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Saturday, December 16, 2017

Ok, Fine. Burda 8/2017 #109 (and M6886!!)

I have to review this before I forget any of the details about sewing it. I should say, I wore it to work one day this week.

#BlurrySelfie! :)

It's fine...I am not saying anything is wrong with it...just that the vision of pattern + fabric didn't mesh. I wish I'd used the solid black jersey like I started to and saved this fabric for something else :(

When I first posted about being iffy on it, someone suggested hacking off the skirt and making it a top. Mehhhh. I'd likely give it away before I do that.

I realized with this make (and actually with the Cashmerette Appleton too!) that I'm just not into to true wrap dresses. With the Appleton, I kept asking myself, "why don't I like it?" but that may be it. This dress, being already in the 'not-loved' pile, annoyed me every time I went to put it on. (I tried it on several times over the last 2 months trying to change my own mind!)

I'll stop being debbie-downer now. LOL!

Drama queen!

I sewed my 'normal' Burda combo of sizes - 40 for the neckline and shoulder, 42 through the bust and waist. I used a 42 front skirt and 44 back. Looks like I need to start adding a wedge to the back of skirts/dresses.


I used a binding on the neckline instead of their facings - no way was I using facings in a jersey knit! I like the pleating and the asymmetric skirt front!! Also, I chopped off the sleeves after sewing them. I've mentioned before that I rarely like full-length sleeves on tops (especially knit tops).


Other than that, it was actually a pretty straightforward sew. Remember to clearly mark your pattern pieces - left front and right front are different and the shapes make it tough to distinguish top from bottom!

Let's move on to a LOVE, LOVE, LOVE! :-D


I was inspired to make a black maxi dress for layering. Not sure if I saw something or what...but I started looking around online and this is pretty much what I had in mind, without the 'nakedness'!



Tried & true M6886 to the rescue! :) My Love Affair With Sewing sewed this version in a sweater knit and like me, she normally used a binding on the neckline of this pattern but opted for the turn-and-stitch method the pattern recommends. And used her coverstitch to do so.

I decided that's what I'd do too! And because many sweater knits can be quite open and drape-y and stretchy(!), I decided I needed to practice. My serger required the differential be turned WAY up to feed this through evenly. I clicked up the differential on the coverstitch, and actually made a little sample neckline:

It stretched out a little bit and so I cranked the differential up a little more...PERFECT!

I always have a small bit of extra fabric in this pattern in back but it doesn't bother me enough to make me add a CB seam to the pattern. It's less of an issue in heavier fabric.


The other thing...I bought 4 yards of fabric back in April, along a bundle (and this was actually the same order that I got that awesome plum suiting!). The bundle had 2 yards of this fabric in it. Doh! So I have more black sweater knit projects coming. LOL!

Laying it out was a little bit of a headache but it has a slight ribbed texture to it which helped GREATLY.  The rest of the construction was easy peasy because 1) I've sewn this a million times (normal size 14/16/18 blend for neck & shoulder / bust & waist / hip). and 2) serger + coverstitch. Fast, fast, fast. Not much to discuss via details...I used clear elastic in the shoulder seams and sewed it at the 'out of the envelope' maxi length.




And YES, it is a bit sheer but I purposely made it to layer over something! I'm wearing a black knit cami and black leggings. I've already worn this outfit and every time I look at the dress I get excited. Win.

NL6530 is still stalled. W.A.H.! I started tracing out the jacket from Burda 12/2017 and it's so many pieces. Ughhhh. I have a few more to go but I temporarily moved on to my knit loungewear mini-wardrobe and sewed the leggings from S8424 (2 pair).  I will likely save the blogging so I can group all of the pieces from the pattern in one post. The blog will likely get pretty busy over the next few weeks. But, I love this time of year when everyone starts to wrap up their hits and misses! Makes for tons of blog reading - keep 'em coming! :)

















24 comments:

Vanessa said...

I totally understand a vision and pattern not matching with your first dress! I think you look nice in it, and have full confidence that you will figure out what to do with it. The black maxi is a definite wow piece!!! I love how you are using it for layering.

Unknown said...

I really like the first dress -- it looks great on you. I love seeing all the bloggers hits and misses too! I am always surprised by what other bloggers rate as a hit or a miss.

Faye Lewis said...

I feel about the same way that you do about wrap dresses. Love them but can never get them wrapped properly on my body. Your black version of M6687 is gorgeous!

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

Wow! I've felt so all alone in the sewing world because I HATE WRAP DRESSES. Absolutely hate them. Don't understand the wrapdress love...and it comes from experience. I made several of the original DVF wrap dresses (yes I've been sewing that long) and was always annoyed with the wrap...and I was quite thin back in those days.

Love, love, love the McCalls 6886 dress but then since I'm currently making a bunch of these I understand the love! Making it using a sweater knit to wear over other pieces is really cool. Imma have to make a version like that for my daughter.

Graca said...

ABSOLUTELY LOVE your version of McCall's 6886 and how you styled it. Those boots are pretty rocking too. Your version needs to be on the pattern envelope!

Gemma P. said...

Your jersey knit wrap dress is fine on you and its looks sewn very well. I too, do not like wrap dresses because they are designed for thin women. I was always thin until I turned age 55. and my figure changed even though I exercised. I made it to age 70 now, and I concentrate on empire dresses and tops. They hide the rolls. The black maxi is a #1 hit. It is stunning on you. Keep sewing.

wendyrb said...

Wrap dresses- agree! The one wrap dress I wear and like is for the top only, but the skirt is closed. I've made 2 of M5974- an old work horse. The bodice waist pleats are un-closed darts and are aimed to the bust point. Easy to do an FBA. I also use Fold Over Elastic, FOE to finish many knit necklines. Put in "right", no stretching and good recovery after yanking over my head.

MadebyLaQuana said...

I have to try the coverstitch on the best pattern in the world. Great tip about testing the differential feed, nothing like stretching your neckline and ruining your project, The Appleton is on my list, hope I like it.

Doctor T Designs said...

I like the wrap dress, but can totally understand not loving to wear them. The black dress is perfection though - looks great on you!

Tomasa said...

Love that black dress. I can see why you get excited about it - gorgeous!

Jen said...

That black dress looks FABULOUS on you. It's perfect.

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thank you!! It is so hard when an otherwise 'fine' project just doesn't do it for you.

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thank you!

I agree. It is always interesting to hear why people feel something did or didn't work.

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

They are cute but can be a pain!!

Thanks Faye!!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

yasssssss make her a sweater knit version!!!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thanks Grace! <3

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thanks Gemma!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

I just rediscovered that pattern in the stash - I thought I'd gotten rid of it.

I don't mind mock wraps or surplice dresses like this. True wraps just don't do it for me!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Yes!! Do it! :)

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thank you Tomasa!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thank you Jen! I love, love, love it!

Sarah Liz said...

Black yes, wrap no. If you are not into it, you are not into it. I try and force myself to change my mind too, and it never works. I sometimes wear I do not likes if I do not have anything else, but always, always know it is not me. If you have enough Love clothes, why settle for things you do not like. Mind you, the wrap may work on weekends over a t shirt and leggings...

Audrey said...

The wrap dress looks great, but I understand. I never felt comfortable wearing a wrap dress, always ready for the top gaping or the burst of wind skirt flip. Love the black maxi. It is sure to be a wardrobe basic.

AllisonC said...

I love both dresses, but I understand the hassle with wrap dresses, they look great, but aren't that practical in everyday life - I tend to only make faux wraps these days. The styling on the M6886 is fab!