Finished: McCall's 7251

Last we "spoke" of sewing plans I was planning a Swoon cardigan and a wrap cardigan using NL6301. Well those were both serger projects, things I'd made before, and both black so those were zip, zip, done. Contemplating what to sew next, faced with a -22 degree F day last Sunday (sew day!) and knowing this past work week would be a busy, I decided on something that would take a bit of time to work through.

I'd wanted this shirt since it was released. I just love the details of view B and had to have it. I bought a nice pumpkin colored cotton twill for it and was ready to go!

And then I decided the shirting was far too crisp and reached wayyyy back to this cotton shirting I got from SR Harris back in April 2013. After playing some pattern/fabric tetris, I decided the facings of the front bands would have to be cut from contrasting fabric. I had some plain black cotton shirting in stash that fit the bill. Also, while the yoke is intended to be single layer, I cut the inside from the black shirting because you should burrito whenever you have the chance! :-p

Burrito!!

black facing and yoke

Wait.

This pattern has some minor issues.
-The tech drawing doesn't even show a yoke. But it does exist!!
-Matter of opinion but I don't think the drawing in the instructions show how dropped the shoulder is. But the tech drawing is accurate there. It's low.
-The instructions for the sleeve placket are WACK and WACKY.

I cut a size 14 and after extensive flat-pattern measurements decided I didn't need any adjustments. I did...I needed to slash and spread for butt room. It's not too bad but (with leggings on especially), the shirt does get caught up on my butt. I left off most of the top stitching as it just wasn't showing up well in this fabric. I only used 3 buttons in front instead of 4. And I left off the roll-tabs for the sleeves.

LOVE the side slits, actually like the tunic length (it looked super long when it was in progress), love the dropped shoulder and neckline fit. The collar stand doesn't have much shaping, giving it a nice, casual/relaxed look. The collar falls open nicely.

Meh on the pockets. They are what attracted me to this pattern but they are awkward. When I put it on they have to be arranged 'just so'. Again I ask my more experienced sewing friends - could the one piece pocket be the issue? You know how often there is a pattern piece for the "yoke" and the pocket and pocket bag are separate? It's all integrated into one piece and while it doesn't exactly sag, it does...something...

I don't think the fabric reads in photos anywhere near how it looks in person. But checked fabric often does that whole optical illusion thing.

Lighting situation in the tundra is horrific! And today it's been raining so no chance for outside photos. 

This was a fun project and if asked I would say YES! Make it! It's casual and cute.

Up Next:
I am finishing up Simplicity 1322 (this was a quick one!) and just some more vacation sewing!!! :-D

Merry Christmas! Happy Hanukkah! Happy Holidays!

McCall's Early Spring (and a quick note)

I think I have a sewing plan for my break!

• 2 pair of V9032 (taupe and charcoal). I'm thinking of making one of each view.
• V9210 dress (plum or this burgundy/white print I picked up at FM recently).
• 2 versions of M6612 (black/white print and a solid). I just finished a version of this pattern and am seriously loving it.
• Black knit vest (pattern TBD)
• B5760 in camel wool
• Knit top in a leopard print knit (pattern TBD)

It's a lot but if anyone can sew 8 things in 11 days it's me -- and Carolyn! ;-)  This made much easier by only 1 or 2 patterns being new to me.

While we do have some stuff planned, the fact remains, I live with teenagers! :) Which means at least a few hours of sewing time most mornings while I'm off. Plus free time while they're working/hanging with friends. They both plan to work "a ton!" over break. Neither has worked this school year.

Anyway!!

It's been awhile since I reviewed a new release, but there's lots to love in this collection for me!

*Early Spring* makes me giggle a little. It was -21 F in Minneapolis yesterday; with the windchill factor, about -32. Today it is 21 and feels downright balmy!

Starting with my must-haves:

7546: I'm not sure I'd try the cold shoulder?? But I love the tunic, the dress, the side slits, the belt, the concealed buttons. LOVE!!!

7547: I love overalls. I won't apologize! :-p I also love the slim pant and the flared pant.

7538: I want this. I want that top today. I am saving scraps of jersey that I have in those colors! I'm going to make this top! I also love views B and D.

7537: I mean, seriously. Swoon. I love them all, especially C and D.

7542: One of those "I probably shouldn't make this but I will". It's boxy, the sleeves will have to be lengthened to past my bust (can't have the volume of the sleeve right there) but I like this as a casual/weekend top.

ETA: This has cup sizing! Woohoo!!

Other CUTE things that I don't think I will buy...unless I see a fabulous version out in the sewing world:

7540: That 2 piece is everything. But would I ever make this? Unlikely.

