Sunday, January 7, 2018

TNT V9032 & Burda 11/2007 #113

It's the 8th version of V9032 - 4 are still in my wardrobe. One pair was ruined with the skirt, 1 pair sprung a hole in the thigh (thick-thighed ladies unite!) and 1 pair is on it's last legs. When the black pair ripped, it was right along the seam line. I patched it up and continued wearing them. And eventually, the fabric ripped completely.

This year I've been way more into slim fit or wide legs and less into the bootcut, so I opted for the fuller leg view of this pattern. Back when I made this view before, I wasn't thrilled with them. Now? I LOVE them. I wear the blue ones all the time but can't wear them during winter as it is a very lightweight suiting. I am happy to get another pair and obviously need a black trouser in the wardrobe!

There is, thankfully, nothing of interest to report on the pants! Yay! I sewed my normal size, an 18, with an adjustment for an additional bit of width in the hip. I haven't gained weight but my body composition has changed. At any rate, I didn't want the pleats to do weird things so I added 3/8" to the back pattern piece from the waist through the hip. I also decided to add the pockets this time which is why I only adjusted the back! I didn't want to adjust the several pieces related to the pockets. LOL! I also adjusted the back waistband/facing piece accordingly.

I stabilized the pockets with a 1/2" strip of lightweight fusible interfacing immediately after cutting. I must get some fusible stay tape soon! For the purposes of this pattern though, the interfacing worked. No pocket gaping!

This fabric pressed so nicely but I was still very careful to baste, baste, baste while I was working on them. And because I didn't want to use chalk on the black pants, I ended up thread tracing my fly template. It's just the pattern piece in suiting fabric double interfaced. I should cut it out of something would be great to have a plastic version! I stitched just inside the basting here:

The pattern has you stretch the back leg with steam. The lower pin marks the notch and I laid it flat, and placed the upper pin where I wanted it to be stretched to. It works really well!

The pattern calls for a 3 1/4 or 3 1/2 inch hem (I can't remember). I hemmed at 2 1/4" -- I'm a high heel wearer.

Because things were just coming together so nice and neat, I decided to use double fold bias on the facing. I also used lining fabric to back the fly shield  (this is actually how it's instructed in the pattern but I'm not sure I've done it before).

Another thing I realized when I actually read the instructions (hahaha), they have you construct the waistband/facing, attach it as a unit and then bind the raw edge. That seems like it would be bulky?? The waistband, facing and back waist of the pants all in double fold binding?? I'm never doing it like that!

I just love the finishing on them!!

I often get this point on my trouser waistbands and it drives me MAD. I had already trimmed and graded and understitched and wasn't about to undo it. It'll be fine but ughhhhhhh. 
I assume I end up tapering the stitching without intending to. This waistband is quite curved.

This jacket - WHEW!!!!!!

I had inserted the collar and it felt so weird on my neck. I then realized that it was NOT a traditional notched collar. I did so much unpicking and basting and stitching to figure out how to insert this collar. Good grief!!! I like the front and how it sits in the lapels but it feels really weird around my neck - still. And it's bunching up. I did a narrow shoulder adjustment based on the muslin I made months ago and it didn't feel weird. BUT I did not insert the collar in the muslin. I have worn the jacket and it did bother me a bit. So we'll see how it goes.

The collar is so cool!! But I definitely have some sort of fit issue around the neckline.
Less evident in the above pic, moreso in the mirror selfie below wearing the skirt.

I sewed a size 42 with a narrow shoulder adjustment, full bicep adjustment, 3/8" added to the side seams of the size 42. I did an FBA as well and I think I should have slightly lowered the bust curve at the princess seams. The length was just perfect. I WANTED the view with pockets but when I thought about re-tracing THE ENTIRE pattern and doing the adjustments again...that was a huge nope.

I made shoulder pads and inserted them but then it felt REALLY weird so I took them out. I did use fleece as sleeve heads and it was a little too bulky so I had to trim them back some.

