Wednesday, June 13, 2018

New Look 6107 & Vogue 9032

I'm not sure how long this pattern has been on my radar but it's been a long time. It's so pretty and feminine but also just a great everyday workwear type of item. I think I was avoiding it because I knew it would work best in something with drape. And drape + fiddly bits = not so fun. But I also knew that my sewing skills should allow me to make this top successfully.
I found this fabric on the trip to Fabric Mart during sew camp. It's rayon but I can't remember if it was challis or crepe. It has some nice weight to it, drapes well and is completely opaque. I bought two 2-yard precuts because I could see using the fabric for a dress in the future.
IMO NL necklines are for the broad-shouldered. I used a size 14, tuck a small tuck on the neckline (~1/4"), did a 1" FBA rotated into the shoulder gathers (it does have front and back vertical darts) and a 1" bicep adjustment. I could use a swayback adjustment as well.
I chose to go ahead with the single layer yoke and just serged the seams. The fabric loops were a pain. Turning the tube was no problem but then I swear I made them all the same length and marked the fabric AND basted them before sewing. They are not even. One or two are too small for the buttons and one is too big. IDK what happened.
My buttons are pretty shell buttons with a shank from Sewing Lounge in St. Paul.  
I love the colors!

Being silly :-p The neckline is so flattering!
Speaking of...way back when, I went to Mexico on vacation. I was determined to lie by the pool and soak up the sun and indeed I did! Without sunscreen! Because I had literally never worn - never OWNED - sunscreen in my life. Well, when I got back home I learned I was sunburnt. All over. My skin peeled and peeled and peeled and thus I learned my lesson.
Us 'melanated' folk have some built in sun protection by virtue of our brown normal day to day outings I do not use sunscreen aside from what is built into whatever personal care products I use (I am annoyed that so many moisturizers are now SPF 1000 (exaggeration but still)...
So when I went to Puerto Rico, I bought sunscreen! I was ready!! And I put it on my arms and shoulders and back and legs and nose and...apparently not my chest. Doh.
It wasn't until I was looking at these pics that I was like HOLY COW! I burned my chest!!! Oops!
Behold the nice flat neckline and soft shoulder gathers <3

Self loops, button band, facings
I wasn't clear on the intersection between the facing and the bias tape so I winged it. Luckily the fabric is well-behaved and was pressed into compliance :)

 I LOVE this top but kind of feel like it's a "cool weather" print, if that makes sense.

Way, way, way back in February I cut out a taupe pair of V9032 (pair #8 or #9). I felt like I needed 'tan' pants. I had them basted and could not zip them, even with the seam allowances at the minimum. I set them aside. When I picked them back up while cleaning/organizing my sewing space, they were too big as basted. Yay! I even had to take the back waist in a bit. I finished them up and happily added them to the wardrobe.

In the meantime, I bought 3 different pairs of tan/taupe pants and returned them all. Now that these are finished I don't find myself reaching for them much.  Kind of like "needing" a classic white button front shirt but I really didn't...

C'est la vie.
still don't like how the fly shield + waistband is finished. Totally need to change it.
I used a sew in snap instead of button for the interior closure.

Look at that waistband intersection! boom! pow!!
I am fairly certain I did a blind hem by machine. The fabric is a rayon/wool blend (Fabric Mart) so it was very easy to press out any possible pricks in the fabric.

I could see myself making this top again...eventually...