Tuesday, August 14, 2018

Multiple Muslins (WHO AM I EVEN?!)

I got home from a super-awesome weekend trip late Sunday morning. But I'm getting too old for quick turnaround road trips and spent the rest of Sunday on the couch. Monday I went into my destroyed sewing room (last minute project to take with me!) and didn't have the energy to dive into anything else on my August list. Then wait, my olive M7547 pants...I really want those...

But Big4 pants.

Hmmm.

No doubt my biggest successes come from Burda and V9032 worked so well because of the 'butt princess seaming'. The back of those pants fit so, so well. I had many muslins with S2700 back in the day and do use that pattern still occasionally; but it's a silhouette that's a little different than what I'm currently into.

So I found the weird colored green fabric I ordered last year (it looked darker online!) and cut a muslin. They're numbered for my benefit so I remember the order...though the pics are telling.

Photo #1 is a straight out of the envelope size 18

  • too tight
  • back leg wrinkles
  • not enough length in back
  • too much length in front



I scooped the crotch curve and added inseam length. But they're still too tight and have no additional back length in the rise


Then I ripped open the back to let it separate (you don't want to see that) and added a 1" and 3/4" wedge (I normally add 1" to 1 1/4") and I lengthened the crotch point 

(spoiler alert: too much of an adjustment). 

I also lengthened the darts 1/2". Also the wrong move. If anything they should be about 1/2" shorter than the pattern. I don't know what made me decide to lengthen them...I sometimes shorten Burda darts...Because lengthening bak rise and shortening front rise are normal adjustments for me, I did those on the paper. I redrew the back curve and added to the crotch point directly on the fabric.

I actually went just a tad lower as I neared the crotch point when cutting out this chunk.



They LOOK okay. But as soon as I moved there was weird fabric everywhere. This is when I realized there was too much added to the back.


Suddenly my side seam isn't straight...and I meant to draw balance lines this time and forgot. 

Thinking about the 3-dimensional relationship between the fabric and my body, I decided to try something else. I decided the back was far too angled (scroll back up to the pic of the flat back!) and that I'd added too much. I took a wedge out on the fabric (it's not clean but the effect is clear). I also took out the back crotch seam, inseam and side seam and staggered them with the front so that the back seam allowance was 1/4" smaller at each of these. I only did these adjustments on the left side.


Excuse the poorly lit shot but SO much better! 


The only last bit is that it looks like my inseam is pulled upward still compared to the side seam, just less severely. So maybe I need a tiny bit more added to the inner thigh adjustment (I added 1/2") BUT this could also be a grain issue. I admit I wasn't as careful with this last muslin when cutting. And I was on the phone. I think I have enough of this fabric for a full length muslin. If not full length I'll at least go beyond the knees as much as possible. 

Also, I have a flexible ruler on the way to me, arriving tomorrow. Yay! So I figure I'll have a new pair of pants by the weekend?? :) 

Why am I going through all this trouble? My olive green stretch twill is pretty much amazing. It wasn't particularly expensive ($13.99/yd) but I love everything about it and want wearable pants from this. I also have an amazing piece of black stretch twill purchased back in March for the overalls from this pattern.

MN Primaries were held today!! 


Until later!







16 comments:

  1. Looks like you were the prettiest voter there! Great journey and detail on the pants. Thanks. I know you'll get it all worked out. What I find daunting is keeping track from start to finish of all the necessary changes and the changes to the changes, whew! Do you write them all down or just cut from the completed muslin?

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    1. Thanks Bunny!

      Well with these most are my normal adjustments. But for the other tweaks I have written it down on the pattern!

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  2. You are awesome! I always enjoy your blog. I also learn a lot and I've been sewing for over 60 years!! Yeah, I'm OLD!!

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    1. haha! You are not! :) Thanks Linnea Marie!!

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  3. The fabric for the top you're wearing in the last photo looks exactly like the Suki & Solaine fabric that Fabricmart released for sale today. Did you make that top, and was it listed as a different manufacturer? Inquiring minds . . .

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    1. Hmmm, I couldn't find it on their site.
      I made this (dress) in like, 2014! The fabric was from FM though!

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    2. It was in an email for Julie & premium members.

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  4. I'm always amazed at your pattern alterations and how well articulated they are. I'm sure I did the same thing years and years ago but it's fascinating to watch now.

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    1. :hugs: I'm sure you did! You always nail the fit!

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  5. I had my first baby at 19 too! :o) (15 days after I turned 19) and my last baby at 47- (yup-he was a surprise!!) and he's 14! LOL! I'm tired ;o)
    Love-Love-Love watching the alterations. Now why didn't I think of shorter darts. I do longer, but I need to try shorter! Can't wait to see the finished pants!

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    1. OMG 19 and 47?!?! WHEW! I bet you are tired! LOL!!!! :)

      I had my daughter 2 months after turning 19 and pretty much right when she was 9 months old(!!!) found out I was pregnant with my son. I cried. I cried and denied it to my doc, LOL! :)

      I remember shortening them once thinking about the bust dart correlation. Having a very large cup, I need bigger but shorter darts. Having a very round bottom...hmm, maybe shorter darts work there too!

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  6. Way to power through, I'm so ready for a pants and top block you are a whiz at ready the drag lines!!!

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  7. I hate fitting pants!!!! You make it look easy even with all of your adjustments/tweaks. However, you are going to have an AMAZING pair of pants after all of this. The fabric sounds lovely.

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  8. What perseverance ! I can tell you are headed for success and a beautiful fitting pair of pants. All you photos and explanations are really helpful. Thank you for sharing this.

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  9. I didn't mean to be unknown...I'm not that good on computers LOL take care, Patricia

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