Grey Skinny Jeans...

GASP! An actual review! LOL!

Before time slipped completely away from me on the contest, I'd sewn the unreleased Baste and Gather jeans. Because I'd planned to follow my B+G skinny jeans with the flares, I was going to review them together. But alas! :) My hands aren't cooperating and I have to rest them before cutting out some more denim.

I've dealt with carpal tunnel and tendinitis in some combination for 20 years. I've tried it all people. lol! Well, I want to try acupuncture. And I was recently put on to kinesio tape, which actually helps! Anyway...

The Kendall skinnies were to be based on the same fit of the Birkins from the hip up - very fitted with a slightly high-rise. Lauren, the pattern designer, went back and forth quite a bit tweaking the Kendalls and in the end decided to scrap the pattern. She wasn't happy with the fit through the legs.  I never got the last revision of the pattern - I think those who volunteered to officially test did. So my pattern was from the very early stages.

Right away, looking at the pattern paper, I realized the leg was too straight. There was not much contouring, which won't work for a skinny jean. 

Look at how straight the leg is!

Here is my try on, pinch out, stitch, rinse/repeat:

 

I may have fitted them a wee bit too tight through the calf but that's an easy fix should I make them again.

The other part, I think, true skinny jeans just require a stretch woven. It seems too difficult to get a close fit like that with zero Lycra. This denim is a cotton/poly/lycra blend (which I don't care for stretch wovens on my lower half but if I must wear a stretch denim, I prefer this blend). I got it from Hancock Fabrics some time ago and was happy to finally sew this denim up! The only thing is, I swear I prewashed this cut of fabric. And yet, when I washed the final jeans, they came out of the dryer looking like they've seen months of wear. That's not a bad thing aesthetically, but it makes me wonder about wear in the long run.

Another fabric-related thing to note; when I topstitched my rear pockets, they stretched out a bit. Using the pattern piece as a guide, I steamed them back to the right size:

 

When doing something like this before the iron is nice and hot/steamy and allow the pattern piece to fully cool before moving it.

 

I've mentioned this before I think...and I've passed this tip along to others on IG sewing jeans. For the longest time I couldn't remember where I learned it but a little sleuthing turned it up! I found this through a post by Emily Fournier of Jalie. For whatever reason, attaching a denim waistband (I've never tried it with other pants) to the inside first and THEN folding to the outside and topstitching, results in a much cleaner finish. Whenever I've mentioned this and someone has tried it, they've RAVED about it. So I wanted to be sure credit was given where it was due! I can't find the original blog post but snagged this photo from Pinterest:

 

I don't even press the seam allowance up before hand. I do it after it's been attached.

The original reason I found this blog post was an even handier trick re: the waistband. For those of us with pronounced curves in our back, stopping jeans from gaping is always at the forefront!

The CB seam of the waistband is sewn with a wedge. It's 5/8" (or whatever your SA is) and tapers in at the center, and then back out to end at 5/8" on the other end. For this pair, I went in a total of 1 1/4". This gives a noticeable 'dip' on the waistband but not so on the body. I didn't transfer this to the paper pattern as I assume the amount I'd need to take in may be fabric dependent. At any rate, NO GAPING!

Lastly, after trying them on so many times trying to tweak the leg fit, I found the back had stretched out a little bit. I ran a basting stitch and eased it up just so that it was back to 'normal'.

My topstitching was done with doubled thread - nice for matching or choosing whatever sort of contrast you wish without trying to track down topstitching thread! Another technique is to use the stretch stitch but I find that so time consuming. I only use that stitch through the seat of my pants/trousers for extra strength. And I'm always #overit by the time do that back crotch seam! LOL!

 

1 1/4" hem: 5/8" folded up twice

 

Fun polka-dot cotton poplin as pocket bags.

(see what I mean about them looking well-lived in already?)

 

I think they are so cute and a nice basic, making them worth all the fiddling!!

 

The top is M6702, previously blogged here. I can't wait to wear this for summer. That cut out is so cute...and I can dig cute hi-low hems like this one!

