McCall's 8028 & Burda 4/2019

First - It's Me Made May! I know plenty of people hate it (that's okay!)...I know plenty of people misunderstand it (it isn't about posting photos daily or sewing a bunch of stuff to have for May)...

This May is different of course with many around the world sheltering-in-place, but I always welcome it from the perspective of finding new sewers to follow and this year, not seeing masks over and over and over throughout my feed. I am obviously not begrudging anyone who is making masks, selling masks, donating masks - it has just completely overtaken Instagram. And just as I don't want to watch Coronavirus news nonstop, I don't want to see masks in my timeline nonstop. No shade to anyone, always DO YOU!

First week down! Most days, I work in the a.m. (in loungewear), take a break to exercise, shower, and eat, then work some more. Some days, I never make it out of my pjs :)

Not in order by day :-p

Burda 1/2018 hoodie and M7061 pants * S8424 leggings * V1401 pants * M6886 dress

M6654 skirt * Burda 12/2016 pants * M6886/M6964 hybrid tee and V1411 pants

I posted to Instagram last week about my recent struggles with endometriosis. It has been so tough! and painful!! And I have this insane bloat every month.

So while I was prepared to get pics of a bunch of stuff, I just...can't right now! Blergh. Tired. Bloated. In pain. But I am so backed up on project posts that we're gonna just settle for good enough. K? Great! :-D

Now, I happen to like jumpsuits! I will say, they need to be knit or have a closure. Ain't nobody got time to be wrangling in and out of a woven jumpsuit without closure.

I missed this jumpsuit upon release and was excited by it when buying some newer patterns. I'll say, it isn't innovative. Now that I have some experience with understanding more how patterns are made, this is something I COULD HAVE made from an existing pattern. The bodice and sleeve are basically chopped off across the top, halfway down the armhole!

I knew I wanted a jumpsuit from this fabric I snagged from Fabric Mart awhile back. I wish I'd bought several yards of every color they had (I made THIS sweatshirt from the cut I had in white)! It is a really nice fabric - poly/rayon/lycra blend french terry. It washes, cuts, sews and presses well. It's 2-layered and the distressed fabric sits on top of a base fabric so nothing is exposed. Can't ask for more! I only had 2 yards of it so I couldn't afford to fussy cut and luckily, I didn't end up with the distressed holes over any parts. LOL!

In s/m/l patterns I usually take a Medium top and Large bottom. I wanted a snug fitting garment and cut a medium top, and on bottom, cut a medium front and large back. On the back bodice, I graded about halfway between the medium and large lines at the waist. This pattern had that lazy grading, each size was 1" bigger at the side seam than the previous size.

I added a 1" wedge to the back rise and shifted the upper back based on a suggestion from Alexandra of In-House patterns (her tutorials and fit lessons are ACE!). Now, these are 1) a knit and 2) snug fitting so I will be curious to apply this to a woven pant. While I still have some wrinkles (that look to me as those caused by inner thigh fullness), I don't have that drag in the back thigh area that I often have. I was curious about an adjustment like this - "changing the balance" is how I verbalized it and then she posted the adjustment after I sent her a pic of my wrinkles.

Once I had it sewn up, I didn't like how baggy the legs were. Just beyond the crotch (so left the waist and butt/hip the same), I took them in another 1/4" on inseam and side seam so I removed a total of 2".

After these pics, I took in the elastic a bit, removing about 2"

I also hated the pant cuff. It was HUGE. Wide around the ankle and too "tall". I removed some height and ended up cutting it off, taking another inch off, then reattaching to the legs with a 1/4" seam. I'll have to measure it to see how to adjust the pattern piece.

Normally, I would decrease front crotch length but jumpsuits are often not cut generously enough through the crotch. Some extra room is needed and while I'm glad I left the front as is, it could use a tiny bit of an adjustment. The back could use another inch. I'd also add a tad more length to the bodice to have some blousing.

The elastic around the bodice works well, it fits well and stays upright without being tight. My sleeve didn't "flutter" but that's probably partly due to the fabric weight and partly due to not making adjustments. While my biceps can technically fit, by not doing my bicep adjustment, I lose the "intended fit" of the sleeve.

Lastly, I *knew* better and still cut the pocket bags from the distressed fabric. I should have flipped them to the smooth side at least; I keep snagging my fingers when I put my hands in my pocket. Doh.

Fun make, nice and quick (a much needed break after several more involved projects), and is a solid contribution to one of my 2020 modified Make 9 boxes. YAY!

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I have been ON A ROLL with Burda magazine patterns! This top is from the April 2019 issue - imo the best of last year. I've already sewn 4 garments from that issue (this one, a black jacket that's done and awaiting photos, this dress, this skirt) and there's more stuff I want!

This top is a simple make - front, back, sleeve, bias bound neckline, hem, done! It doesn't look like much hanging or on the dress form but it drapes *just so* and has that easy-wearing feel that I'm digging right now.

I cut a size 40 neckline and shoulder and 42 for the rest. I did not do a bicep adjustment - doh! I ALWAYS need a bicep adjustment. I have some drag lines and it is a little snug through the upper arm.

I used a white rayon challis that has been in the stash forever. At one point I swore off solid color challis. It seems so much more shifty than prints! My sleeve band must not have been fully on grain. Bleh. It made BEAUTIFUL, perfect, awesome bias binding though!

One reason I really love my Burdas is that I can add my own seam allowance. On a top like this, using 3/8" on the neckline and sleeve bands is so much more preferable than 5/8". On fitted garments I almost always use 5/8" just to have that little bit of insurance.

Since the top is white, it's pretty versatile, but the shape makes it versatile too! It's cute with slim fitting bottoms and those with more volume. I think I'll end up wearing this guy out!

Currently, I'm working on a 'hacked' TB Ogden cami and have fabrics lined up for a few new tops (all with patterns I've made before). I have to shift some stuff until I'm able to do fitting. But still plan to make the SA Clare pants and a couple dresses this month. Stay tuned!

And stay safe!