January Wrap-up and February Plans

This month was an interesting one...I sewed a total of 8.25 yards and 6 items. The interesting part?

I only sewed Burda magazine patterns this month. This was not intentional! Just...getting good use of my sub I suppose! :)

• Burda 1/2021 top - 1.25 yards (reviewed here)
• floral crepe ITY knit from FabricMart (stash)

• Burda 1/2021 cardigan/jacket - 2 yards (for my daughter, reviewed here)
• Cream/light tan cotton boucle from SR Harris
• D-rings, twill tape, sew-in snap

• Burda 1/2021 cardigan jacket - 2.25 yards (for me!)
• striped cotton blend boucle from FabricMart (stash)
• D-rings, twill tape, sew-in snap

• Burda 1/2018 hoodie - 2 yards
• black polka-dot sweatshirt knit from FabricMart (stash)
• zipper, eyelets, bias tape, cord stops

• Burda 6/2014 jumper - 0.75 yards (baby)
• denim blue jersey knit from Fashion Fabrics Club (stash)
• Cricut iron-on, zipper

• Burda 6/2014 jumper - 0.75 yards (baby)
• Black & olive cotton lycra knit (considered scraps so not counted in fabric total)
• Cricut iron-on, zipper

Favorite: Whew. This is tough. It was a SUPER successful month. If I had to choose an absolute favorite, I'd say the hoodie. I've wanted another (sewed this pattern before, here and here) and it has come together so well --save me managing to not have a 22" separating zipper on hand, buying a Coates & Clark (meh) one from JA and it turns out it was NOT separating,  unpicking it, and then waiting on a new one from Wawak. 

FAILS: None! Woohoo! Unless I want to hold that flub above with the zipper against myself :-p

Accomplishments: I think that I sewed simple projects this month, but infused some life into them. I really love how everything turned out. AND, 5 of the 6 were from stash fabrics/scraps. Can't beat that!

I think I wore my Burda cardigan the day after finishing it! :)

This hoodie is SO epic! 

Literally love everything about it. I'll get the zipper inserted this weekend.

One of the jumpers as a WIP :-D

This month, I purchased 8 yards of fabric:

• 1.5 yards of a Japanese striped knit from Marcy Tilton. I was inspired by Renee of Miss Celie's Pants and her awesome travel wardrobe. I have heard good things about the fabric at M.T., but never ordered. I placed my order on Saturday, January 16th and it didn't ship until the 30th. I wasn't too pleased with that and if Covid is affecting their output to that extent, it may be awhile before I order again. Not saying I don't understand or ragging on the company - *I* don't expect to wait ~3 weeks for a fabric order. 
• 2 yards of a printed cotton woven from Fabric Mart for my travel bags
• 2.5 yards of (amazing!) Brooks Brothers shirting from SR Harris for a birthday shirt for my son-in-law and a matching one for baby.
• 2 yards of boucle woven that was used for my daughter's Burda jacket

None of this fabric will be stashed - woot!

I purchased 5 patterns and 2 Ottobre kids magazines.

• Ottobre really is the best bet for kids patterns.  I paid $28 with the shipping and exchange rate (WEAK US DOLLAR ALERT!) but for $14 each, sooooo worth it. There's some good stuff in these 2 issues, especially for a California baby (hello bucket hat!). 

• I also purchased a tee/bodysuit pattern from Brindille and Twig. I've heard good things but at $7.50+ per pattern, Ottobre is hands down the better option. And now, Bert and other babies that I've made gifts for have worn the garments, and I have a better idea of their sizing. 
• I purchased 3 New Look patterns (I'm a fan of their patterns, the sizing/fit, and the price!)

I also purchased McCall's 6016 for baby as I've seen a ton of great versions and I must've purged that baby shirt pattern that I had in stash (grrrrr!)

I had a machine knitting lesson this month where I focused on learning to use the electronics of my machine - part of the issue is that I have what is technically a KH910 but the board is a KH950. So it has the capabilities of the 950, which isn't in the 910 manual...but it looks like a 910 so the 950 manual wasn't "right". I now know how to use the 950 and 910 manuals together, but there are still things I have to do manually e.g., in the fair isle swatch below, I have to keep track of how many rows to knit before changing colors where as the 950 notifies you of color changes. 