You can see they're a little snug on the calves...otherwise, I think jeans + leg wrinkles = totally normal.



While making them I wasn't too jazzed about trying to make this pattern a TNT. But I think it's worth it. They fit so well otherwise!! Minor changes for next time: lower the front rise just a little bit more (maybe 3/8") and narrow the belt loops. And aside from that, try to perfect that fit from thigh-to-knee-to-calf. I do LOVE the leg opening though. They look great with heels!

Up Next:
Finishing the olive green vest and then hopefully I can make the flares. If not, I'll get started on the dress from 3/2017 Burda mag.

And after THAT...vacation sewing! YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yep, I'm *that* excited! I had a somewhat hellish 2014-2016 and am stoked to be taking my giant babies to Disneyworld! I'll have to post plans for a vacation mini-wardrobe.

Until Later!

February Wrap-Up...And I'm Out.

On the fabric front, I did not add anything to stash in the month of February.

This month I sewed:

• McCall's 6702 top in navy cotton sateen
• Baste + Gather Kendall Skinny jeans in gray stretch denim (pattern not available for sale)
• Burda 7136 shirt in green/white gingham seersucker
• Simplicity 1499 vest in olive cotton sateen (WIP)

Wow. Who is this person that sews just a few things in a month!? :)

I really love the navy top. It has some fun details and the fabric is amazing!!

I think the gray skinnies will come in handy. I don't wear jeans very often but those can go to work or weekend and casual or more dressed up. So I hope to wear them a ton.

The green gingham shirt makes me happy! I've wanted one for awhile - either this green or navy gingham. So glad to finally have this versatile item in the closet!

The vest is cute so far. I added welt pockets but wish I would have done flaps like my inspiration photo:

 

At any rate, it's coming along.

I'm not adding studs or a closure. I also intend to have visible self-fabric bias binding (maybe not as wide as the inspiration pic) and epaulets .

I totally meant to add the little belt-like thing in back, caught in the princess seams and connected via D-ring, but had topstitched the seams before I remembered. Maybe I'll do something more like they did here.

But, alas, I am out.

I mentioned the contest would be a stretch for me because of a hectic schedule for February and March. Having finished 3.5 items in the month means I won't get the others done. It's fine though!

Part of that is a still full plate with lots of weekend time taken up. Plus my parents are visiting for a week! I only see them 1-2 times a year so yes, sewing takes a full back seat. I don't foresee sewing at all while they are here. So to meet the contest deadline I would somehow have to manage to sew a pair of jeans, a jacket, a skirt (or other bottom), 2 tops, an accessory (which I could go 'easy' and make a scarf) PLUS take 10 sets of outfit photos...in 3 weeks. With an already full plate.

Not. Going. To. Happen.

Lastly, while I'm being generally very positive this year (so I won't complain too much), I'll also say I've gotten way disenchanted with the PR site and that is yet another reason. Sometimes I try to just go into what I think may be 'safe' threads but good grief. The climate is just really off lately. For now, my patterns are catalogued there and I'll maintain my membership. The thought of coming up with a new system for this:

is daunting! Hahaha! I read what people do with Evernote and other apps and...I ain't doing that. For real. It will not happen. So I'm not really posting pattern reviews or interacting much in the forums and it makes it easier to bow out of a contest.

For March I do plan to:
-Finish the vest
-Sew the Birkin flare jeans (I love this pattern and the wash of denim I chose)
-Sew SOMETHING from my 2017 Burda issues -- btw, I am amending my challenge. I will sew from current issues. It felt like more pressure to find something from that month vs just choosing something from the current issue. So I'm going back to my original form of the challenge. Even though I'm not completely jazzed with Burda so far this year.

January: I've seen some cute versions of this one on the Russian Burda site and may sew it.

February: I like all 3 of these so we'll have to see how fabric stash + patterns shake out! Although the middle dress is really a summer piece.

