July Wrap-up and August Plans

Well this month was almost bust! But both projects were a win so there's that.

• McCall's 6886 dress in striped  jersey
• Burda 1/2017 athletic pants

Accomplishments: I used my new coverstitch!! When I bought my serger it took me 4 months to use it! I was a newbie...but still. I was so eager to get going this time!

I had to travel back home (Chicago) this past week...

Amazing view of downtown from my room <3

10.25% sales tax!!!! :-O We don't pay tax on clothing and shoes here in MN.

So even though I cruised the Magnificent Mile and found stuff I wanted, I couldn't pay an extra 10% for it!

I did get this though! #FlyTheW #GoCubbies!

Wilson the cat was SO happy I came back home.

Update on my hand: Mehhhh. It's now been just over 3 weeks. Sad face.

See the wonkiness between the ring finger and pinky (right hand)??

The circled area is where it still hurts. 

Sighhhh. I want it to get better :(

August Plans Wish List (written before I realized my frigging hand was never, ever, EVER going to heal. WAHHHHHHH!)

I almost always move on to fall sewing in August with the occasional end of summer project thrown in. Our average high temp for September is a balmy 71 degrees and that drops to 58 by October. I like to be ready! One wardrobe hole is outerwear. Well, I have a TON of outerwear (lol!!), but not what I want for those in between times...Even now in the dead of summer with 85-90 degree highs, it is often about 65 degrees when I leave home. In early fall that can easily be low to mid 40s. So for August (and September), I want to focus on outerwear.

*Finish Butterick 6141 jacket

*Liesl & Co Woodland Stroll cape
I have this blue and brown plaid cotton coating that I love! I bought it to make a blazer but it is  coating and way too stiff. Should make for a perfectly casual little cape!

*Burda 8/2017 sweater coat (this coat is unlined and intended for fleece type fabrics)
IMO this has to be in a solid color. I fear that any print/pattern will read "bathrobe" on me.

*Burda 8/2017 jacket
I have a camel/caramel? piece of coating that could work.

That should do it, right!?!? :) The butterick just needs the collar added, lining bagged and closures. Shouldn't take too much time to finish. The cape should be quick and the sweater coat too. Well that's what I'm telling myself! Hahahaha!

I (really!) want a new trench coat, and have fabric for it too! But I do think I'm going to stick with the plan of pushing this to spring. I'm very excited about the plans for fall!

I am in LOVE with the Named Isla trench but put off buying it and now they aren't printing it anymore. And, there is no *bleeping* way I'm assembling a PDF for that coat (no copy shop option from what I can tell). I'll have to use what's in stash or find another trench pattern.

The Closet Case Clare is still planned. I was holding out hope that there would be more non-tester reviews by now but I haven't seen much. This is intended to be more coat than jacket, even with the bracelet sleeves, because it isn't "cold" here until we're flirting with single digits. Well, you just don't allow yourself to think of 20 as cold when you know you've got another 30-40 degrees (or more!!) to drop!

So because I want that for cooler weather and am using a heavier wool and plan to line with Kasha...I'll bump it to later. Hopefully I'm not all outerwear'd out. :)

We'll see how far I get on these plants and how much OOH! SHINY! interferes. if my hand ever returns to normal. (pinching motions or anything requiring my whole hand to grip hurts. So both shears and rotary cutters are a no for now)

Pattern Repeat: McCall's 6886

Still no sewing :( It's been 20 days. Unreal! My hand has improved quite a bit --I'd say I'm 75%-- but is nowhere near healed. I don't know what's normal for a hand sprain; most everything I find is about wrists or fingers specifically. I may follow up next week if I'm  still unable to perform normal day-to-day tasks!

So I'm sharing the 8,132nd McCall's 6886 that I made and wore to the Twins game on my birthday! LOL!

I've made this so many times already that I knew it would be super quick. Even with stripe matching it took maybe 90 minutes and I made it the night before.

I have this cut out in a size 14 neck/shoulders, 16 bust/waist and 18 hip. This time, I used the longest view. The fabric is an amazing jersey from the precuts that were at FabricMart this year. I wish I would have bought one of everything because I love every single cut I've sewn thus far!

