November Wrap-Up and Upcoming Plans

This month I sewed:

• Vogue 9022 dress in black/white sweater knit
• Burda 8/2017 coat in red wool fleece
• Infinity scarf in plaid cotton flannel
• Ottobre 5/2017 sweatshirt in ivory ponte (for my daughter)
• Burda 11/2017 skirt in caramel/cream wool blend suiting

Favorites: I had a great month!! I really love all 3 garments (for me) that I finished!

Accomplishments: I will say it sure was something cutting into a perfectly made sweatshirt but in the end, it turned out so cute! Alls I got is a bathroom mirror selfie!

FAILS: None this month unless you want to count my not loving the flannel scarf with the coat. I have worn them together though.

What's next...so many wants...I am really trying to stick to adding the basics that I need. I'm going to do so without focusing on SWAP. I keep pulling stuff out and putting it back trying to figure out my next project. I think forcing myself to think in terms of the SWAP was a little stifling. Even though, as I mentioned, the majority of things in my SWAP were already planned items from my fall/winter sewing list posted in October. I've already made 5 or 6 items on that list.

I have a lot of clothes. Duh, right? (I have a lot of storage too!) But as my sewing has improved and fabric purchasing too, I'm holding on to things much longer than in the earlier part of my journey. So for the rest of fall winter,  my focus will stay on basics. It's me so there's no way I'll make it without any "shiny" creeping in, but I will really be planning to sew from this list.

Black is one of my neutrals. I need a black skirt, trousers, dress and jacket. I need a light colored jacket, more solid colored dresses, a casual pair of pants (that aren't jeans), loungewear and outerwear.

Pants
Simplicity 2700, a TNT, in taupe RPL. For summer and fall I was all about my slim fit ankle pants! I wore a pair of my S2700 pants recently and now I need MOAR pants!! :)

Burda 3/2013 (it's a plus pattern) trouser in plum RPL suiting. Over Thanksgiving, I saw a pair of flat front, wide legged trousers and I had to have something similar!  These are already traced off, seam allowance added. I am leaving off the pockets so they should go pretty fast.

Vogue 9032, my TNT, in black wool blend suiting.

Burda 7/2017 in a tan suiting. I like the idea of this casual pant in a suiting. We'll see!

Birkin flares in a medium blue that really gives me a 70s vibe. My first pair of Birkins are a favorite but I messed up on the zipper and so I can only wear them with longer tops. These will be pushed though. Perhaps February or March. Partly because I doubt I'll wear them much during winter and also because denim is particularly hard on my hands, even before the injury.

Skirts
Butterick 5760, my TNT straight skirt in black wool blend suiting lined with Bemberg.

Top/Skirt
I almost listed New Look 6530 a dress but it's a top and skirt! I'll use a navy Ponte. I'm still deciding on the contrast. What do you think?

Dresses
Burda 6853 in black sateen with lace accents as on the pattern envelope.

McCall's 6886 in a maxi length in a black sweater knit. I got this idea and now I gotta have it.

SOMETHING with my black floral rayon challis. I want to wear this fabric! LOL!

Toppers
Burda 11/2007 in black wool blend suiting. I muslined this awhile back and cut it out and started sewing it in a different suiting. But then I decided I wanted the black one to be the longer view with pockets. I'll have to trace it and make the adjustments again. Boooooooo!

Burda 12/2007 in winter white boucle. I'm excited about this one!

Vogue 1569 in the striped boucle that I went gaga over.

Loungewear
Burda 1/2018 slouchy tee in burnout jersey.

PJ pants, fabric to be determined.

Simplicity 8424 loungewear. I have fabric for all 3 tops and 2 pair of leggings.

Outerwear
My outerwear plans are major! I have 3 pieces I want (whew!). I plan to tackle one per month.

February
I really want the Clare coat.  I do not own a black coat aside from my down coat. Plus, I already have everything for it! Wool, lining, gold piping (!) and a 'gold' zipper.

