Simplicity 1945 #BHMDesignerPatterns

I can't believe I haven't blogged in 2 weeks. Winter makes it so tough to get pics!! So today I have some substandard photos :) of an awesome project! :-D

First, here is a smattering of finished, unblogged projects

Burda 1/2020 hoodie

This photo is mid-construction but I finished this Vogue 1674 dress this weekend. 

Too late though for the event I was making it for :(

Simplicity 2061 joggers (may be a wadder)

New Look 6150 top

Vogue 8772 shirt

Simplicity 8948 blouse

Butterick 6183 top

WHEW!

S1945:

I bought this sweater knit from Michael Levine back in October. After prewashing, I was really excited to use it but didn't have a pattern I was certain about. I'm glad I waited!

At some point, I decided I needed 3 new toppers: a black, a white and one more. I wear a lot of grey AND I made this pattern before and loved it (but in a sweater knit with too-open a weave and it didn't hold up) AND it fit for the #BHMPatternDesigners challenge.

I sewed a size medium with a 1/4" forward shoulder adjustment and 1" (total) added to the circumference of the sleeve hem. It sits at the widest part of the forearm for me and I remember it being too snug last time. This way, it sits fine but I can also push it up.

Construction is a little weird IMO. The back has a (beautifully shaped!) cb seam and the neckline is finished with a binding strip. I assume this is because the curve is so tight. However, this seam allowance is 3/8" vs 5/8" everywhere else. My sweater knit was pretty thick once tripled (doubled binding plus the back piece). I ended up ripping that out, recutting the binding strip and attaching it, trimming it, and coverstitching it down. This way, I was able to line the front coverstitching up nicely.

The pattern does include instructions for a serger and has you tack the seam allowance down after sewing since the front and back necklines are already finished.

I used a slightly lighter grey with a wider needle width and really like how it turned out! The only other adjustment was to sew the side seams at 3/8" from waist to hem.

I was in leggings today as it was an off day (and failed sew day). paired with a top from Burda 8/2018

I was working on this dress from the 5/2019 Ottobre today and for someone unknown reason, cut it in a 44/46 (44 neckline, 46 everywhere else). This does NOT fit me. As the side seam is gathered, I can't take it in anymore without completely disrupting the lines. Based on *my* experience with Big4 and Burda, this is approximately equal to a Burda 44 & Big4 18.

At this point, the side seams are basted (overlapping fronts serged together), the neckline is finished and the sleeves are cut out (~ 3/4 length). The fabric is a rayon blend double knit from Metro Textiles. 

If you'd like to in-progress dress to finish up, let me know. I posted a video of the dress in my IG stories.