I sewed! McCall's 7627

PROGRESS!

I'd grown quite frustrated, spent a crap-ton on 3 fabric orders (sigh) and decided to tweak things based on how my hand felt. The next day, I was nearly without any pain!

Some movements still hurt and I am still alternating between splint and braces as needed, but I am doing much better and got the go ahead to sew as long as I was not in pain. And the moment I realized my hand was getting a little fatigued; I quit.

So I'm very happy to be sewing again but won't be spitting out garments back to back any time soon :) My next project will be to finish B6141 since there's very little work left to do and no cutting involved (the toughest part). Next, I hope to start tracing some of the Burda patterns I want to sew up from August and September while working on a small mini wardrobe from a cut of charcoal ponte. I've sewn lots of FUN this summer and need some basic, solid colored garments - except skirts. I don't need anymore skirts :(

 

On to the review...

 

 

I was surprised how much I was drawn to the cover photo of this pattern when it was released, and found I loved all but view D, so it was a must buy. I also want to make view C at some point (maybe next spring) and I think I'll make view A in something with more drape like a blouse-weight crepe should I get to it.

Laying out the pattern was a ROYAL PAIN IN THE ASS!! The sleeve is HUGE. It is just about a yard long and is cut on the bias.

Because shears bother me but the rotary cutter doesn't (yay!); I cut out as much as could fit on the cutting mat, pinned the sleeve to the fabric and adjusted it to cut the rest. Not fun.  Also, follow the cutting layout. I almost went off on my own and I think I would have run out of fabric if I had. (the sleeves and front are cut single layer)

Constructing the first sleeve took 317 hours. Or at least it felt like it. It was very frustrating. I marked the lines with red transfer paper and it was still very hard to see.

So faint! This is sleeve #2 I immediately went over the lines with yellow chalk

I thread traced by hand initially but had to take that out because the lower line of each tuck needs to be eased and my hand stitches were too loose to do so effectively. I probably stretched it out of shape because on the first sleeve, sewing the tucks was VERY hard. I have all sorts of tucks on the under side that I couldn't be bothered to correct at that point!

The second sleeve went better, as expected, but I had the ENTIRE top done before I went back to that sleeve. I just didn't want to go through with it again! LOL!

I kept staring at the one-sleeved top, wanting it, but not wanting to deal with sleeve #2

Overall thoughts:

-The top has A LOT going on but it somehow works! Pleats, the sleeve, the gathers and cuff, the HUGE tie, the peplum...it's a lot of look.

 

 

-The front and back peplum are cut differently. There's very little bias on the front pieces. 

-It's a true wrap; open on the right side.
-I stitched around the tie-opening.
-LOVE the gathering on the belt. And just love it's big, huge, ridiculousness <3

Don't mind all of my blue markings

-I actually love the gathered sleeve. I thought it was too much initially, but it's cute.
-I slip stitched the bands in place by hand

 

Fitting:
-I sewed a 14 neckline/shoulder and 16 for the rest. I should have cut a 14 and did an FBA. Why I didn't, I don't know (lazy? eager??). Before adding the sleeves I thought I had gaping at the wrap. Well, I have A LITTLE and could take a tuck there. But then I found this version of the top at Nordstrom, set the first sleeve in, and allowed it to 'drop' off the shoulder as intended. Ah-ha!! that's how it's supposed to fit! (the neckline isn't as open as the Nordstrom's top)

-I didn't do a swayback adjustment. Why? WHYYYY? Booooo me! I actually think the entire bodice is too long. I would shorten it 1/2" all around

You can see that it isn't just swayback...there's just too much fabric, vertically

-Am very MEH on the pleats. I would change the shoulder pleat to gathers (and do an FBA rotated into the gathers). I don't like the waist pleat at all.

Other points:
-The bands are just a little too tight, they catch when I lift my arms. I measured and told myself to sew them with a 3/8" seam allowance but forgot by the time I got back to them.

-I sewed down the facing on the peplum; on the outer wrap portion only. I had to fix it multiple times during try-on. With the stripe and the fullness and the bow; I knew it would not be visible.

-The 16 called for 4 1/4 yards of 60" fabric -OR- 45". I had 4 yards of 55" -ish fabric and have about 1/2 yard left over. BUT the layout is important because of the huge pattern pieces.

-Aside from the awkwardness of sewing the sleeve tucks, it went together effortlessly. All notches and whatnot matched
-Mind your markings for sure!!
-Serge your side seams beforehand for neatness.

Insides are all serged

And of course, my label <3

It does indeed feel like 'I'm wearing 4 yards of fabric as a top', but not like it's too much. It's weird. I think it definitely has to be styled with slim fitting bottoms. Maybe someone with mile-long legs could pull off a wider leg with it. I'm too short for that!

I think it's a fun top for fall and 'for play' and love that I made it in this subtle stripe.

Because giant bows are awesome

All in all, I feel quite fabulous in this top!!!

 

My daughter saw the in-progress pic, made a fake-cry face, and asked if she can PLEEEEASEEEEE have one in a mustard color. So we shall see. :)