Sewing Plan: Fall Mini Wardrobe

I haven't had sewing successes lately :( But I started a wool skirt and I am excited about it. So I'm going to FOCUS and create some items that I hope make me happy! 

Initially, I wanted a slit-front skirt and was going to make a black wool version of S8175. Ultimately, I decided I wanted a perfectly flat-front and am going to use M3830, view B, with side slits instead of a back walking vent. 

I also plan to knit a version of this ribbed top I saw in an old Passap magazine (the 60s Passap patterns are a treasure trove of beautiful design!). 

I want to make a pair of trousers too in a taupe or tan or other non-white nude, and at least two silk tops.

For the pants, I'm going with a TNT for me, V9032. It's been awhile since I sewed them, but ankle pants have ruled for years. This version I sewed is exaclty what I want right now!

For the tops, I plan to remake S8216 and B5965. It's been a LONG time since I've made either, but they both worked extremely well for me and I really (really!) need a win or two. 

B5965

S8216

If I can keep up the momentum, I really(!) want to make B6901 vest and pants...so we'll see how things go. 

Finished Object: Butterick 5526 and Updates

I posted HERE when I planned out this project and HERE with info on adjustments and construction. I  have to admit, I did not like it when I first finished it. I called it a "Post Office" shirt! LOL!!! I finally wore it after washing it a couple of times (I dislike when it's super crisp).

Wearing it has shown that removing all of the cap ease DOES impact the fit a little - I think it limits my mobility a bit when I bring my arms forward. But it isn't straining or pulling, so there's that. Luckily, I had a tracing and adjusted that; the original sleeve is intact.

I wore it with my aqua? mint? jeans...it also pairs well with camel, red, navy, and black. I didn't like it as much with a pair of mid-toned blue pants (post office!!). 

And after looking at the pics in the black skirt I was like, geez, I look so blocky! And yep...this skirt is too big. I can pinch like 3" out of the waist. 

I really like the sleeve more and more! I added a center seam and topstitched that seam. It looks really good. This pattern has no dart control at all...if I made it again I'd either make it a bit looser overall or do a cheater FBA. The side view shows it's flattening my chest a bit. 

Good thing this turned out well because EVERYTHING ELSE I've been working on is MEHHHHHHHHH!

I put the yellow dress  in timeout and while the Burda shorts turned out well (I'm tempted to make another pair but feel like full-on fall will immediately arrive if I do)... 

...the double gauze wasn't fun to sew and I realized I messed up the collar on the shirt. I feel mildly over it.

I understitched the facings but they are still super floppy and I have no confidence in sewing buttonholes in this fabric. You can see in this pic where I messed up attaching the collar.

I was so close to recutting the shorts but luckily, I posted about the fabric growing and someone told me it would be fine once washed. WHEW!! Apparently it grows while sewing but once I washed them, they were perfect. 

I went to insert a sleeve on the yellow dress and sewed the entire thing only to realize there was NEVER any thread in the bobbin. OY VEY! The next night, I tried again and sewed the sleeve inside out. Totally in the naughty bin now. Hmmph!

Sewing Plan: Style Arc Monty Shirt and Burda 7/2017 Shorts

That's a mouthful of a title! But using the full pattern name makes things more searchable in the google :)

If you've been following my sewing adventures of the NL6692 dress (Plan here) on IG, you'll know that I officially HATE sewing this pattern! There are some annoying aspects of the pattern, combined with the shifty rayon challis, and it just hasn't been an enjoyable experience. However, it looks cute on, so I persevere!

I got a stash influx from a knitting friend (almost all natural fibers) and I immediately pulled out a few pieces of fabric to sew. 

A silky cotton woven, a linen (enough for shorts), and a cotton and/or linen(?) double gauze (?)

We had a high of like 65 on Saturday, so fall is on the way! But, I also know it will for sure warm up again, so I decided to go for it and make another summer addition to the wardrobe. 

I wanted to make a 2-piece set and settled on this short pattern from the Burda 7/2017 issue right away. I will probably exclude the trim that's sewn to the side seams and serve as a sort of tab. I definitely plan to include the cording with beads though! Very cute!!

