Burda Challenge: 2/2017 #110

I'd planned on making the wide-legged pants from February but when I went to look through the mag again I was all OHEMGEE I forgot about this dress!

I was considering making the 6/2017 dress from denim but thought those side inserts on the skirt wouldn't work well with the weight of denim I had and then I thought A+B should = Awesome!

I've never made a dress from denim. I've always felt a little weird about a dress from denim. But so many awesome sewers make denim dresses that look awesome and well, I like awesome dresses so why not?! Whew!

I got this denim from SR Harris and there's a lot of it! I traced the pattern in a size 40 neckline/shoulders and 42 for the rest.

Pattern Description:

Burda's description is weird. It's a shift dress. Fitted through the bust. It's not as A-line as I thought it would be; it is straight from the waist down. And it is short!

Pattern Sizing:

Burda regular 34-42

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes! Although Meg from the Burda blog added grommets and so I wanted grommets! Or eyelets. Or whatever.

I went to JA and was uncertain of the choices. I almost went with the large ones, but I chose these because of the color. They are some new fangled kind that doesn't require interfacing or a second layer of fabric. But I knew I would be facing my dress because of that front V (which, I hate V's when they are cut on the fold. They always end up a little 'soft'). I decided to use the lighter weight fabric vs using the denim.

The second one on the left and the third one on the right are slightly out of line.

My facing doesn't sit perfectly flat at the bottom :/

I'd never done them before and I've been SO SCARED! But I did it! Hopefully everything won't have eyelets/grommets now. lol!

No smug satisfaction today! Just wonderment! :-D

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Burda? I didn't look at them. No real need for the version I made. Now, if you make this, PLEASE BEWARE. Those pattern pieces look *very* rectangular and you should mark either the seam attachment numbers that Burda includes or something.

And then I cut them out in order and pinned them right away so I wouldn't get confused.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

It's so cute! I love the tie front, the mini length, and of course, the pockets.

Fabric Used:

Denim and polka-dot shirting from stash scraps.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I used an exposed zipper. I know people don't like them. Good thing they don't have to wear this dress! Har, har...

I went with what I had in stash and its way longer than the pattern intends. On the tech drawing, the zipper ends right below that first horizontal seam.

I was going to scrap it and do an invisible; but IMO it turned out okay.

I didn't add hem allowances, as per usual with Burda. I used a 1 1/4" hem (5/8" double turned)

<3 I like neatness

I wasn't sure if I was going to like the finished dress and just went with packaged bias tape instead of making some from the polka-dot as I planned.

I could have used an FBA (I swear my b00bs are getting bigger. I haven't gained weight but I've gone from a 34E to 34F. BOOOOO!)

And I always do a 40 armhole but this one isn't fitting so well. I'm not sure if the armhole is too small or if it's the small bust that's making it wrinkle up. (see the 1st photo I posted)

This whole weekend was very overcast and the house was too dark for photos. 

Selfie Stick + Photobomb by Wilson the Cat

 So I went outside! This park is down the street from my house. I figured there would be something I could set my mini tripod up on. 

I don't want to learn photography...blergh...but I know the issue with using the phone is that, when lighting is sub-optimal, you can't focus. Most of the photos were so dark because the camera was focused on the sky.

You can see the bust pulling here, and the shorty-short length!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I do like it more than I expected. It's the kind of simple, easy-to-wear thing that's perfect for summer. I probably won't sew it again but I do recommend it if it caught your eye.

The sky was just beautiful <3

Finished: McCall's 7465

I didn't know I needed this pattern until I saw Margo's version! Do NOT be surprised if you see multiple iterations of this one over here!

This is so my style!

Pattern Description:

Pullover dress with close-fitting skirt has neckline, sleeve and skirt variations. A, B: Batwing sleeves and cowl neckline. C, D: Short dolman sleeves and scoop neckline. A, D: Ruching on one side of skirt.

Pattern Sizing:

6-14, 14-22. I used a 14/16, as per usual.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes! <3

Were the instructions easy to follow?