I  feel confident enough to try out a project. For now, I'm thinking something with a bit of fair isle near the hem because I still have to learn how to do decreases while working in a pattern.

A hot tip I posted on IG today:

The phone (in my case iPhone) camera, zoomed in, is an excellent resource for checking needle details!

My January plans from my last post:

finish my cardigan - DONE

knit a cowl for my mom - DONE

make some golf club covers for my brother -   Muslined. He had to cancel our fabric store trip so we're going today. 

make a hoodie - DONE (okay, fine, needs its zipper)

My February plans:

Sew M6044 for SIL

Sew M6016 for baby

Sew the golf club covers

Muslin Thread Theory Fulford jeans for my husband 

Make a pair of plaid, pleated trousers. I'm not sure on pattern yet but I know I did NOT like M7726. Maybe I'll give M7982 a go (previously muslined, never sewed them up). 

Until later!

Burda 1/2021 #117

Sometimes, simple is best! 

This pattern is from the Burda 1/2021 issue and it is a very basic garment, but that just means it is waiting for some special treatment!

This sweater knit was picked up December 2018 when my husband took me to SR Harris for a mini shopping spree for Christmas. I don't remember the composition but it feels incredible. It's drapey without being clingy, it's a color that I've been interested in, didn't care for much as a solid, but love this somewhat marled version, and it's warm and cozy. 

I was going to make a dress for it at one point but am glad I held out. It's perfect for this sweater!

As a complete Burda stan, I generally know how to handle sizing just based on the type of pattern and looking at the pattern piece illustrations. 

I cut a 40 neckline and 42 body. added 1" to the back hip and did a cheater 1/2" swayback adjustment. I did a 3/8" forward shoulder adjustment and a 3/4" bicep adjustment.

Lastly, because Burda thinks everyone is Amazonian, I did not add any hem allowances to the body or sleeves! And I'm 5'5" (and a half!)

As you can see below, this adjustment in back without a center back seam doesn't (can't?) fully eliminate pooling but *for me*, it's a much more acceptable amount. 

I adore the full sleeves! The drape of the fabric really helps. I believe the magazine calls for a slightly heftier knit as well (e.g., this isn't so much for lightweight, slinky rayon jerseys). I believe I used 3/8" elastic in the sleeves. 

I don't typically like turn and stitch necklines but it works with this pattern (the neckline is pretty straight in back and while curved in front, it isn't too extreme. I stitched one shoulder seam, serged the neckline, and stitched the other seam (I'm not a fan of finishing necklines flat unless it's kids' clothes or perhaps loungewear). Then I serged the neckline, turned in and topstitched. 

Otherwise, I am nearly done with my version of the Burda cardigan I made for my daughter (most recent blog post). I "just" need to cut out and interface the facings, stitch, trim, understitch, topstitch, and hem :-p

I didn't sew much this weekend, I was all knitting! I found a machine knitter in Rochester, NY that gives private lessons and I learned 2 very valuable things! So I'll be practicing more on my standard gauge but also, I've been getting to know my mid gauge. I picked some Blue Sky Woolstok from my LYS and knitted up this cowl. I kept touching it Monday to see if it was dry because I was SO excited about it! :-p

For the rest of January I plan to:

finish my cardigan

knit a cowl for my mom

make some golf club covers for my brother

make a hoodie (I need a 2nd one because I get really sad when mine is in the laundry!)

There are lots of things I want to sew but I need to be a little(teeny) bit more practical. I love skirts and dresses but it's just too cold (it's 15 today!) and I know I'm not going to wear tights in the house. For whatever reason, that feels a bridge too far. LOL!

I am making my transition to middle age apparently. While I haven't gained any additional weight (I got a quick Covid +10 but that's held steady), everything just feels tight on my belly now! wahhhhh!! I would like several more pair of pull-on pants and need to raid the pattern and fabric stash to decide. 

More later!

Burda 1/2021 #120

Yep...Another Burda 1/2021 garment - this time for my daughter. 

When I posted this cardigan/wrap as a 'must sew', my daughter asked me to make her one. She wanted fabric similar to the photo in the mag (sort of tweedy) but I couldn't find anything similar. This cotton boucle from SR Harris was a great bargain - it's a fantastic fabric from their designer section - and the fact that it's cotton made it a wonderful project to sew. It is a bit on the thicker side for this project but again, it was completely malleable as a soft, cotton fiber. 

