Sunday, June 17, 2018

McCall's 7745: A Close Call

This pattern almost got the best of me. You've probably seen a whole bunch of versions of this one and they look pretty good too! The bodice on this pattern stinks.

I'm sure it probably works for someone. But eesh.

It has cup sizing and my 'normal' Big4 size is a 14 with FBA. I chose a 14 C-cup and graded the waist to a 16 and I used a size 16 skirt. I lowered the bust dart an inch and was ready to go!


The bodice was HUGE. I took it in through the front raglans, I took it in through the side seams - twice - leaving the waist size in tact. I didn't want to line it because this challis is sort of heavy. I drafted a facing and then I accidentally sewed the front facings reversed. And sewed it to the bodice. And trimmed and graded it. And understitched it. And then I had to unpick it all. So then I decided to use bias tape and should have just made some. I have no issue making bias tape! And I used store bought and I didn't have enough black so I used red because it should be concealed, right? NO! Not in the giant bodice of giant-ness! Wahhhhhh. I'm not going to lie and say I'm going to redo it. LOL! And I don't think the fabric could take being picked out again.

The fabric I LOVE. I bought this quite awhile ago from Fabric Mart. When I find florals on a dark background I have to have it. I picked up 3.5 yards and there was a Burda I was going to use at first but I fell in love with the skirt on this pattern. Without the drafting weirdness, it's already a so-so for me; true wrap (I just said I don't like them!) and it's a raglan. But the skirt! And the fabric!! So I whined and grumbled and whined and grumbled and kept going. I am glad I finished it but may plans of maybe sewing view A? ehhhh. I'll likely use the skirt again though.

I've seen that "wing" on the back sleeve of most versions

This view also shows an issue I have with the neck ruffle. It's super cute in front but around the shoulder and back it looks like clown suit :(  I LOVE THE SKIRT!!!!

I bought another cut of fabric to make the skirt and then the thought of hemming and gathering that ruffle made me think twice. I have two rolled hem feet; one I bought when I bought a collection of feet for my other Singer and one that came with the Quantum Stylist. WORLDS different. I have avoided doing rolled hems because it was always awful. 

The left is the 'good' one and the right is the sucky one.

I did the neckline ruffle with the bad one and it was SO frustrating. It did not go well at all and I don't know if it'll hold.

Lots of areas where it didn't roll under

I switched to the other foot and WOW!!!  The entire (ENTIRE!) length of the skirt ruffle is perfection. Woohoo!! 

The skirt ruffle is 6 pieces. I sewed them all together and hemmed, and to gather I sewed gathering stitches on two sections at a time - 3 total 'groups' to gather.

It's so ruffly! :-D and you can see my red bias tape :-(
But you can see my new shoes! :-D 

The lower back fit without a swayback adjustment
But again with the sleeve wings and if you can't tell, the back neckline sits WAY away from my neck

As mentioned, I lowered the bust dart and it's still super high. And even with taking in the side seams of the bodice, it's weirdly baggy in areas. 

But it's SO pretty! LOL!!!!!

As it goes with sewing...that black & white Burda wrap dress was perfectly fine, fit well, I loved the fabric but just didn't like wearing the dress. This dress gave me FITS! But I am smitten. 

I spent a lot of time on my hair today and then went outside in what must have been 1,000% humidity and now it's completely flat. Booooo!