Burda 7/2019 #101

This tee was the final item in my little Endless Combination 4-piece wardrobe.

I went right up against the deadline (July was a busy month) and I knew I needed something simple and had a couple items that I'd made before that I considered. And in the end, Burda is Burda! Consistent drafting so I know just what I'm getting.

I used this metallic jersey for my Sirocco jumpsuit I made last summer. I had some really large pieces left over because I wanted a "fun tee" eventually. So this was a great amalgamation of pattern and fabric and plans!

I traced the pattern in a size 40 for the front, and for the back neckline and shoulder. Then I graded out to a 42 in the back.

**This is a newly discovered fit "issue" post-reduction. Before, I would sew a size 40 with FBA or sometimes I'd grade up to a 42 through the body. My back is pretty broad but it isn't just the area where one normally makes a "broad back adjustment". The area above my armscye in back is broad AND has become a bit fleshier (hahaha!) over the years. This combo of sizing has been working well and I've done it on a few items.**

My norm for most Burda garments aside from pants and some dresses, is to not add hem allowance. Yes, it would be more accurate to shorten the top at the waist but often, it's fine as-is.

The front and back are cut single layer and on the left side, with the tie, the seam is forward instead of at the shoulder.

The pattern instructs you to sew it up then turn and stitch the neckline and armholes. This is very tough to do well with a 5/8" seam allowance, especially on the tight curve of the armhole.

My changes:
1) I only used 3/8" allowance
2) Sewed the "regular" shoulder, turned in the neckline hem allowance and coverstitched it flat. The seam gets hidden by the tie so it still looks great!
3) Turned in the armhole hem allowance and coverstitched it then sewed up the side seams

It's still really neat and if you look closely, you can see my zigzag stitch to hold down the seam allowance.

There's not much more to it! Aside from sewing the seam on the tie, I constructed this on serger and coverstitch so it was fast too! I hand tacked the band around the perimeter, attaching it to the shirt.

I really love it!

I also sewed a stack of Jalie Clara leggings for my daughter. I used a size S based on her normal waist and hip measurement with the V length. 

They each took about an hour (the shorts a little less) but by the time I was done, I never wanted to see the pattern again! LOL!!

It is a wonderful pattern with the lack of front seam and the gusset and I will make a pair for myself eventually. 

After 12 attempts (literally), I finally understood how to construct the button band. Woohoo! So this little cardigan is now legitimately almost done. One final block (because I have some gathering from attaching the band), and some cute buttons. WHEW!

After attempt #8 or so (LOL!) I made a hat, because I needed a win.

Somehow we're almost halfway through August. I can't even. The only thing I've sewn this month is a second pair of S8389 shorts in linen. I'm trying to get motivated!