My daughter is tall and thin with broad shoulders/back. She's several inches taller than I am but our back length is nearly identical. I do have to add quite a bit of length to sleeves and pants for her...and often times, a broad back adjustment. 

Since this is a looser fitting garment, I just cut a size 38 back and 36 front (with 38 shoulder). I added 2" to the sleeve - 1" above the elbow and 1" below. 

I did NOT enjoy tying off all these darts! 14 total!!!

This was actually a really quick sew - even with all of the adjustments and such, I started it on the evening of the 6th, didn't even work on it constantly, and had it boxed up and ready to ship on Sunday afternoon. 

THESE SLEEVES!

I really like the shape of the sleeves. My darts don't line up perfectly - shhhhhh! When I sew for my daughter, I am not apologetic about cutting corners/taking shortcuts. She's ALWAYS grateful but she's still a 20 something and I know she cannot fully appreciate the labor! 

The instructions call for Petersham for the D-ring side and had it not been for this nice, pliable fabric, that tab for the rings would have been a mess. I ended up layering the seams, pinking the tab ends, and pressing the mess out of it and it isn't too bulky at that section, thankfully. 

For the inside, they have you sew a snap to the petersham and the left front. I used some cute twill tape that I picked up from Craft South when I was in Nashville. 

My corners aren't sharp but - it's fine!

The twill tape and snap are so handy and I love the tag added here on the facing!

I did use some knit stay tape around the front and neckline edge early and topstitched the facing close to the edge. This will definitely be hitting the washer and dryer if i know my kid and I didn't want any potential raw bits with this ravel-ly fabric. 

Mine is up next! And maybe I'll have some pics of her in hers next time.

I kept trying it on but the finished hip here is *much* smaller than my hips so I didn't take any pics in it :-p

In other news, I bought another knitting machine! It's a mid-gauge Brother KX350. It's a plastic bed so benefits are - it's so lightweight! I can use sport weight to worsted on this machine (my standard gauge can use what would be considered lace weight to fingering weight and maaaaaybe sometimes some sport weight). 

The general mechanics are the same but it's a different beast from the metal bed standard gauge. 

Because I can't handknit anymore, I don't have much worsted weight yarn on hand. I'll have to grab a few balls and try a couple of easy projects like a new wrap for working (working from home still but it'll be cold for quite awhile longer here in the tundra!), or a scarf.

I'm a little over a month into my new job and I am SO happy that I made the move! Listen to yourself! Yourself is probably right :-p

We're working from home for the foreseeable future but once Covid is more controlled, I'll be working 2-3 days a week in the office. It's a beautiful location in downtown St. Paul (which is truly gorgeous and architectural and interesting!) (but not fun to drive around, lol!). 

I found some decently fitted, decently made blazers at Ann Taylor last month and am just energized all over again to create a couple of jackets. 

These striped pants are my favorite. I got them from LOFT some time ago. I was SMITTEN with them immediately and the guy that worked there tried to talk me out of them because they're vertical stripes. Dude, I don't follow the rules! :-p 

This one "fits" but, hello biceps! 

I'm not sure I could wear much more than a slim fitting tee underneath.

I have Martin Luther King Jr. Day off (probably the first time this has been a regularly scheduled holiday for me since I worked for the state of MN 15 years ago!) so I will be relaxing and sewing and/or knitting. 

Burda 1/2021 #116

Because there's so much time to fawn over the Burda issue before it shows up in my mailbox, I often end up with a MUST MAKE NOW garment or two. This top? Yep. I knew I was going to sew this asap. It is SO my style! 

It's a simple silhouette - darted front, one piece back cut on the fold, with a slit front and a rectangle for a collar. It doesn't take much fabric but I was trying to make it work with a panel that was 1 yard (and I had a remnant piece from the other top I made from this fabric), it's a stashed piece, from Fabric Mart. 

I overlooked that the collar piece was cut on the fold and was SO confused as to how it would make a knot. Then, I read the instructions and realized the loop is a separate piece (not attached to anything) and went, :shrug: 

After cutting everything out, DOH! But somehow, some way, I found a piece that allowed for a mirror image to be cut - score!

