Burda 1/2018 #119

I love this pattern. I was uncertain for a moment because of the hi-low hem and pleated sleeves. Now, I'm not a hi-low hem hater (sorry y'all!)...I think they're fine at times...But I was worried about the bulk of the sleeve especially with this heavyweight knit.

It *is* bulky in this fabric but I don't mind it.

One thing I like about Burda is that, in terms of fit, often what you see is what you get. A baggy, slouchy garment fits as such and when Burda shows you tight-fitting or low-cut, get ready! :)

I went with a straight size 40 (vs grading to a 42) and added 3/8" seam allowances. If you make this and plan to bind the lower edge, you do not need to add any allowances to the hem. Now, one thing I did not realize is that the zipper length given is for the largest size. I had a pale grey zipper but it was 24" and therefore too long. As mentioned on Instagram when I was working on this - *I* cannot shorten metal zippers. I do not possess the hand strength to do so. Luckily, I had this 22" zipper in stash also.

I briefly toyed with the idea of not binding the pockets but I'm glad I did! I think it looks really good! Another suggestion for you -- extend that pocket about an inch or so out. I feel like I can just barely fit my hands in there. I used Wonder Tape to hold the pockets in place while topstitching with the coverstitch. Worked perfectly. I do need to go back and bartack the ends. Also, I'd lengthen the sleeve an inch if I made this again.

I know(!) I had a grey athletic knit in the stash but couldn't find it. I used a white mesh knit for the hood lining and used eyelets for the drawstring opening. I'd already topstitched the channel for the drawstring (used cotton twill tape from SR Harris) not realizing I was supposed to do that last, resulting in a clean finish on the neckline. Oops!

This fabric washed, cut, sewed and pressed like a dream! (This was another Fashion Fabrics Club find.) I did most of the construction on the sewing machine. I serged pattern pieces prior to sewing them together because of the thickness of the fabric.

I know the length of the sleeve looks fine but while wearing it it feels like it needs to be longer!

You can also see a little bust pulling but, casual garment, will probably rarely be zipped, not worth going up a size and having an overall baggy fit.

I was honest-to-goodness sneaking and wearing this because I knewwwwwww! My daughter came home one night and gasped and asked me to make her one PLEASE :) It's easy...I'll do it. She didn't even want the binding, saying that was "too fancy" so she'll have a mustard-colored hoodie coming up soon.

Oh, another important note...this big headed-lady fits the hood just fine! :-)