In my very humble opinion, the Russian site is the best organized for viewing magazine issues and line drawings. 

This is a direct link to search by year and month, and view the full photos for each issue: Russian site by year

But THIS link...far more helpful!! Tech Drawings by year

This links to all of the at-a-glance sheets of the tech drawings from 2022 with links to each year back to 2014. I stopped subscribing after 2022 so I don't have the link for 2023, but I'm sure it's there. 

It took me awhile to decide on a shirt but I knew I wanted a loose fitting, somewhat boxy, button-front top and :lightbulb:! I remembered I had the Style Arc Monty.

Style Arc, like Burda is one of those pattern companies that just works for me. From their site, "Style Arc patterns are drafted for a B bust cup size and a height of 167cm (5'6")."

Personally, I think they draft for a slightly narrower shoulder too. Now, I get fussy about their instructions (I've found a mistake or two), but the draft works and their designs are always fresh.

I'll be using Fashion Sewing Supply's Tricot knit interfacing in white, and buttons I bought from M&J (who is going out of business!!!) on my 2018 trip to NYC. I also have beads in my stash from a Fabric Mart order some time ago. 

Sewing Plan and Fitting: New Look 6692

I had plans to refresh my loungewear wardrobe when a knitting friend invited me to shop her stash. She's long since retired and had a wonderful stash of nearly 100% natural fibers and I scored on wools and silks of all weights, colors, patterns and prints. Woohoo!!

I detoured from my detour and decided to make a summer dress that could transition to fall. I think the color and length allows it to be worn with sandals and when the air is a little crisp, with a cardigan, denim jacket, and booties. 

I am sewing view A in a floral rayon challis that has a mustard background and red, white, and blue in the flowers. 

New Look patterns work really well for me and don't require a lot of adjustments. I cut a size 14 and graded the back bodice to a 16 at the waist and cut a 16 skirt back. I shortened the bodice 1" through the back and on the side front, 1" at the side seam tapering to nothing at the princess seam. 

The pattern calls for 12 rows of elastic sewn into casings. I don't know if you've ever sewn more than 2 rows of elastic in a casing, but it gets progressively difficult. One, I just didn't want to do that. But also, WHY NOT JUST DO SHIRRING?! I cut my panel, shirred it, and it was a tiny bit smaller than the pattern piece, but the shirring is super stretch and it's fine. Worth noting that the casings were 1/2" wide, I shirred it at more like 3/8" and just kept making rows until I got to the bottom that's meant to be left plan. Then, you hit it with a shot of steam and watch it draw up. It's fun! haha! Speaking of stretchy shirring, I eliminated the zipper. I didn't find it necessary with that and the gathered skirt.

My fabric was really, really shifty and I kept having to re-find the grainline and wasted fabric. I didn't have enough for the sleeves and 3 panels for the lower flounce. But, the flounce is just a rectangle! It measured about 17.5" (cut on the fold), for a total of 52.5" folded of fabric. Well, my fabric was at least 58" wide so I just cut two 26" lengths on the fold. 

Current state, it needs side seams sewn, flounce hemmed, gathered and attached, and sleeves inserted. Final step will be to stitch the bodice lining to the skirt. 

I have NOT enjoyed sewing this pattern. It has been a real slog and I almost quit. Luckily, I tried it on as best I could with a partially constructed garment and it is REALLY cute. 

Machine Knitting - Minnesota State Fair Entries!

The MN State Fair is apparently the second most-attended fair in the country behind Texas' state fair. It's a big deal!

I'd only been to the fair a few times, ever, and while I'd visited the Creative Activities building, and ooh'd and ahh'd over the things hanging up, I never thought I would have anything hanging in those display cases! When I joined the machine knitting group, I learned that we had many members who had won many ribbons over the years. Two years ago, I knit my best pair of socks and everyone was like, "you should enter them into the fair!" and I thought they were gassing me! HA! Well, I won a BLUE RIBBON for those socks! 

Last summer, it was all house stuff, 24/7. So I didn't submit any entries. But I knew I wanted to a) submit some things this year and b) stretch myself on those projects. 

