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Sunday, August 4, 2019

Vogue 1501 and Kommatia Patterns Relaxed Tee

Vogue 1501 is a Rachel Comey design that was pretty popular when it was first released. The dress version is super cool (though I can do without the shoulder pads!) but the skirt!!

When I made the dress, I tried the skirt on mid-way and was sold. I sewed a skirt from the same fabric is the dress immediately after then made a yellow version. When I decided this crepe from Mood needed to become a full skirt, V1501 was the immediate choice. 

This fabric! Swoon! It's a polyester crepe and with a little steam and a clapper, it takes a press pretty decently. To be a poly fabric, it handled very nicely and the print is beautifully vibrant. I would definitely recommend it!

Same as previous versions, I cut a size 18 and skipped the french seaming on the pockets. Be sure to take the time to baste the pleats!! 


And then, I got a bit ahead of myself. I cut the backs out and went right ahead and insert the zipper. Once it was time to add the waistband I had a ruh-roh! moment. 

I improvised and added an extension and a button. It isn't perfect but it works!


Aside from that, everything is finished nicely :-D



Skirt is pictured with the Kommatia patterns relaxed tee. I scored 7 patterns from the Makerist during a $2 sale. Then I had them all printed as copyshop patterns. I measured the tee before I even looked at the size chart and decided on a size medium - the chart confirms.

Then I sewed up a muslin 
The top was riding up on the hips so I sliced the side seams, as seen. On the paper pattern, I did a slash and spread on the front pattern piece and added 1/2"; on the back, 3/4". This is an extra 2.5" in the hip! Oy!  But again, as you can see, if I had gone up a size, that would have resulted in a poor fit everywhere else. 

Fabric is a sandwashed poly/Modal jersey from Cali Fabrics. I almost blew up my fast when I got this fabric and washed it up! Very nice for knit basics!

It does still have a little too much back length even though I did a cheater swayback adjustment and I could use an FBA. But also, it's a tee. I don't get too worked up at times on those types of fit issues on tees/other simple garments.
Things I like - it has a nice silhouette (I forgot to take a pic untucked, but the muslin shows it) and the rolled cuff sleeves are cute (wrong side of fabric will show).

Things I do not like - The excess fabric in the back sleeve. I'm not quite sure what to do to correct it. Also, the neck binding. It's overly complicated. However, Barbara Emodi who blogs at Sewing on the Edge *just* did a tutorial for crossover neckband and it makes SO much sense! I wish I'd seen this first but will definitely do it this way next time. Also, the neckband in the pattern is 1 to 1 but Barbara mentions needing to stretch the back - yes. Do this. Mine sits away from my neck so I'll shorten it through the center back next time. 


I did small zigzag stitching on the sleeve cuffs vs actual bartacks.

I've applied for a board member position with a local non profit organization and wore this outfit for the interview :-D

Oh, and I know you've seen that new Vogue collection. Did you swoon? Not much for you?

I, somehow both shamelessly and shamefully, added 7 to the stash! :-p