Wednesday, January 13, 2021

Burda 1/2021 #120

Yep...Another Burda 1/2021 garment - this time for my daughter. 

When I posted this cardigan/wrap as a 'must sew', my daughter asked me to make her one. She wanted fabric similar to the photo in the mag (sort of tweedy) but I couldn't find anything similar. This cotton boucle from SR Harris was a great bargain - it's a fantastic fabric from their designer section - and the fact that it's cotton made it a wonderful project to sew. It is a bit on the thicker side for this project but again, it was completely malleable as a soft, cotton fiber. 

My daughter is tall and thin with broad shoulders/back. She's several inches taller than I am but our back length is nearly identical. I do have to add quite a bit of length to sleeves and pants for her...and often times, a broad back adjustment. 

Since this is a looser fitting garment, I just cut a size 38 back and 36 front (with 38 shoulder). I added 2" to the sleeve - 1" above the elbow and 1" below. 

I did NOT enjoy tying off all these darts! 14 total!!!

This was actually a really quick sew - even with all of the adjustments and such, I started it on the evening of the 6th, didn't even work on it constantly, and had it boxed up and ready to ship on Sunday afternoon. 

THESE SLEEVES!

I really like the shape of the sleeves. My darts don't line up perfectly - shhhhhh! When I sew for my daughter, I am not apologetic about cutting corners/taking shortcuts. She's ALWAYS grateful but she's still a 20 something and I know she cannot fully appreciate the labor! 

The instructions call for Petersham for the D-ring side and had it not been for this nice, pliable fabric, that tab for the rings would have been a mess. I ended up layering the seams, pinking the tab ends, and pressing the mess out of it and it isn't too bulky at that section, thankfully. 

For the inside, they have you sew a snap to the petersham and the left front. I used some cute twill tape that I picked up from Craft South when I was in Nashville. 

My corners aren't sharp but - it's fine!

The twill tape and snap are so handy and I love the tag added here on the facing!

I did use some knit stay tape around the front and neckline edge early and topstitched the facing close to the edge. This will definitely be hitting the washer and dryer if i know my kid and I didn't want any potential raw bits with this ravel-ly fabric. 

Mine is up next! And maybe I'll have some pics of her in hers next time.

I kept trying it on but the finished hip here is *much* smaller than my hips so I didn't take any pics in it :-p

In other news, I bought another knitting machine! It's a mid-gauge Brother KX350. It's a plastic bed so benefits are - it's so lightweight! I can use sport weight to worsted on this machine (my standard gauge can use what would be considered lace weight to fingering weight and maaaaaybe sometimes some sport weight). 
The general mechanics are the same but it's a different beast from the metal bed standard gauge. 

Because I can't handknit anymore, I don't have much worsted weight yarn on hand. I'll have to grab a few balls and try a couple of easy projects like a new wrap for working (working from home still but it'll be cold for quite awhile longer here in the tundra!), or a scarf.


I'm a little over a month into my new job and I am SO happy that I made the move! Listen to yourself! Yourself is probably right :-p

We're working from home for the foreseeable future but once Covid is more controlled, I'll be working 2-3 days a week in the office. It's a beautiful location in downtown St. Paul (which is truly gorgeous and architectural and interesting!) (but not fun to drive around, lol!). 


I found some decently fitted, decently made blazers at Ann Taylor last month and am just energized all over again to create a couple of jackets. 

These striped pants are my favorite. I got them from LOFT some time ago. I was SMITTEN with them immediately and the guy that worked there tried to talk me out of them because they're vertical stripes. Dude, I don't follow the rules! :-p 

This one "fits" but, hello biceps! 
I'm not sure I could wear much more than a slim fitting tee underneath.

I have Martin Luther King Jr. Day off (probably the first time this has been a regularly scheduled holiday for me since I worked for the state of MN 15 years ago!) so I will be relaxing and sewing and/or knitting. 


20 comments:

  1. Such a lovely top for your daughter...looks so cozy. So pleased that your new job is working out.

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  2. Love the wrap cardigan. I have a Passap Vario and Bond ISM knitting machines. If you can find a copy of "The Prolific Knitting Machine" on Etsy or Thrift books - it changed my knitting, since I am first a sewer - she uses the cut and sew method.

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  3. Love your daughter's sweater and all of it's darts. Great job on it! I would have been so tempted to keep that one!

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    1. Only because I knew I was making one for myself in some fabric I've been hoarding made it easier to hand it over! :-p

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  4. The cardigan has such a classy, Japanese designer vibe. That fabric is lovely!

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  5. that top is really nice. I just cannot do hand knitting, i feel all thumbs so I am giving it up. I guess machine knitting would be the way to go but also cannot with more stuff in my house :) blazer...did someone say blazer? waiting to see the finished one :)

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    1. I keep saying no more hobbies...then start looking at embroidery machines! :-D

      YESSSSSSSS. It's so close WHINE!


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  6. I just love the cardigan you made for your daughter! It is beautiful! All the details are so nice too. Congratulations on your new job! I am so glad you are enjoying it, and it was the right move for you. I look forward to seeing your cardigan.

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  7. Wait - are you telling me I can cut two different front and back sizes? Can I do this for wovens too? Is there anything special you need to do with the pattern? Sorry for all the questions but you just may have made my pattern fitting become a lot easier and less time consuming! I've been getting so frustrated with fitting lately.

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    1. Yes. Yes. YES!

      I was a rank newbie and thought nothing of using a size 16 front and 18 back for a skirt and MAGIC! This works!!!! And I haven’t looked back!

      The consideration would be ensuring side seams match up and/or elements (if there are additional horizontal seams or notches or whatever), so you want to walk the two to ensure they match. I do it on wovens and knits and it’s FINE!

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    2. This is absolutely amazing - thank you! My upper back is the size of Texas so I need a bigger back than front bodice. I just never knew this could be done. I'm so excited to test it out!

      I'm now going to read the rest of your post because I stopped dead in my tracks when you mentioned that.

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  8. Love the cardigan - it looks great! The fabric looks so awesome with the pattern. Also - congrats on your new job; I am so happy for you! I'm happy you listened to yourself and that it is leading to better things. Enjoy your day off on Monday :-)

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    1. Thank you!!!

      I can't wait to see how it fits her. Mine is about 80% done and I love it. She has a 5 month old so I guess she doesn't have time for model shots or whatever :-p

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  9. Soliciting tips for marking darts on knits! I made the Burda jersey tie-top and had a helluva time marking those bust darts...can't imagine doing it for 3 little darts so close together!

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    1. I think it's so fabric-dependent! But I will tell you, I have SO many marking tools - it's about finding the right one for the job.

      I have the old school Dritz puple/blue marking pen, tailors chalk (triangles and rolling markers), Frixon pens, white wax chalk, wax paper+serrated wheel). I just take a sample and see what works best.

      Also, when dart legs are straight, I usually just mark the tip, mark each end, and then draw the line with a straightedge and whatever marking tool.

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