Now, important to note that you can submit anything made within 3 years. But, I know I'm not going to submit something that I've been wearing regularly, so I plan to make the things I'm going to make. Registration is due a couple weeks before the drop off date so it's best to over-register and under-deliver. I registered for 6 categories this year:

1. Baby 0-2 
2. Winter accessory (hat, mittens, gloves, etc)
3. Pullover sleeveless adult sweater or vest
4. Adult suit
5. Pullover plain adult sweater (can include stripes)
6. Pullover textured adult sweater (like tuck or lace)

I submitted to the first 4 categories. I had a cute top going for the 5th but had yarn bleed and decided to cut my losses on that project. I will finish it, because I like the top, but it wasn't going to be "right" for entry so I moved on. 

I intended to make a garment for the textured category but ended up submitted that item to the sleeveless category. 

1) For the baby outfit, I used a cotton yarn - three strands of very fine cotton loosely twisted together. This yarn did not want to do ANYTHING other than stockinette. It knits up beautifully though!! But tuck, garter, all those other things were out of the question with the individual strands of yarn. The machine hated it. It's a size 6 months (approximately). I never worry too much about baby outfits. If gauge is close enough, that's good enough. It's a baby. Chances are it's a very short term wear and it's more about the thoughtfulness. 

I did an envelope shoulder for the first time and I DID TWO DRY-RUNS and still did the shoulder backwards. ARGH! When working on the machine, you're purl side facing, and I mixed up the directions. So that might prevent a 1st place win but maybe 2nd :) (they judge harshly! LOL!)

look at those tiny poms! (made with a fork!)

2) Next up, I intended to make a pair of fair-isle mittens and at the last minute, pivoted. I wanted vertical stripes without knitting sideways and worked out how to do it and knit a couple samples and LOVED it. Woohoo!!!! I used scraps of sock yarn that was in my stash but now I want to buy yarn for the style and make up a handful with different color schemes. A couple friends have expressed interest so they shall have them. 

I'd had a few false starts with the hat and then somehow talked myself into going into the craft room at like 9:30 p.m. I then made changes to the sizing on the fly (sigh). I added 8 rows of ribbing (so another inch) and instead of knitting 10 rows of each color change (also an inch -ribbing knits up a little tighter), I went to 12 rows. Well, that 2 extra rows x 6 changes = 12 rows or a little over an inch. So now I've added 2 inches to the "height" of my hat. DOH! But it's still CUTE!

3) One of my goals this year was to start using my mid-gauge machine more. It is so handy in that the stitches are SO much larger than the standard gauge, it's easier to do some hand-manipulation...but it's a plastic bed machine and doesn't have a ribber or electronics or anything. I bought a few projects worth of DK and Worsted yarn for the purpose.

I picked up this Plymouth Yarn Sea Isle (in Lime) on a recent trip to Chicago from Wool & Co. It's a chainette pima/merino blend so it's super squishy! I thought the lace motif would really stand out in this yarn and I think I was right! Initially, I'd planned to a cable on each side of the lace but decided to let this design shine on its own. 

The lace is all manipulated by hand with a transfer tool. AND I was talking to a friend while working on it! That means it's SUPER easy! lol!!! When I do short row shaping, I still have to pause my music and focus really, really hard on what I'm doing. 

This photo is before I weaved in all the ends and gave it a final steam, but showing it on Lily gives a better idea of fit (though Lily is a little larger than I am so it is a loser fit)

4) The woman that sold me my machine and gave me my first few lessons was a designer and test knitter for St. John. She also designed a pant pattern to sell (cough, cough). I was determined to make the pants and bought a 1.5 pound cone of wool/rayon crepe yarn in suede from Made In America Yarns for the purpose. I'd bought a second BIG cone (that's what they call 'em) in eggplant to make a skirt and cardigan. Well, I was halfway through the top before thinking, "so interesting I bought this and I don't normally wear this color..." Well, that's because I bought it for PANTS. oy! 

I created all of the garment patterns in the Knit it Now software. You start with a base pattern, input custom measurements and yarn gauge, and it creates a pattern.

