2017 Hits and Misses and All That...

December will be productive; I'm going to take full advantage of my time off! So my assessments of what works and what doesn't isn't quite complete.

I've sewn much less than previous years. From January-November, I sewed 50 items. I made:

• 17 Tops (1 fail, 3 so-so, 1 never worn)
• 13 Dresses (2 fails, 4 so-so, 3 never worn)
• 6 skirts (2 fails)
• 6 Cardigans/Jackets (1 fail, 1 so-so, 1 never worn)
• 4 Other (2 fails, 2 so-so)
• 3 Pants (1 fail) (*I* only made 3 pair of pants all year)
• 1 Outerwear 

I have 9 fails and 9 so-so garments and 5 that I've never worn. That's almost half of my garments :/ 

 

There I go making all the tops again! LOL! At least my ratio of "good" projects has improved!

"unsuccessful" isn't entirely accurate but it was the best wording I could come up with. It includes actual fails, those garments that are okaaaaay, and things I haven't worn yet.

 

The most disappointing fails:

 

• Both Nettie bodysuits. I just don't like the pattern. I will try one of the Big4 patterns that was released this year.
• The Yellow V1501. I WANTED THIS SO BADLY!! The fabric is just not opaque enough. And I don't want to wear a slip with it because SUMMER. I guess it *could* be lined :/ UGH!!! I hate working on something after it's "finished".
• Burda 4/2017 striped knit dress. I LOVE the fit and details aside from the ruching. I don't dislike ruching but it just doesn't work up the center back for me. And the stripes make the front ruching look weird. I pulled this back out and tried it on again and NOPE. Donate pile.

So-So (not hated/a fail, and will stay in the wardrobe and will likely be worn):

 

• M6752. I love this top. I love the fit. I love the fabric print. I love the cowl + zipper. This fabric is shitty. Shitty. Shitty ITY. It's so weird how it is definitely not all created equally. I've made some wonderful garments from ITY and this feels like plastic-y paper. Grrr.
• M7627! I love this crazy top soooo much but it is hard to wear as I generally run hot (it *is* nearly 4 yards of fabric!). I hope to be able to wear it more in spring.
• S1499. I love the color of the vest but I rarely wear it. And I put it on - often! But then take it off and hang it back up. The fabric is a little too stiff and it stands away from my body. Suggestions for softening the fabric??
• Burda 9/2017. My silk blouse :( It rolls back on my shoulders so I'm constantly adjusting it. The sleeves are way too long, and I want to take the ties out but it feels SO AMAZING on my body and I love the color!!

Never worn:

 

• Burda 12/2015 vest. This was my sewing bee entry. I need to separate the olive from the denim. I adore the denim side and want to have it available to wear in the spring. I intended to have it ready to wear for spring!!!! :-D
• Burda 6/2012 (gingham). I kept feeling like I didn't have the right occasion to wear this. I don't know why!! It's like a quintessential summer dress.
• Burda 3/2017 (blue). It feels too dressy for work and I've never worn it :( But I LIKE it!
• V1501 (print). I made this for an event in MAY and it snowed(!). I never got around to wearing it. I wore the skirt from the same pattern and fabric very often this summer.
• S1366 cami. I don't know why!! I wear the other Vogue top from this fabric constantly.

We should talk about things I love!

 

• Ottobre 5/2017 sweatshirt - It's black. It's wool double knit. It's awesome! I seriously have to force myself to wear other things on weekends!
• Vogue 1522 - this top is everything!
• M6654 skirt - such a simple staple but I love it. I have worn it in all ways pictured and MORE.
• M7542 top - I hated every minute of making the pleated sleeves but I always felt so cute and fun and flirty when I wore this top. I'll have to make one of the other views when the weather warms up again.
• Burda 8/2017 - I have worn this as much as possible!! Winter has firmly settled in here and while it is still quite cozy below freezing, we've been having single-digit mornings so out comes the down coat.

I had a total of 12 "loves" of the 50. I'm not sure I'm okay with a 25% love rate. But I'm already on the path of being more mindful of my sewing so hopefully 2018 will be better.

**A super honorable mention to my newly made M6886 sweater dress. That's going to be a serious staple going into 2018.

I look forward to sharing my 2018 goals post. Do you know that January 2018 is my 5th sewing anniversary?!? :-O How time flies!!

Thank you all for following along with me this year!

Ok, Fine. Burda 8/2017 #109 (and M6886!!)

