Updating the Sewing Plan for 2022!

I was discussing my Beatrice (EEEEEK! Blog posts to come!) and was going on and on about how excited I am to improve my fitting. While I do work toward a good fit, there are some things that I just accept because the "fix" is too complex to figure out with the muslin, trying to assess while twisting and turning or taking photos, having to remove the garment to pin/pinch out or add and BLEH! The dressform should really be beneficial for that (and it SO looks like meeeeee!)

I tried just a few garments on the form and the next time I wore that garment type, it's like the fitting issues lit up and jumped out at me! 

I have thoughts and ideas about which patterns fit me best. And often times, if I want/need a specific garment, I'll usually just go to Burda because I don't want to figure it all out. 

So I've decided to embark on a new journey for 2022! I am going to sew a dress from each of the pattern companies in my stash. 

The Rules 

• There are no rules because it's my challenge and my blog! :)
• The focus is on dresses as it's a better view of fitting the whole body - neckline, shoulder, front, back, bust, waist, hip, etc. I'm going to try to ensure that I choose some patterns with sleeves since I have large biceps and have issues at times with the relationship between the sleeve and the bodice.
• I have some one-offs that I purchased as a newbie/newish sewer and am not going to force myself to use any company's designs. I will focus on the pattern companies whose offerings I like.

• There is no specific order, just one per month (there happened to be 12 pattern companies I was interested in!)
• I'm inclined to make it wovens-only, but I'm not sure yet how to translate tissue fitting to knits when there's negative ease, for example. And if there was ever a time where fabric choice mattered, it's with knits. Which is why I don't generally muslin them. But, we'll see!
• I don't need to or plan to pre-select the patterns from each company. It will all depend on how the mood (or fabric inspiration) strikes!
• I will document my findings! 

I followed a tutorial to drape a bodice and EUREKA! My body always forces fabric into an armhole dart. I have definitely had garments where I went ahead and sewed that dart...but now I know that I need to make that adjustment! 

This has been a busy month, and I will confess that I was tempted to use a previously sewn pattern since there's only a week left in the month. But I'm going to actually go for it!

January's project will be a Simplicity pinafore dress from 1325. I've wanted to sew this pattern for FORVER! But at the time, with my thirty-four-5th-letter-of-the-alphabet measurement (I don't want to attract weirdos and spam to my blog), I didn't want to even consider working on that front pattern piece. I have a couple tie-neck tops with more planned (cause I love 'em!), plus I wear turtlenecks more often now that I'm a 3rd letter of the alphabet size :-p, and it's something I feel confident I can get done before the month is out. 

Burda 2/2013 #143

Have I mentioned how much I love Burda plus patterns for my lower half? well I dooooooo! :)

I was doing wardrobe assessment number 317 an realized that while I have a lot of pants -- I have 6 pair of black pants (they are all different silhouettes, leg shapes, fabric types), 4 pair of blue pants, 3 pair of camel/tan pants -- they are different, but there's so much repetition in color! 

I first sewed a Burda plus pant pattern back in 2017, HERE. That crotch curve was such a great match that I often check the Plus section for pants. The only problem is, they very often call for stretch wovens which is kind of annoying. Bleh. 

I have a lower left shoulder and higher right hip

I had a pair of ponte pants in a similar color awhile ago but they never fit quite right (not enough crotch depth), so while I wore them all the time because of the color, they just weren't comfortable. And as my sewing and fitting has evolved, I absolutely refuse to wear uncomfortable clothing. 

I'd located a couple sources of ponte in this shade but on an impromptu trip to SR Harris recently, I saw this suiting and jumped on it! Initially I thought it was a little too thick, but it works SO well. I was very tempted to go back and get more to have in stash should I decide on a jacket or wider leg pants in the future. So far, I haven't caved :)

I started these right before Christmas and they got to the basting stage at prime-PMS bloating time. I have a serious knack for this, it's crazy! On December 27th I started feeling bad and on December 28th I tested positive for Covid. So this is a 2021 project (I have yet to sew anything for 2022!).