March
It will still be winter here but we'll start to have random warmer days towards the end of March / beginning of April. I can't stop thinking about Burda 8/2017. And I decided it HAD to be navy. And then....the skies parted and there was a 'By The Piece' navy wool melton at Fabric Mart. 2.25 yards for $21. So yeah, THAT is happening. I will be extending the sleeves to full length though.

April
I need a new trench coat! Mine has been too small since forever but it was my best option in spring as a dressier jacket.  I have the vintage Simplicity pattern. It's a size 16 but it may still be too small because vintage. We'll see how the muslin looks when the time comes.

I loved the Named Isla but they no longer offer a print version and don't offer a copy shop option. I will not pay $20+ for the PDF and print and assemble tiles...Too much.

Otherwise there's Burda 11/2012. They have SO many classic trench coats in plus sizes. The straight sized ones are more 'trench-like'. I know I can adapt and add features but I don't wanna! I even like the angled storm flaps here. And it has a collar stand! I don't WANT to trace a Burda either, but it's Burda and I know it will work.

I'd planned on sewing Simplicity 8470 or the Grainline Cascade. I didn't have a winter coat that was casual. I have a couple of jackets but no coats. I was going to hang with my nephews and had on my denim overalls (love them!!) and all of my winter coats felt FAR too dressy. But I was out and about one day at lunch and saw this coat and was like, this is IT! I did not want a traditional puffer with it's shininess. I was so excited! I tried on the Large and...

...Oh. Well that's a little snug. I put it back, dejected.

But then I found an XL! WINNING!! So I will be saving my black/white/metallic herringbone coating for another day! :)

So to recap, I hope that over December and January (including my 12 day staycation at year end), I can sew:

4 pairs of pants
2 skirts
1 top
3 dresses
2 blazers
1 other topper

And then the loungewear items, which will take way less time on a per-item basis than everything else! I'll probably sneak pieces in between other sewing.

2 pair of leggings
1 pair of pajama pants
4 knit loungewear tops

That was pretty epic!

Can you believe it's DECEMBER already?! How did that happen?? 2017 is almost over!

Burda Challenge: 11/2017 #106

 

It was 29 degrees this morning...way too cold to be standing outside with no coat!

 

 



This skirt was the first thing I noticed in the magazine. I wanted it immediately and I wanted it in plum. I have a cut of plum suiting that is a very nice weight, completely opaque and with great drape. I think it's an RPL. When I pulled it out, I decided I wanted to make pants with it instead -- I have a pair of J.Crew slim fit pants in a similar shade. Love the color, hate the fit.

Dear J.Crew: Just because I buy a size 14 pant doesn't mean I've suddenly developed enormous calves and ankles. Slim fit my foot.

ANYway. I almost sidelined the project until I remembered this wonderful piece of wool blend suiting. This fabric was purchased long ago from Fabric dot com. It was my first run-in with them. I ordered 3.5 yds for pants and they sent me 2 yds. Sure, they refunded the difference but how did that help me make my pants?! :) I ended up using it to make my brother a hat from Waffle Patterns (in 2/2014) and the rest of the fabric has languished in the stash.

It was the perfect amount of fabric for this skirt!

I wasn't sure what color to topstitch with and chose the cream. None of the browns I had in stash worked quite right and in the end, I wanted the contrast like the magazine version. I could not do that amount of hand stitching so I used double thread and the longest stitch length to topstitch, I like it!

I went with a size 42 front and 44 back which I almost always use this combo with skirts (even Big4, it's 16 front, 18 back). Burda always has a little too much hip curvature/projection for me so I just sewed that area a bit straighter after basting.

I am not a huge fan of petersham waist finishes and decided to draft a facing. Once the front was assembled, I folded it in half and traced the curve onto paper. I made the facing 2.5" deep. I like this depth and I almost always just serge the edge.

