McCall's 7834 (2 of 2)

Warning - I love this dress SO much! This is a photo heavy post, but there's a lot of info too.

Had to play with the shoe options! :)

See this post for complete details on the fitting and muslin process: Fitting Details. To recap from that post, I cut a size 14 with the pattern adjustments indicated below.

Front:

Add 1/2" for neckline

Add 1/4" to front length

Remove 1/2" for narrow shoulder

Lower dart 1" 

Add 1" to waist circumference

Tuck at waistline 1" at side seam to match back, tapering to 1/2" at CF

I've never owned a button-front that actually buttoned around my (more than!) 15" neck!

there are no pulls, no gaping, no wrinkles, it's not snug or tight...it just feels GOOD on!

I'm wearing the necktie in the photo on the left.

Back:

Add 1/2" for high round back

Add 1/4" to the back neckline

Remove 1/2" for narrow shoulder

Add 1" to the waist circumference

Remove 1" from bodice length

My imbalanced posture was captured - my waist seam is even, my hem is level, LOOK AT THE BACK!!!

Other:

Adjusted collarstand and collar pieces to match new neckline

Added 2" to bicep and shaped the cap while removing some ease

Added 2" to back skirt by cutting 1" away from the fold

Shortened lower ruffle on view B skirt by 4"

Used smaller buttons 

Sewed the buttonholes before attaching the skirt (I saw no good reason to try to work buttonholes with the weight of the skirt in the way.)

I think the shoulder is still a tiny bit long

I sewed the cuff on and when I went to press it, I realized it would be too narrow. Then looked at the cuff piece; "Cut 4". WHYYYYY!? I went to rant on IG and as I was lying in bed that night, it dawned on me. One of the other views has a ruffle in the sleeve. Meh. LOL! 

I created a new pattern piece for the option of a foldover cuff. Also, I found it much easier to attach the cuff facing after the fact. On the second sleeve I constructed it according to pattern, sewing the two together and then attaching to the sleeve. It was a lot more fiddly.

Also, I HATE that they just have you leave an opening in the sleeve seam vs adding a continuous lap or placket. I'll change that too should I make it again. It's weird having the buttons basically under your arm.

3/8" / 10mm buttons (vs. 1/2")

The elastic for the back measured at 17" for the size 14. 

Since I would have cut a larger size AND I added to the waist circumference, I cut the elastic 19"

I took a lot of care with sewing this one. I basted a ton, working really hard to ensure everything was as good as it could be.

sewing the collar

This label is pretty perfect! :-D

I was held up for awhile on the skirt length.  Unless I think fabric quantity will be an issue, I tend to cut pieces out as I need them. When I went to cut out the lower skirt ruffle, I was surprised by the length. I checked the back of the envelope and the finished length of view B's skirt was 45", which is midi length on me. I am not totally opposed to that length, but it isn't my favorite. 

I hemmed and hawed for a bit and was going to cut the ruffle at 8" which was half the upper skirt length. Then, I started looking at past makes for lengths that I thought worked on me. Eureka! My Burda 4/2019 dress had an upper skirt and lower ruffle. I pulled that pattern out and the upper skirt was about the same length as this one and the ruffle was 10". That's how I settled on this length. 

For the upper skirt, I gathered it traditionally - with two rows of basting stitches. The fabric for the lower ruffle measured about 110" if I recall, and there was NO WAY. LOL! I went to my serger method and gathered it about 50%. With this method, you want to test out a few samples and be certain of your ratio as it's not as easy to adjust the gathers (which is why I elected not to use it for the skirt), but it was a great option for the ruffle. 

The fabric is a rayon challis with amazing weight and drape. 

I picked it up during my in-person trip to the store at Sew Camp 2018.

Love. Love. Love. Although I realize now why I don't own many woven McCall's garments. Their block is obviously not a great match to my body as-is. I'll be curious to see how the next pattern I choose from the brand works up.

Outtakes because, ME!