Burda 4/2019 - More than a year later!

I sewed this jacket April of 2020, and then, there was no need for it. I've been getting a lot of usage from it this spring, and figured I'd better write a review while I have SOME of the details still pinging around in my brain. 

I've sewn 5 or 6 garments from the 4/2019 issue - it is really a winner! I wanted a casual jacket in a black that had some interesting details. It took me awhile to settle but this jacket has such great details while still being relatively simple in construction. And, the modeled pic really sold me. 

I used a size 42 and added an extra inch to the back hip via a slash and spread. I can't remember now if I made any adjustments in sewing seam allowances smaller or larger - sorry. But, I will say that a 42 bust and waist and 44 hip is typical for me with Burda patterns! 

I purchased this black cotton twill from Mood last March for about $25 for the 2.5 yard cut. I'd previously ordered swatches of black cotton twill and then got sucked in by a Rag & Bone sale. DOH! This fabric was much stiffer than the one I originally settled on, and it attracts so much lint. Sighhhhh. I washed it a couple times and have washed the jacket. It'll soften up eventually I suppose. 

Ultimately, I really enjoyed sewing this. Topstitching was such a breeze on this fabric! 

Since the pattern contained a collar stand, I decided to add a throat latch of sorts, purely for decorative reasons. There's no way I'll ever buckle this, LOL! But it was a fun detail to include. I believe the storm flap is lined with pongee poly lining, the remainder of the jacket is unlined, with the seams serged.

lint. lint. more lint.

I used the pocket from Burda 2/2016 #127 (a plus sized jacket pattern). It is essentially a really long rectangle with a soft fold at the top. I used packaged bias tape for the strap detail - I ironed it flat (the ironed side is on the inside since it was tough to really get that crease out), topstitched it, and used D-rings to finish it off. 

Idk what that white stuff is so just look at my top stitching!

I am a huge fan of three-quarter length sleeves, so these were right up my alley. The button and tab are decorative. 

Speaking of buttons! Do you recall when Fabric Mart had all of those notions from Milly and other buttons and stuff on the site? I paid $0.53 for 20 buttons! SCORE! The buttonhole required was too large for my Singer Quantum Stylist 9985 but, I don't remember how I solved it. I know I performed some type of workaround...and skipped the not-necessary buttonholes on the tabs here. 

Like many other things, it fits a little more snug now, but I've been wearing it non-stop this spring!

I'm still looking for larger D-rings for the belt. If I'd planned ahead, I could have made the belt a little narrower to accommodate what I had on hand. 

I still have ALL of the same WIPs as I did in my last post (are they UFOs now??), but I did sew both M7465 and B6621 as mentioned, along with two versions of a newer pattern, S9273. Hey, its just how things go around here! I did a Live on Instagram with Cecily of Sew Creative Lounge and the topic of my erratic sewing came up :-p Give it a listen if you're into that sort of thing! 

B6621 - since completed

I've been mostly participating in Me Made May but not posting regularly. Here are a few faves!

S9273 top worn for a trip to Gale Woods Farm in Minnetrista, MN, and a virtual graduation party

M6964 tee worn for a 10 mile e-bike ride around Hastings, MN 

Burda 1/2021 cardigan/jacket just because it's CUTE

S9011 dress worn for Mother's Day
Burda 1/2021 top worn for an interview

Burda 1/2021 because it is truly one of my most favorite garments made recently and I LOVE it!

(Yes, Burda 1/2021 over and over! There are still garments I need to make from that issue!)

I have a few posts scheduled (YAY!) to review:
Burda 5/2020 silk top

S9273 tees

B6621 and M7465 dresses

And before we know it, it'll be June (HOW?!)! More later!