I decided on this round neck, fitted top but wasn't 100% on the "right" measurements for each section. Yes, I measured myself and it all seemed fine, but it is a little longer than I'd typically wear, so that's something to keep in mind. I have a short torso and do not like to wear longer length tops for the most part. 

The skirt is a straight skirt with minimal shaping on the lower half (I think the bottom hem is about 1" narrower than the hip). I used about 2 inches of negative ease in the hip and 1" positive ease in the waist. IT LOOKS SO CUTE ON! I don't have pics though (because it was nighttime and dark and I'm not wearing a bra so those will stay in the photo album!) until I get it back from the fair. 

I did ribbed hems on the sweater (1" on the bottom and about 3/4" on the sleeve) and I did stockinette with picot edge for the neckband. The skirt is finished with a hung hem (essentially a fold-over hem). 

It's not quite finished though (shhhhh). This yarn wants to be steamed hard. That brings out the drape and softness, but I couldn't risk it not drying in time, so I lightly steamed after wet-blocking. But look at this pic before blocking or steaming:

steaming really brings this yarn to life!

Here is the in-progress sweater that was going to be entry #5. It wasn't until I was about to stitch down the neckband that I realized the center stripe on the front had bleed from the olive yarn. It is REALLY discolored compared to the bright white band :/

The other issue that caused me not to submit this one, with this being a sideways knit, you cast on a sleeve, knit to the body, cast on for the body, knit across, cast off the body, ,knit the sleeve, cast off the sleeve. I have done this but only on a round neck, never a v-neck. 

Do you see it??

The first side has nice, fully fashioned decreases. The second side is messy by comparison. I'll ask my knitting group if there's a fix for that. I *think* I know what it is but want to verify. 

And don't mind that messed up stitch in the band on the left, I will fix it when I stitch down the band :)

Now that that's done...whew! I have some SEWING to do! 

I was given a whole bunch of amazing wools and silks from a knitting friend's stash and I am still sorting through it all, but have already identified 3 must-have-now garments from the fabrics. More soon :)

Fitting and Construction: Butterick 5526 (B5526)

So, score for me not having to cut the pattern out! For me and my myriad hand issues, this is a major win! Sometimes, cutting the paper pattern is a one-day activity because I "use up my hand" doing that task and have to wait before moving on to cutting fabric.

I'm almost 5 years post-reduction (OMG WHERE DOES THE TIME GO!?) and I'm slightly larger than I was. I could probably use a tiny FBA on things...like less than 1/2" for an additional 1" total, so I don't bother. I often just shape the side seams a little bit. 

In the case of this casual top, there is no dart control (no darts or gathers), and I intended to add a bit (3/8") to the side seam at the bust, and forgot. Ah well. It'll be fiiiine! 

(this is one of the benefits of being more experienced, I'm able to decide what to fuss on and what not to)

I did a rounded back adjustment of 5/8". This is standard for me with Big4 patterns. I open it at the neckline -- this dart is usually about half the width of the opening at the center back. You can sew the dart shut, in my case I leave it and just ease it into the collar. For some garments or fabrics, I alter the collar to fit this additional width. 

I also wanted to remove some of the sleeve cap ease and consulted two sources. 

Threads used a method by Sarah Veblen where you walk the seam and note the excess, add back an appropriate amount of ease, slice it through, add seam allowance, and sew the seam. 

I trued that bad curve when I cut the fabric

David Coffin similarly has you walk the seam, remove the excess ease, but has you sew this dart closed. 

I decided to add the seam and topstitch it for a decorative effect. 

BUT I MADE A MISTAKE. oy! I noted the excess ease but did not add back ANY sleeve cap ease. I know there's some discussion around the necessity of sleeve cap ease and while I think most Big4 patterns do include an excessive amount, I don't know that zero ease is always appropriate. Considering this is a semi-fitted, casual fit top, the amount of ease seemed over the top. So even removing it all (accidentally! haha!), does not result in a too-tight fit. 