I have to review this before I forget any of the details about sewing it. I should say, I wore it to work one day this week.

#BlurrySelfie! :)

It's fine...I am not saying anything is wrong with it...just that the vision of pattern + fabric didn't mesh. I wish I'd used the solid black jersey like I started to and saved this fabric for something else :(

When I first posted about being iffy on it, someone suggested hacking off the skirt and making it a top. Mehhhh. I'd likely give it away before I do that.

I realized with this make (and actually with the Cashmerette Appleton too!) that I'm just not into to true wrap dresses. With the Appleton, I kept asking myself, "why don't I like it?" but that may be it. This dress, being already in the 'not-loved' pile, annoyed me every time I went to put it on. (I tried it on several times over the last 2 months trying to change my own mind!)

I'll stop being debbie-downer now. LOL!

Drama queen!

I sewed my 'normal' Burda combo of sizes - 40 for the neckline and shoulder, 42 through the bust and waist. I used a 42 front skirt and 44 back. Looks like I need to start adding a wedge to the back of skirts/dresses.

I used a binding on the neckline instead of their facings - no way was I using facings in a jersey knit! I like the pleating and the asymmetric skirt front!! Also, I chopped off the sleeves after sewing them. I've mentioned before that I rarely like full-length sleeves on tops (especially knit tops).

Other than that, it was actually a pretty straightforward sew. Remember to clearly mark your pattern pieces - left front and right front are different and the shapes make it tough to distinguish top from bottom!

Let's move on to a LOVE, LOVE, LOVE! :-D

I was inspired to make a black maxi dress for layering. Not sure if I saw something or what...but I started looking around online and this is pretty much what I had in mind, without the 'nakedness'!

Tried & true M6886 to the rescue! :) My Love Affair With Sewing sewed this version in a sweater knit and like me, she normally used a binding on the neckline of this pattern but opted for the turn-and-stitch method the pattern recommends. And used her coverstitch to do so.

I decided that's what I'd do too! And because many sweater knits can be quite open and drape-y and stretchy(!), I decided I needed to practice. My serger required the differential be turned WAY up to feed this through evenly. I clicked up the differential on the coverstitch, and actually made a little sample neckline:

It stretched out a little bit and so I cranked the differential up a little more...PERFECT!

I always have a small bit of extra fabric in this pattern in back but it doesn't bother me enough to make me add a CB seam to the pattern. It's less of an issue in heavier fabric.

The other thing...I bought 4 yards of fabric back in April, along a bundle (and this was actually the same order that I got that awesome plum suiting!). The bundle had 2 yards of this fabric in it. Doh! So I have more black sweater knit projects coming. LOL!

Laying it out was a little bit of a headache but it has a slight ribbed texture to it which helped GREATLY.  The rest of the construction was easy peasy because 1) I've sewn this a million times (normal size 14/16/18 blend for neck & shoulder / bust & waist / hip). and 2) serger + coverstitch. Fast, fast, fast. Not much to discuss via details...I used clear elastic in the shoulder seams and sewed it at the 'out of the envelope' maxi length.

And YES, it is a bit sheer but I purposely made it to layer over something! I'm wearing a black knit cami and black leggings. I've already worn this outfit and every time I look at the dress I get excited. Win.

NL6530 is still stalled. W.A.H.! I started tracing out the jacket from Burda 12/2017 and it's so many pieces. Ughhhh. I have a few more to go but I temporarily moved on to my knit loungewear mini-wardrobe and sewed the leggings from S8424 (2 pair).  I will likely save the blogging so I can group all of the pieces from the pattern in one post. The blog will likely get pretty busy over the next few weeks. But, I love this time of year when everyone starts to wrap up their hits and misses! Makes for tons of blog reading - keep 'em coming! :)

Burda Challenge: 10/2017 #127

I kind of hemmed and hawed over my October Burda project. I liked several of the dresses but just didn't "need" them. And then I liked the cool top with the integrated tie waist. But I cannot find any fabric in the stash that I really want to use so I figured I'd better let it go for now. I don't want to force it and end up with a garment I don't really like or won't wear (ahem; looking at you nice 8/2017 wrap dress from nice black & white fabric that gives me the sads when I put it on). (also, I took pictures of the dress and still don't like it. It's been almost 6 weeks though so I'd better review it. Soon.)

I fell in love with this very simple top/tunic immediately!

