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Wednesday, December 7, 2016

Finished: Simplicity 8216



Let's just get it out of the way now...this top makes my heart sing!!! And this post is full of photos!

Simplicity 8216 is one of many tie-neck blouses in the stash. You can't go anywhere without seeing tie-necks or cold shoulders and I loves me some tie-necks. I chose this one because I have a serious thing for shoulder gathers. AND this one has a yoke!? SOLD!

I have definitely put on weight this fall and was hoping I had the larger size range but nope. My pattern ended with size 14. Which is still my neckline/shoulder size and I had to not be lazy and actually make the necessary adjustments to make the 14 work for my body.  #SewingGrowth

Fit Adjustments:
  • 1" FBA rotated into the shoulder gathers (I'd never done that before and YAY ME!!!!!!!)
  • Because I needed the room at the waist, I didn't try to eliminate the excess added by the FBA
  • I did a slash and spread adding 5/8" to the back piece (1 1/4" total at the hip)
  • 1" full bicep adjustment
Swoon...

As others mentioned, the top isn't nearly as gathered as the drawing makes it seem. It's very slight -  I did an FBA so I have more gathers.

Other Adjustments: 
  • I essentially sewed view B in a shorter length.
  • I cut double yokes and used the burrito method to attach.
  • After getting the side seams sewn I thought it looked HUGE; but then it fit so nicely through the upper body! I then decided I needed waist definition and so the casing was added.
  • I made bias tape for the casing from the fabric. I tried it on and decided on elastic positioning. It was about 1/2" higher than the pattern marking.
  • I decided against the buttoned bands for the sleeves and choose to mimic the waist and do elastic instead.


The Good:
  • It fits beautifully. 
  • The scooped neckline + tie is just gorgeous. I love that peek of skin.
  • The collar goes together perfectly. Just mind your markings on the neckline, yoke and collar. I was in awe at how well it all went together! 

The Bad:

@*()*#!?*! Arrgghhhhhh!!!

I was SO happy at the collar and came crashing down to earth when it came to finishing.  The back facing is too deep as drafted - it's exactly 5/8" off. This error was confirmed by Simplicity.



Also, it just doesn't seem to sit well when the top is flat. It's all funky and crazy.


wonky facings

But on the body it's fine. I have to arrange it when I put the top on -- Oh and my extra large head *JUST* barely makes it through the neck opening -- but once it's on, the facings are fine and sit inside okay.  And yes, I did make sure that the facing piece matched the fabric piece before interfacing and it's understitched, trimmed and graded.

It's the only negative to the top. So perhaps my more experienced sewing friends can help me figure out if I can do something to make it work better. Because this one will be made again.

Pictures!


I mean, seriously awesome!?! Right?! 

Ahhhhhh!! 

Initially I thought I might shorten the pattern for next time but finished? Love. Love. Love. 


HAPPY DANCE! :)

Love the back fit. So much. I just adore it!


I took so many cheesy-faced photos


And then this is my final, dignified face ;-)
Hahaha!

I took some equally horrible lighting photos of my November Burda project so review on that to come soon. I have a busy week or so and then my long work break. My daughter wants a simple tent dress (but from velvet) for Christmas. And then I plan my sew-cation projects! woohoo!