I don't want to belabor the point on stripe-matching; there's a gazillion tutorials and tips/tricks out there.

 

I use notches and the l/s lines to line things up.

 

Have to be extra careful when cutting on the fold that things are straight.

 

And since I typically use the serger to construct jersey knits, I check that everything is good to go.

I got it right on the first try here - very rare! :)

 

 

 

Not too shabby!



I've NEVER bothered much with trying to line up sleeves. This time I did and did okay. I did realize something though...

When I participated in the FabricMart challenge, we caught some flack week 1 for our "horrible sleeves" on our Grainline Scout tops. 1) I think that pattern sucks. I tossed it after the contest. 2) The criticism came because the blogger assumed we were chosen to compete because we were supposed "experts" or something. Nope, it was all in good fun! But from that, I did gain something! She'd mentioned that many sleeves don't have enough height in the cap. I'd not given it a ton of thought until more recently, and then worked hard to match this sleeve and finally got it.

If there was another inch in the cap height, the striped would match all the way. The stripes on the sleeve would be perfectly horizontal as well vs. slanting upward. Not a huge deal for casual wear...but I am curious to test it out. I have enough of this fabric for a t-shirt and will use my TNT M6964. Not sure when...but it's a plan.

 

This pattern calls for a turn and stitch neckline but I've never finished it that way.

I measured the length of the opening on this scoop version and then depending on the stretch in my fabric, lengthen or shorten as appropriate. I cut the strip at 2 1/2" which gives me a ~5/8" binding.

 

at the game!

 

I didn't get any type of decent photo but again...I've made this pattern so many times before!

 

I love the fit of this pattern! I'd better buy a back-up copy at the next sale.

 

I've also bought a little RTW that makes my heart sing! I was going to a concert last minute and wanted something cute to wear. Surprisingly, I saw NO jumpsuits out 'in the wild'. Lots of rompers still...and ALL the cold shoulder / dramatic sleeves. The cold shoulder ain't leaving anytime soon.

I wanted to try this top on but my big a$$ head could not fit through this opening.

supremely amusing!

But this top was a winner! AND it's a bodysuit so extra, extra points.

So Simplicity 8385 will definitely happen before summer is out. I was unsure about the style on me but obviously, I can rock it!

Back in April I was looking for overalls and finding nothing. I tried to leave these in the store but I just love every single tiny detail about them so they had to come home with me and be my pretty!!!! I wore them on Sunday and just did not want to take them off!

No, I'm not wearing a shirt - sorry (not really).

Which is why there are no photos of the back! LOL!

The leg has a boyfriend cut which I love. I went down a size because I didn't want saggy diaper butt. So they are fitted through the waist and hip and more relaxed through the leg. Adore!! (so I don't say again that I love them!).

I feel sad (on the inside!) that I can't sew right now. Sigh. Hopefully August is productive. I want things!!

Burda Challenge 1/2017 #106

*Often when reviewing a Burda pattern someone asks about linking to the pattern because they can't find it.  Burda's website is awful. I cannot say I'll always link to a pattern because Burda's site is ridiculous (did I say that already??). I wished you could search THEIR site with THEIR naming convention, but you cannot.

In the search box enter the month and year like "01/2017" and then find the pattern.  Sometimes, Googling the name like "burda 01/2017 #106" works...sometimes it doesn't! LOL!

But all of the monthly magazine patterns are on the website, just beware that it sometimes takes well into the month for the newest patterns to be available. (e.g., not all of July is up yet)

Pattern Description:
Women's running leggings

Pattern Sizing:
34-44. I used a size 44, my standard for Burda bottoms

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Well...

Hahahahaha!

Shameless, shameless copy! I happened to have athletic knit in the stash in these 3 colors and grey. So it was just meant to be!

Were the instructions easy to follow?
They were. The pieces fit together well though because, Burda. I did NOT read the directions for the ankle zippers or waistband finish since I was going to detour from the pattern there.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
They're CUTE! Although, on the body, I like the contrasting insert much less than the pattern photo.

Soooo never realized how much my knees rotate inward! sheesh!

For most, a pocket is important and these are lacking. I made this belt thing awhile back so now I'm not worried if exercise bottoms have a pocket or not.

