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Tuesday, July 17, 2018

Butterick 6330 - WIN!

aka THE SUMMER DRESS OF MY DREAMS!!

I exaggerate. EVER SO Slightly.

This post is photo heavy as I walked around my community testing out areas. It wasn't a great time of day; it was about 1 p.m. and the sun was really high.

Location 1

Last year I made  KS4169 in a beautiful ITY print. This dress does not really work...but I loved the idea of it and wore it frequently. I'm a tad smaller this year and had to take a dart at the armhole so it wouldn't sag/gape, the surplice is a baggy, and while I love (again) the idea of racerbacks, I hate having to come up with alternative bra options. Hate. (caveat: I actually have a strapless that I love).

I've wanted a tank style maxi for quite a while. Forever ago I made McCall's 6559 like everyone else. I've realized now that I want a waist seam/tie because I'm fairly rectangular viewed front-on.



Location 2

I actually bought this pattern for the jumpsuit but looked a little bit closer and thought, hmm, this could work. I feel like this style of pattern and in sml sizing often runs pretty large from the Big4 so I got the smaller size range and cut a medium. This pattern uses the same piece for the front and back of the skirt and I absolutely cannot do that. Typically, I'd grade the back piece up but for this simple style and elastic waist, I moved the piece 1/2" from the fold (adding 1"). I did not add anything to back bodice as it is unneeded there.

Going off the finished pattern piece when I do pivot and slide FBAs, I did a cheater FBA here (I've done this before with knits). This DOES result in a longer side seam for the front piece compared to the back but that can easily be eased in and especially so in a knit. I raised the armhole and took a tuck to avoid gaping. When I make this again, I'd take a little 1/4" tuck from the neckline. I lowered the neckline 2" which could have caused the slight gaping; I don't normally need to adjust the neckline on size Medium. Lowering the neckline allowed me to eliminate the keyhole (I hate keyhole backs).


The pattern calls for a turn-and-stitch finish to the neckline and armholes. I'm not always opposed but it usually isn't the best finish IMO.  I cut strips of fabric 1 1/4" wide and stitched by machine (5/8"). I then trimmed and turned/pressed and topstitched with the coverstitch machine. 


On the jumpsuit, the tie isn't real. It's a bow stitched to the front. Boooo!! I inserted the elastic and stitched the casing down to the bodice. I then added a self-fabric tie.


The fabric.

I've never used double brushed poly before and really had no interest in it. I run hot, hot, hot. I bought a cut of scuba once, some years ago, and decided the rest of the sewing community could have that trend! :-p I assumed dbp was not for me (it is not). I saw this PRINT when we were at Fabric Mart and had to have it. It is the perfect print for this dress and I don't regret using it but not sure I'd buy this type of fabric again.

And oh.my.gosh! it was SO 'sticky'. It was like velcro (okay fine, slight exaggeration) but it was sticky!! It took forever to thread the elastic through and I almost gave up on the tie. Next time I'll use twill tape because the fabric was just sticking to itself through the casing AND because the tie was stretchy too, attempts to pull it through were just annoyingly difficult.


Location 3



BUT I LOVE THIS DRESS THE MOST POSSIBLE! :-p

As soon as my fabric is organized there WILL be another one! This is why I almost always buy Butterick wardrobe patterns; I have found some serious gems.

July is turning out to be quite epic! Especially since I sewed ONE thing in June which was a fail. But to be fair, summer sewing is always a little faster IMO...

My McCall's 7780 top is giving me all the life. I have it pressed and pinned and just need to stitch the hem. My package arrived from Mood for my casual pants and my paper pattern for the Burnside Bibs arrived too. Woohoo!

Location 4 which is just around the corner from #2






28 comments:

Linda T said...

Pretty dress, but I don't do poly either--just.too.hot for me.

Linda L said...

I like your dress! DPB is a fabric I like for cold weather. I have sewn a couple of garments using it and found to sew well. I do believe that any knit is great and not so great depending on manufacturer. I like scuba for cold weather also. I just purchased some rayon knit that is a similar print. May have to try a maxi dress with it; I am the last person to get on the maxi dress wagon.

wendyrb said...

