Monday, January 10, 2022

Burda 10/2018 #115

I've had this one on the brain for a long time, the collar is too cool! I traced a size 40 neckline, shoulder, and front armhole, the rest is a size 42. The pattern is very rectangular/straight from the bust down and that just doesn't work for me. My hips are 2 (pattern) sizes bigger than my shoulders and I had to make some adjustments.

I did a slash and spread with a hinge (I didn't want to add a ton of width all the way through the hemline) and added to the hip. This pattern piece looks a little wonky. I smoothed the transition a bit more when cutting it out, but it worked out okay. I still have it hanging up some on the back, but eh, it's fine! 

I totally forgot to take pics with my wide belt! It was really cute when I tried it mid-construction. 

I love the bell sleeve! It's a nice change and they aren't so wide that they get in the way. Of course, I did my normal 1" bicep adjustment but this fabric doesn't have a ton of stretch and I ended up sewing the sleeves at 3/8" for a bit more ease. 

It's totally more this plum color vs the grape color in the pics on me. 
The fabric was a find from local designer Kokoon Fashion.

The pattern includes a zipper, which is necessary with the high, fitted neckline. Since the rest of the pattern isn't fitted, it probably doesn't need such a long zipper. Then, I goofed on placement so I had to sew a hook into the collar. Arrgh!

Which, speaking of, when Burda confuses you, just follow along as you're working through the step. I read it several times and it wasn't until I was working on the collar that it made sense. There's a small section on the neckline that is reinforced, clipped, and hemmed by hand (I went back and topstitched it). Then, the collar parts are reinforced at the notch, clipped, and partially sewn. Turn out and attach the raw edge to the neck edge. I serged it together in one pass rather than turning it in and stitching it by hand. Then, the finished edges are twisted around each other and secured at the zipper. It works! It's pretty floppy when it isn't on the body, but the tension holds it in place nicely.

side slit

I'm glad I finally made this one and may sew the top version in the future, the shoulder fit on this is awesome. 


  1. Oooh! This is lovely! Love the collar and the hip ease adjustment.

  2. Definitely this is such a cute dress! And that collar knot! Wow! Did not notice it on the IG pics at all.

  3. Loving the color and everything about it ... FIESTA :)

  4. Love it! The color is amazing and it looks so good on you.

  5. Your blog almost makes me want to try sewing a garment, which I abandoned for quilting (no bust darts! LOL). This dress is lovely.

  6. I love it! The color is beautiful and the fit is great. I love the collar detail. And I agree - sometimes you just have to trust in the Burda and do exactly what it says, even when it doesn't make sense. It usually gets you there, one way or another.

  7. Thanks for the close-up picture on the collar, I missed that at first glance and thought "oooh another turtleneck dress!" I love how comfortable they are to wear in the winter. But I digress... Your dress is stunning.

  8. This is lovely! Interesting collar!


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