Sunday, October 16, 2016

Finished: McCall's 7430

As soon as this one was released I had to have it. I thought the lines were nice and felt it would be fitted like M6886 which is quite a fave!

I initially planned to make a solid version of A and ended up deciding I did want sleeves on it. After I started cutting the pieces out and saw how large the collar piece was on A/D, I ended up going with B. View A/D has a true turtleneck collar and I couldn't see the ponte working well doubled and then turned over again.

I did my normal Big4 pattern grading; 14 for the neckline and shoulder and 16 for the rest. On the back piece I graded out to an 18 for the hip. I did a tissue fit and didn't need to lower the bust point - yay! LOL! I removed 5/8" from the front armhole (I often need to take a dart there) by shaving a bit off both front yoke and center front grading to nothing at the fold line. I also ended up sewing 3/8" side seams at the side back from waist down.

As mentioned, I decided agains the full turtleneck and went with the shorter stand collar. I added a little bit of width to it after taking measurements. I was planning on top-stitching all the seams but this ponte has a bit of a subtle stripe with black and the topstitching didn't pop enough on the yoke in my opinion to make topstitching the other 4 seams worthwhile.  Lastly, I cut the sleeves at the lengthen/shorten line. This was solely based on preserving the remainder of this cut of fabric. WHAT!?! You've never done that?! :)

I adore the shaped hem! It takes some finagling - I departed from the directions a bit and sewed a basting stitch at 5/8", gathering it just enough to ease in the fullness and did a double turned hem. I topstitched with a twin needle.

It's still a little snug across the butt and the sleeves don't feel tight on me but clearly they are pulling. I'll make note of it. 

After I cut the pieces out I was side-eyeing the center front and back panels thinking it was a bit short. So yeah, this is more tunic than dress for me but I really do like it a lot! And it is such a great item for my wardrobe.

I went to see Girl on the Train today, ran a bunch of errands and had a yummy dinner out at a new restaurant. 

I can't believe the weekend is over already though. WHEW! 

Other info:
$7 Fabric, thread from stash, no other notions
Primarily constructed on the serger; used size 11 stretch needle on sewing machine and twin stretch needle for hems.