I cut a size 46 with a 44 front crotch. I also decreased the leg width and now, I can't remember by how much! I measured a couple of ankle-length, cuffed trousers, searched online and found leg widths for a few pair of pants, and then narrowed it based on that. I'm thinking I removed 3/8" from each seam, or a total of 3". 

What makes these pants REALLY awesome? I used the Singer Reference Library, Sewing Pants that Fit to construct them. GET ACTUAL SEWING RESOURCES WITHOUT DEPENDING ON PATTERNS FOR CONSTRUCTION INFO!!! Sorry for yelling in bold. 

But for real. The more you expand your knowledge, the better sewer you will become. You will be able to construct as instructed by the pattern designer, or you can sub in something equally or more(!) suitable. 

For the cuffs, I pinned the hem up to the desired length. I ended up removing 1/4" when serging the raw edge. I then folded up a 2 5/8" hem, blindstitched this hem, then folded up 1.5" and tacked at the inseam and side seam. 

The pockets, the fly front, the waistband...all of it turned out so, so well. I ordered no-sew trouser hooks on eBay and while waiting for them to arrive from overseas, I ordered some from The Sewing Place. They are larger/more heavy duty and the sets that I received later are a match for my RTW pants. And of course, the day after I decided to go for it and insert them, the sets from eBay showed up. They have to be inserted prior to finishing the waistband as you stick the prongs through the fabric, add the backer, and fold in the prongs (I used a needle-nose plier).  My waistband was a bit narrower than my RTW pants so that's something I'll keep in mind for the future.

I also decided to add double-fold bias tape to the facing AND took the time to insert it properly. :-p -aka- in 2 passes. I stitched it to the right side, folder over and pressed, then topstitched. It's so much better than my lame attempts to try to keep the facing sandwiched between the bias tape for the entire length of the facing!

I decided to do the fold over on the front waistband and it took me forever to figure it out - COVID brain!! I got it all pinned out and it was nighttime and I refused to cut the excess. WE DO NOT CUT FABRIC AT NIGHT! Lol!!! The next day I was able to tackle it and finish up the pants.

And this pattern will for sure become my TNT trouser pattern. Adjustments to make for the future:
-allowance for high right hip

-tweak front darts
-tiny extension on the back crotch point to resolve those small folds at the upper inner thigh
-adjust waistband and facings to allow for the fold over style
-trace off another copy with a slight bootcut

I am SO excited to have a pair of pants this color in my wardrobe!! I think I'll be wearing them VERY often :)

Burda 10/2018 #115

I've had this one on the brain for a long time, the collar is too cool! I traced a size 40 neckline, shoulder, and front armhole, the rest is a size 42. The pattern is very rectangular/straight from the bust down and that just doesn't work for me. My hips are 2 (pattern) sizes bigger than my shoulders and I had to make some adjustments.

I did a slash and spread with a hinge (I didn't want to add a ton of width all the way through the hemline) and added to the hip. This pattern piece looks a little wonky. I smoothed the transition a bit more when cutting it out, but it worked out okay. I still have it hanging up some on the back, but eh, it's fine! 

I totally forgot to take pics with my wide belt! It was really cute when I tried it mid-construction. 

I love the bell sleeve! It's a nice change and they aren't so wide that they get in the way. Of course, I did my normal 1" bicep adjustment but this fabric doesn't have a ton of stretch and I ended up sewing the sleeves at 3/8" for a bit more ease. 

It's totally more this plum color vs the grape color in the pics on me. 
The fabric was a find from local designer Kokoon Fashion.

The pattern includes a zipper, which is necessary with the high, fitted neckline. Since the rest of the pattern isn't fitted, it probably doesn't need such a long zipper. Then, I goofed on placement so I had to sew a hook into the collar. Arrgh!