Lastly, I don't care much about front pockets on shirts so often opt for just one, on the left. Other times, I include them both pretty much to cover the dart ends. Ymmv. The pocket is standard construction, stitch the upper part, turn it out, and then fold in the seam allowance and topstitch in place. I did note a review by Lladybird where she mentioned how high it was and I agreed when holding the pattern piece up to Lily...I lowered the placement by 1 inch. Wonder Tape is everything but for pockets, a good old fashioned glue stick works very well too!

My preferred order of construction for shirts:

1. darts (n/a in this case)
2. front pockets (if applicable)
3. serge hem
4. front placket, including turning out hem
5. shoulder seams (sew and serge)
6. fit side seams
7. side seams (sew and serge)
8. sew hem
9. sleeves (fully assemble including cuff if a long-sleeve pattern, sew and serge)
10. attach sleeves to body (sew and serge)
11. cut and prepare collar and stand (I don't even cut the fabric out until this point and always block interface a piece of fabric and cut the stand from that since there's some bias in this piece)
12. attach collar
13. top stitch collar stand (sometimes I topstitch the collar, sometimes I don't)
14. sew buttonholes and buttons

When sewing the placket, I traced in the fold lines on the right side of the fabric (be mindful of your marking tool e.g., marker-like tools will make a thicker line). I use my seam rule and this line to ensure accuracy. And here is a quick nod to PRESSING. It is game-changing!

At the hem, I fold it back and stitch at 5/8". I trim it to a scant 1/4", clip the fold, and turn it out. I do not poke anything in anywhere or any of that! There shouldn't be a need for poking and prodding. 

blue annotation because I forgot to take a photo of trimming

Another tip - always mind your markings. Notches and such exist to ensure pieces match where they should. The only time I'll ignore markings is when it is literally two straight pieces coming together and I know they have to be the exact same length. Whenever there is any shaping, curves, etc., I make the appropriate markings and am sure to match up. 

Here on the sleeve, you can see where I matched the sleeve to the body, exactly. 

On the collar and collar stand, I use the pattern markings plus drawing in the seam allowance (this was done with a fixion pen for accuracy) to ensure everything is sewn properly. Fold the seam allowance up on the interior collar stand before sewing, again, to ensure you are accurately stitching at 5/8". Because this is a bulky amount of fabric, I trim this seam with pinking shears after pressing it up. Be careful with trimming - you don't want to remove too much fabric and with it, the integrity of the pieces. Lastly, Wonder Tape to the rescue! Once the collar stand is attached, I use wonder tape to hold the interior stand in place. Using my walking foot and a slower speed, I topstitch the stand. I usually start in the middle so I can navigate the curves of the collar stand more easily. 

When I tried the shirt on, I hated the sleeve length! Using a scrap piece of fabric, I played around with the idea of sleeve bands and really liked the look. Deciding on a finished length of 1 3/4", I cut pieces 4 1/2" wide (adding seam allowance) and longer than the sleeve opening since it would be a little more difficult to accurately measure the sleeve in the round. I then pinned the band into the sleeve opening to ensure an accurate measurement. I used my walking foot to topstitch the band. 

I need to do the buttonholes and sew the buttons, but that's a straightforward task for my machine. If you struggle with buttonholes and your machine, be sure to read your manual and follow the directions there, run a test buttonhole or two, use tear away stabilizer if needed, and be patient! 

When choosing between two buttons, I'll stitch them on loosely like shown, and come back to it later, deciding pretty instantaneously which one I prefer. I'm going with the smaller button on bottom.

The shirting is a bit crisp, as cotton shirting tends to be. My trick to this is to add the item to my laundry EVERY time. Even if it I haven't worn it. It helps break it in a little faster :)

Watch for finished photos in a bit! 

Next up, I am making a slight detour from the plan in my head to sew up a few pair of lounge/pj shorts and maybe a nightgown or two. In 2016 and 2018, I made a bunch of loungewear and it's about time to refresh. 

I'm also knitting up a storm, working on State Fair entries(?). 

More, later!

Sewing Plan: Butterick 5526 (B5526)

I'll be sharing my new sewing space soon! But suffice to say, the paint, new floors, and reorganization really sparked my desire to make. 

