Burda 7136 v.5

I didn't realize I'd made this 5 times now!

v1 is no longer in my wardrobe. It was made from a tencel blend shirting, very nice fabric, but my flat-fell seams failed at one point.

v2 is decidedly "fall" colored but I still wear it. It's a wonderful flannel shirting in a plaid print.

v3 is the almost a fail chambray version that I now wear all.the.time.!

v4 was done in a green gingham seersucker. I did not care for the seersucker. I still have it but I never want to wear it, so it's in the donate pile.

I adore this one. ADORE!

When I made the first one I noted snug sleeves and made an adjustment. When I made the chambray one I almost wadded it because of the sleeves. Chopping them off to above elbow length and adding decorative tabs helped a ton. The sleeves on the gingham version were bad.

LIGHTBULB. The first version was made in 2014. This time I looked at my "sleeve adjustment".

what in the whole entire hell?!?

I don't know what I did or why I did what I did but it was WRONG. It was a super janky bicep adjustment and THAT'S why my sleeves were wonky! WHEW! I put the sleeve back together as best I could, traced off a new one and did a proper full bicep adjustment. Ahhhhh.

I also added 1" to this version. Adding length, I should have added a little more hip room (did we not JUST have this conversation!?!? Why do I forget that the junk needs more room?)

I wore it with the last button unbuttoned 

It's buttoned full here and you can see it's a bit snug on the hip. 

The left photo, and the pic below, shows off my horrible posture. Wahhhhh!

The fabric is a border print (haha! People kept commenting on "the two fabrics") from Fabric Mart. Spotted during sew camp before it was available to be sold. I ended up with 5 yards of it. What? (there's 8.5 yards left, NAYY shirting)

The border runs along the grain but after a discussion at sew camp I learned to do what you like but be consistent. So, I marked front and back accordingly and cut them on the cross-grain. The yoke and collar were cut on the cross grain as well. The sleeves, pockets and collar stand were cut on-grain. All of the pieces cut on the pink striped border were cut on the crossgrain.

I love these cuffs and the plackets. So much

The main buttons were too big for the placket IMO so I found a plain white button to use. I think it works out okay. The border wasn't wide enough for the entire cuff so I made sure it was on the interior of the cuff.

I set my pockets and looked at them questioningly and carried on. And then when I got the side seams sewn up, I realized how low they were. It is not fun to a) unpick pockets or b) sew them back on with closed side seams. Blergh. But I wanted them this time so I pushed forward!!

Everything is nicely lined up!

Pocket is cut on grain.

I did diagonal bar tacks on the pockets because why not?!

The only other departure from the pattern is button placement. I am a 34H. For serious. I never even bother to pay attention to where the pattern wants a button. I place button #1 at the fullest part and space them 2.5" apart on a fitted shirt, 3-3.5" on a less fitted shirt.  I decided to use smaller buttons on the placket and in hindsight wish I would have used the contrasting pink buttonholes there too!

Interior with burrito'd yoke, contrast interior stand and contrast buttonhole.

I mentioned on IG how quickly I got my buttonholes sewn.
1) we have established that I am a fast sewer (I do not rush, I just am that way!)
2) I have a dedicated sewing room which makes life so much easier. I marked the buttonholes Tuesday night.
3) I had about 30 minutes to kill before I had to leave home. In that time, I tested some buttonholes and (in 20 minutes) sewed all 13(!) for this shirt (7 front, 2 on each cuff, 1 on each placket).
4) my machine makes very nice buttonholes and are just a dream on cotton fabric like this shirting.

Lastly, people asked about my collar and asked for tutorials. I love my sewing peeps but I am not a teacher. I don't have "it". No one who knows me ever asks me to teach them anything...it leads to frustration for everyone! :-p

I will say that I can give some steps/tips as to what I* do (there are myriad ways to skin a cat...or sew a collar).

1) I rarely EVER staystitch but you better believe I ALWAYS staystitch necklines on collared shirts. This time I used my awesome new-to-me knit stay tape.
2) I never cut the collar pieces until I'm ready to sew them. I want to prevent the possibility of distortion as much as possible.
3) Once interfaced I trim the undercollar and interior collar stand by 1/8" where I want them to roll. I used to trim the entire thing but found I don't really need to. Around the curve on the collar stand and around the 3 "exposed" sides on the collar. This helps it roll.
4) I mark my pivot points on the collar and decrease stitch length as I approach to make it easier to stop exactly at that point. I also draw in the entire stitching line around the curve of the collarstand.
5) I PRESS(!) those collar seams open. Made SO much easier by my clapper from Carriage Corner.
6) I trim everything but not too much! I insert my thumb into the space and use my pointer to point the corners in and then wiggle until it's nice and pointy. I don't stick anything in there to push it or pull it. :)
7) topstitch the collar - The distance from the edge all depends on the look I'm going for
8) attach the collarstand to the collar. I do not press up 5/8" on the facing as instructed typically.
9) Once the collar assembly is sewn to the shirt, I trim that seam, press it up, and press the facing in place *just* over the stitching line. I secure it with Wonder Tape in a few places.
10) topstitch. DONE!

Clear as mud? :)

I searched for links but found none that encapsulated everything. But honestly, I almost never take a tutorial as-is. When I'm looking for techniques I usually find a few that look good (e.g. the finished product looks admirable, the instructions are clear, etc) and try them out. Eventually, I come up with some combination and tweak it over time. And that becomes "my" method.

When I went to Fray Check my buttonholes (which I always do before cutting them open), it was coming out very slowly. What did I do? I will tell you...I squeezed it. Of course I did!! So I ended up doing an impromptu load of laundry :-p It all came out. Yay! LOL!

"introspection"!

I'm so silly! :)

Up next, I may make a quick vacay outfit (McCall's 7757 - I bought the larger size, L/XL and the pants are HUGE. I think I'm going to use another pattern for the bottoms if I get to them) before starting the navy coat from Burda 8/2017.

And I got my quilt back!!! It's in the washer but I wanted to photograph it while there was sunlight.

I love this pattern <3

backing and binding (hand stitched this time)