They were, although I sewed the simpler version. I didn't review the instructions for the ruched view.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love the fit, the cut-on sleeves, the blousing, the length (I used the longer skirt)...It's so simple but so much impact!

I disliked the neck binding. WAY too long and too wide. I did make mine narrower but would go down another 1/8".

Fabric Used:

Rayon jersey from FM (one of the precuts) in magenta

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I cut a 14 through the neck and shoulder and a 16 for the rest. Normally I would cut a 14 armhole, but this is a cut on sleeve and I have large biceps so I went with the 16. Also, I almost cut the 18 skirt but this is meant to be fitted and I didn't want to chance it being droopy.

*I figured this was a good place to add this...

A comment asked about the skirt pattern pieces. The skirt uses the same front and back piece. I almost traced off a 16 front and 18 back, what I would do normally for a fitted skirt. I JUST recalled that I DID add 1/2" to the side seam on the back piece, because my butt.

THANK YOU Chabe for your question!

The pattern piece is shaped though.

As mentioned, I narrowed the neck binding somewhat.

An all-in-one pic!

Double turned and topstitched hem: Even though it's fitted I didn't see the need for the stretch of a twin-needle finish. 

Neckline binding with my label :-D : Of the 3 labels I ordered from Dutch Label Shop, I am thinking this one is my favorite. FYI there are 5 days left to use the code sewcraftychemist for a 15% discount.

Elastic waist finish: I can't remember now what they instructed but with knits I alway serge first, then stitch at the seam allowance, leaving an opening. After threading the elastic through, I close up the opening and distribute the elastic.

Hem

Armholes

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Oh yes and OH YES! :) If you didn't scoop this one up, you should. 

You can see my binding lifting away from my neck a bit. That's because it was SUPER DUPER EXTRA LONG!!!! Measure your neck opening and decide what length you need based on the stretch of your fabric.

This is what I normally do; I pretty much never use binding pieces in patterns. Blergh.

But I still love it though! And I love the color!!!

Also finished, because I didn't start on my Burda dress this weekend, is M6996 (I decided I needed a bright cardigan and I adore coral) and V1501 (because I went to trace the Burda dress and saw bright yellow fabric and squealed out loud and so, yeah! :-p

Up soon!

Friday Miscellany

First, I'm going to be one of those people...Feel free to skip ahead...this is a mini rant.

 

I hate how casual everything and everyone has become. I hate that the idea of "appropriate dress" for the locale and occasion seems non-existent. And no, it doesn't affect me or bother me directly. But still, call me Ms. Complaining McComplainerton.

 

Today I was asked again --seriously, I've been here 2 years. I don't dress casually!!-- why I was "so dressed up on a Friday". I have on my Burda 7136 chambray skirt and Lekala khaki skirt with a brown leather belt and sandals.

I do have on giant earrings :-D but no other jewelry.

 

 

I am not dressed up. I am not dressed up by any stretch of the imagination. 

 

I honestly do get annoyed by the insistence that a skirt or a dress is automatically 'dressed up' (OMG!!! People's reactions to dresses is insane). A dress is one thing. You put on a single thing and you're done getting dressed! That makes dresses SMART AND AMAZING! Hahahaha! And it's one of the reasons I own so many! I know plenty of ladies who dislike dresses on principal, I get that. But dresses aren't dressy by sheer fact of being a dress. :whine:

 

/rant off

 

ANYWAY!

 

So you may have noticed in some photos that I'm sewing in a different area. DD moved out and I quickly (immediately) moved my basics to her bedroom which is across the hall from my bedroom, a few feet from the kitchen...such a WIN! This has made me realize that in the future, a basement sewing room won't work for me. Right now, my patterns and fabrics are still in the basement (her room is small) and that's okay. But I love the lighting and proximity to the rest of the house.

 

I decided that I am buying the Brother 2340CV coverstitch machine for my birthday! I've wanted one for-forever and watched some videos on it and am so, so sold. LOL!