Love your dress and like location #1 a lot; I think #2 could be great, but would have to get positioned so your head has a background of lighter sunlit leaves. Another suggestion, but I'm no photographer, in pose #2 of the #2 location- can you face the sun so your face is lit? Or does that blind you and squint you? My personal fav for finishing knit sleeveless armholes and necklines is FOE. Fold -Over Elastic to eliminate any gaping anywhere and I should be doing an FBA, but nope with this finish. I don't measure the elastic, just pull more at the tighter curve places where I tend to have a dart/gaping pop up. Total smoothness results, but it takes me 2 passes for control. I just ordered a FOE color card with 96 colors from Bowtique (their spelling) Emilee, an Etsy shop. Yay! And priced right.

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

I think that whole area was shaded. So while I love the flowers and a clear space to place the tripod, I think it may always be shadows from the trees above. I plan to experiment more with my next garment! :-D

I have tons of experience with FOE! Back in the day, before sewing, I had an Etsy shop where I sold some handmade stuff for babies/toddlers. popular items being headbands and that stuff was gold for baby headbands! :) I think I sewed a neckline with it once but didn't care for the finish. HOWEVER, that was also in my first year of sewing so I may not have had good technique. I should try again.

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thank you Linda! And yes, one of the most frustrating knits for me is ITY. Sometimes you strike gold. Other times...way, way off the mark. I haven't ordered it in a long time :(
Definitely make a maxi! It'll be nice for your new climate!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thanks Linda! I can wear some it just really depends.

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thank you Karen!!

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

I hate double brushed poly knits and brushed poly knits because what you're going to find out is that they are going to pill with washing...unless they've done something to the formula. I saw those at fabric mart and though I loved the prints knew I wouldn't be happy with them. Sorry dayum that was a book - when I should be saying that I love your new maxi and you should make loads more of them!

Bunny said...

I like location #3, particularly with the shadows across the concrete. Your dress is fabulous and it looks really nice on you.I like this dark print on you, very pretty.

AllisonC said...

I love your dress and the print is gorgeous even if the fabric took a bit of wrangling!

Vanessa said...

I agree that this style of dress looks wonderful on you! I love your neighborhood backdrops, and think it is awesome that you tried out DBP. Yes! It sticks, like Velcro! But, I have sewn some DBP that wasn't as sticky. I haven't decided what I think about them yet--I still buy because fabric is pretty and guess I should learn more about fabric content and what that means in the long run, lol!

Linda L said...

I was nominated for the Mystery Blogger Award and nominated you for this yesterday. If interested read my post titles Award to participate.

Unknown said...

I feel that way about dbp as well (I live in the hot and humid south) but then I got lured in by a beautiful print. So pretty but the fabric does indeed feel sticky. Not sure if I’m going to use it or not.

Unknown said...

Gorgeous!! <3 <3

Faye Lewis said...

Cool and cute and I love the print.

The Sewing CPA said...

Your neighborhood looks so beautiful. I love location 3. Your dress suits you like a dream; no wonder you're in love with it. The print is gorgeous.

L said...

Looooooooove this dress! I swear, girl, my sewing plans usually amount to: what did Kisha make?

Yes, I am buying this pattern. =P

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Hahaha! That was NOT a book! :)
I immediately cut out a black one. The fabric is a little translucent...we'll see it how it goes.

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thank you so much Bunny!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thank you! Sometimes the pattern drives and sometimes the fabric drives. It's funny how much more willing I am to fight through when it's the fabric doing the driving!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thanks Vanessa!

it may be one of those fabrics I only buy in-person or with a swatch.

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thanks Linda ;)

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Perhaps for a winter garment. The first time I wore this it was too hot and the only reason it was okay is because we went to the movies. The next time I wore it it wasn't as hot out; about mid 70s. I don't think it would be wearable on say, an 85, 90 degree day with humidity!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thank you Andie!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thanks Faye!!!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Ha! I love it! We can be twinning in the upper Midwest! :-p

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thank you! I think #3 is my fave too :)

Anne said...

Lovely dress. I've never used DBP so don't know what it's like