My brass zipper is from Wawak, snagged for a whopping $.53!

Their site is slow (they've assured me they're working on it!) but it is SO worth it. How much is a metal zipper at JA? At least $2-3...even a coupon doesn't make it come close! When I place a Wawak order, I tend to 1) look ahead to planned projects 2) look at my fabric stash 3) somewhat like 2, look at the colors I wear. e.g., I have rare occasion for say, a yellow zipper, but I have greys and blues in several shades and lengths. And black in several lengths. And they frequently run buy 2, get 1 free promos.

NAYY, it's just a great resource.

There's not much else to say about the skirt; it's essentially an A-line midi. It went together well, and was relatively quick to sew. I used my walking foot to topstitch and serged all seams.

I like the length - oh, I did add 5/8" hem allowance, which I normally do not with Burda. I hemmed it at 3/4" so I probably could've done my usual. I topstitched the hem but I don't love it. The brown is a close match and it doesn't stand out so honestly, I'll probably leave it.

It does emphasize how straight I am (viewed front-on), which I'm not normally fond of -  I am the person saying YES! Give me things that accentuates/exaggerates the hip - please! - but I don't have time to worry about whether every single thing is the most "flattering" to my body type/shape. I mean, right!? If I put it on and it makes me happy, I call it good! :)

I love wine/burgundy and camel together. But living in MN means I encounter 7,000 Target employees a week, at least, and so the combo always makes me a tiny bit cringey despite my fondness of the pairing.

Actual outfit that day so, excuse the wrinkles! And because I live in the tundra, getting photos in the winter months is HARD. Our kitchen had amazing lighting midday but I did not want to look like a weirdo (which I *totally* do anyway!!) so I was sneaking and taking pics. LMAO!

 

 This one was a winner for me!!

 

Unselfish Sewing: Ottobre 5/2017

Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU for the kind comments on my coat! I love it and with the exception of 2 days, I've worn it every day since I finished it! I get not just compliments but stares - I know they're wondering why I am wearing SUCH a bright coat! LOL!

I had to take a break after finishing the coat. I think working with the wool did a bit of a number on my hand. Last week my daughter sent me a text, "Can you make this for me?". I said sure!  It's a (basic) sweatshirt with large eyelets and wide ribbon through the eyelets. It retails for $79 at Urban Outfitters:

Link to UO

I'd just gotten a cut of cream/off white ponte from Fabric Mart and had her wash it up. I got home and pulled it out of the dryer and OMG! It is AMAZING. It's a viscose/nylon/lycra blend and it's thick with awesome stretch and recovery. I quietly folded THAT up and put it back in stash and pulled out this knit that I was previously hoarding. Hahahaha!

I spent a long time thinking of a pattern to use. I buy raglan patterns for her for tees/sweatshirts because of her broad shoulders. I knew it would be fine but I WANTED to use a crew neck with slightly dropped shoulder.

I was doing laundry and brought my Ottobre sweatshirt up to dry flat (it's wool double knit...yummy). Eureka! This is a crew neck with bands as finishing and has a slightly oversized fit and dropped shoulder!

I traced off a size 40 for her (with Big 4 she wears a size 10). I meant to shorten it an inch but forgot. She's tall with long limbs and a short torso.  I added 1" to the sleeves and should have added 2. I left off the front pockets by tracing the top and bottom front as one piece.

College students are hard to pin down so you get dress form pics - boo! And, on Lily who is a tad bit (haha) bigger than my daughter.

I have a large ribbon stash and she picked this one. I want to find something closer to the inspiration. If not a very narrow stripe then perhaps a gingham. I'm going to look on my next SR Harris visit.

Nothing to see in back :)  The stitching on the back is from the tag I sewed in. I used a very narrow zigzag.