I honestly do not remember how I constructed it but
1) its a tube (there isn't a true pocket)
2) It has one seam in back
3) it's folded over  and seamed and the zipper is in the seam

I think I must have inserted the zipper, sewed the remainder of that seam, then closed it up on the short end, turning it through the zipper. Does that make sense?? IDK! lol!

I know I measured just smaller than my waist and used the same black knit as the pants, it's thick with a heavy stretch.

Fabric Used:
Blue from SR Harris, black and pink from Fabric Mart.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Lowered front crotch curve 1"
Scooped out back curve about 3/8"  (to create more of an "L" shape)
Left off the ankle zippers (not needed and who wants to fuss with invisible zippers in super slippery knit just for show?! Not I.)
Changed the waistband

I knew I didn't want that bulky elastic waistband finish. I wanted a yoga waistband but worried that it wouldn't stay up when walking (I can't run due to my arthritic knees but  I do take long walks).

I examined a recently purchased RTW pair and the waistband was finished just as I thought it was...there was a separate waistband and facing and there was narrow elastic inserted at the waist.

So I measured and cut separate front and back waistbands and facings. Sewed them together (into a circle) and then sewed the facing to the band. I then inserted 1/2" clear elastic (3/8" would have worked better but I didn't have that on hand) right up against the stitching, folded over, pressed and then attached the entire thing to the pants.

I was too lazy to change thread colors, but it's the inside! LOL!

The wider elastic wasn't super stretchy and it's inserted pretty much 1:1. I would put a little more tension on it next time, and use the narrower width! :)

As you can see in the pics it sits very nicely (and is balanced front to back!) and doesn't cut into the skin at all.

AND! I used my cover stitch on the hems! I was able to thread it and play around a little...I still need to practice...but I knew it was fine for hemming these.

This is after they were worn-sorry!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
YESSS! I probably wouldn't do the contrasting insert again--the hip pieces, sure, but not the crotch pieces. I'd also like to experiment with some of that athletic-like topstitching (flatlock??). I really want a pair in a fun print.

I went on an almost-4 mile walk after finishing them and they were very comfortable!

I am really on the mend now! I think all the swelling and bruising should be pretty much gone in the next few days. I have regained quite a bit of mobility. I think I extended my recovery by stopping the icing/pain killers too soon. I hate taking pain meds though!!

A few days ago, I was able to trace off the Grainline Lakeside pj pattern -- no cutting yet, that motion hurts and a rotary cutter is worse -- but that's okay. I pretty much figured no additional sewing for July so it'll be a bonus if I can crank those out.

Burda Challenge 5/2017 #110

Pattern Description:
Fitted sleeveless top with tie front

Pattern Sizing:
36-44. I sewed a 40/42 combo, typical for me with Burda.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes! Well save for the fact that they used poplin for some reason. Please use a lightweight cotton or something stable but that has drape (e.g. I think charmeuse would be gorgeous)

Were the instructions easy to follow?
They were! Hoorah! :) Hard to go wrong with 3 pattern pieces and what is technically a  very simple silhouette.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I loved the tech drawing when this came out but hated the photo. Thought maybe I'd make it in ponte. And then tons of versions popped up on the Russian site and they started showing up on PR too and then I had to have it.

No dislikes.

Fabric Used:
Cotton voile from Fabric Mart (2.5 year old stash!)

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Used a 40 neck/shoulder/armhole and 42 for the rest.
Made self-bias tape instead of the Burda facings.
5/8" swayback adjustment.

I could add a little more room through the back. I don't think I have additional swayback issues, just maybe a little too snug up top and it's hanging up.

bias tape, narrow hem, serged seams 

(I added 3/8" seam allowance instead of 5/8" when tracing)

I lowered the ties 1" and topstitched them down.

I made a fabric loop for the back closure. Several reviews mentioned not needing the back slit. Well, maybe. I have a big head. Huge. There is no way my head is going in this thing without the slit.

Oh next time I'd narrow the shoulder just a tiny bit. Someone lowered the neckline an inch and I love the result. I may try that too!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will definitely sew it again. It is super cute and in cotton, it's very comfortable. It also makes for a pretty sweet swing-top without the ties.

