Friday, October 28, 2016

Butterick 6244: A Long Time Coming

Why yes, yes I do have about 7 other finished garments...but this one was on the radar pretty early on and then reviews were popping up left and right, and somehow my interest in it waned. So glad I revisited it.

A couple of years ago I made a failed version of Vogue 8839 (PR review). I chose too large a size and it was so cute but too big for me. I bought this heavy double knit on a trip to SR Harris soon after to try the pattern again. I never revisited it but soon decided this fabric would make a good fit for B6244.

You know how the bug hits and you have to make THIS thing, RIGHT NOW? That happened this week. I finished my Fabric Mart** project and was ready to move on to the cardigan I owe my friend (it's coming, I promise!!!) but got bit by the bug!

(**This was my final Fabric Mart post. I'll post more later about all the changes...but not right now)

I laid out the fabric according it the pattern layout since it was initially purchased for a shorter jacket and couldn't get the pieces to fit. Feeling dejected, I almost moved on to something else. I looked at the instructions again and realized I was looking at the layout for the plus sizes! It would require far more length because the front would have to be cut single layer. I realized in the straight sizes, the fabric was doubled and laid everything out again.

Funnily, I said, "I thought this was supposed to take 2.5 yards?! Sheesh, I need like 8 more inches of fabric..." I then measured my fabric and, kid you not, I had 2 yards and 9". HA! So yes, another 1/4 yard would have done it. I ended up bringing the front hem right to the very edge of the fabric and kissing the front/back shoulder seams, and allowed the back to dictate final length. I ended up losing about 1.5" of length which is probably fine considering I'm only 5'5".

Clearly the "missing" length is okay! :)

Once I got it cut out I was ready! I told myself this would be a 'slow sewing' project but as we know, "me + slow sewing" isn't a thing.

I cut it out on Saturday and started sewing it, finishing it on Sunday. On Saturday I also took Wilson to the vet, went grocery shopping and took a nap! Meaning, this was not constant sewing all weekend and flat-felled seams, and it still went together fast.

I'd seen LOTS of comments about the front dart. I'm not entirely sure where the confusion lies. It's a pretty run-of-the-mill shoulder dart. It is reinforced, clipped to the point and stitched. The collar is integrated into the front piece so there is some tricky business to flat-felling that seam (nicely!), but I don't think the dart itself is actually confusing.
Not perfect at the corners but decent
I think this is my favorite part <3
Initially I wasn't going to flat-fell the vertical sleeve seam but I saw where someone else had used double sided fabric and I liked how the sleeve looked cuffed back so I went for it. Again, not hard just a bit fiddly. I was able to sew about 5-6 inches from the hem up and then turned it and sewed it the rest of the way. I had to restitch a couple of areas from the right side that bowed out a bit.

It's a tiny bit wonky in some areas

I was >>THIS<< close to making this reversible! I'd read a how-to flat-fell the armhole of a shirt and was going to go for it. But then I discovered this run across the back :(

The time suck on this pattern is hemming. Geez Louise! I watched an entire movie (Two Can Play That Game with like, every popular black actor/actress at the time. I forgot how funny it was!!!) doing a narrow hem on the WHOLE perimeter. My goodness. I also tried to miter the corner but this is about my 5th time trying to understand mitering and I can't. I'll need someone to teach me hands on one day.

Where the front hem meets the bottom hem. Wonder Clips helped here
I was so careful with stitching!

I sewed a size 14 neck/shoulders and a 16 through the body. I initially cut a 14 and then got nervous about the finished measurements, even though I was technically using a knit. It is REALLY heavy and not very stretchy. I could have used a 14 all over but this way I can layer it without worrying.

I did a 5/8" full bicep adjustment and made no other adjustments. I'm starting to wonder more about sleeve fit and may start really digging in there. I wonder if it's full upper arms that cause that pulling at the back of the sleeve (seen above)??

I am really digging it! And it's blue and gray so will really work with my wardrobe well outside of the mini-wardrobe.

The Outtake!
This backyard is so creepy and the way the houses sit (no alley's separating the back yards of houses) I always feel like I hear noises/people/movement. LOL!

Up Next:

I bought new fabric and patterns (I am on a buying restriction now because SHEESH) so I am in a frenzy over what to sew next. But my sewing room is atrocious so I hope to clean up today, which means I'll be super charged to start my next project.

My friend's Swoon cardigan is sewn and awaiting hemming.

Then, New Look 6301 with this new addition:

Oh and in addition to cleaning my sewing room, I pulled a ton of stuff from my closet. Some will go in the naughty box to see if they stick around next fall, others are going straight in the donate box and some may be trashed. We will see.