was very dubious when I first pulled the fabric out. But thankfully, I went for it anyway!

I usually use a size 44 for Burda pants but went for a 46 as I'm currently fitting in the middle of the two. I apparently have some extra padding! I measured everything and decided I didn't need to add to the back rise at all. I traced the front crotch curve at the size 44 mark and removed 3/4" via a wedge. Where I would normally add back to the side seam what I lost from this adjustment, this time I did not. I trued the CF and proceeded.

I only had 2.5 yards of fabric and thought I'd have issues fitting the pattern pieces (they say 2 yards and that is accurate if your fabric is closer to 60" wide). I decided to use 5/8" side seams and 3/8" everywhere else.

Forgot about the CB zipper. I had a 3/8" seam allowance back there and had to make it work. So my zipper installation isn't perfect, I have some of the tape peeking through. Womp womp.



I took a few pictures of the process of sewing the curved waistband. First, I chalked the seam line around the curve and sewed that before sewing the rest. I used a very small stitch length so I could navigate the curve easily. After sewing, I use my seam gauge to check the that the seam allowance is correct and then sew the rest of the seam. Then, I notch the curve...

And yes, I did have to redo a section on the other half!

and then trim it down.



After turning it out, I use my hemostat in the closed position to smooth out the curve, and then press!

ta-da!


I used my new favorite, the FM interfacing. The pattern called for interfacing waistband and facing so I went with the lightest weight option.

I was SO CONFUSED on the waistband instructions!!! I'd brought the magazine with me to our MinneSEWta meet up and intended to ask a fellow Burda user what she thought...but totally forgot. I finally decided to tackle it and just slowly went through it sentence by sentence. I didn't get as clean a finish inside as I'd like, but I get what they were instructing now.

The front waistband overlaps. They have you sew waistband and facing together first and then attach. But you have to attach the outside of the waistband, that facing, and the outside layer of the inner waistband while leaving the facing of the inner waistband free. It was very weird because once you're outside of that few inches on either side of center front, it's a "normal" waistband application. It took some finagling and I'm not even sure it's worth it! LOL! I slip stitched the upper curve but now I'm torn if I should remove the stitching or if I should slipstitch the entire thing down. If I made them again I'd just use a normal waistband.




I wasn't sold on the butt zipper but I'll take that over a side invisible zipper any day. I hate invisible side zippers.

I basted the side seams and tried them on and YAYYYYYY! I got the seams sewn and got everything pressed and did a blind hem by machine, and attached the facing to the zipper tape by hand.

And then proceeded to try them on a ton of times while bemoaning my inability to get photos. I finished these on SUNDAY!! The only reason I was able to get photos today is because I'm working from home. Because my car is in the shop. Because apparently Ford SUCKS so my transmission control module and clutch died. Even though I tried to get the KNOWN issue repaired several times. And they kept telling me it wasn't bad enough for Ford to repair. Even though there was a class action suit over the issue (which has been settled and is pending final appeals, etc).  So yeah, that's my day! AND THEN I was unable to find my remote. So I had to use the timer. Snap. Walk back. Snap. Walk back. WAHHHH! :)

I love it with the black and white sweater but not with these shoes. So I changed shoes and tried another top :)

my top is RTW...


I compared this crotch curve to my TNT V9032 and it was a very close match!! Also, Burda didn't suggest it (and they normally do...maybe only for fitted pants?), but I stretched the back inseam a bit. It really makes a difference.

Lastly, I added and used a 1 1/4" hem allowance as I knew I'd wear these with heels.

41 comments:

  1. The fit you achieved is amazing! Terrific job explaining how you did it, too. Off now to dig up the pattern from my treasure trove of old Burda WOF magazines.

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  2. A few things...

    First, these pants and fit are fire! I have started a sew-only-Burda thing so that I can learn my size. I have to try some Burda pants now!

    Second, I still didn't understand the waistband instructions. =) I do find that typing out Burda's instructions line by line helps to decipher the madness. It's an extra step, but worth it for patterns where the techniques are new to me.

    Third, BOO Ford! I hope the mechanics can fix your car. Ford has *always* (like since the Tempo) had some crazy transmission issues. I have a Mazda with Ford manual transmission and I know I am on bought time with this car. =(

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    1. Uh...one more thing.

      You always do impeccable work. Despite the minefield that is Burda instructions, the waistband looks really good. =)

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    2. Aww thank you! :-D

      After I typed the instructions and reread them twice, *I* didn't fully understand them either! Lmao! I tried though!
      Definitely give ole Burda a try. I think they get that most woman have hips and a butt and what not.