 

 

March: I really only like the wedding dresses and don't have any reason to sew something more formal. I am also thinking that I could do this as a sleeveless dress:

 

 

I like the twist front and neckline. AND it's the petite pattern. I am kind of thinking of ponte too.

Hmm, this is starting to sound like a really good idea! LOL! :) Adding this to the March plans!

 

I hope to be more active this month online. I miss reading blogs and interacting! Until later!

 



PR SODUKO CONTEST 2 OF 10: Burda 7136

I have a ton of stuff going on but I won't whine about it. I HAVE been sewing! LOL! I actually have 3 things completed and 1 more in progress. I'll start the Birkin flares after the vest is completed. Then the white skirt and white jacket hopefully by mid-March. I'm saving the tees - easiest items - for last. 

So again, no real modeled photos. Sorry. There'll be tons of pics though when everything is finished.

I've made this pattern a few times. When I made the last one, in chambray, I finished it and HATED it. I ended up chopping the sleeves to around elbow length and that made it wearable. Well, same thing happened this time. I finally had a lightbulb moment and went back to the pattern. Turns out I royally screwed up on the full bicep adjustment after making it the first time and there's tons of extra, unneeded fabric through the center of the sleeve. Huzzah! I can fix it for next time. 

I did a good job on the collar! 

This was my first time sewing seersucker and it was fine. I didn't lose the 'crinkles' anywhere even with pressing.

How I ended up finishing the sleeves. 

ALMOST perfect on matching the yoke to the back pattern piece! 

My shirt was going to have pockets. I made the first one and sewed it on. It was crooked - well it was straight on the flat pattern but crooked on my body. I removed it and reattached it. Too low. I removed it and reattached it. Too far from the center front. I removed it and gave it MAJOR side-eye and decided there was no way in {a warm, fiery place} would I reattach that pocket again.

I really like the finished shirt! It screams spring/summer!  I think it's going to be an awesome wardrobe piece as it looks great with SO many of my existing bottoms. And yes, I fitted it very closely on purpose.

WIP:

Simplicity 1499 vest in olive

Vest front and back are ready for topstitching. I added princess seams to the back and will be topstitching ALL THE THINGS on this! :)

Until later!!!!

PR Soduko Contest 1 of 10: McCalls 6702

I have been MIA. I have some sort of anxiety-induced insomnia or insomnia-induced anxiety. Either way - JOY!  :sarcasm:

 

I haven't sewn much but I did get some time in. I am now unsure if I'll finish the contest. Not good (for me) that I've only done 2 items in the first two weeks. I have a few weekends where I know I won't be able to sew (yes, a FEW. WHEW!). Oh well, I am happy with my plan and they're all things I plan to add anyway so I'll keep chugging along. We'll see how I fare around this time next month.

 

First up was M6702. I made this pattern once before. Well kinda. I had cut it out from a red/white/blue burnout cotton voile with plans for a cute Independence Day outfit. Burnout fabric + iron = bad mix. Burned a hole right through the back. Have been meaning to revisit it ever since. It is now OOP so if you have it and are looking for cute summer tops - try it!

 

I had a size 14 cut out and it is quite the roomy top. I do need an FBA though and would add an inch should I make this again. Plus, I know how easy it is to rotate a bust dart into shoulder gathers now - YAY! I did a slash and spread for more butt room but made no other adjustments.

 

Front 

 

 

I really like this hi-low hem.

 

 

I LOVE the back cut out. The round portion is finished with bias tape (I used premade here) and then the upper is a double yoke which I finished with the burrito method. So clean. So perfect. Swoon...

 



 

 

I adore the collar too. It is slightly rounded giving it a feminine vibe but not overly sweet. The collar and collar bands plus placket all went together fabulously. Helped I'm sure by this amazing cotton sateen. It was Sue's Pick one day on FM and I bit on it. Not realizing it was only 45" or so, I had to go sleeveless and this was a great fit.

