Burda 8/2012 #129: New Pants!

It took a hot second for me to come around but I absolutely love these pants.

As mentioned, I wanted to make a few near pairs of casual pants. I was kind of on the fence on patterns and needed to see how the fabrics washed up.  In the end I decided on these in black, M7547 in olive and V1522 in navy.

This fabric is an awesome cotton sateen from Mood. I prewashed the fabric and washed them before hemming and they look just as awesome as they did when I pulled the fabric out of the bag!

These pants don't fit like they look like they're supposed to fit.

I had this pattern from the defunct US version of the mag. They had some patterns in the magazine and a code to download others. This was a download so I had to do the PDF thing. Bleh.

I traced a size 44 and made my normal Burda pant adjustments plus one more!

• Removed 1/2" from the front crotch - I usually remove quite a bit more and trace the crotch point one size smaller. But I wanted these to sit higher and after measuring, came up with the 3/8" adjustment.
• Added 1" to the back crotch rise - I almost always have to add an inch.
• Added 1/4" to the back crotch point.
• I bought Betzina's fast fit book and made the knock-knee adjustment for the first time. eliminated a lot of those back wrinkles! But, I forgot to scoop! I will scoop out a little in back, dropping the curve a bit which should take care of those last few wrinkles.
• I added hem allowances, which I NEVER do with Burda. I added a 1" hem allowance aaaaaand removed 1" from the length! LOL!
• After playing around a bit with the seams trying to reshape the leg, I am SO glad I took pics from behind and things had gone wonky in the back upper thigh. So I decided to sew them as they were intended. If I want to change the fit through the leg I'd have to do it at the flat pattern stage.
• Quick note here. I was dissatisfied with the fit when basting. Partially because I expected a straight fit through the leg...they are straight from the hip down. But removing the excess length improved the way they looked. I had L point this out to me some time ago on a project...it's not always circumference; sometimes it's a length issue.
• Once I decided they'd stay as-is, I went ahead and sewed them up. I used 7/8" side seam allowances and a 1 1/4" double turned hem. 

WHEW!

Once they were basted - which means the inseams were sewn and the crotch was sewn and the waistband was attached (but not the facing), I decided to insert welt pockets. I am so glad I did but it made it a little harder and also I wasn't able to catch the pocket lining in the stitching of the waistband. Well, I could have redone it but nope. LOL!

I went back and forth on button or hook and eye closures. Ultimately, my problem hand meant I didn't want to do any hand sewing PLUS the fact that these are my casual pants...I went with a button. I made a practice keyhole buttonhole...aaaand then the real one went horribly. But of course it did!

Grr.

I LOVE this style pocket. Vogue 9155 has this pocket and I keep meaning to make another pair. Perhaps this fall; I want a flat-front plaid pant :)

They are SO comfortable and I love them rolled up! 

I know these are a little different from what I normally wear; I like fitted clothes. But I just love them. They can go completely casual with a tee (or sweatshirt in fall!) and sporty sandals/sneakers...and can also be dressed up a little. Works for me!

I really wanted to get the Burnside Bibs done this month. I hope so!!

The short of it; when I fell last summer I actually fractured my hand. The X-ray did not show it and it took 3 months of me asking for an MRI to get an MRI (which is so annoying!!). By the time I got the MRI we were 9 months post-fall. My orthopedic doc assumed the healed fracture he saw on the MRI was an "old break"! Today I'm like, NO! THAT IS FROM THE FALL! And then, "Oh. Ohhhhh. It didn't quite heal properly." Well Duh! So 1-year later I still have swelling, I have a bit of weirdness with the cartilage, but he feels PT should help.

I start PT for my hand on Wednesday. I ordered a set of hand strengthening tools on Amazon and they showed up Sunday. I found a series of exercises to do with the ball and my hand felt better today than it has in awhile. So I am hopeful.