I had a HECK of a time with the grommets/eyelets (what IS the difference, anyway?!)! I had 6 this size in my stash and thought - yay! Luckily, I am smart :-p I went and bought a pack of 10. I did the first 3 just fine, ruined 2, set the 4th, ruined another one, set the 5th, ruined another one and set the 6th.

That's how it goes, right!?

The aftermath! LOL!!!!

I am certain that it took more time to set the grommets than it did to trace, cut and sew (serge) the entire sweatshirt! 

I have to add, again, that this neckband piece is *perfectly* drafted. I almost always ignore neck bindings. This one works. 

If I nail the girl down, I'll get a pic! :)

Saturday night I traced off the Burda 11/2017 skirt and decided I'd go ahead and cut out the front panels. Then, what the heck, I may as well sew them... :) Today I pressed everything, tested a couple of colors for topstitching and got that done too.

The rest will have to wait until next weekend. I'm excited to get this finished!!

Lastly, I have partnered with Circuit and have a shiny new Cricut Maker!! I will have to learn it, I've never used one before, and will be sharing at least a couple of projects here. But I think I'll use it a lot! I'm looking forward to it. As a result, I am back on Instagram. Find me as dressmakingdebacles!

Burda Challenge: 08/2017 #107

Red is hard to photograph

The sun goes down at like noon

The trail wasn't actually the best place for photos because there was lots of glaring sun

I FINISHED IT!!!! I was tired of wrangling fabric and sweating over the ironing board...and then I got the one side completely done, did the belt, and this propelled me forward.

(excuse my messy room)

I was so fixated on the red version from the mag but in the end, the other version is my jam! 

My fabric is a deep red-orange color, not a true red. I love, love, love it! I picked up just over 3 yards of this wool fleece from SR Harris for $10/yard. It is VERY thick, warm, and snuggly...but a mess to cut and wrangle around on the machine.

I used my normal Burda sizing; a size 40 neckline/shoulder and the rest is a 42. I went with the shorter length. You may have noticed the the red version is knee-length on the model but the shorter version is knee length on me! There is a 4" difference between the two; the shorter one has a 37.5" back length and the longer is 41.5".

Often times I don't add hem allowance to Burda patterns. I added a 1 1/4" allowance here - I really like the finished length! I did not add hem allowance to the sleeve.

Sewing the inset corners was tough the first time and the second half was infinitely easier!

I posted the photo on the left on Facebook as I was so proud!

I ordered a spool of Gutermann Mara 100 from Wawak and it was the perfect color - just a bit darker than the fabric. 

I used a size 14 stretch needle  and wound 3 bobbins to prep. I did all of my topstitching with the thread doubled. I finished the topstitching on the sleeve, noticed my bobbin thread was out. There was a 2" piece of thread left! Whew!! 

I'd added a 5/8" allowance but ended up sewing the back with 3/8" so that when I topstitched, there wouldn't be much excess. I serged almost all of the edges prior to sewing because of the thickness of the fabric.

I got the second side ready to topstitch and kept turning and turning...I'd twisted the front pattern piece. I had to under the side seam and when I redid it with the side panel already in place, I couldn't finish it cleanly. Boooo.

As mentioned, I really prefer it without the belt...

Can you see my belt carriers on the side??

I also do not like the scarf I made WITH the coat:

I love the scarf and will wear it...but it feels too...rustic?? with the style of the coat. This Robert Kaufmann flannel is VERY nice though! 

I figure this way, I can choose to use the belt when I need to wear it closed.

(I promise the top is even!)

I think my fabric is just a bit bulky for the belt. I feel like I need to arrange it when I cinch it in so that it doesn't look messy.

Love the sleeve length!

It's so me. I'm excited to add this to my (expansive!) outerwear collection.

November Plans and SG 2018 SWAP

I really should stop writing these posts so early when I know how fickle and easily distracted I am! This list is SO outdated! :-p

November plans:

Okay so 3 of the 5 are still planned! And of course, I've already sewn my first project of November, V9022. (fickle!)