I've always used a 40/42 on top for Burda and figured the plus 44 would be too large. Then I wore the top I made for the PR Sewing Bee, remembered I had a chunk of fabric left, and wondered if I could squeeze this top from it. The pattern calls for 1 3/4 yds of 55" fabric which is closer to 1.5 yards of 60" fabric-I had 1 yard and a large scrap. They had you mirror the pieces and cut single layer. I decided that if I used 3/8" seam allowances instead of 5/8" I'd be able to make it work. And I did! Without using the scrap piece!

Regarding the sizing, I figured 1) it's a "sweatshirt" so a little oversized is fine and 2) I just measured into a 46 on bottom vs my "usual" 44. I graded the neckline and shoulder to a ~42 and traced a 44 for the rest. I added 3/8" seam allowances throughout.

This was quick work on the serger and coverstitch (WHY DIDN'T I BUY A COVERSTITCH SOONER!?!?). You can see it's a very simple construction; sew the shoulder seams, hem the neckline, attach the lower front and back (the fronts cross over slightly), side seams, zippers, hem the armholes. I hemmed the armholes last...if I did it again I'd just coverstitch those while it's still flat.

I like their styling with a long sleeved tee. This is the only one I own and it's too small.

I'd just added 'long sleeved tee' to my sewing list. 

I bought these zippers in my last Wawak order for this top. I was going to use the animal print knit I used for V9022, which the weight of that fabric would've worked nicely. The sweatshirt knit must have some rayon in it - it drapes nicely and it wrinkles if you happen to share the same airspace with it.

Somehow the details of the line drawing escaped me. This happens to me a lot. LOL! It tapers in toward the hip. Whyyyyy Burda?! Why!!!

Yep, totally just like the line drawing. Doh.

So mine is snug across the butt and gets hung up.

I took the pic on the left and was like, eh, it's okay. But the picture on the right is totally my normal posture! LOL! I had a New Year's resolution once to try to correct my posture. Fail!

BUT, this is totally a casual at-home type of garment for me. No judgment here, just my own personal comfort level...I don't do athlesiure. Lounging at home - yes, please! And I definitely need more loungewear. I've been saying it for FOR-EVER! I'm going to make it happen this time though. I have a loungewear mini-wardrobe planned!! :) Oh, all that to say that I'm not happy it's snug across the butt but it isn't a deal breaker. 

I could have sworn the model was drinking coffee in the shot and my mug of coffee was there and...

...I went and checked and nope. She has her phone in her hand! :)

NL6530 is stalled. I have to do some unpicking so wahhhhhh. This morning I started tracing the jacket from the 12/2017 Burda. I hope to get those reviews up while I'm working through the jacket. And I made my black sweater knit M6886 though and luuuuuurrrrrve it.

As always, more later!

Burda 3/2013 #140

I love these pants. I know I say I love a lot of things but I really, really, really love these pants. Okay I really, really love them. Less one "really" because the fabric is decent but I can only imagine if I had used something a little nicer. Ahhhh. So these are already on the 'must make again' list.

I mentioned seeing a pair of pants that I couldn't get out of my mind. My kids' cousin's mom (haha) had them on and I was so smitten. She bought them so long ago she said and can't remember where she got them. I went straight to Burda because, Burda. This pattern isn't *exactly* right -- these cut back in after the hip whereas the inspiration pant was a true trouser fit. It hit the hip and went straight to the floor. But I am so happy with the fit on these that that's okay.

My fabric is an RPL (rayon-poly-lycra) suiting from Fabric Mart in a plum color. I also had a cut of plum crepe and THAT fabric was the color I thought THIS fabric was. This is a bit more red than the other and I was very dubious when I first pulled the fabric out. But thankfully, I went for it anyway!

I usually use a size 44 for Burda pants but went for a 46 as I'm currently fitting in the middle of the two. I apparently have some extra padding! I measured everything and decided I didn't need to add to the back rise at all. I traced the front crotch curve at the size 44 mark and removed 3/4" via a wedge. Where I would normally add back to the side seam what I lost from this adjustment, this time I did not. I trued the CF and proceeded.

I only had 2.5 yards of fabric and thought I'd have issues fitting the pattern pieces (they say 2 yards and that is accurate if your fabric is closer to 60" wide). I decided to use 5/8" side seams and 3/8" everywhere else.