Which, speaking of, when Burda confuses you, just follow along as you're working through the step. I read it several times and it wasn't until I was working on the collar that it made sense. There's a small section on the neckline that is reinforced, clipped, and hemmed by hand (I went back and topstitched it). Then, the collar parts are reinforced at the notch, clipped, and partially sewn. Turn out and attach the raw edge to the neck edge. I serged it together in one pass rather than turning it in and stitching it by hand. Then, the finished edges are twisted around each other and secured at the zipper. It works! It's pretty floppy when it isn't on the body, but the tension holds it in place nicely.

side slit

I'm glad I finally made this one and may sew the top version in the future, the shoulder fit on this is awesome. 

Helloooooo 2022!

The past 20+ months have been weird, in so many ways. On the sewing front, I hit this weird snag where I just didn't feel confident starting more complex projects. I really didn't understand it either! I would look at things I wanted to make and decide I just wasn't able. I've done the same thing with machine knitting and it's SO unlike me, it's been so hard! 

Sewing Goals

I have somehow gotten over that slump and am ready to dig in. I decided that this year, I am going to sew some wish list items:

Trench coat - Let's be honest, I will likely use a Burda pattern, but I also really like this new M8246 though I don't like the buttons in the vent...but that length is too long anyway, so I would shorten it to just above that vent opening. I am also a bit concerned about the volume in the sleeves. But otherwise, I think the details are so modern (it looks like it has inseam pockets and that would be a NO). 

The Burda 11/2012 (on the right) is a little outdated with the lapel size and shape and I don't like the pointed storm flaps. The vintage S8975 has really great details but if I'm not mistaken, I found that in a size 14 and would have to do some grading. 

I'm not willing to entertain Indie patterns for a coat aside from Style Arc (their current patterns aren't quite classic-trench style), Silhouette Patterns (it's beautiful but the lapel is a tiny bit on the large side). 

This is not a diss against anyone's trench made from any other Indie pattern.  

Burda blazer 2/2020

I have accepted that I love jackets and cardigans and blazers and I am not going to hold back any more! I'm embracing my love for toppers and will make/buy the jackets and toppers that I want. So, there! 

I also have plans to finish my WIP Burda 6/2019 moto style boucle jacket, soon. And my jacket wishlist is always long (Burda 1/2021, 1/2019, 12/2017, V1710, V8910, GAH!)

I did find two AMAZING deals on Poshmark recently. For a total of $48, I scored both of these Talbots jackets. The Glen plaid is unlined and is a size 14. I have another Talbots blazer in a 14 and it's nice to be able to actually wear sleeves underneath, which is not an option for most of my RTW blazers! It's a boxier style and the fabric is quite heavy. 

The other plaid jacket is new and was less than $17 with shipping so I couldn't pass it up even though it's a size 12. While it grazes the body nicely, you can probably see that the sleeve is snug. So I will only be able to wear this one with sleeveless tops. 

excuse my headless, dirty mirror COVID pics

Formal black dress - No patterns in mind yet. I attended 2 funerals this year and had to scramble both times to find something to wear and that happened to me last year too. There's no good reason for that now, is it? It will be solid black, no print (even tonal print), likely a higher neckline (I do love a boatneck), with sleeves and a straight skirt. 

Little black dress or jumpsuit - I made the Style Arc Mimi G Maya dress a few years back but I don't think I can fit it at the moment. One of my new VikiSews patterns (Iliana and Leora) may be a good fit here!

Corduroy blazer for my husband using Vogue 8890

I. Scored. A. NEEDLE BOARD!!!! Finally! I was typing this and listed the blazer as a goal, and I randomly went to search eBay. I found a new Dritz board for like $70 and hit 'buy' faster than you could imagine. 

So that's 5 specific sewing goals for 2022. I'm not making any goals around stashing - fabric or patterns, or even using up stash. Perhaps I'll reexamine that later in the year, but for now, it's just not important to me.

I also want to give energy to those projects that I just really WANT. And I don't have to justify if I need it or not. I want to find my creative freedom in the sewing room again. 

