Tuesday, January 15, 2019

Butterick 6378 & Burda 6432

I first made B6378 last April and am super surprised that it took me this long to get back to it.  I picked up this fabric in December 2017 from SR Harris and always knew I wanted to use it for this pattern. It takes me awhile to get excited to sew sheer, slippery fabrics.

No major changes from the last version:
I used my normal size 14 with the following adjustments:
1" FBA and left the dart (I intended on rotating it into the gathers at the shoulder and forgot)
3/4" full bicep adjustment
Sewed a narrow hem. The pattern hem is 3/4".

Last time I inserted elastic into the sleeve hem. I don't hate it but decided to go in a different direction this time. I gathered the sleeve and made a little cuff.


I used my featherweight black interfacing scored from FabricMart and cut the band to finish at 3/4" and about 10" in circumference.


When I sew slippery fabrics, I cut the facings and take them to the ironing board, reshape with the pattern piece, then fuse the interfacing. Somehow, while inserting my facing (or something), it was INSANELY skewed. I am not exactly sure what happened. 

I ended up serging the excess off of one side and topstitched around the opening. I figure the tie will be covering it at all times.


This was a December project. I finished it about a month ago and I think I've worn it about once per week! I love it!

There have been some great conversations going on about fit while sewing. I think the simplest concept to take from a complicated issue is, we never stop learning about fit! 

I have made many pairs of pants and they've varied in how well they fit, but I learned something HUGE with this pattern.

I cut a size 16 and did a 1 1/4" full butt adjustment, shaped the crotch curve a bit and added a little to the crotch point. The back view was not good when I basted them together. They WERE a little too tight but my primary concern was that I had A TON of wrinkles and pulling. I was unpicking basting stitches and had a lightbulb moment.

I flat pattern measured the thigh and huzzah! It was about 1.5" smaller than my thigh! I opened the inseam from mid-thigh through the crotch and to the other thigh and tried them on. I need way more inner thigh room. 
To get to the point on the right, I took less of a seam allowance on the back leg only, through the thigh:


 I'm excited to give this pattern another try with my ideas on the leg / crotch fit! I have my own method for fly zippers but this pattern had excellent (IMO) instructions! I think this is the best finish I've ever gotten!!

As you may have noticed, I removed the pockets. If you scroll up to that before-and-after, you can see how they were gaping. The messed up thing is, I had used lining fabric for the pockets and had to unpick them to use the fashion fabric, and THEN ended up removing them completely. So annoying!!

Things I did NOT like:
The narrow waistband. HATE. I'm not sure why I didn't change it when I noticed how thin (1" I believe) it finished. 

I usually DIY my belt carriers because I hate when they are too thick (to me). These are a little too wide. 

My own mistake - I bought this fabric from Metro Textiles to make a dress. I should have made a dress. The fabric isn't great as pants. When I wore the pants for the first time, they grew so much throughout the work day that I could almost pull them down over my hips without unbuttoning! I interfaced both he waistband and the waistband facing and it still collapses and is very much affected by body heat. WAH. 

 I am currently working through a Burda blouse that's trying hard to take me out! It's trying to get me!!!! I think(?) I'm almost done with it? Sometime this week :)

I have slowly been cutting Butterick 6641 out (the paper pattern). If I can get this cut out, it'll probably take me the rest of the month to finish it once the other top is done. Had more testing Monday with a follow up to my doc this Friday. Fingers crossed that we find a resolution.

Ooh! MY KAI SCISSORS ARE AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've loved my (several pair) of Ginghers for years now. The Kai scissors I ordered are SUPER lightweight, has the bent handle, the grips are soft and all 4 fingers can fit in the grip which makes cutting easier. Yay!!


18 comments:

  1. Tip that I use and might help you in the future with the facings: I use fusible almost all the time, and what I do is fuse it to the fabric section BEFORE I cut the fabric facing out. Then I have no hassle at the ironing board trying to get the facing back in shape as it is secured by the interfacing already ironed on.

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    1. Ooh yes, great idea. I block-fuse sometimes, will have to remember to do that next time!

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  2. I love that blouse and the coloour is great on you.

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  3. I learned a lot from your pants fitting experience, thanks!

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  4. I've been waiting for pics of that blouse, cause I'd love the IG pics. Sorry about the pants. And my KAI scissors are the best thing since sliced bread. Definitely need to buy another pair!

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  5. that blouse is really pretty. I can only have one of this type of blouse as the tie is fussy and I end up moving it all day long!

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    1. Thank you!
      Ooh I can't do clothes that feel fussy to wear so I hear ya!

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  6. I love Kai scissors, too. Samurai swords for sewing!

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  7. Bummer about the issue with the pants, but your next version will be pretty amazing. I do love that top.

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  8. I love your blouse. So pretty and great work on those pants !

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  9. Your tie blouse looks amazing!! I had one on my list last year and never did it. I am gonna have to revisit that style. I can see why you are wearing it often.

    I am sorry your pants grew, because they look gorgeous! I really love the fabric color, and the beautiful way you finished it.

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  10. I know you've made Simplicity 8216, how does the Butterick compare? A tad less fussy with the details, maybe? Your pants look great btw, so profesh!

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  11. This is a lovely blouse and pants - they both look great :)

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