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Thursday, December 16, 2021

Simplicity 9275

I have to take some quick pics of my failed S9373 cardigan...I used a BEAUTIFUL charmeuse sweater knit on that darned pattern! grr!

But, my mojo was redeemed with this project! 

I cut a size 14 with the back graded to a 16 through the hip. I shortened the top above the band 1", and did a 1" full bicep adjustment. 

Warning if you have hips/butt, the band is just a rectangle. I would alter the back band to be more of a trapezoid shape or very light peplum to ensure there was enough room. See crude drawing below :-p


While there is a little extra back length, most of those wrinkles is because the lower band can't relax. And you can see on the side view that it's pulling to the back. Again, some of that is how I'm standing/twisting, but yeah...I need more room in the back band. 

I refused(!) to do a facing on this pattern and ended up stitching a line at 5/8", clipping, turning and topstitching. As SOON as I finished the top, I thought, DOH! why didn't I do a strip of binding as a facing?! (stitch, turn to the inside and topstitch). SO I think the neckline might be too flimsy and I am debating if I should remove the coverstitching and add a faced binding.


I added 1" to the sleeve length and left a 3" opening for the slit. Just a little fun detail, no real reason otherwise :)


I cut a few samples to test the topstitching options because I wasn't certain I'd add the pocket. I had to cut the pocket on the cross grain (top) because the fabric was behaving weird and stretching out of shape with it cut on-grain. The pocket is a fun addition. Speaking of fabric, it's a "ponte" by Telio...their leggero which is quite interesting. It's opaque and drapey (65% rayon/31% nylon/4% spandex) and is just under 7oz/yd) and washes, presses, and sews well. It does wrinkle really easily though. 



I think it works with a lot of items, as long as the waistband is flat. I have never been much of a tunic fan (because they don't tend to work well narrow shoulders and a bum!) but I am trying to get on board. I tried it with jeans, slim pants, cropped pants, trousers, and a straight skirt so here's a couple of looks!



Not sewing related, I stalked this DKNY top for so long at Macy's! It was $59 and I was just unable to for a poly top. It went on sale Black Friday/Cyber Monday and I scored it for $29, that's in my budget! It's a pleated fabric with a ruffled color and neck tie, and it's in black & white print which makes it a perfect fit into my wardrobe.