 

I had a nice sturdy desk in the basement that is way too big 1) to lug upstairs and 2) for that bedroom so I set up the folding card table again. Well, the old house must've had more solid floors or something because now it shakes like crazy when the serger is going. I took to PR to ask what people sew on and got lots of suggestions but many were out of the (almost non-existent) budget.

But I don't want to make any permanent arrangements in this room because 1) she's 19. She may be back. Although I moved out at 19 and never lived with my parents again. 2) I rent. The market is absolutely ridiculous if you're a first timer (e.g., don't have a house to sell as well). So while my place is stable, it isn't permanent. I don't want to buy a bunch of new stuff to tailor to this room. But I know exactly what I want when I DO have a permanent space! It'll be an IKEA fest. :)

 

For now I'm going to plan to paint the super sturdy but not attractive white pine desk with some chalk paint, it should be able to hold the serger and coverstitch just fine. And then I'll just need a table for the sewing machine. Tis the season of garage sales and closet clean outs!

 

I sewed a new dress, McCall's 7465, view C (blue). OhEmGee! LOVE. Can't wait to review this one!

 

This weekend I want to work on my Burda 6/2017 dress. And actually, I want to get caught up on my Burda Challenge! I've only sewn from March and April so far.

 

The weather is nice and I've been walking 3-4 days a week. I think I'll make the pants in capri length (will probably stop where the zippers are supposed to start). (01/2017)

 

I love these pants and have a lightweight linen/cotton blend that I think would be perfect for them! If you've seen this pattern 2/2017 #104, you've seen the weird butt flaps. I'm not doing those.

 

I really liked this top when it came out, despite Burda using poplin for it. There are tons on the Russian site and it's started to pop up on blogs. It's so cute!  (05/2017)

 

This is the dress I'll be starting this weekend. (06/2017)

I am kind of in love with this weird top from July. I will trace off the lower sleeve but I'd like to see how the top looks without it. This is one of those times where I'm trusting Burda. You all know I will sew some of their weirdness up in a minute! It's oversized -- and when they say oversized, they mean it -- but it looks fun so, why not? I think fabric choice will be key.

 

 

Yes, I know I had 10 dresses on dress-a-palooza. I've sewn 2 and another will be my birthday dress. Oh and the Sewaholic Saltspring! I want that so bad!! :) BUT, I had 4 tops on top-a-palooza and sewed all 4! Win!

 

Additionally, June plans were:

M6519 x2

Nettie x2
Burda 2/2013
Burda 6/2017
V1501 skirt
B5760 skirt

 

I may not make the lace skirt although it is pretty early in the month. I've made the 2 tops and am down to 1 Nettie because of fabric. So see? I'm kinda-sorta on track! :-p

 

It's supposed to be HOT here this weekend so I may get more sewing done than I originally thought!

McCalls 6519 x2

1: Cheesy happy face

2: IDK why I bought these patent pumps. I pretty much hate them.

(they were the only black shoes nearby and I was actively running away from the cat lest he rub against my new black pants. Probably adding the shoes to the donation pile)

 

Pattern Description:

Pullover top has purchased bias tape to finish neckline and armholes.

Pattern Sizing:

6-14, 14-22. I cut a size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes!

Were the instructions easy to follow?

They were, although it's a simple one :)

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I like the fit. I really should grade it at the hips. I've said that before, I have yet to do it. Oops! You can see it gets hung up on the butt; but is so cute tucked in:

Fabric Used:

Rayon challis I black/white print from FM.
Rayon challis from SR Harris.

So, when I bought this way back when, they had it labeled as "sandwashed rayon" and I was smitten. Well now that I'm finally sewing with it, it felt no different than all of the other printed rayon challis' that I've used! Hmmph! :)

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I left off the pocket. And because I get all antsy having to trim after applying bias tape, I just went to the edge on the sleeve hems. So they're a bit longer than intended.

The pattern suggests purchased bias tape but I made my own. Super fast with the Clover tape makers.