April Wrap-up and May Sewing Plans

This month, I sewed 6 items for a total of 7 3/4 yards, almost all from stash

I sewed:

• Burda 6/2018 jacket (WIP) - 1.75 yards
• striped cotton boucle from Fabric Mart 
• brass jacket zipper, brass snaps
• McCall's 7542 top (WADDER) - 1.5 yards
• cotton shirting in solid pink and black & white stripe from SR Harris and Fabric Mart
• no notions used due to being a wadder
• Burda 5/2019 dress (WIP) - 1.5 yards
• print poly woven 
• zipper
• Butterick 5760 skirt (WIP) - 1 yard
• green wool boucle
• zipper
• Burda 5/2020 top - 1 yard
• chartreuse silk georgette from SR Harris
• covered button
• Butterick 5760 skirt  (WIP) - 1 yard
• navy cotton lace
• zipper

Favorite: Hard to say since I have multiple WIPs. I'm going to go with the Burda top right now. The color is so pretty and, SILK! 

Fail: The McCall's top and not just because it didn't work out. I liked the idea in theory but it was just too much contrast for me. 

Accomplishment: I didn't go too far out of the box this month. 

I am going to be promo'ing the Paprika Patterns Nautilus swimsuit and popped into SR Harris for swimsuit lining and found a very interesting cotton woven in the designer section. It feels incredible, we'll see how it washes up. I got 3 yards due to it being just 44" wide. I also bought 1 Simplicity pattern and 1 Butterick at recent sales. There are a few McCall's from the new release that I plan to add to stash at the next sale! I am also ready to cull a few more - we will see.

May Plans

Me Made May

I have almost always participated in MMM. I will just pop in my standard message - it is NOT about pictures or "showing off". If you feel some turn it into that well...that's their path. It really is about being encouraged to wear our handmade garments (proudly!). It isn't about making a bunch of new stuff to wear. It isn't about a closet full of handmade garments. It is self-designed and the parameters are up to you. 

As someone who has a lot of handmade garments, I've set various challenges over the years. This year, I am taking it back to the basics. I will plan to wear a handmade garment every day. Appropriate for Covid times, where I've given up on getting dressed most days. 

Other plans

Now that I've created a plethora of WIPs, I will plan to get them finished :)

• Burda 6/2018 jacket needs lining constructed and bagged
• Butterick 5760 v1 needs hem finished and v2 is in very early stages
• Burda 5/2019 dress needs side seams finished, facings sewn, and hems

applique scissors are a MUST for laces - buy some!!!

I'm also planning to stick with this fly by the seat of my pants sewing, for now. I will be swapping out my closet this weekend, so I will have a better idea of what I need for the warmer months, soon. But, it's May in MN which means, wild weather swings e.g., today it is 64 low/81 high...on Tuesday there'll be a low of 39 and high of 57.

I am realizing I really don't need pants :/ I like sewing pants! LOL! I really scored at Ann Taylor and LOFT the last couple of shopping trips (e.g., wool blend trousers for $15.88, casual pants for <$9), so we will see!

For now, I'm thinking that in order to (finally!) finish those WIPs, I'll probably need some breather work in between. 

I'm thinking:

McCall's 7920 for that white fabric I mentioned above. I like the longer version but with 3 yards of 44" fabric, it may not be possible. We will see!! 

McCall's 7465 and Butterick 6621, both TNTs, in a solid color. I really want the Butterick twist-front dress in this navy jersey, I just have to make sure it isn't too heavy for that pattern (I don't want the front to be bulky). Otherwise, I'll use the navy for the McCall's and the Butterick in a taupe-y jersey. 

More later!

Burda 1/2016 + Beginner Sewing Summit

What?! Another Burda make?! :we will pretend not to be surprised: :). I just love that, for the most part, I can trace off my size, make my adjustments, and sew! It is rare that a Burda mag pattern doesn't work out from a fit perspective (it does happen though!), hence their top spot as a fave pattern source of mine.

I made this top for my daughter actually. But then, I forgot to include it in a package I shipped to her. Boooooo! By the time they came to visit earlier this month, the weather in Long Beach had already turned too warm to get much use from it, and they have a tiiiiny apartment, so I try to only send what is asked.

This is a size 38 front and 40 back (I trace a 40 for myself at the neckine and shoulder and grade out to a 42). The design calls for a silky woven for the back but, no thank you! 

I'm not a huge fan of cotton knit, which is why I used this fabric for her! I do love the design so maybe I'll make it work in my wardrobe. 