7534: Again, it just looks a bit basic which isn't bad, I just don't think I need it (hahaha as if that has ever stopped me).

7531: Bodycon Learn-to-Sew dress

7536: Dress with a few neckline versions and a couple skirt versions

7535: I like the tan view D but feel certain I have something like this already.

7548: Lots of bang for the buck here in this casual / activewear pattern. A tank, tee, capri, skirt and cardigan!

7543: The off-the-shoulder trend continues! I made 2 versions of the Style Arc Cara top and wore neither. Maybe this fully elastic version would work better for me. My large bust + narrow shoulder didn't work so well. I do like the little sleeve ties. That is a cute detail.

7549: I LOVE the quilted one. I would never make it though. And I'm not much into boxy little jackets. But it's cute.

There are a few other boho-ish tops included and just two patterns that caused major side-eye:

7541: Uhmm. A cape top?  Seems hard to wear.

7539: That jumpsuit does not look chic. All those patch pockets look unfortunate. The dress looks okay but I will pass. And scuba is a recommended fabric. Go ahead and melt in your scuba-car-mechanic-jumpsuit.
So, what are your picks from this release?

Burda Challenge: 11-2016 #102

My November Burda challenge project is the flounced skirt 11-2016 #102. I went back and forth on what to choose for this month and decided on the skirt 1) because it really is cute and 2) because it's the sewing lesson (they're so much easier to trace!).

I used a size 42 and graded the back to a 44. I chose this pinstripe RPL from the stash for contrast between the serious pinstripe and flirty skirt. Everything went together really well although doing the narrow hem on that flounce took FOR-EVAHHHHHH plus a day. SHEESH. 

((I made the skirt then a Swoon cardigan then the Simplicity top all 3 requiring miles of narrow hems. I don't want to hem another thing.))

The RPL is nice as-is so I opted not to line the upper skirt and drafted a facing from the skirt pattern. I am so proud of myself for doing so! Go me! 

Flounce-y!

The right side finishes in the same seam as the left. And then something weird happened at the intersection. I'm just going to blame it on my seam allowances maybe not being perfect where everything came together. 

Look at that facing!!

 Oh! Also, it is winter. So it's dark when I leave home and dark when I return. I spent forever taking photos in various parts of my house trying to find any decent lighting. I settled on the basement with the lovely wood paneling as background!

No details to be seen but you can see the overall silhouette of the skirt fit.

Slightly better exposure and lighting here. Ah. 

So while it totally emphasizes my boxiness, I love it! It's just fun to wear. The day I finished it I was wearing tights and it looked really cute with black tights and a cropped sweater.

Finished: Simplicity 8216

Let's just get it out of the way now...this top makes my heart sing!!! And this post is full of photos!

Simplicity 8216 is one of many tie-neck blouses in the stash. You can't go anywhere without seeing tie-necks or cold shoulders and I loves me some tie-necks. I chose this one because I have a serious thing for shoulder gathers. AND this one has a yoke!? SOLD!

I have definitely put on weight this fall and was hoping I had the larger size range but nope. My pattern ended with size 14. Which is still my neckline/shoulder size and I had to not be lazy and actually make the necessary adjustments to make the 14 work for my body.  #SewingGrowth

Fit Adjustments:

• 1" FBA rotated into the shoulder gathers (I'd never done that before and YAY ME!!!!!!!)
• Because I needed the room at the waist, I didn't try to eliminate the excess added by the FBA
• I did a slash and spread adding 5/8" to the back piece (1 1/4" total at the hip)
• 1" full bicep adjustment

Swoon...

As others mentioned, the top isn't nearly as gathered as the drawing makes it seem. It's very slight -  I did an FBA so I have more gathers.

Other Adjustments: 

• I essentially sewed view B in a shorter length.
• I cut double yokes and used the burrito method to attach.
• After getting the side seams sewn I thought it looked HUGE; but then it fit so nicely through the upper body! I then decided I needed waist definition and so the casing was added.
• I made bias tape for the casing from the fabric. I tried it on and decided on elastic positioning. It was about 1/2" higher than the pattern marking.
• I decided against the buttoned bands for the sleeves and choose to mimic the waist and do elastic instead.

The Good:

• It fits beautifully. 
• The scooped neckline + tie is just gorgeous. I love that peek of skin.
• The collar goes together perfectly. Just mind your markings on the neckline, yoke and collar. I was in awe at how well it all went together! 

The Bad:

@*()*#!?*! Arrgghhhhhh!!!

I was SO happy at the collar and came crashing down to earth when it came to finishing.  The back facing is too deep as drafted - it's exactly 5/8" off. This error was confirmed by Simplicity.

