Wednesday, June 13, 2018

New Look 6107 & Vogue 9032

I'm not sure how long this pattern has been on my radar but it's been a long time. It's so pretty and feminine but also just a great everyday workwear type of item. I think I was avoiding it because I knew it would work best in something with drape. And drape + fiddly bits = not so fun. But I also knew that my sewing skills should allow me to make this top successfully.
I found this fabric on the trip to Fabric Mart during sew camp. It's rayon but I can't remember if it was challis or crepe. It has some nice weight to it, drapes well and is completely opaque. I bought two 2-yard precuts because I could see using the fabric for a dress in the future.
IMO NL necklines are for the broad-shouldered. I used a size 14, tuck a small tuck on the neckline (~1/4"), did a 1" FBA rotated into the shoulder gathers (it does have front and back vertical darts) and a 1" bicep adjustment. I could use a swayback adjustment as well.
I chose to go ahead with the single layer yoke and just serged the seams. The fabric loops were a pain. Turning the tube was no problem but then I swear I made them all the same length and marked the fabric AND basted them before sewing. They are not even. One or two are too small for the buttons and one is too big. IDK what happened.
My buttons are pretty shell buttons with a shank from Sewing Lounge in St. Paul.  
I love the colors!

Being silly :-p The neckline is so flattering!
Speaking of...way back when, I went to Mexico on vacation. I was determined to lie by the pool and soak up the sun and indeed I did! Without sunscreen! Because I had literally never worn - never OWNED - sunscreen in my life. Well, when I got back home I learned I was sunburnt. All over. My skin peeled and peeled and peeled and thus I learned my lesson.
Us 'melanated' folk have some built in sun protection by virtue of our brown normal day to day outings I do not use sunscreen aside from what is built into whatever personal care products I use (I am annoyed that so many moisturizers are now SPF 1000 (exaggeration but still)...
So when I went to Puerto Rico, I bought sunscreen! I was ready!! And I put it on my arms and shoulders and back and legs and nose and...apparently not my chest. Doh.
It wasn't until I was looking at these pics that I was like HOLY COW! I burned my chest!!! Oops!
Behold the nice flat neckline and soft shoulder gathers <3

Self loops, button band, facings
I wasn't clear on the intersection between the facing and the bias tape so I winged it. Luckily the fabric is well-behaved and was pressed into compliance :)

 I LOVE this top but kind of feel like it's a "cool weather" print, if that makes sense.

Way, way, way back in February I cut out a taupe pair of V9032 (pair #8 or #9). I felt like I needed 'tan' pants. I had them basted and could not zip them, even with the seam allowances at the minimum. I set them aside. When I picked them back up while cleaning/organizing my sewing space, they were too big as basted. Yay! I even had to take the back waist in a bit. I finished them up and happily added them to the wardrobe.

In the meantime, I bought 3 different pairs of tan/taupe pants and returned them all. Now that these are finished I don't find myself reaching for them much.  Kind of like "needing" a classic white button front shirt but I really didn't...

C'est la vie.
still don't like how the fly shield + waistband is finished. Totally need to change it.
I used a sew in snap instead of button for the interior closure.

Look at that waistband intersection! boom! pow!!
I am fairly certain I did a blind hem by machine. The fabric is a rayon/wool blend (Fabric Mart) so it was very easy to press out any possible pricks in the fabric.

I could see myself making this top again...eventually...


  1. You do such lovely neat work! Those neck facings and the trouser bands...fabulous!

  2. Beautiful.. Love the pattern and fabric..
    Sorry you sunburned..[it really hurts, doesn't it?]
    Happy sewing.

  3. Love your outfit, especially the top!

  4. beautiful workmanship (as usual)! Looks great as an any season top. Bright colored bottoms or white would squew to the summer

  5. What a pretty blouse and I love the fabric. I see it as a spring or summer print. Would you/could you wear it with white or cream colored pants? Jean

  6. I guess the sun is a lot stronger where you were holidaying that in your home state. Love that liitle blouse...

  7. Ahh the sun. I am so incredibly white that I burn just thinking about going outside... Sunscreen is an everyday routine for me. I got caught recently when I got a new tinted sunscreen and wore it at the beach. Silly me didn't take note of the fact that it was NOT waterproof.

    I love your blouse, to me it is very summery.

  8. that top is so pretty, and that is interesting that you think the necklines are for broad shoulders in New Look patterns as I think they are the pattern co. that fits me best - with an upper body on the petite and narrow side.I think Simplicity is the one with the huge necklines.

  9. I think the whole outfit is great! I love the neckline on the top--it suits you perfectly! I, like you, never bothered with sunscreen until I got sunburned. As a kid I played out in the sun for HOURS and never got burned. Then, one day out on the lake as an adult, I ended up burning my back! Never again! Now I apply sunscreen, lol!

  10. Hrrmmm, I have narrow shoulders and I think the NL draft is a lot narrower than the McCalls block. I have NL 6104 (which is crazy similar to 6107...) and I need to make it soon, I think out of a solid color. I'm feeling solids this year, but your print is lovely! :)

  11. I always use SPF...all you have to do is burn once and you realize that the melanin thing isn’t true. Love the top and I remember you grabbing those pre-cuts!

  12. Gosh, I LOVE that top! How did I miss that pre-cut? You are looking fantastic by the way! From Minnesota to Mexico- I can see that the sun was a shock to your system!

  13. Your top is so beautiful and perfectly done as always. Loops are hard to make but they look so beautiful.


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