Forgot about the CB zipper. I had a 3/8" seam allowance back there and had to make it work. So my zipper installation isn't perfect, I have some of the tape peeking through. Womp womp.

I took a few pictures of the process of sewing the curved waistband. First, I chalked the seam line around the curve and sewed that before sewing the rest. I used a very small stitch length so I could navigate the curve easily. After sewing, I use my seam gauge to check the that the seam allowance is correct and then sew the rest of the seam. Then, I notch the curve...

And yes, I did have to redo a section on the other half!

and then trim it down.

After turning it out, I use my hemostat in the closed position to smooth out the curve, and then press!

ta-da!

I used my new favorite, the FM interfacing. The pattern called for interfacing waistband and facing so I went with the lightest weight option.

I was SO CONFUSED on the waistband instructions!!! I'd brought the magazine with me to our MinneSEWta meet up and intended to ask a fellow Burda user what she thought...but totally forgot. I finally decided to tackle it and just slowly went through it sentence by sentence. I didn't get as clean a finish inside as I'd like, but I get what they were instructing now.

The front waistband overlaps. They have you sew waistband and facing together first and then attach. But you have to attach the outside of the waistband, that facing, and the outside layer of the inner waistband while leaving the facing of the inner waistband free. It was very weird because once you're outside of that few inches on either side of center front, it's a "normal" waistband application. It took some finagling and I'm not even sure it's worth it! LOL! I slip stitched the upper curve but now I'm torn if I should remove the stitching or if I should slipstitch the entire thing down. If I made them again I'd just use a normal waistband.

I wasn't sold on the butt zipper but I'll take that over a side invisible zipper any day. I hate invisible side zippers.

I basted the side seams and tried them on and YAYYYYYY! I got the seams sewn and got everything pressed and did a blind hem by machine, and attached the facing to the zipper tape by hand.

And then proceeded to try them on a ton of times while bemoaning my inability to get photos. I finished these on SUNDAY!! The only reason I was able to get photos today is because I'm working from home. Because my car is in the shop. Because apparently Ford SUCKS so my transmission control module and clutch died. Even though I tried to get the KNOWN issue repaired several times. And they kept telling me it wasn't bad enough for Ford to repair. Even though there was a class action suit over the issue (which has been settled and is pending final appeals, etc).  So yeah, that's my day! AND THEN I was unable to find my remote. So I had to use the timer. Snap. Walk back. Snap. Walk back. WAHHHH! :)

I love it with the black and white sweater but not with these shoes. So I changed shoes and tried another top :)

my top is RTW...

I compared this crotch curve to my TNT V9032 and it was a very close match!! Also, Burda didn't suggest it (and they normally do...maybe only for fitted pants?), but I stretched the back inseam a bit. It really makes a difference.

Lastly, I added and used a 1 1/4" hem allowance as I knew I'd wear these with heels.

November Wrap-Up and Upcoming Plans

This month I sewed:

• Vogue 9022 dress in black/white sweater knit
• Burda 8/2017 coat in red wool fleece
• Infinity scarf in plaid cotton flannel
• Ottobre 5/2017 sweatshirt in ivory ponte (for my daughter)
• Burda 11/2017 skirt in caramel/cream wool blend suiting

Favorites: I had a great month!! I really love all 3 garments (for me) that I finished!

Accomplishments: I will say it sure was something cutting into a perfectly made sweatshirt but in the end, it turned out so cute! Alls I got is a bathroom mirror selfie!

FAILS: None this month unless you want to count my not loving the flannel scarf with the coat. I have worn them together though.

What's next...so many wants...I am really trying to stick to adding the basics that I need. I'm going to do so without focusing on SWAP. I keep pulling stuff out and putting it back trying to figure out my next project. I think forcing myself to think in terms of the SWAP was a little stifling. Even though, as I mentioned, the majority of things in my SWAP were already planned items from my fall/winter sewing list posted in October. I've already made 5 or 6 items on that list.

I have a lot of clothes. Duh, right? (I have a lot of storage too!) But as my sewing has improved and fabric purchasing too, I'm holding on to things much longer than in the earlier part of my journey. So for the rest of fall winter,  my focus will stay on basics. It's me so there's no way I'll make it without any "shiny" creeping in, but I will really be planning to sew from this list.

Black is one of my neutrals. I need a black skirt, trousers, dress and jacket. I need a light colored jacket, more solid colored dresses, a casual pair of pants (that aren't jeans), loungewear and outerwear.