My hand is still a bit swollen, sore and bruised. It's been a week. My body needs to understand I cannot handle being 'down'. Hopefully I'll be 100% soon.

Sew Sew Def Magazine Review

Just a little late... O_o

I forgot. I kept meaning to review it but I was sewing so.much!! that I was writing posts for that stuff and the review fell by the wayside.

Disclosure: I was provided a free issue to review. I did not purchase *this* issue but of course, thoughts and opinions are my own.

On with it!

Sew Sew Def Magazine

From the About Us landing page:

SewSew Def is published twelve times a year by Mimi G Style and Norris Danta Ford. Mimi G Style has specialized in presenting sewing tutorials, patterns and inspiration for years and Norris Danta Ford who just began sewing six short months ago has dedicated himself to creating a community for men who sew. Now Sew Sew Def will be providing a multi-cultural sewing magazine that will feature sewing projects, articles, and inspiration for both women and men in the sewing community.

 

We're devoted to filling each issue of Sew Sew Def with on-trend, modern and fresh projects along with two digital pdf patterns in each issue. We will be producing fun features from garment construction to in-depth interviews with sew-lebrities,  home decor projects, fun finds, easy projects and step by step instructions.

 

Along with the digital magazine Sew Sew Def also provides content for SewSew Def TV

I received Issue 2, with Ashley Nell Tipton on the cover. I loves me some Project Runway and no matter how much I might end up complaining about it; I will never not watch it!!

The two patterns included this month were for swimwear. While both are cute and I am always yelling GO INDIE!! when it comes to swim and activewear; I likely won't get use from these. Well, maybe the trunks for my son...but that swuimsuit on an almost 40-year old F-cup? Not.Ever.Gonna.Happen! LOL!

This issue also included the Thread Theory Finlayson sweater and Mimi's casual jumpsuit pattern. There was a deadline to download these two freebies that I missed by my own fault. That's okay!!

Neutral:

It felt like a ton of articles. On one hand, there was a mix of how-to and just personal blog-like entries; which is nice. But it also felt like a lot.

Price. It's $10 for a single issue or $110 for a 12-month subscription. I pay $7.50/Burda with a sub and ~$11 (depending on the exchange rate) for Ottobre. Different, I know, magazine full of patterns vs magazine full of content with some patterns. I'm just saying the price tag doesn't bother me.

What could be better:

• Editing. I am not a writer by any means, but when reading, typos, syntax and grammar errors manage to leap out at me. It is a little irksome! Not nearly as bad as when I'm reading an article on the website of a major publication or when I've found horrible errors in books published by huge outfits (that you imagine have a TEAM of editors...) but still a bit irksome. Obviously you want individual contributors to retain their voice; but those articles still need editing.
• I get WHY there will be 1 men's/1 women's pattern in each issue but obviously that isn't a big draw for me.

What I love:

• The ads are really low-key and very well disbursed throughout the magazine. Not overbearing at all.
• The new pattern picks and fabric trends. I love clothing but fashion? Not so much. I don't follow strictly "fashion bloggers" but I do check in on some of the more fashion forward sewers to see what's "in".
• The "what we're listening to" music piece made me smile. I love music. SO MUCH!
• A very diverse body of contributors. I hope this remains this way. There's way too much "uber popular bloggers sharing other uber popular bloggers" stuff. Hopefully this continues and we don't just see big named Indies represented over and over
• All the men's stuff. I love when any underserved market is getting a little light shined!
• Visually - it looks great. Fantastic color and a layout that works well. Technically; I appreciated clickable links going where they need to go. I do wonder if there's a concern down the line of links "breaking".
• I love that they are even doing this! It is fun to see sewing expanding. It makes me happy! I also love that they have such big named sponsors.

I probably won't subscribe but may purchase individual issues depending on the content / patterns. Mimi has a HUGE following with many beginners who enjoy the tutorials and video help that Mimi provides for construction. There's a large focus on easy-to-sew patterns and providing a bit more hand-holding while constructing commercial patterns. This is GREAT because anything that brings people to the dark side into the realm of sewing is fine by me! But obviously, I'm past the beginner/advanced beginner stage and don't require much construction help.

I do think you should check it out if you're interested!