I used my stock labels as I figured the others would be too bulky on the challis. The b/w one that is still in my wardrobe from 2013 has the weird tiny pocket, so I can tell front from back. On these, I kept having to hold them up by the shoulder seams to distinguish, so this is a perfect use!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

This is a TNT for me so probably so. Especially if I give myself the hip butt room that I need :) I don't like the colorful print on me as much as I did as flat fabric, but that's okay. It'll work for summer.

If you've been around awhile, you've probably come to recognize smug satisfaction face. :-D I was worried that there was enough variation in the "stripe" that it wouldn't really match well...but it did!

 

 

 

These are the same pants as the red pair, from LOFT in their (curvy) Julie fit. They showed up today and I was all giddy and then I took these pics (of the top), but then made my friends look at this one because OHMYGOSH these pants make my butt look so good! I'll be watching these to collect other colors, for sure.

 

I am totally going to adjust the pattern and add some more hip room before I put it away!! And while I may not be crazy about the print, I just love the fit on this pattern.

 

Because veering off course is kind of what I do...I sewed up M7465 and just need to add a neck binding. I washed up that sateen for the 2/2013 Burda dress and it's just bright and fun and pretty; it may be this year's birthday work-dress! Stay tuned!

Friday Miscellany and Vogue 1392

I am on a spending ban for the month of June. I went to HomeGoods though (bad idea). I wanted this cute little tray for all of my post earrings and fashion rings!!! But I just admired it and didn't buy it.

I did buy these earrings today for $2.25 :)  

(wearing one of my many versions of B5760)

Hey; these were purchased in May! :-p

The grey print is a cotton pique knit. I *swear* it said 4-way stretch. But this fabric is 100% cotton (no Lycra-wah) and only stretches crosswise. Plus, the pique is too heavy for a summer top. Into the stash it goes. The 'eggshell' Nettie will happen!

I got new black sandals (also in May!! lol!) 

Soooo V1392...

You have to understand that by the time I decide to blog that something isn't working, it's not on a whim. I don't think the dress is terrible or awful. It looks fine on me. But I'm just not feeling it. Not even that "it's okay but doesn't make me super excited!", it feels bland and blah. I don't know if it feels too fall-like? And not necessary because of the color choices, I think it just doesn't make me think "summer" and clearly, with my current pattern picks, I am full steam ahead into sewing for summer!

On Monday I got it assembled to try on and as mentioned on Wednesday, felt meh about it. Since Monday, I haven't gone back in the sewing room. 

Not that I haven't worked on it, or haven't sewn...I walk past and see it on the dressform and keep walking! I haven't been *IN* the room! 

I'm not wadding it; I'll put it in the basket to revisit later. 

I sewed a size 16 with 14 neckline. I removed a 3/8" wedge from the upper back. I initially added 1.5" to the hemline and went back and removed 1 3/4". I did a 5/8" swayback adjustment. 

I removed some of the hip curvature:

I intended to do an all-in-one facing but missed tracing off the lower part of the armhole! hahaha! I was just going to make armhole facings and maybe I will when the time comes.

I kicked BUTT on matching the seam. 

As you can see, it resulted in my upper edge being slightly off. I went back and trimmed it to match. I insert the first side, mark the seam on the other side of the zipper and then I sew about 1" or so on either side of the marking and check to see if it matches. I got it right the first time here! yay! But if it doesn't match, you're ripping out a very small section vs the entire side of a zipper.

Wilson the cat is inspecting the photo area

The facing is just sewn on; not under stitched or pressed, that's why the neckline is lumpy

Cute but gives me a serious case of the blahhhhhhhhs

Nice fit through the back waist. I don't know about the upper back and how it's supposed to fit because Vogue has that ridiculous and useless cover photo!

So, not a fail but not "it". And I've moved on! I'm not revisiting this anytime soon! lol!!! Maybe this fall...

I've cut out and sewn both versions of the M6519 top. Still need to make some bias tape and finish 'em up. I have a super busy Saturday planned but should get some time on Sunday to sew.