Machine Knitting Goals

I decided I have to just dive in here, as well. A sewing friend started machine knitting mid November and has cranked out a couple of sweater projects and really got me inspired. Getting my sewing mojo back too led me to a Just Do It! moment. I am looking forward to learning, experimenting, and developing my skills around this hobby. 

I do have some specific goals:

Make matching sweaters for the grandsons

Make St. John copycat pants (the woman I bought my machine from is sort of renowned in the MK world and worked as a knitwear designer for major brands, for many years. She's since retired but sold me her pant pattern that's used to create the $600-800 St. John pants!)

Complete 5 types of garments for myself:

• A raglan sweater or cardigan
• A sweater or cardigan with set-in sleeves
• A dolman sweater with some type of stitch pattern (garter, fair isle, lace, something!)
• Socks
• A wrap or poncho

I think these garments each represent a set of skills and I think completed full garments, will help boost my confidence, even if they aren't perfect (ha!) or even wearable.

Personal Goals

In my personal life, I have two primary goals:

• Begin graduate school
• Read at least 3 books per month

Best wishes to you all, for a happy, productive 2022!

2021 Wrap-Up

I know everyone says it, but, HOW DID THIS YEAR GO BY SO QUICKLY?!? It was simultaneously long and arduous but over as quick as lightning. Funny how that happens. 

On a personal note, the new job I started last December quickly turned sour. It was about 5/6 weeks in that I realized I'd made a mistake. And I tried to do everything in my power, but you can't change someone else. I left in April and soon after found my actual dream job. I've been there since mid-June and it has been an amazing transition. 

I've faced some really tough family issues this year and have been in therapy consistently all year. But I am seeing progress as the year comes to a close. Hopeful for better, brighter days. 

My little grandson? He became a Big Brother 21 days before his 1st birthday! :) Those boys are so sweet, so well-loved (and well fed!), and an absolute joy. 

So 2021 did indeed bring many joyous moments: DD was able to walk at commencement this year (she graduated last year but it was virtual), my parents visited for 2 weeks this summer, I had a girl's trip with my closest friends, I started an amazing job and welcomed a new grandson and that's where I will keep my focus. 

My 2021 sewing goals? Blergh. LOL! I had 9 goals:

• Sew a trench coat
• Sew more jackets/blazers
• Sew bras/bralettes
• Sew 2 pieces of silk from stash
• Make at least 1 machine knit project per quarter
• Sew a set of travel bags
• Sew a blazer for my husband
• Sew jeans for my husband
• Sew a quilt for grandson

Yeah, no. LOL! I started a jacket that's a UFO, I muslined a bralette pattern (I am realizing I just don't care about sewing lingerie, unfortunately), I sewed one piece of silk, and made two items on my knitting machine. 

2021 Totals:

• 41 items (8 gifts/33 for me)
• 24 from stash (59%)
• 68.75 yards
• 33.75 from stash (55%)
• 50+ yards donated

I was conservative in my estimate of donated fabrics but will say I donated 4 plastic Mood Fabrics bags worth to my kid's former HS for their theatre program. And considering I almost always buy fabric in cuts of 2 to 4 yards, I think that's a decent rough estimate. 

• 68.75 yards sewn
• 50 yards donated
• 67 yards purchased

In the first 9 months of the year, I had purchased just 25 yards of fabric. My ratio was great! I think donating that fabric sent overboard, LOL! I purchased 42 yards of fabric from October-December. So technically, I brought in 56% of the fabric I used/sent out. I'll allow it :-P

This collage includes: Burda bias cut cami (rated love) * Simplicity top (rated okay) * Burda UFO jacket * bralette muslin * Burda hoodie (rated love) * Burda dress (rated love) * Simplicity tops (rated love)

Garment status

Digging deeper into the 33 items I sewed for myself, I rated them: 

• 13 items that I love, including:
• Burda 1/2021 cardigan
• McCall's 6744 floral dress
• Burda 1/2019 polka-dot hoodie (pictured above)
• Burda 2/2013 trousers (current WIP)
• It's worth noting that 7 of the 13 are Burda magazine patterns