The front has 4 diagonal pleats, the upper back has soft gathers, and then these cool sleeves. I'm not versed enough in pattern design to know what all the different elements are called so - forgive me! The sleeve is fairly square and pretty much comes down to about the waist on front and back. It wears a bit like a cut-on sleeve - you have that fold of fabric at the armhole (it has to go somewhere!) - and makes for a comfy sweatshirt. 

It has a sort of bateau neckline and the sleeve and hem are finished with bands. I kept the pattern out to make one for myself but alas... :) 

The band does ride up a bit, but that's because it's basically a size+ too small at the hip - I'll live with it. It's wearable as is, I just get poofy pleats at times. This one will definitely make a reappearance at some point.

I was working on a knock-off of a RTW top I saw - it was pink with blue and white striped statement sleeves. Super cute. I nixed it though, just wasn't feeling the sleeve once I got the first one done. Boooo. 

Not the top but similar concept:

My wool boucle skirt was finished, or so I thought. I tried it on, thought, "WHAT is up with this hem!?" and realized I didn't catch it in all areas while blind hemming by machine. I'll have to do that in the daylight :-p AND I cut another version of my B5760 in a navy lace (excited!).

My Burda 6/2018 jacket stalled (this is why I used to sew linings for jackets first!). I have the shell completed but knew I'd need to make some fitting tweaks so I held off on the lining. Now, I'm being lazy. I'll get back to it!

I pivoted and sewed a silk top from the Burda 5/2020 issue (it's gorgeous!) full review to come!! 

Lastly, I invite you all to participate in the Rebecca Page 2021 Beginner Sewing Summit taking place from Tuesday, May 3rd through Friday, May 7th. 

Over 40 classes are being offered, covering a wide range of topics, and providing 20+ hours of content.

Classes are free to attend live!

If you'd like to rewatch any sessions or if you miss a live session, you can purchase an all access pass for $59. My Link

Yes, I will receive a small commission if you purchase a pass from my link. Otherwise, there is no cost or other obligation involved to view the classes. 

There is no other compensation for instructors - we were asked if we'd like to participate and I thought it'd be a fun way to stretch myself and stay active in the community outside from the "here are 35 pictures of the thing I made with no other info about the garment, the fabric, the pattern, or the process!".  Fine - I'm being cheeky :) 

There is a schedule of classes near the end of the page HERE.

My class airs on Thursday, May 6th. 

Burda 6/2018 jacket WIP and more...

I have been planning this jacket for 2 years now! I purchased the fabric, zipper, and snaps in spring of 2019 and have finally gotten around to starting the project.

If you don't know, Burda's zipper recommendations are often for the largest size. So back then, I ordered a 20" zipper. Well, the size 42 takes an 18" zipper! Grr! Wawak to the rescue (plus, I finally purchased a hip curve ruler - they were on sale!). 

Here is where it stands: 

Left and right fronts, and the back, assembled.
Sleeve outseam sewn (still need to sew the side seam)
Sleeve's need to be basted in now that the zipper is in, so I can check fit, then I'll continue on. 

I FINALLY finished my brother's golf club covers. I started with these free templates (HERE), muslined each, and then made some adjustments.  I used my Cricut to cut out the number/letter labels, backed with Wonder Under (though the Cricut Maker can cut fabric without the backing), and topstitched in place. I'd watched a video on YouTube (HERE) by Dormie on how theirs are constructed (and it's EXACTLY how I'd set out to construct mine!), and shared it with him. He really liked the diagonal stripes, so we incorporated that element. 

My brother and I took a trip to SR Harris where he chose the purples for his hybrid covers and the red/yellow CAUTION-inspired colors for his driver and fairway covers. They are lined with a lightweight Polartec water-resistant fleece. 

I will readily admit that I was *this* close to redoing the dark purple one when I saw that it was kind of lopsided! LOL! I think the intricacies of topstitching that 3 is what stopped me!

I had no clue how work with this nylon fabric and it really stalled progress. Turns out that a Microtex needle and slightly looser tension was the right move. They turned out so nicely!