From my IG stories

I cut my normal Burda size combo:

Front: Size 40 neckline, shoulder, armhole (I used to grade to a 42 here but that makes weird folds in the front) and then graded out to a 42 for the body.

Back: Size 40 neckline, shoulder, graded out to a 42 for the armhole and body. 

Because it's a knit, I can get away with that (armholes not matching) but on a woven, I'd cut the 40 and do an adjustment for the back for that extra fleshy bit back there (you know what I'm talking about!). I made the following adjustments:

1) When Burda does fitted, they do fitted. I straightened out the side seams a bit while grading the front from a 40 bust to 42 for the waist and hip. 

2) I did a 3/8" forward shoulder adjustment

3) I added 1" to the back (so 2" total) but then I did a 1/2" swayback (works *ok* when there's a fold) and trimmed the extra 1/4" off the center back side (so removed 1/2" there, making my overall addition in back 1.5"). 

4) I added 1/2" to the front at the hip for 1" and my overall total to the hip being 2.5. Sometimes I grade the hip out to a 44 and make a smaller adjustment but also, there is technically more room needed in back than in front so, put the fabric where it needs to be.

5) Not shown, I added 1.5" to the bicep. The size 42 was like 13"!!! Sheesh! 

I decided to wear this today for work while also telling myself I could get pics of it. And then I remembered right at 5:00. So the color is off on all but the mirror selfies. It's such a vibrant print!! 

Because I was using bits of fabric, I ended up centering the black space between the panels on my sleeve. I liked it more in my head than in reality but, it's fine. 

As you can see, the back fits a bit better than it would have had I not shortened the back length. 

Lastly, The loop is a loose (I sewed it by hand) and just holds the two end pieces together. 

Also from IG - look at my beautiful BabyLock stitches!

The slit is finished with a facing. I used a tricot, traced the stitching lines onto the interfacing, trimmed the sides and snipped to the point...it sits very nicely!!

Another hot tip if you're newer to adding seam allowances to patterns - after tracing off the facing, match it to your neckline piece. Sometimes, with curved edges or really angled ones, it's easy to go off a bit when drawing in those lines. 

It's REALLY cute with the ties left hanging too!!

The loop up close.

And that faint white mark on my sleeve is the wax marker from me marking the center, LOL! 

It'll come off with heat!

I think the loop is more trouble than it's worth (I don't remember the dimensions they suggested but I definitely made mine slightly bigger width and smaller in circumference) and I'd just lengthen the ties next time. I have a black & white polka-dot lightweight ponte that I'm considering for version 2.  

This issue is really, really awesome.  More to come!!

2021 Goals and Plans

For whatever reason, I can't get myself to commit to an actual "Make 9" plan but last year, I liked my little box o' 9 goals (even though I only achieved 1.5 of them) and when I wrote out my main plans for this year, it was 9 things! Hmm. I still won't call it a Make 9 plan because it isn't 9 garments, it's moreso 9 goals (again!).

• I guess I don't need a trench coat but my old is dead and I really, really want one. I have the fabric, lining, and notions for it already!

• I have accepted that I just love toppers. Cardigans, blazers, other jackets...and since I'm not having to like, store garments in the linen closet or anything...I won't beat myself up over having "too many". So I have 2 for SURE that I want to make. Burda 2/2020 (in a red/white herringbone wool suiting) and 6/2019 (in an irregular striped cotton boucle)

• I thought I wanted to make bras then was quickly disillusioned by the expense (I mean, $50 for a kit AND I have to sew it!!?!). Then I decided I was going to try it anyway. Then I realized I didn't like any of the patterns all that much. Then I had my reduction surgery and figured I'd just live in bralettes. Here's the thing about reductions (without any other reconstruction or implants) - you have less tissue but essentially, the same boobs! So the bra that has the right underwire and fits in the band doesn't fit well in the cups (so-called sister sizing has never worked for me. I cannot trade off band/cup size). A 36C is a little too snug around the body (I've started using an extender adding just 1 set of "loops") and the wire digs. But a 38C is too big period. A 38B definitely has wires that are too small, and on and on. And I have shallow breasts that are fuller on bottom (demi or balconette works best). So I have to do some research. And I have lots of supplies that were scored for cheap (Surge Fabrics!!) so I won't feel so bad about the experimental phase. 