-Burda 8/2017 coat in red wool fleece (WIP)

The Burda coat is slow going. But that's okay. The first half (there are no side seams, there's a side panel) took FOREVER and caused me to break into an actual sweat with those pivot points! The second half is making more sense now that I see the completed section. It is blindingly bright and I LOVE IT.

Once I got to this point I was DONE for the day and didn't even bother to press it at all! LOL!

Because of the neckline, I decided I needed a scarf to match. I ordered this Kaufman flannel from Hancock's of Paducah via Amazon.

Most of my scarves are handmade (made from flannel, crocheted or knitted). MOST of them are printed! haha! I think I have a black one somewhere :) So I'm looking forward to whipping this one up in that awesome plaid!

It was 21 degrees when I left for work on Monday

I am wearing a handmade scarf...

...and a men's hat because I already told y'all my head is big!

-Burda 8/2017 wrap dress in black & white print jersey
I haven't tried it on again :( It is finished though! Hemming was quick work on the cover stitch.

-Burda 11/2017 skirt in camel heathered suiting
I really wanted to do the accent stitching by hand but that is not an option right now.

-New Look 6524 dress in pale grey crepe suiting
I love this dress so much! I may sew this after the coat. I already cut it out and I am temporarily burned out on tracing Burdas (and that November skirt has a lot of pieces) so it may jump ahead.

-Butterick 5760 skirt in black wool blend suiting with Bemberg lining
Next month...

-Burda 10/2017 top (unsure what fabric I'm going to use)
I didn't want this Burda top until I saw Chris' version!

 

I just have to search the stash for the right fabric!

I'm traveling for Thanksgiving but have a quiet month otherwise. I think those 5 4 items are plenty ambitious.

************************

I came across the Stitcher's Guild SWAP 2018 on Ruthie K Sews blog. I liked the color-based rules and since I'd already planned to beef up my work-appropriate-neutrals wardrobe, I decided I should join in. Now, it is intended to run December 26 - April (with some leeway for a garment or two completed prior to the December start date), but I hope to get A LOT of it done during my long break from work -- I was already planning a blazer, dress and pants for that time -- so mine will be completed long before April. By April we'll be at the tail end of winter,  I'll be #sooverit and will be trading out dark clothing for brights, hoping that spring shows up. :)

I will move the Butterick skirt to December and that will be my item that I complete prior to the official start.

L-to-R: Burda 11/2007, Vogue 9201, Burda 6853, Butterick 6331

Butterick 5760, Burda 8/2017, New Look 6261, Burda 7/2017, Style Arc Emily

Burda 6/2017, Burda 4/2014

 

Most of these patterns are representative of what I want while some are actual patterns I plan to use. Shhhh, mine isn't necessarily intended to be a stand-alone collection as it is designed to fill wardrobe holes. But, most everything will actually work together.

 

My neutrals will be black and tan.

 

Black: blazer, straight skirt, black dress with simple shape but interesting lines (e.g. the seamed Burda dress) and an 'interesting' black knit top.

Tan: pants with tie waist (suiting) and trench skirt (cotton twill). I plan to modify it to copy a RTW trench skirt.

For a print I'll be using the black & white glen plaid that FM sent me by accident. That will be for the sleeveless sheath and the other pant.

The other print will be the tie-neck dress. I really love the lines of this Vogue; I'm just unsure if I have enough fabric for tie neck, long sleeves and pleated skirt. I may have to find an alternate pattern.

My accent color will be magenta/fuchsia (which I never spell correctly btw). I want a more casual jacket in the pink and a soft, flowy button-front blouse.

From reading on Artisan Square, there are rules but there is also your interpretation of the rules. So the accent items may be in the same color family but not "match".

The only thing I've added to my existing plan are the blouse and casual jacket. All of the other things were on The Big List of plans.

Are you SWAPing? Do you have concrete plans for the upcoming season?