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Sunday, October 30, 2016

Sometimes "Done" Has to Do

I've worn the items from my "blue wardrobe" several times over and when I got good lighting on my B6244 coat I went for these photos. But I wore flats with the coat and had on heels and I was unstable and sinking into the ground and everything looks all bad and wrinkly but...whatev.

I have to note the jacket and pants at least as I intend to make them again at some point and don't want to lose my notes JUST because I didn't have 'good enough' photos.

Totally going to try Gail's sleeve fix on this one before making it again


Kwik Sew 3558 jacket
Size: medium
1/2" narrow shoulder adjustment plus 1/2" removed during sewing
(Seriously!!!! The shoulders on this thing are RIDICULOUS!)

The instructors for the collar are weird but it really works beautifully! I like the overall style and will make it again.

Notes for next time:
Narrow shoulder on pattern
Remove excess fabric from upper chest and mid-back
Add 1" to waist
Add 1" to sleeves (the sleeves came right to my wrist unhemmed so I hemmed them to bracelet length)
I did not do the topstitching as it wouldn't have shown up in this fabric.

In-House Ellen pants
Cut and muslined a size 14 using a poly/wool blend suiting. They were FAR too small. Sewed them up in this poly/cotton suiting and ended up needing to take them in through the waist. Why I don't always muslin...Actually, my notes say "added width everywhere, didn't need it in final pair. Muslins suck." Hahahaha!

Removed 3/4" from front rise and added 1.25" to back rise
Shortened to ankle length
Removed some width from back leg
I did not use the instructions for this pattern so cannot comment on those. They are fly-front pants. I've made what? 2 dozen or more fly-front pants?? I did my thing.
I did NOT like the waistband. There's a left and a right. I would rather have a one piece back with 2-piece front or more preferably, a 4-piece waistband (hail S2700!) There is a side seam indicator on the waistband pieces. I will turn this into a 4 piece waistband.

I'm not sure where all the back leg wrinkles came from. I did NOT notice those when I first finished these (over a month ago) and wore them. Maybe it's my posture from sinking into the dirt? All my photos from the side I look like I'm tipping forward (iPhone corrects it when you crop the photo!)

I like them and have a plaid pair partially cut out!

 




Butterick 5678 shirt

I've made this shirt how many times now? This one is my favorite! The fabric is from the "men's" section at SR Harris and is a really nice fine but sturdy cotton with just the slightest hint of stretch.

I sewed a size 14C
Added 1/2" to the back pattern piece via slash and spread to cover my butt.

I did make a mistake and sew my continuous laps backwards AFTER checking my prior version (where it's also wrong) :) I want to try the Cashmerette Harrison shirt because even though I love this one it would be better if a) it were shorter (I tried shortening it once but those pieces are so curved I got confused and gave up) b) it had a yoke c) it had a tower placket.

But they're so neat!


Sure it's all wrinkly but whatev...Like I said, these items have all been worn multiple times now! :)

 
I guess sinking into the dirt makes you make crazy face?



And can we talk about progress? The first time I attempted this shirt was in 2013 and didn't understand WHAT the heck was to happen with the collar and collar stand and front band

2013 vs now:



Also, Wonder Tape is my solution for collar stands!!


After sewing the collar stand/collar assembly I attach the stand to the neckline and from the wrong side I press the stand in place (vs. pressing that end up before stitching), hold in place with WT and topstitch from the right side.

I still have, finished but unblogged, a version of S2369 which honestly doesn't need a review. McCall's 7392, Burda 6798, New Look 6230 (probably also doesn't need blogging), Vogue 1465...WHEW!

10 comments:

  1. Impressive progress indeed! Always good to have well fitting & comfy office ready gear. Did you ever time yourself for making a shirt?

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    1. Thanks!

      Not a shirt. I know how long S2700 and V9032 pants take me but not the shirt yet!

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  2. I really like your suit. You are quite the shirt maker.

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  3. Love both of these. Didn't realise KS were large in the shoulders - and jacket shoulders usually seem to work on you without much change. Pants wrinkles down back, yes, if you are sinking at the heels I think this might be what is happening. Love the shirt - and you certainly have progressed from the first attempt :)

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    1. Thanks Sarah Liz!!

      It's my first Kwik Sew jacket so it was new to me too!

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  4. Love the 2013 shirt attempt, I have a very similar one! ;)

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  5. Cute suit. Nine times out of ten, I rarely notice things like your sleeve. I look at clothes that non-sewing folks wear so much that I see "normal" fitting issues. Like, people are constantly in motion when you see them IRL. And when I had that "Aha moment", it took a lot of pressure off of me regarding perfecting fit. My mind is completely blown at "Outwardly Rotated Elbows".

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    Replies
    1. Totally agree!!!! I say it all the time that we make 'judgments' on fit standing stock still and in real life we must walk, sit, bend...MOVE. If it feels good on, that's what counts!

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