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Monday, April 20, 2020

McCall's 7976



Yet another "OMG I WANTED TO SEW THIS THE MOMENT IT WAS RELEASED!" pattern :-p
 

And I was absolutely fixated on pairing *this* pattern and *this* fabric. I got this piece of crepe on the trip to Ginny's Fabric in Rochester. I'd also like to pat myself on the back for having sewn 4 of the 5 fabrics I bought that day! And the 5th is on tap to be sewn. Woot!

If you recall, a sewing friend had snagged this 1 7/8 yard remnant and then decided last minute not to get it. I happily scooped it up because the colors were just. so. me.
  
pants are NL6459 that I never reviewed (and are now a touch too small. shhhhh!)

I cut a size medium which is typical for me with Big4 SML patterns. I added 1" to the arm opening and 1" to the back via slash and spread.

The finished bust on the medium is 46" and I'm about 39". I think people see a big number like that and think it must be huge. I think it's important to remember the difference between wearing ease (necessary) and design ease. It's an oversized top, it's meant to be loose fitting...but as you can see, it isn't huge or sloppy or anything like that. So I'd say go with your normal Big4 size for the intended fit.

 
gah. my posture is atrocious. 
The fabric is light enough to tuck that long back in if I want. 
 
I'd planned on view D (red) and the medium called for 1 3/4 yards.

of 60" fabric.

DOHHHHHHH! I had 1 7/8 yards of 45"(!) fabric. I was 1/2 yard short and it mattered. It mattered! It has cut on sleeves and that tie front so the front pattern piece was huge.

I ended up having to cut the front tie separately and sew it to the front after the fact. I just folded the pattern piece up, added 3/8" seam allowance on both sides, and sewed. Whew.

THEN, I had to cut the back in 2 pieces so there's a CB seam.

THEN I had to cut the facings slightly off grain to fit them on the scraps I had left. Now, there was always the option of using a different fabric which I considered, but wanted to use the fashion fabric and they're only *slightly* off grain.

And THENNNN lol! when I tried it on, I couldn't figure out why the pleats were made the way they were. Well, there was a shoulder notch and the pleat. I notched the pleats and folded front pleat end to notch instead of pleat-end to pleat-end. DOH! So I had to undo the serger stitching and stitches and resew those and then the fit made sense!

Love, love, love the buttons I ended up using. I originally planned on plain white buttons but the stripe is so dominant (and I managed to match the stripes pretty well even with not having enough fabric!) that I needed something that popped and these gold buttons were it.

Making a forward shoulder adjustment is new to me and I keep forgetting. You can see it rolling back in these pics. Doh!

Lastly, I could have sworn I was told that the fabric was a viscose crepe but I could be wrong. I took pics of all the bolt ends of the fabric I bought but this one was tacked on at the end. This is definitely a poly crepe. Maybe (Mayyyyyybe) a blend but it behaved like poly and I cursed it every single moment. But I love the top (AND THE BUTTONS!) so all is forgiven :-p

I had a mini fashion show and this top worked with bottoms that were:
yellow
navy
camel (admittedly kind of boring but with fun shoes - could work)
red
salmon/peachy color
deep pink
olive
denim
and will work with white

SCORE!

I really like this top and could see making it again - even this view - but with a MUCH shorter length in back. Aside from all of my mishaps, it went together rather easily and is super cute on like, EVERYONE that makes it. 

I've made a couple knit dresses that I will hopefully photograph this week:


S2246 on the left, a "hacked" M6754 on the right. Both in double brushed poly 
(I KNOW! I thought I'd never touch the stuff again but the prints sucked me in!)

And I'm working on a slow-sewing project - Burda 4/2019 #102. An unlined, raglan jacket in a cotton twill from Mood with a few creative touches :)

I'm really excited about this one!  

I've been posting my progress on the jacket on Instagram stories. I keep getting excited at each step and then stop to think about what I have left to do, then remind myself this IS A SLOW SEWING PROJECT! lol!!!!!!

So yeah, I need to press the side seams and attach the sleeves and press and serge and attach the collar and do all that fun stuff and hem it and I have to do the buttonholes (which I fixated on these buttons and my machine can't make buttonholes that large so I'll have to do some work) and sew on the buttons and then I think it'll be done. :)

Hope you are staying sane and safe <3

20 comments:

Robyn said...

It's a really cute top even with all the fabric wrangling you had to do. I also love the look of your stripe dress and you know that jacket is going to be a winner!

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

I'm totally amazed at how much sewing you've gotten done especially since we've been home the same amount of time! You're inspiring me to keep pushing. Can't wait to see the striped knit shirt dress on you and this top is perfectly you.

BarbaraShowell said...

I made maybe the 2nd favorite panties of my LIFE (and I’m getting old) out of some dbp. Best use I could ever see for it. The McCall’s top on top is tempting me. That jacket, though! Nice.

Catherine said...

Love that top! The fabric is so fun! Can't wait to see the striped dress on you; it looks amazing. And I can tell that coat is going to be another swoon-worthy project already.

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thank you Robyn!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

SEWWWWWWW! :-D

I think you were without sew-jo for a bit at the beginning and I just dove in headfirst.

I love that shirtdress! The sun is out today so, soon!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Oh interesting about the dbp!

I really like the McCall's top and there are a lot of options in that envelope!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thank you Catherine!!

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

cute top and that stripe dress is fantastic. the jacket is looking good! I like to have a slow project going while I squeeze in an easy project for mental breaks :)

Audrey said...

Super cute top. I can see how it would go with so many different colored bottoms. And you sewed two dresses and almost completed a jacket. You are on a roll!

Vanessa said...

I love your top, and don't know how I missed this one (oh yeah, too many patterns already, lol). I will have to keep this one on my list. I tried a similar style with Seamwork that did not work out, and I love V necks.

Your two dresses look amazing! I think the softness of double brushed poly is what I love most.

That jacket is so so nice! Looking forward to seeing it as it progresses.

L said...

Those buttons are perfect and I like where this coat is going!

Linda L said...

I love your top, cute style. I think you did a great job with the limited fabric. Your dresses are gorgeous. I have purchased dbp and with one washing, it pilled and colors seem to fade. I am not sure if there is a better quality dbp out there or not; I definitely have not found it. It seems to be most available knit type.

katherine h said...

I like your version of this top much better than the pattern envelope. Great fabric choice.

Can't wait to see the final outcome of your slow sewing project.

jmsx3 said...

I just finished that blouse and plan on making two more in light summer-weight fabric. I have a funny comment/question, though -- the pleat in the front pieces is pleated toward your face, and I'm wondering why. I did mine the same way (according to the pattern), and I wonder if it might be better if pleated in the other direction. And I don't know how you squeezed this one out of your fabric, not a lot of scraps, right? Looks good, though!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Pleats are funny that way, aren’t they? I like them this way... but also on my recent BurdaStyle top (unblogged), I went back and forth on which way to press the pleats and ended up going the opposite of what the pattern intended.

Doctor T Designs said...

These are so cute! Love the top it looks so great on you!

Kathy said...

I love all your sewing! I’m having a problem with the buttonhole guide. Marks are good until the top two marks. Please advise if possible! Thank you so much!!

Kathy said...

I love all your sewing! I’m having a problem with the buttonhole guide. Marks are good until the top two marks. Please advise if possible! Thank you so much!!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thank you!

The guide included with the pattern?? I don’t often use them. If they’re not quite right, measure the distance between the buttonholes and space them accordingly.

What I normally do is place the button at the bustline and then space them out 3-3.5 inches depending. A looser fitting top can have more space between buttons than a fitted one.