WIP: Burda 11/2007 Jacket

I hope to make this jacket next month; I cannot find the danged lining fabric and will have to pick some up. My budget is really strict this first few months of the year so I'll get some at the end of the month when my 'craft budget' is replenished.

I only had the German copy of this issue and someone kindly emailed me the English directions. These older Burdas are nice with their limited number of patterns! So much easier to trace!

11-2007-113

I traced a straight 42, no adjustments and sewed up the bodice.

Observations:

Shoulders too long (expected)

Too small in the waist (it happens!)

No swayback needed (YAY!)

A little excess fabric in the armhole (BUT the sleeve wasn't attached yet.)

Adjustments:
Removed 1/2" from the shoulder (at the seamline, tapering to nothing at the notches)
Took the shoulder up 1/2"

Observations:
What's THAT wrinkle?
Well, it doesn't really matter because the bicep is too tight. So it feels overall tight and uncomfortable because I can't move my arms.
I put the sleeve in terribly.

Adjustments:

Added 1" to the bicep

ONLY removed shoulder length, did not take the shoulder up

Observations:

YAY! It looks pretty good. 

Wait, where did the sleeve twist come from? It's not there in the un-adjusted sleeve

So was it my adjustment? It's a 2-piece sleeve and I only added to the upper piece. Do I need to adjust the lower piece?

Next:

I will add to the waist (It is VERY unlikely that I will wear the jacket buttoned - I work in a casual dress environment. But jackets SHOULD be able to close)

I will add 5/8" to the sleeve length

I'll try to figure out what went wrong with the twisted sleeve. I could have possibly sent it off grain when adjusting. 

The jacket length is perfect.