Vacation Sewing; Kwik Sew 4169 (sort of)

I wanted this pattern when it was first released, but I think KS may have still been being sold at the higher price point. And while I liked it a lot, I didn't like it for $6.99. I snagged it up from one of the many BMV sales and the surplice front + racer back + maxi length had me swooning over it for my upcoming trip.

I'd purchased this cut of tropical print ITY from Fabric Mart towards the end of the summer season. But then switched to fall sewing shortly after it came. Once I got the pattern I knew this pattern plus this fabric would happen.

Except I never checked the fabric recommendations on the pattern. Oops. The maxi length takes 4 yards because the skirt is cut on the bias. Now, there have been times where I've taken a knit bias cut skirt pattern and just used the straight grain, but this pattern has a lot of flare/swing to it in the hem and I really didn't want to mess that up. It really didn't matter though. Once I pulled out the fabric - OY! I had only gotten 2 yards of it! Sheesh. I'd already been contemplating a gathered skirt so this sealed the deal.

A word on gathered skirts - I LIKE THEM! But only when it's a fabric that is light enough / has enough drape that the gathers lie nice and pretty and don't poof. And, not criticizing anyone else, but I just don't have that type of relationship with my body that I feel I always need to cover/camouflage/'fix' things. I have a little belly - so? A gathered skirt is not going to change the fact that I am barely 5'5" and weigh 185 ish pounds! So I wear what I like despite "rules" and if it isn't the most "flattering" (I've come to hate that word). Anyway...onward!! :-p

I mean, does this NOT say, "I'm on vacation!!!"?!

I measured the original skirt length and basically just cut my fabric at the length minus 2 inches. Then, I cut the fabric in half on the fold line. Giving me two panels about 30" wide and 41" long. I serged the sides and ran a basting stitch on each panel, gathered it and then attached it to the bodice. There is 1/4" elastic in the waist and I wish I had used some clear elastic at the shoulders. It's pretty heavy and the skirt does pull the bodice down a bit even with the elastic.

You'll have to take my word that I'll wear a convertible bra :-p 

I wasn't about to change bras to take these pics! LOL!!!!

OMG THE NARROW HEMMING!!! Wahhhhhhh! I hate every moment of hemming that neckline and armholes. Every. Stinking. Moment. It took more time to do just that piece than to cut out and sew the rest of the dress!!!

so much work. so much steam. so many pins.

I serged the bottom and turned up a 5/8" hem.

This is my "press your knits!!" PSA:

The top is after I turned the belt, the bottom is after it's been pressed (with a press cloth). Ahhhh.

Kwik Sew tops/bodices seem to be built for a very, very broad woman. I recall needing to take out oodles of fabric when I made that jacket and it was still way too big. I cut a Medium!! I ended up taking it in under the arm 5/8" on each side. That's a total of 2.5 inches removed. In.sane.  The only other adjustment I made was a 5/8" swayback adjustment. It was perfect.

At any rate, I LOVE THIS DRESS! It's so pretty and vacation-y and girly and flowy and fun!!

Because what's a blog post without silly pics!?

I *love* these sandals! (They're about 2 years old now)

I plan to either travel in it heading to Orlando or coming home - knit dresses = maximum comfort for me!! Or maybe out to dinner one night.

I could see making this again at some point in a stripe to take advantage of those bias-cut skirt seams. I recall making McCall's 7121 and for whatever reason that dress was just awful on me. I'm guessing the surplice front is what makes this one a win.

Up Next - my knock off of a gingham J.Crew dress - both because it is gorgeous and screams summer-- and because of the Bargainsta Fashionista contest on PR.

March Wrap Up and April Plans

On Monday I posted this list on Instagram:

I had started on the velvet joggers for my daughter and was looking forward to whipping up the Kwik Sew wrap maxi dress to finish out March. 

And then this happened: 

I have influenza! Wahhhhhh! The body aches-oh my gosh. Fever, sore throat, headaches...I have been miserable. It's the first time I've ever had the flu and I've never had the vaccine. As I told a friend, I guess my luck ran out!

I blame going to IKEA and Mall of America on Saturday! So many people. So many germs!!

I have periods of time after sleeping and taking meds where I have a little energy. I don't think I'll be sewing any time over the next few days, but figured I could wrap up the month.

This month I sewed:

Burda 3/2017 #111 dress in cobalt ponte
McCall's 7562 dress in printed poly crepe
Burda 3/2014 joggers in royal blue velvet (WIP for my daughter)

I really love both dresses!! They are on opposite ends of the wardrobe spectrum but both so cute and wearable!

I bought a lot of fabric this month!
2 FM orders - one I snagged a bunch of knits and the other I got a mix of stuff.
Craftsy order - navy Kaufmann cotton gingham to copy a J.Crew dress
Amazon via Fabric.com - Telio raw hide faux leather (here). This fabric looks decent online. I bought it to make a skirt so we'll see how that goes whenever I get around to it. I paid a little more for it on Amazon but then I didn't have to pay for shipping so it was pretty much a wash.

For April, I probably won't get to the Butterick jacket.  I do want to make the other things to take on vacation:

Kwik Sew 4169 maxi

McCall's 7577, the romper, sleeveless

Burda 4/2016 #112

Burda 4/2017 #107

Finished: McCall's 7562

*~LOVE~* 

Eek! I fell for this one right away and decided I had to have it when I booked the Disney vacation. Right away, I also knew I'd be using this fabric. It's a precut piece from Fabric Mart. I had 2 yards and would be cutting it close. 

I ended up having to cut on the crossgrain to get the pieces to fit. I also didn't have any option to try to match the motif at the side seams. I cut a size Medium and made no fit adjustments. I had to change some things about construction as this poly crepe is extremely spongey and takes a lot of work to press.