Pants
Simplicity 2700, a TNT, in taupe RPL. For summer and fall I was all about my slim fit ankle pants! I wore a pair of my S2700 pants recently and now I need MOAR pants!! :)

Burda 3/2013 (it's a plus pattern) trouser in plum RPL suiting. Over Thanksgiving, I saw a pair of flat front, wide legged trousers and I had to have something similar!  These are already traced off, seam allowance added. I am leaving off the pockets so they should go pretty fast.

Vogue 9032, my TNT, in black wool blend suiting.

Burda 7/2017 in a tan suiting. I like the idea of this casual pant in a suiting. We'll see!

Birkin flares in a medium blue that really gives me a 70s vibe. My first pair of Birkins are a favorite but I messed up on the zipper and so I can only wear them with longer tops. These will be pushed though. Perhaps February or March. Partly because I doubt I'll wear them much during winter and also because denim is particularly hard on my hands, even before the injury.

Skirts
Butterick 5760, my TNT straight skirt in black wool blend suiting lined with Bemberg.

Top/Skirt
I almost listed New Look 6530 a dress but it's a top and skirt! I'll use a navy Ponte. I'm still deciding on the contrast. What do you think?

Dresses
Burda 6853 in black sateen with lace accents as on the pattern envelope.

McCall's 6886 in a maxi length in a black sweater knit. I got this idea and now I gotta have it.

SOMETHING with my black floral rayon challis. I want to wear this fabric! LOL!

Toppers
Burda 11/2007 in black wool blend suiting. I muslined this awhile back and cut it out and started sewing it in a different suiting. But then I decided I wanted the black one to be the longer view with pockets. I'll have to trace it and make the adjustments again. Boooooooo!

Burda 12/2007 in winter white boucle. I'm excited about this one!

Vogue 1569 in the striped boucle that I went gaga over.

Loungewear
Burda 1/2018 slouchy tee in burnout jersey.

PJ pants, fabric to be determined.

Simplicity 8424 loungewear. I have fabric for all 3 tops and 2 pair of leggings.

Outerwear
My outerwear plans are major! I have 3 pieces I want (whew!). I plan to tackle one per month.

February
I really want the Clare coat.  I do not own a black coat aside from my down coat. Plus, I already have everything for it! Wool, lining, gold piping (!) and a 'gold' zipper.

March
It will still be winter here but we'll start to have random warmer days towards the end of March / beginning of April. I can't stop thinking about Burda 8/2017. And I decided it HAD to be navy. And then....the skies parted and there was a 'By The Piece' navy wool melton at Fabric Mart. 2.25 yards for $21. So yeah, THAT is happening. I will be extending the sleeves to full length though.

April
I need a new trench coat! Mine has been too small since forever but it was my best option in spring as a dressier jacket.  I have the vintage Simplicity pattern. It's a size 16 but it may still be too small because vintage. We'll see how the muslin looks when the time comes.

I loved the Named Isla but they no longer offer a print version and don't offer a copy shop option. I will not pay $20+ for the PDF and print and assemble tiles...Too much.

Otherwise there's Burda 11/2012. They have SO many classic trench coats in plus sizes. The straight sized ones are more 'trench-like'. I know I can adapt and add features but I don't wanna! I even like the angled storm flaps here. And it has a collar stand! I don't WANT to trace a Burda either, but it's Burda and I know it will work.

I'd planned on sewing Simplicity 8470 or the Grainline Cascade. I didn't have a winter coat that was casual. I have a couple of jackets but no coats. I was going to hang with my nephews and had on my denim overalls (love them!!) and all of my winter coats felt FAR too dressy. But I was out and about one day at lunch and saw this coat and was like, this is IT! I did not want a traditional puffer with it's shininess. I was so excited! I tried on the Large and...

...Oh. Well that's a little snug. I put it back, dejected.

But then I found an XL! WINNING!! So I will be saving my black/white/metallic herringbone coating for another day! :)

So to recap, I hope that over December and January (including my 12 day staycation at year end), I can sew:

4 pairs of pants
2 skirts
1 top
3 dresses
2 blazers
1 other topper

And then the loungewear items, which will take way less time on a per-item basis than everything else! I'll probably sneak pieces in between other sewing.

2 pair of leggings
1 pair of pajama pants
4 knit loungewear tops

That was pretty epic!

Can you believe it's DECEMBER already?! How did that happen?? 2017 is almost over!