• Still aiming to sew some of the silk stash. No specific projects right now, Just get at least 2 pieces sewn this year. 

• At least 1 machine knit garment per quarter. I am an adventurer and I like learning new things. But whew! Machine knitting has a steep learning curve when you start talking about actual garments. I am very excited though and a commitment to just do it will help. 

I had dropped a stitch on my sweater's neckline and didn't know how to fix it. (thank you Renee! I got it done!). Then I excitedly sewed up the last raglan seam and started seaming the side seams. And in my infinite wisdom (or impatience), I went to do my usual trying on and holding sides and contorting and...OMG I CAN'T GET IT OVER MY HEAD! Doh!

But the beginner machine knitting group and others on IG reminded me that I can do a cut and sew neckline and salvage it. YAY! This method is often used when you don't want to bother with neckline shaping (it's tedious and prone to error!). So I'm going to give it a shot because, what's the worst that can happen!? I'll be unable to not wear it more? Hahahahaha!

machineknittingetc.com (nayy) has lots of old knitting magazines free to download. Okay, there's some kookie 80s stuff but so many of these silhouettes are a) still awesome or b) back in style. Here are a few that I got excited about. 

So my commitment isn't to any specific item aside from the fact that it has to be a fully completed garment (not a scarf or hat or blanket). 

• Okay, so maybe it's odd that I'm adding travel bags when...Covid...but it's something I've wanted for *ever* and, why not? It's not like they'll go bad while they're sitting in my suitcase waiting to be used. I want to sew a laundry bag, a jewelry bag/pouch, and 5 shoe bags (2 for flats/sandals, 2 for heels/bulkier shoes, 1 for sneakers). Yeah, I know, but I often take 3-5 pair of shoes on ANY trip. It's a thing. I haven't decided if I'm going to go super basic or what. I may also find an awesome print - or - a plain cotton and decorate the bags with the Cricut. We'll see!!

example from West Elm 

• A blazer for my husband. I was going to bite the bullet and pay $69 for the velvet needle board from Mood then *poof*, it was gone, and says it isn't reordable. WAH! The fabric for his blazer is a mid-wale corduroy in a nice, cool blue. I'm excited, I think I'm just nervous it won't turn out. 

• I also want to sew jeans for him! He already has a tough time buying them, and then the current style is usually for a slimmer fit than he'd like. 

• A quilt for Bert. I did knit a blanket for him and they use it all the time <3 but I want to make him his very own, special blankie. Maybe add some texture. If they didn't live in a tiny LA apartment, I'd be sewing up a storm for him!!!

Other, general sewing goals include:

• MORE Burda! I sewed 19 or 20 Burda garments last year and yes, most were from prior years (only 4 were from 2020 issues and 1 from 2021-- I've already sewn 2 patterns from the January 2021 issue y'all!), I have so many patterns marked off as wanting to sew and they work well in general (I do need to figure out the sleeve fit for me on woven garments). 

• Continue to limit pattern purchases (which goes hand in hand with the above). I had a goal of $50 on patterns for 2020 and spent just under $55 and purchased 25 patterns. 

• Continue to focus on sewing from stash. 70% of my garments made in 2020 were from stash fabrics. That's pretty good! But I still purchased a lot. I want to get that ratio to 50% or better of in vs. out.

• Complete the machine knitting classes I've purchased (knitleader, sock knitting, using the garter bar,  and intarsia). 

Personal, life goals include: 

• Practice stress reduction

I'm a homebody and have felt fairly fine throughout quarantine. On advice of my therapist, I need to go outside daily--even if it's just for a 3-minute walk. I also need to practice mindfulness and am implementing some routines to help with that. I'm on day 3 of yoga practice and have a nighttime (attempt!) meditation routine (my brain never shuts up!).

• Clean up my diet for relief from inflammation/pain. I swear to goodness, my body said, "40? are we 40?!?! We're 40 now?!!!!! TIME TO GO HAYWIRE!!!!!" Haha! I did an elimination diet for a couple weeks and WOW, I felt so much better with no dairy and very little gluten. So, I suppose this is what responsible adults do, or whatever. :-p

• Read more. In 2019 I surpassed my reading goal and forgot to track for 2020. I went to the bookstore (IN REAL LIFE!) and they were having a sale so I have lots of new reads. I'm going to aim for 24 this year. 