The ties on the sleeve are supposed to be folded in fourths (press a center line, press each side to the center, fold the entire thing in half and topstitch). Nope. I ended up just sewing a tube and turning it. I used a 3/8" seam so it wouldn't turn out too narrow. It's slightly wider than intended, but that's okay.  I also left off the pockets.

The cold-shoulder was serged, double-turned and topstitched. The sleeve hem was serged and turned up just once and topstitched.

The front placket was to have seam allowances pressed in place before attaching but I couldn't do that. I attached it to the front and then worked it out! I had my front looking pretty good but then realize I didn't fully catch the under placket. I had to rip it out, which the crepe didn't like, and now I have a bit of a fold there. I think with the print and a necklace, it's fiiiiine.

That spot where the print is lightened? That's from me unpicking. 

I have fairly narrow shoulders so the neckline doesn't sit open enough to show the split neck on me. 

The bias neck binding is attached and then the front placket encases it.

Double turned hem

Lastly, the dress has a faced hem. It's a nice detail with the shaped hem but I decided to leave it.  Before I hemmed it I was not happy about the length. It felt very nightgown-ish. But then I hemmed it and it's okay!! It could be a *tiny* bit shorter but I like it. I could do with a slash and spread on the back for the bum. Another 1-2" right at the butt would be perfect.

I want to make the longer view too and could see making the others as well! I predict this pattern will definitely get some mileage this spring and summer!

Burda Challenge March: 3/2017 #111

As February ended, I realized the wardrobe contest wasn't going to happen and started planning other sewing for March. I passively added this dress and then was all...'heyyyyy. I may need to do that ASAP!" :)

I hadn't touched the machines in a minute and decided to start something easy before tackling another pair of jeans.

This is the petite pattern for March and Burda petite patterns fit me so well! The *only* thing I have to adjust and end up forgetting is the position of the bust darts. On the straight pattern it's okay, on the petite patterns it comes up a bit high. I have to remember that! I could have also added  a small wedge to the back skirt to navigate the butt.

I used a size 40 at the neckline/arms, 42 for the bust, waist and front skirt and graded out to a 44 on the back skirt. A combo 14/16/18 (or 40/42/44 with Burda) is normal for me. The fabric is a nylon/rayon/lycra ponte from Fabric Mart (purchased about 6 months ago).

This sheath is quite fitted and the skirt is pegged nicely. With straight sized Burda I don't usually add hem allowances. With this one I added 5/8" and sewed a 3/4" hem. I also raised the armhole a bit (~3/8") to account for making it sleeveless).

The facings fit nicely. I tacked them at the CF seam and the armholes. I decided to do binding on the armholes. I cut a strip 1" wide, stitched, graded the seam, turned in and topstitched with a twin needle.

The hem is topstitched as well:

I'm liking the narrower twin needle lately. I almost never get any tunneling.

I used an invisible zipper and then when I tried it on to decide on the hem, I put it on over my head. But it was a little tough so I am definitely pro zipper in this one. Especially with the close fit.

I was soooo close to perfection here. That doggone right bodice dart. You can see it came up just a bit short and therefore doesn't line up perfectly.

So. The twist front. 

This pattern was the sewing lesson of the month - the one that is in the paper part of the instructions, not the glossy part of the mag. The photos included with this aren't that helpful, IMO. But again, I find twist fronts always a bit confusing. 

It took a minute. And in the end I had a 'Oh-What-The-Hell-Ever' moment.

Outside:

Inside:

Like, I had to show my kids it was so bad. LOL!!!! I'm sure someone else will make this pattern and will fully understand what was supposed to be done - and share it with the rest of us!!! I made it look right on the outside and worried not what the interior looked like. 

I ADORE the neckline on this! It's slightly wide but not too much so, and slightly scooped. Just perfection. 

I could see this being made again for sure. Maybe even with sleeves and a properly sewn twist! :-p

Simplicity 1499 Vest

This pattern is at least 3 years old and there are a decent number of reviews. Primarily on the quilted version since that was (is?) such a popular RTW style. But view C had the bones of what I was looking for. Score!

I had the smaller envelope and went with the size 14. I decided not to do any FBA or anything and I thought the princess seam was more of a style line. I should have lowered the bust point a tad. Ah well. I don't mind it being "too small" technically through the body. I want it open and it hangs as I envisioned it. I did sew 1/2" side seams after getting it mostly assembled.

The collar instructions are weird. I don't know why they didn't just include a back facing. Booooo Simplicity. So that area isn't very clean on mine.

I also decided to add princess seams as style lines in back to mimic the front. Again, too, too proud of myself for this.  These are the types of details I would look for and buy a whole new pattern.

I decided to topstitch all the things

LOVE <3

I went with inseam welts which seem so straightforward but always cause me a tiny bit of head scratching. I used a navy and white polka-dot cotton for the pocket bags. Beware, these are some T.I.N.Y. pockets. 

The armholes include a 3/8" seam allowance. I cut strips 1.5" wide and applied it to be visible on the outside. It's a very subtle detail but it just works for me!!

As you can see in this photo, I'd attached epaulets. But then decided I didn't like them so I removed them. 

Fabric is a cotton twill from Fabric Mart. Not so easy to cut, very easy to sew/press/topstitch. 

Excuse my leggings. I worked from home the end of the day and had a "OMG I HAVE DAYLIGHT!!" moment and decided to get pics.

 If I had any reason to sew it again I would lower the bust point, narrow the shoulder a touch and draft a back facing. 

Really love this one though and it'll make a fab addition to my wardrobe.