Also, it just doesn't seem to sit well when the top is flat. It's all funky and crazy.

wonky facings

But on the body it's fine. I have to arrange it when I put the top on -- Oh and my extra large head *JUST* barely makes it through the neck opening -- but once it's on, the facings are fine and sit inside okay.  And yes, I did make sure that the facing piece matched the fabric piece before interfacing and it's understitched, trimmed and graded.

It's the only negative to the top. So perhaps my more experienced sewing friends can help me figure out if I can do something to make it work better. Because this one will be made again.

Pictures!

I mean, seriously awesome!?! Right?! 

Ahhhhhh!! 

Initially I thought I might shorten the pattern for next time but finished? Love. Love. Love. 

HAPPY DANCE! :)

Love the back fit. So much. I just adore it!

I took so many cheesy-faced photos

And then this is my final, dignified face ;-)

Hahaha!

I took some equally horrible lighting photos of my November Burda project so review on that to come soon. I have a busy week or so and then my long work break. My daughter wants a simple tent dress (but from velvet) for Christmas. And then I plan my sew-cation projects! woohoo!

November Wrap-up and December Plans(?!)

I am so, so ready to bid adieu to 2016 but HOLY COW did this year speed by! Sheesh!!!

I didn't do a good job tracking my November sewing so I'll do my best to recall my efforts this month. Despite not sewing often, I still managed to crank out some goodies.

My plan for my daughter was deflated by her dislike of the dresses I chose. I made the skirts and quit. But she LOVES the skirts so there's that! She wore the plaid one on Thanksgiving.

So this month I sewed:

• S1322 and NL6418 skirts for my daughter - one wool plaid suiting and one in grey faux suede
• New Look 6301 dress in floral jersey (to be blogged)
• Burda 8/2016 dress in blue cotton blend woven
• Burda 11/2016 skirt in pinstriped RPL suiting (to be blogged)

 

 

I adore this skirt. It is very fun and flirty and that is balanced by the more serious black pinstripe. I'm NOT sure it's the "right" shape for my body type but sometimes you just love a thing no matter what.

 

I'm 11 for 11 on my Burda challenge this year! Woot!! I will likely get this blogged soon.

 

Also, I delivered the finished cardigan to my friend and she looks amazing in it and the color is perfect and YAY!

 

I made her strike a pose in the second pic! :)

It's the free cardigan by Swoon patterns. I used an XL through the neckline/shoulders and the sleeve, and a 2X through the body. I did an FBA too but I don't remember how much; but not a large one; maybe 1/2"?? The sleeve length worked for me but they are pretty long on her. However, the sleeves scrunch up a-ok so it works.

I just love it on her!

 

I am still on a skirt/dress kick. I didn't sew the other dresses from my November plans and am now jonesing for that plum-colored Vogue. I already have a black Swoon cardigan cut out for myself and a black top version of NL6301; and there's black thread in my serger. So you know what THAT means!

 

I'll get those done, then the Vogue dress and then who knows! I have 11 days off work (12/22 through 1/3) and am excited to claim a good amount of time for sewing. My original wardrobe plan still hangs in my sewing room and I still want some of the things I planned on months ago.

 

Lastly, I haven't decided yet what I want from December. I kind of love this dress though again, it's probably not "right" for me (but it's CUTE!) and also that cap sleeve means I will HAVE to wear a sweater or jacket with it which seems not cool because why cover up the lovely pleats and ruffles? So I may push this to spring/summer. I do like it though a lot.

 

I also like this dress but not the sleeve:

 

 

I bought a dress from LOFT with that (flutter?) sleeve and it took me awhile to realize I hated it. I love the dress but hate that sleeve. I have big biceps/forearms and I just don't think it works well for me. But look at the lines of this dress!!! Swoon.

 

LOVE this cape and have a wonderful plaid that would work for it but I have absolutely no reason to make a cape for a MN winter. Again, maybe next spring:

 

 

I've been looking for a double knit or sweater knit to make this dress from since the December preview came out in October! I haven't found anything I love.

 

But I would really, really, really love to make this blazer

I am scared.

Yes! I said it! Hahaha!

1) I've made so many things of varying complexity, but never a 'proper' blazer.
2) It's plus sized and I'm not plus up top and it's Burda plus which I've been told is a different block e.g. the 44 is not just incrementally graded up from a 42 like a 42 is graded up from a 40.

But look at it! ahhhhhhhh.

So >>this person<< is kinda sorta thinking, that I need to just go for it. I will have to *insert huge gasp* make a muslin and see how far off the fit is. I am obviously most worried about neckline/shoulder fit since I'm a 14/40 there and this is a 44 and that's notoriously harder area to fit. But as I often tell people..."What's the worst that could happen?" and "It's just fabric!"

:-)