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Wednesday, December 7, 2016

Finished: Simplicity 8216



Let's just get it out of the way now...this top makes my heart sing!!! And this post is full of photos!

Simplicity 8216 is one of many tie-neck blouses in the stash. You can't go anywhere without seeing tie-necks or cold shoulders and I loves me some tie-necks. I chose this one because I have a serious thing for shoulder gathers. AND this one has a yoke!? SOLD!

I have definitely put on weight this fall and was hoping I had the larger size range but nope. My pattern ended with size 14. Which is still my neckline/shoulder size and I had to not be lazy and actually make the necessary adjustments to make the 14 work for my body.  #SewingGrowth

Fit Adjustments:
  • 1" FBA rotated into the shoulder gathers (I'd never done that before and YAY ME!!!!!!!)
  • Because I needed the room at the waist, I didn't try to eliminate the excess added by the FBA
  • I did a slash and spread adding 5/8" to the back piece (1 1/4" total at the hip)
  • 1" full bicep adjustment
Swoon...

As others mentioned, the top isn't nearly as gathered as the drawing makes it seem. It's very slight -  I did an FBA so I have more gathers.

Other Adjustments: 
  • I essentially sewed view B in a shorter length.
  • I cut double yokes and used the burrito method to attach.
  • After getting the side seams sewn I thought it looked HUGE; but then it fit so nicely through the upper body! I then decided I needed waist definition and so the casing was added.
  • I made bias tape for the casing from the fabric. I tried it on and decided on elastic positioning. It was about 1/2" higher than the pattern marking.
  • I decided against the buttoned bands for the sleeves and choose to mimic the waist and do elastic instead.


The Good:
  • It fits beautifully. 
  • The scooped neckline + tie is just gorgeous. I love that peek of skin.
  • The collar goes together perfectly. Just mind your markings on the neckline, yoke and collar. I was in awe at how well it all went together! 

The Bad:

@*()*#!?*! Arrgghhhhhh!!!

I was SO happy at the collar and came crashing down to earth when it came to finishing.  The back facing is too deep as drafted - it's exactly 5/8" off. This error was confirmed by Simplicity.



Also, it just doesn't seem to sit well when the top is flat. It's all funky and crazy.


wonky facings

But on the body it's fine. I have to arrange it when I put the top on -- Oh and my extra large head *JUST* barely makes it through the neck opening -- but once it's on, the facings are fine and sit inside okay.  And yes, I did make sure that the facing piece matched the fabric piece before interfacing and it's understitched, trimmed and graded.

It's the only negative to the top. So perhaps my more experienced sewing friends can help me figure out if I can do something to make it work better. Because this one will be made again.

Pictures!


I mean, seriously awesome!?! Right?! 

Ahhhhhh!! 

Initially I thought I might shorten the pattern for next time but finished? Love. Love. Love. 


HAPPY DANCE! :)

Love the back fit. So much. I just adore it!


I took so many cheesy-faced photos


And then this is my final, dignified face ;-)
Hahaha!

I took some equally horrible lighting photos of my November Burda project so review on that to come soon. I have a busy week or so and then my long work break. My daughter wants a simple tent dress (but from velvet) for Christmas. And then I plan my sew-cation projects! woohoo!

19 comments:

Blacksewing said...

Thanks for pattern info. I plan to make this same blouse soon. Love your blouse and pics.

L said...

The shirt looks great! How did you find sewing with poly crepe?

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

I love how many pictures you took! At least you made them compact and collage like cause you know 85 million pics is my pet peeve! *LOL* Glad you like the blouse and glad you made it work. I can't believe it's only 2 more weeks until we're off work. This year I've just decided to sew whatever is on my sewing list. I'm not making a special one just for the sewcation.

Sew Blessed Maw [Judy] said...

I absolutely love this pattern.. You did a great job.. Looks so pretty on you, the fit is right on.
Happy sewing. Hope you have a wonderful Christmas and a wonderful sewcation too.

Vanessa said...

I almost picked that one up at Hobby Lobby yesterday! I ended up going with S8214 instead, but this pattern is so cute! I think the top looks wonderful on you, and am so glad you love it! It's such a good feeling when you love the end result!

Aisha Johnson - SewCouture said...

Cute top and it looks great on you!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thank you!!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thanks! The necklines are so similar!! Hope you love yours too!!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thanks so much Judy! Merry Christmas!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thanks Carolyn!

I'm so excited for the break! I should just sew from my list because when I make A Big Plan, something inevitably goes wrong.

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thanks L!

I've made a handful of stuff using it and as long as it's a decent weight, it works out okay. I'm excited now though to try silk crepe with this.

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thank you!! I hope you love yours too!

Sarah Liz said...

It really is a gorgeous, fun top. I can see why you like it. And a great idea to mimic the waist with elastic in the wrists. As for the facing, next time draw your own. Can't really alter one that is already attached.

Summer Flies said...

I just found your blog again... nice shirt. I love the style and fits so nicely in the back. Funny I'm just sewing a simplicity pattern that the neck facings are not meeting up in exactly the same way. It is very annoying and even when cutting my eye could see it was about .5 cm too deep at the meeting point.. same as the bodice pattern too. Don't understand!

BobbinsNLye said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
BobbinsNLye said...

So cute - and it is obvious that you just LOVE it! I've been eyeing this pattern... I'm thinking I might need to add it to the stash.

Sheryll said...

That is very cute, and I can tell you love it with all those smiles!
My tie neck blouses have a CF seam and both the seam and split are double folded, then the tie is sewn on without a facing (bagged out along the front neck, turned under and stitched along the back neck.)
I see a silk one in your future!

The Sewing CPA said...

OMG! I love it! Perfect color, beautiful fabric and a great pattern. I'm glad you were able to adjust it to your size.

Lucks said...

I'm so glad I followed your link on Pattern Review here! What a cute blouse! Thanks so much for the review :)