In other news, I had an impromptu cleaning session in the basement, where fabric and pattern storage is. Over time, I always end up with a bunch of patterns and magazines in the sewing room, after random browsing sessions or intentions on sewing something. Then, they end up in random boxes and what not in the basement. I filed everything away and did a tiny bit of rearranging. And, after putting away some cuts of fabric, I reminded myself that I need not buy ANOTHER YARD OF FABRIC :-p

The file cabinets are standard, short, 2-drawer office-style cabinets. My husband works at a private school and whenever there are pieces of furniture being discarded, he checks with me first. The table I use for my knitting machine, for my serger + coverstitch, the desk that was my sewing table that is now a laundry folding table...and these cabinets are all scored for free!

And that machine is a vintage Kenmore 1503! I intend to get it serviced when I have the space to keep it set up. 

Lastly, I have had the pleasure of seeing and spending time with my baby grandson this past weekend! He is 7 months old now and is SO HAPPY and active! He "talks" constantly, he loves giving kisses, and he's always dancing. He still dislikes socks, has never worn shoes, but doesn't mind clothes now. LOL!

I have to leave the room when they're trying to put him to sleep because, "Nana gets you too hyped!" hahahaha! :-D 

Some reviews! Ha!!

Soooo behind, but what else is new!?

To start, here is the too small M7061 on me:

No material changes from prior versions. I sewed a Medium, cut the sleeves as long as I could (I squeezed this out of 1.25 yards of fabric, even with that enormous hood pattern piece!). 

My pattern has been adjusted for a 1" increase to the bicep. I added eyelets for the drawstring and totally forgot that the hood overlaps quite a bit in front. I reduced the overlap and just eased the excess into the neckline - it's fine! 

I added the front pocket but didn't enjoy trying to fold and stitch this (very!) thick knit so I left the lower edge of the pocket raw and stitched close to the edge. I cut a strip of cotton knit super long, serged it (and had to continue to reduce the width to fit the eyelets!), turned it out and used it as cording. 

This one may end up being handed over to my daughter, we'll see.

Awhile ago I decided I just HAD to have this dress from the plus section of Burda 3/2011 (#139). 

Cute, right?!

The smallest size is a 44, which is fine for the lower half but too big up top. I graded down one size at the neckline and raglans - I would ordinarily use a 40 front neckline but figured it'd be fine. I ended up sewing the raglans and side seams with a slightly larger seam allowance, and adding no hem allowance which is somewhat typical for me with Burda. I skipped the tie-belt.

I really fell for the shoulder details and then, they almost killed me! I made lots of samples and end the end, I used bias tape ironed flat for the shoulder detail and ponte backed with a lightweight cotton knit for the pocket (and neck bands too!). After getting the one side done, I refused to do it on the other side. 

Fabric is from Michael Levine and has been in stash for about a year and a half.

Lastly, I saw this periodic table fabric (Kaufman) and HAD to have it! I snagged a yard of it knowing I wanted to make a bowl cozy (finally!!!) and a mask, at least. 

I used a tutorial by Vanessa at The Crafty Gemini and it was simple and straightforward until I went to turn it! LOL! I left one end open from low to high point, which was a good 2+ inches and WHEW! It was tough. I used a solid navy Kona cotton for the outside. 

It makes me happy! I'm so glad I finally made it!  I don't use the microwave often because nothing beats convection ovens for reheating, but when I do need the microwave, bowl cozy for the win! 

Reminder to use MICROWAVE SAFE cotton batting (much of the cotton batting has scrim in it that can be flammable). I bought Pellon Wrap-n-Zap, used cotton thread, and it's worked out well the couple times I've used it. 

We have big bowls but then, it's been a long time of having what amounts to a house full of adults, or at least adult-sized bellies. This is a 9" square, I'll make a 10" next time. 

I finished up my Butterick skirt and have the Burda 5/2019 dress partially sewn. 

I might pivot to starting on a jacket. I have an uncanny knack for starting on very fitted garments right at the worst time of the month where my belly is painfully bloated and I feel horrible.