I hope that this year is ALL that you wish for and MORE! 

Next up on my sewing table is this topper from (dun-da-dah!) Burda 1/2021. I'm making one for my daughter and for me! This should be fun!!

2020 Wrap-Up

I won't wax philosophical on the dumpster fire that is 2020. And true to form, the final day of the year turned out to be a bear. Sigh.

Onward.

• This year, I sewed a total of 132.5 yards and purchased 105.5 yards. Geez! Those yards add up quickly! 
• Of that 132.5 yards sewn, 93.75 (70.7%) was sewn from stash (older than 6 months). YAY! Now, my in/out ratio isn't great, but I did sew more than I purchased so, WIN.
• This year, I sewed a total of 84 items and 54 (64%) were sewn from stashed fabrics. 

Of the 84 garments sewn, I had:

• 10 wadders/UFOs (I don't have any requirements for myself that I sew up my UFOs. Some things are identified as wadders and discarded easily. Others, I'm unsure about and they may become wearable, but I don't revisit old projects often, it just isn't critical to me. Just keep sewing!) 
• Aside from 1 garment, all of my wadders were due to fabric. The 10th was a Burda dress that was a combo: the fabric wasn't right for the pattern but something was really off for me with the raglan sleeve fit.
• 10 garments for my daughter She found out she was expecting late January so it was mostly Jalie Clara knit pants and some tops for nursing. I also made her baby shower outfit <3
• 5 baby items

That leaves 59 items for meeeeeee!

• 29 tops (always my largest category, LOL!)
• 15 dresses (REALLY!?)
• 5 loungewear items
• 3 skirts
• 2 pants
• 2 shorts
• 1 jumpsuit
• 1 cardigan
• 1 jacket

Photo break!

Burda 11/2018 * McCall's 6796 * Ottobre baby sweater * McCall's 6886 * McCall's 7976 *

Butterick 5760 (skirt) * New Look 6150 * Simplicity 2245 * Simplicity 2246

True Bias Ogden hack * Ottobre baby gear! * McCall's 6886 * Burda 3/2011 * Burda 11/2019 * 

More Ottobre baby gear! (5 babies were born in our family this year) * twist front of McCall's 7975

Of the 84 garments sewn (which includes the wadders and garments made for others (I didn't separate out)

• I sewed about a 60/40 split of knits and wovens 
• Primary woven fabrics were rayon challis, cotton sateen, cotton twill
• Primary knit fabrics were jersey (rayon, poly blends, cotton, wool)
• I sewed from 11 pattern companies. As you can see, only 3 "Indies". I'm just not into the vast majority that I see, and often times I try and it's a pattern fail, so I stick to Burda and Big4. And yes, Jalie is an Indie! 
• 1 Burda envelope
• 1 Jalie
• 1 Kommatia (now Studio Calicot)
• 1 True Bias
• 3 Vogue
• 4 New Look
• 5 Ottobre
• 6 Butterick
• 14 Simplicity
• 19 McCall's
• 19 Burda Magazine

Y'all know how I feel about my Burdas! 5 of the 12 "wins" in my last post were from Burda. I got my January 2021 issue and already have a completed garment from it (and 2 more traced). Ahhhhh. 

I promise, if you're on the fence, go for it. It isn't so onerous once you've done it a couple times. 

This top is done now but at this point, it was awaiting side seams, neckline finishing, hemming...but the shape is SO perfect and the sweater knit is *chef's kiss* with this pattern! 

And lastly, I never reviewed my dress from Vogue 1674 that I made it to wear to an engagement party. I had one in progress, things went bad, I tossed it but recovered...but not in time for the party. I ended up wearing a RTW dress. 

I swiped these from my IG stories archive

2/13 8:28 p.m.: Excitement! This is going to be so cute!!!

2/15 9:36 a.m.: After I'd gone round and round with following the instructions for the lining

2/15 10:56 a.m.: After I'd literally ripped it apart and threw it in the trash 

2/15 4:53 p.m.: Ahhhhh. But it still needed sleeves and a hem and we had to leave at 6 p.m. 

The saga! :-p

I still never got styled pics because, Covid. But I can't wait to have a reason to wear it! It's a great party dress!

Happy New Year to all!