I wanted a straightforward project, but not a fast project. I wanted to spend some time in the process, and decided on a button front shirt. I knew I wanted a more casual top (not too fitted) that was fairly neutral and could mix and match readily with skirts and pants in my wardrobe. 

I also decided on short sleeves. I recently thrifted a blue & white striped cotton shirt with long sleeves and I just don't really wear long sleeves in summer - even rolled up!

I wear this chambray version of Burda 7136 ALL the time. I made it in 2016 and it has only gotten better with time. 

I was going to go for the TNT (I've made this pattern 5 or 6 times) but ultimately decided to branch out. I searched my stash and decided on the oldie but goodie, Butterick 5526. 

Imagine my surprise to find THREE copies of this pattern in my pattern drawers! Oy! I got back ups to my back up! Haha!

I opened the first one, and huzzah! the size 14 was already cut out. I chose a thin striped cotton shirting from the stash. There was no label on it, so I don't have a source for it, but it's been in the stash for a while.

I'll be using Fashion Sewing Supply's ProSheer Elegance Light interfacing (HERE) and shirt buttons from Wawak (HERE). I swear by FSS interfacing. It's pretty much all I've used for about 5-6 years. I remember one year snagging a deal on some interfacing from Fabric Mart at $1/yard and it was VERY comparable to FSS. Aside from that, I keep going back for more, even as the price has increased a bit. 

Her interfacing is 60" wide (vs Pellon which is 20") and is preshrunk. It performs fabulously. I usually keep the Light, Medium, Couture, and Tricot on hand, in white and black. 

As I edit this for posting, I have the collar, buttonholes, and buttons left to do. Looking forward to this addition and sharing a bit more about the process. 

Tap, Tap, Tap...Is this thing on?

Hey y'all!!

Apparently, it has been approximately 539 days since I last blogged. And let me tell you, a lot can happen in 539 days!

I think most that follow the blog follow me on IG, so probably not news but since my last post I've purchased a home (new sewing room to share! woohoo!!), got a divorce (joyfully!), and became a grandma again (for the 3rd time!).

While I've certainly sewn a few things, I have not been sewing like I'd like. I'm thinking my recent sewing room upgrades will change that, and I'm excited to reconnect with the sewing community without relying on IG. The algorithm continues to be an issue, the exclusive focus on Reels is an issue, and now, they've made hashtags useless. 

I've always excitedly shared new makes here, but I think I'm going to move to a different format, especially since I'm sewing less overall. I hope to share projects in 2-3 parts: 

• planning;
• fitting and/or construction; 
• construction and/or modeled photos

Planning: pattern choice, fabric choice, notions needed (and where to acquire them!)

Fitting: I have some standard changes that I make for various pattern brands that I sew regularly (Big4 patterns, Burda magazine, and Style Arc), but I will also share in these posts the resources used or similar resources available to determine fit changes that may be needed and how to do them. Depending on the garment, this post may include construction information (e.g., a simple knit dress or straight skirt may not have a lot of fitting details or construction steps).

Modeled photos: This post may include construction if it is a more complex garment, along with the modeled photos. I hope to share items after they have been integrated into my wardrobe so that I can talk about what works, what may not work, and/or what I might do differently on a future make (or if the pattern won't be revisited!).

I will forever state, vehemently, that I am not a teacher! But, as my sewing continues to improve, I'd like to be a resource for people who care about the overall craft and not just shiny finished goods and high-quality photos. I'm *considering* a YouTube channel, but I'm not sure yet if I can commit to that. 

I am also diving heavier into machine knitting. I can't be a resource on that topic yet...but will be sure to share as much info as I can in each project post for anyone who may be interested. 

I have dove head-first into DIY since buying my house! I've done so many projects and have started a bit of amateur woodworking, so you might see that too! (it's MY BLOG! haha!). 

Lastly, while I don't do much general crafting or Cricut crafting anymore, those posts will be here as well. I am no longer a Cricut ambassador. They dropped me after I gave an honest (but not negative!) review of the Cricut Joy. Booooooo.

For now, here is a picture that brings ME great joy...lounging in my new hammock in my backyard :-D