Burda 7/2017 #106 Ankara Pants

Last year, I'd chosen this pattern for my Burda challenge project for July. But then I sprained my hand and never got around to them. 

I was planning to use a different pattern for my "Black Panther pants" :) but when the fabric came and I washed/dried it, I knew it was too lightweight for that pattern. Then I thought joggers...but then I kept coming back to this pattern.  So glad I did.

I'd posted on IG that the back leg looked really wide and I was concerned - well, no need to be. This pattern works!

I used a size 44 and based on the waistband measurement (it's a straight/rectangle waistband), I figured that would be fine. I removed 1/2" from the front rise and added 1" to the back rise (split 3/4" via a wedge and 1/4" by slashing and spreading near the crotch point). I made no other fitting adjustments.

Someone asked why I bother tracing Burda; because THIS. The draft is so consistent and their designs are usually pretty great.

I decide to add black piping to break up some of the print - it didn't make that great a impact, IMO but...oh well.

And now, my DOH! moment...I was in no way going to insert an invisible side zipper. I'm pretty sure all invisible side zippers are evil incarnate. So I decided to go lapped. I like lapped side zippers - a lot! I was basting it in place and thinking, "this is so dumb. why would they have the zipper extend into the pocket area?" stitch... "This makes NO sense..."

Did I stop? No, No I did not. I was doing the topstitching..."So they just have you sew through part of your pocket opening? What the heck..."

DOHHHHHH! LOL!!!!

The zipper was supposed to go in AFTER the waistband. Exhibit A:

The zipper extends 1 5/8" into the pocket area...and the waistband is just about 1 5/8"! Huzzah! lol!

Soooo...I ended up adding two sets of hook/bar closures. And I finished sewing these about 30 minutes before we had to leave to go to the theater. So they aren't the neatest.

The waistband is super cute!! You have the regular rectangular waistband underneath. Then you take this other rectangle that finishes 3/8" higher (wider?) finish the front ends,  fold it in half, and gather the top and bottom. The left goes from zipper to the front and the right is longer; it wraps around from the side seam all the way to the front. You then make your tie ends (again, the left side is shorter) and insert them between the gathered band and the flat band. Now, in a thicker fabric, I might choose to shorten them and just stitch them in place at the front. The waist on these are fitted it just gives the illusion of an elastic waist; the tie doesn't really cinch them

zoom-in of the tech drawing

I LOVE everything about them. I love the print I chose (fabric from Michael Levine by the way!!), the cool little details, the length, I love that they are fitted through the waist and hip and though the legs are voluminous, they work. I love that they taper in a bit and look super cute with heels or flats (they looked cute with my all white Adidas too!)

I will definitely be making these in that lightweight suiting I'd planned on. I think they'll make for a great casual work pant for spring/summer. The Russian Burda site has some really fantastic versions done in fabrics with drape and I immediately considered making them in the white tencel twill I have. That may have to happen this summer! :)

Even though I screwed up when I inserted the zipper, the pockets still work!

This is how I wore them for Black Panther <3 I even sacrificed and wore a cool leather jacket (it was COLD that night! LOL!) so King T'Challa could be on display!

My purple lipstick has become my "going out" shade!

February started out really slow but I've still managed to sew a lot this month. I am working on V9032 and hope to get a quick & dirty muslin of the Clare coat done today. I don't think I'll finish that this month if I end up going with it, but stranger things have happened!