Someone was kind enough to send me the English instructions (I have the German version of the mag) and I have the "Easy Guide to Sewing Jackets". The pattern instructed me to interface the entire fronts, hemlines (jacket and sleeves) and armholes, and to tape the roll line. All pretty solid stuff! I used the info from the book to bag the lining and it worked well but think I misread the instructions for the back pleat. I have very little pleat happening! LOL!!

But it is quite comfortable to wear aside from the neck pulling/bunching (the sizing is nice).  I'm going to say this just may not be the jacket pattern that can become a TNT but I think I'll get some wear from it.

I forgot about the button until I wore it. I meant to do a buttonhole but forgot...and then remembered again when I took pics! I'll have to do that!!

I don't wear suits to work but I have wanted to make a 3-4 piece "set" since FOREVER!! I finished my Burda dress today and that review will be coming soon.

The shoulder fit issue is evident here

The dress is FANTASTIC but the sleeves are wayyyyyy too tight. I'd added 3/4" bicep adjustment but it obviously wasn't enough. I went back and ripped out the stitching to 3/8" - still not enough.

They've been removed, a new sleeve traced, and they'll be redone.  I think I'm going to do the larger bicep adjustment and if necessary, combine it with a gusset. This dress is too nice to have it become a wadder!


  1. Fantastic! You have definitely put time, effort, and diligence into this project. Keep keeping on, KS_SEWS!

  2. I think you did a great job on this jacket! It looks so professional on you! I agree with having separates… Makes for a much bigger wardrobe!

  3. I love the jacket style and commented on it at PR. I like the look of the inside waist band on the pants. I like the full leg style as I think it helps elongate the leg and for me makes me feel taller.

  4. I love your dress. I hope the sleeve redo works because it's lovely on you. The inside of your pants are so nice. This yr I'm trying to finish my seams neatly I've never tried bias binding perhaps it'll look better than my attempts at finishing so far
    Becca G

  5. Love the dress--hope the new sleeves make it wearable. The pants are beautiful inside and out.

  6. Wow! This is all fantastic! Well done!!

  7. Everything that I see here is just so wonderfully tailored. The pants, skirt and dress and spectacular on you with such careful and thoughtful fitting. I do really like the shorter style jacket on you and don't worry about the back neck area, there is still something to remedy it, if you want to put some extra time into it. I love your blog.

  8. Such professional looking pants -wow-I am so impressed with your skill level. All nice pieces. I'm not a tailored jacket person but I see what you mean about the shoulders. There is a solution...

  9. First I'm soooooo jelly now. This is how I like dresssing and I miss it soooooo much! Okay enough about me - let me talk about these amazing pieces. These are gorgeous. I like everything you made and it all works together so well. Question ~ are you going to make another jacket to go with these pieces or are you done and making it work?!

    1. Going to make it work!! I have about 1.25 yards of the fabric left. I'm thinking I'll make another dress (different pattern) with color blocking or another skirt of some sort!

  10. Those are some really fine looking slacks. Beautiful! Wide is good on you.

  11. Replies
    1. Thanks Faye! Hope your pants exploration is still progressing well!

  12. Your outfits look good. I hope you can work out a more comfortable collar

  13. I love it all! You are SO talented, and everything looks so professionally made. I look forward to seeing your dress, and hope you fixed the issue with the sleeve.

    1. Thank you!! The sleeves are off and will be redone soon. I want to wear the dress for a board meeting next week!!!

  14. These are brilliant pieces to have in your wardrobe, you know you will always get good use out of them. Those pants make your legs look so long (maybe they are, I don't know?!) and the inside finishing is fantastic. Hope you can fix the dress to be comfortable to wear because it really does look great.

    1. Thank you!!! I also think they make my legs look extra long! I'm average height 5'5" and have average length, thick legs!

  15. The jacket and pants look so good! One of my goals this year is to have lovely finishing on my pants innards, yours are so inspirational!


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