 

The placket finishing directions MADE PERFECT SENSE! GASP! haha. I decided on these non-functional buttons because 1) I had just the 2 in stash and 2) they match the topstitching thread almost exactly. #WIN

 

No "real" photos. I will have to take a gazillion for the contest and don't plan to do it until I can do outfit photos. Meaning, as rows of the grid are completed, I will then take individual photos of items plus outfit photos. I don't want to get to the end of March and have to photograph a dozen outfit combos. It takes a surprisingly long time!

 

So here is a crappy mirror selfie. I wanted to show a friend the back opening on my body.

You can also see that I need a smidge more bust room. I'm really filling it out. The back fits fine when I'm not doing acrobatics with my phone :)

 

Next up are my Baste + Gather Kendall Skinnies (never released pattern). The upper part is based on the Birkin Flares with the legs taken in. I'll also be making some Birkins for the contest. Woohoo! Love those jeans :-D

 

These need a hem and I'll just review them with the flares when they're done. Since the pattern is not available to others I don't see a need for a dedicated blog post.

 

Until later! Hopefully I'll be less of a zombie going forward. I've missed blog land!

January Wrap-Up (already??)

I sewed like a normal person this month! Wait, I think. Normal people sew 3-4 items a month, no?

This month I sewed:

• M7358 top (I may have incorrectly included this in December. I sewed the dress in December and the top in January while on vacation)
• M7476 vest in black ponte
• M6886 dress in striped ponte
• Burda 11/2012 joggers in olive knit for my daughter

I don't have a favorite or fail this month. The top, I really liked but when I attempted to wear it it kept riding up. Weird because the dress is fine. I had to take the top off the day I was going to wear it. I like the vest and it's functional. I really like the M6886 dress too.

The accomplishment is definitely the cold shoulder mod. I don't really see excess potential for a pattern. That's why I own so many. I buy for details because I'm not generally interested in "hacking" but I'm glad I did this one!  So who knows, maybe it's something I'll start doing more often!

Also, I spent $56.71 of my $500 fabric budget in January.

As mentioned a post or two back, I plan on doing the wardrobe sudoku contest on PR. I'm pretty jazzed about it!

So far I'm not too worried about getting it all done but I know I have some crazy times coming up. I'm not going to worry, I'll just do my best to try to finish. I have to be very organized to pull this off and am thinking to do:

Navy sleeveless shirt (M6702)

Green/white gingham shirt (Burda 7136)

White skirt (Lekala 5871 or Burda 2/2014. Remember my 'battle of the skirts' on the old blog?)
Blue jeans (Birkin flares)
Grey jeans (Kendall skinnies)
Olive vest (S1499)
Print tee (M6964)
Grey tee (M6886)
White jacket

I am torn!! I bought a white boucle to make B6169 (of which I have 2). I really like S1699 when I made it except for the fabric. And I think the boucle would be so cute made up with that pattern. But I also would like the *style* of jacket in V1465 with this collection of garments.

B6169 * S1699 * V1465

Sigh.

Lastly I want to say that of the RTW items I bought I only had to return one thing! I am so happy with my new clothes. YAY! I was concerned about these wide leg cropped pants but I am so happy I went for them!

Now, they need some tailoring (I have a person for that. I hate alterations). I went with a size 14 because butt/thighs but the waist is far too big. And I got the 'regular' length but they are way too long. I need them shortened about 1.5"

This crepe is so delicious! It has a nice weight to it and is inky black. 

I cut the pockets open because I like pockets! But they aren't usable. They are "real" but the pocket bag is extremely shallow. I guess that makes sense because the Burda pants I was going to make with the pocket situated similarly was a giant fail. 

They looked really cute with a variety of tops; simple tees tucked in, my chambray shirt, sweaters that aren't too long. And I really like them with my existing olive vest and with non-blazer style jackets.

I wanted to include this one so you can see the full width of the flare but then my necklace was doing the 'boob lasso' thing :)

So ready to start the contest!!! Are you joining? What do you think about my jacket choices in relation to my overall mini wardrobe?