Tuesday, July 17, 2018

Butterick 6330 - WIN!


I exaggerate. EVER SO Slightly.

This post is photo heavy as I walked around my community testing out areas. It wasn't a great time of day; it was about 1 p.m. and the sun was really high.

Location 1

Last year I made  KS4169 in a beautiful ITY print. This dress does not really work...but I loved the idea of it and wore it frequently. I'm a tad smaller this year and had to take a dart at the armhole so it wouldn't sag/gape, the surplice is a baggy, and while I love (again) the idea of racerbacks, I hate having to come up with alternative bra options. Hate. (caveat: I actually have a strapless that I love).

I've wanted a tank style maxi for quite a while. Forever ago I made McCall's 6559 like everyone else. I've realized now that I want a waist seam/tie because I'm fairly rectangular viewed front-on.

Location 2

I actually bought this pattern for the jumpsuit but looked a little bit closer and thought, hmm, this could work. I feel like this style of pattern and in sml sizing often runs pretty large from the Big4 so I got the smaller size range and cut a medium. This pattern uses the same piece for the front and back of the skirt and I absolutely cannot do that. Typically, I'd grade the back piece up but for this simple style and elastic waist, I moved the piece 1/2" from the fold (adding 1"). I did not add anything to back bodice as it is unneeded there.

Going off the finished pattern piece when I do pivot and slide FBAs, I did a cheater FBA here (I've done this before with knits). This DOES result in a longer side seam for the front piece compared to the back but that can easily be eased in and especially so in a knit. I raised the armhole and took a tuck to avoid gaping. When I make this again, I'd take a little 1/4" tuck from the neckline. I lowered the neckline 2" which could have caused the slight gaping; I don't normally need to adjust the neckline on size Medium. Lowering the neckline allowed me to eliminate the keyhole (I hate keyhole backs).

The pattern calls for a turn-and-stitch finish to the neckline and armholes. I'm not always opposed but it usually isn't the best finish IMO.  I cut strips of fabric 1 1/4" wide and stitched by machine (5/8"). I then trimmed and turned/pressed and topstitched with the coverstitch machine. 

On the jumpsuit, the tie isn't real. It's a bow stitched to the front. Boooo!! I inserted the elastic and stitched the casing down to the bodice. I then added a self-fabric tie.

The fabric.

I've never used double brushed poly before and really had no interest in it. I run hot, hot, hot. I bought a cut of scuba once, some years ago, and decided the rest of the sewing community could have that trend! :-p I assumed dbp was not for me (it is not). I saw this PRINT when we were at Fabric Mart and had to have it. It is the perfect print for this dress and I don't regret using it but not sure I'd buy this type of fabric again.

And! it was SO 'sticky'. It was like velcro (okay fine, slight exaggeration) but it was sticky!! It took forever to thread the elastic through and I almost gave up on the tie. Next time I'll use twill tape because the fabric was just sticking to itself through the casing AND because the tie was stretchy too, attempts to pull it through were just annoyingly difficult.

Location 3


As soon as my fabric is organized there WILL be another one! This is why I almost always buy Butterick wardrobe patterns; I have found some serious gems.

July is turning out to be quite epic! Especially since I sewed ONE thing in June which was a fail. But to be fair, summer sewing is always a little faster IMO...

My McCall's 7780 top is giving me all the life. I have it pressed and pinned and just need to stitch the hem. My package arrived from Mood for my casual pants and my paper pattern for the Burnside Bibs arrived too. Woohoo!

Location 4 which is just around the corner from #2