Friday, May 11, 2018

True Bias Ogden Cami

So by now you know I highly prefer Big4 and Burda patterns. I always clarify that I'm not anti-Indie; but I am one of those people who find the vast majority of them to be too basic to command the premium price tag (yes, I know we're spoiled by the cheap-o sales in the U.S.). I don't fit into a unique (for sewing patterns) demographic (plus/petite/pear/apple/etc)...and FAR too many are created by bloggers/hobby sewers turned "pattern designers" and they just don't look that good! So I'm very rarely overly excited to shell out or sew Indie patterns in general. Yes, I also know that that is a very broad brush...I wish Alexandra at In-House patterns had a larger catalog. I own all of the patterns I'm interested in because they are AWESOME!!!!!

There's not much else in True Bias' catalog that ever caught my interest but this cami did! I went bak and forth and back and forth and just couldn't jump. I searched Burda for something similar (as I always do!). I sewed S1366 but that was just okay.

I highly recommend this pattern!!

At Sew Camp, LaQuana broke out her black Ogden and SEVERAL of us tried it on and loved it :) Even though it wasn't my size, I really liked it on her and on me and knew I had to finally give it a shot.

I traced a size 14 even though the size chart indicated the 12 should work. After sewing the floral version and needing to take it in, the 12 was in fact the right size.

I did a 3/4" FBA and left the dart created. I shortened the straps about an 1.5". For the lining, I overlaid the piece over the FBA'd front and retraced the armhole/side seam.

I had a *little* extra fabric around the armhole

On the black/white version I took it down to a size 12 and added back 3/4" to the strap. I need to add another 1/2" back. 

much better...

I realized I didn't care for the flare in front and removed 3/4" from the hemline on the front only, tapering to nothing at about waist level (I just eyeballed).

The black and white version tucks in much better with that extra swinginess removed.

The overall fit on this version is so much better, but I need one more tweak. I have to add back that 3/8" I removed in sizing down to the back above the waist. It's a bit snug in the upper back.

Snug across the back here, pulling at the center back...

Whereas this looked pretty good

I think I'm ready to cut into my silk!! I'm not sure if it'll make into my May makes but we'll see. You never know :)

I'll likely get a little sewing done this upcoming weekend...hopefully I'll finish my Burda 1/2018 skirt and my mom's gift (late, late, late). I also hope to get the trench coat traced off this weekend, fingers crossed. I've been wearing my RTW version and it doesn't actually fit.

Have a wonderful Mother's Day! If you have lost your mom, or have longed to be a mom, my deepest condolences.

May you be comforted in your loss or in your longing. May your eyes be opened to those you have “mothered” through your love and care and nurturing, whether children have filled your home or not. And may you be filled with sweet memories of the special women in your own life who are as mothers to you, even if your own is gone.
Mothers and mother figures everywhere are deserving of our honor. You are appreciated… and I sincerely hope there’s someone in your life to help you know it.


  1. I see why you love the Ogden cami; it's versatile and can be worn casually or more formally.

    Thank you for the note at the end about losing/longing to be a mother. I fit in both camps and May and June (lost dad) can be difficult. Happy Mother's Day to you. *hug*

  2. You tweaked this fit to perfection and now have a serious TNT classic for all your efforts. Thanks for the beautiful thoughts on mothering. I miss mine so much.

  3. Happy Mother's Day to you too! I love the Ogden Cami, so glad you got your perfect fit.

  4. What a beautiful tribute to Mother's Day at the end of your post. Happy Mother's Day to you too! I laughed and was delighted with your review of the Ogden. I resisted too - I'm PDF averse anyway - but when Kelli released it in print format I couldn't resist any more and bought the pattern. And YES I LOVE it. No exaggeration on this pattern- it's a total winner. I made one up in rayon to start, then a lovely and rather spendy cotton I've had around a while and finally YES SILK :) Also I've been taking classes with Alexandra Morgan here in Victoria - she is an amazing and gifted teacher. I highly recommend her youtube channel for great video instruction on all sorts of issues related to fit. Thank you for putting all the work you did into this post. I enjoyed it thoroughly!

  5. I think you nailed it!! The Ogden Cami just looks so good on you! I look forward to the silk version.

  6. I actually do have a Burda cami pattern that's very similar to the Ogden... But it's from a magazine from 1979. Patrones, a Spanish magazine, also published several camis last summer. The Odgen looks simple and cute but it requires too many tweaks to my liking.
    And thanks for your sweet note at the end. I fit into both camps as well. I long to be a mother and lost my mom and dad not long ago. That's life, right?

  7. Happy Mothers day to you too.
    Love your new Cami's.. A really cute pattern

  8. This is one indie pattern I like - after also trying on a friends version, and being surprised at how much I like it on! Yours look lovely too - I'm looking forward to seeing your silk version :)

  9. Both your versions look amazing! I really like the fabrics you’ve used.

  10. I decided to sew the Ogden, so I've been hunting around for info on it. Def going to re-read this post once I actually get to work on it!

    And thanks for the special wishes for non-moms and non-mom-havers. Hope you had an enjoyable is-mom and and mom-having Mother's Day :)

  11. I love your cami!! I also have a difficult time shelling out for indie patterns when you can get most Big 4 patterns for $1 in the States.

    Thank you for your sweet note about those who are having a rough go of Mother's Day. I just lost my mom two months ago which drastically redefined what Mother's Day is to me. <3

  12. Have you looked at Silhouette Patterns designed by Peggy Sagers, a real pattern maker? Here is the media page from the website. On this page are all the webcasts to date. The first 15 minutes is question and answer and the rest is instruction and information. Note the link to Peggy's pattern catalog. There are also many videos on YouTube. I have a great many of her patterns. #600 is the classic blouse and #195 is the sweater set. Peggy spends a great deal of time teaching sewists how to modify her patterns into many interesting styles.


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