Friday, July 7, 2017

Burda Challenge 6/2017 #112

This dress ended up as my work birthday dress because I got distracted by shiny!! Also, I didn't sew nearly as much as I'd planned over the long holiday weekend.

It was SO HOT yesterday! I decided to try to capture photos outside but oh my gosh. I have very few because I was certain I was going to melt right into the grass.

My expression is pained. LOL!
In the side view, I am totally mean-mugging a passerby. She was! I don't know why she was so concerned with what I was doing! Sheesh!
I didn't do my standard 5/8" swayback adjustment. I'm not sure why. I probably just forgot. It's a tad long in back. And, I love the back v but boy is that hard to get into alone! Keep that in mind. 

Pattern Description:
Fitted V-neck dress with godet skirt panels

Pattern Sizing:
36-44. I sewed a 40/42/44.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Were the instructions easy to follow?
They were fine. But again, it's a pretty straightforward silhouette.  As far as lining the bodice, I tend to do technique based stuff like that based on my own experience rather than instructions. (Sometimes I do read them because you never know when you'll learn something new!) When I line a sleeveless dress (or in this case, bodice), it's all about the width of the shoulders. On a wide shoulder I'll sew both up, attach them, and then close up the shoulder seams by machine.

On narrower shoulders, I leave 3 seams open (sides and back), attach neckline/armholes, and then sew the other seams up. This is how I finished this one.

Again, I was able to trim off 1/8" from the lining and avoid understitching. I attached the lining to the skirt seam by hand. This didn't turn out perfectly, it's a little lumpy on the outside, but then I'm never happy when I line the bodice and attach bodice + lining to the skirt at the waist seam. Seems like the bodice ALWAYS sags.

Maybe next time I'll try letting the bodice hang free and add thread chains at the side seams.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the shape. It's right up my alley. The length is perfect and I love a V-neck.

I like the back V too but it's hard to zip yourself into! I should teach Wilson the cat to zip dresses...

The length!! I said that. So what. :)

I did not like the same piece for front and back skirt. For the front you cut on the fold, for the back you add seam allowances and cut 2. I've never seen that before!

The godets went in completely effortlessly. I always take a couple shots in motion and 1) this gives me my "outtakes" that I post sometimes and 2) in this case, shows the godets in motion.

It's such a nice shape. A little swingy and feminine but not too sweet.

Fabric Used:
I went back to my's a poly/wool blend! Poly-cotton(??) suiting from FM. It takes a press beautifully but came out of the dryer (and sewing process!) completely wrinkle free. Hence my assumption that there's some blend of natural and synthetic.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I used a 40 neckline and shoulder, 16 bust and 18 waist/skirt. If there is a waist seam, I need a 44. If not, a 42 is usually okay. I did do flat pattern measurements at the waist and hip.

I used an invisible zipper instead of exposed.

I managed to sew that label super close to the edge. Oops.

I blind-hemmed by machine. My hands have been KILLING ME. Did I mention I was diagnosed with osteoarthritis in my right hand? Yeah. Sigh.


Way back when I first learned that this was a doable thing, I was all excited. But my 1st machine did not do a good job at this. The fabric always wanted to creep horizontally and things would go wonky. So I gave up on blind-hemming by machine. I've had my Singer 7258 for over 2 years and have never done a blind hem because "blind hem by machine sucks". (yes, I am a 12 year old on the inside).

Well, my new machine (yes, you read that right! More to come!!) and I have gotten more acquainted. And I thought, "hmmm...maybe...?? PLUS, this fabric has texture and even if it isn't perfect, it'll be less visible..."

Well, it is darn near perfect! It turned out amazingly well!!

You can *just* see the stitching if you look close enough. You can see them towards the bottom of this pic and follow the line of stitching. I bet, if I went back in on that lower area and steamed it, those would faint a bit more into the fabric.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
If the silhouette interest you, go for it! It isn't anything new or exciting but I like it even so. I wasn't thrilled when I first finished it. I thought the print looked too checkerboard-like. And interestingly, I really did not like it with a black belt. Much better with a pop of color (I have this red one and a yellow one).

I doubt I'd sew it again but I bet the basic b&w print will mean lots of usefulness.

I still have 3 draft posts that need photos and will be ready to go. Not much sewing this weekend so hopefully my blogging will catch up.

Until later!