      My last Taurus hung in there a long while but in the end, the trans was the reason I had to get rid of it. The Focus has so many positives (like the 35-50 mpg depending on conditions! and the $20-25 fill ups that then last ~10 days because of the mileage)...but I am so disappointed with the handling of this issue. It's been ongoing in these model years since they came out and they did what mega corps do I suppose and tried their best not to fix it.

      And the dealership. NO WAY they were not aware of all the reported issues when they sold me the car.

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  3. I love these pants on you! And yes, you did an AMAZING job with the instructions. I am definitely going to sew more Burda patterns next year, but start on the simpler side. I love the plum color on you, and think the styling is so pretty and fresh.

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    1. Thank you! Oh yes, I would definitely start with garment types that you know how to sew already so you don't NEED their instructions. But still read them so you get a feel for how they do things. And in time you'll progress. It took me awhile to progress to things with really interesting details because I was worried about understanding it.

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  4. Those are fantastic and I can see why they are on your make again list, the fit is perfect (I still think Burda is the best for pants). I also really love the colour - a bit different for pants, but still really versatile.

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    1. Thank you!! I have a pair of pants this color and really like them except J. Crew's quality leaves much to be desired. So I can retire those! I always want to wear them and then get sad when I put them on. No more!

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  5. These are stunning! Love everything about them. This should definitely go on a TNT/remake list.

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    1. Thanks T!! I know you know how fantastic Burda can be!

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  6. Those are some great pants and they really fit your backside! I understand your love of Burda patterns because you get such a great fit with them. Can't wait to see the next pair!

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    1. Thanks Carolyn! These are definitely being added to the TNT list. I may even try the cool curved pockets next time.

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  7. These look great! I guess I need to get to figuring out my crotch curve so I can make pants without elastic SMDH. I feel overwhelmed with Burda, but I really like the design lines. Another great make! I'll go check out your TNT review to give me some guidance on how to make adjustments.

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    1. Burda can be intimidating, that's for sure. But once you get the hang of it, it's worth it!

      Thanks LaQuana!

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  8. I have to give it to you: those are pants worth loving. You look great in them. Smooth and sleek and well proportioned. Good job!

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  9. I stated with Burda pattern when I was a teenager I the 80's, tried a few since I got back into sewing the last 4 years, but I haven't tried any of the pants- you have inspired me! I am really curious - you turned the waistband with a hemostat? What is that?

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    1. Oh haha! It's a type of forceps. They are small and SUPER handy in my sewing!!!

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  10. The fit is great, the color is fabulous -- good job!

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  11. Your pants look fabulous. That color is yummy.

    FYI, Toyota tells me that my car is out of warranty (in months coverage), but then offers to do the repair for free b/c my car is so low mileage. After the 2nd time they did that, we became a 2-Toyota family. ;-)

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    1. Thanks!!

      I've actually stopped going to the dealership where I purchased the car because they suck. The only way I'd buy another Ford right now is they're offering a huge rebate to class action members. So over it! I may get a Rav4. I've always liked those...but my daughter has an 2004 Honda Accord with 220k miles on it that STILL rides really nicely. Torn! :)

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  12. They look great on you. Thanks so much for sharing!

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  13. You did an awesome job on these pants. They fit beautifully, and speaking as someone who began sewing many, many years ago so she could get pants that actually fit, I fully appreciate your reference to adjusting the back inseam. Such details make the difference between something that is flattering and wearable, and a garment that only looks good. Your pants are the best of both worlds!

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    1. Thank you so much! I do love being able to sew a nice pair of pants!!

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  14. Those are some great looking pants - even with a Butt Zipper (that just made me laugh!). I really need to make some pants but with my bodacious backside, the fit is very difficult. I hear that the crotch curve in Burda pants is much better than the big 4 so that might help too. I think I have that issue of Burda. Maybe I'll have to give these a go!

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    1. I've had good luck with Burda. Previously I've had to scoop the curve out a little. I'm assuming I didn't have to do this on this pair because it's meant to have a looser fit through the back crotch. I've had success though with Vogue 9032 and 9155 and Simplicity 2700.

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  15. There’s nothing like a great fitting pair of pants and you definitely have created them!

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  16. Love these on you! You got a beautiful fit and that color is spectacular!
    I will definitely check out this pattern.

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    1. Thanks Ann!! They are actually a pretty versatile color for me!

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  17. These pants are very pretty - in a wool, with that drape, they will look divine. Plus you know what to do with that waistband now....

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    1. Thanks Sarah Liz! I am totally going to be on the lookout for a wool fabric. Especially since they don't actually need much yardage!

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Your comments are appreciated! I will always respond to questions and try to respond to each and every comment!