• 3 items that I like, including:
• Burda 5/2020 silk charmeuse top (the back slit droops which makes it a like, not a love)
• McCall's 6844 cardigan (the fabric is a little itchy, boo!)
• Simplicity 9275 top (I love everything about it except the the pooling in the back

• 5 items that are just okay, including:
• Simplicity 8529 black/olive top (the olive fabric is a little too drapey)
• McCall's 6754 blue floral dress (It's a little too short! wah!)
• Simplicity 8337 emerald green top (pictured above, I don't love the ruffle)
• New Look 6651 dress in blue print voile (it may be a tad too matronly, yet to be reviewed)
• Burda 1/2018 black and white print cotton skirt (Minerva crafts project - fabric just too firm)

• 6 UFOs (I don't have a requirement of myself to finish UFOs, some may become FOs, some might become wadders):
• Burda 6/2018 black & white boucle jacket (pictured above). I just got burnout on the project and then it was too small, and now it fits again so I am hopeful that I'll finish it
• 2 skirts from my TNT Butterick 5760 (one needs a hem, one needs a lining)
• McCall's 7920 dress (I chose a white fabric and instead of looking sleek and chic, it looks kind of nurse-ish)
• Burda 5/2020 dress (it is a fitted garment and you know, Burda means FITTED. I cut my regular size and when I basted it, it was WAY too small. So I'll revisit in the late spring/early summer and determine if it's worth finishing.)
• Burda 5/2020 skirt (I always end up with a fitted bottom at the basting stage during PMS week. ALWAYS! And I put this aside and didn't come back to it, and then it was cold. I will finish it because I love it, but it is definitely not a winter garment so it'll be revisited.)

Of my 5 wadders, the real disappointments were the red & white striped cotton jersey I paid an arm and a leg for from Marcy Tilton that bled all over the place, the clip-dot voile McCall's 8042 top, and the recent fail that was the Simplicity 9373 chartreuse cardigan. 

I always sew more tops than other garments. What can I say, I'm consistent! Also worth noting that of the 14 tops I sewed, 10 of them were either Burda magazine or Simplicity, which is consistent with the pattern brands I think fit me well. 

Garment Type

Of the 33 garments, there were:

• 14 tops (4 wadders, 1 donated because it was too small)
• 8 dresses (2 UFOs)
• 5 skirts (3 UFOs, I intend to finish all)
• 4 cardigans (1 wadder)
• 1 jacket (UFO)
• 1 pant (WIP)

ONE PAIR OF PANTS?! That's insanity! I think I spent a lot of the year hoping/planning to lose weight and ended up buying a few pair of pants to get me through. I'm excited to sew a few new pairs, soon.

Pattern Company

Of the 33 garments sewn for myself, I sewed:

• 13 Burda Magazine
• 8 McCall's
• 7 Simplicity
• 3 Butterick
• 1 New Look 
• 1 Burda envelope

I sewed a Kommatia pattern for my daughter but otherwise, no Indie patterns this year. I really don't feel like I missed them either. I did purchase a handful of Viki Sews patterns during a sale (I got 6 or 7 for ~$30) so we will see if any of them are sewn in 2022!

I should have my Beatrice Form very soon after the new year and I'm curious to see how it will change my sewing life :) I definitely do not plan to touch those VS patterns until I have it. It'll be so much easier to see the fit changes needed with the form!

Goodbye, 2021!!

This collage includes: failed top due to pattern and fabric (Burda 8/2016+Marcy Tilton cotton jersey) * machine knit sweater for grandson * golf club covers for my brother * S9011 dress * Burda 3/2014 top sewn for the Rebecca Page sewing summit * M7061 hoodie * Burda 1/2021 (I LOVE THIS TOP!) * M6016 baby shirt * matching shirt for dad with M6044

***********************

I worked on this blog post Monday afternoon and then my energy started to plummet. I chalked it up to a long morning of interviews (we conducted 4 back to back) and a big lunch. Tuesday morning, I had 4 more interviews to conduct and really started to drag. Plus, I had crazy congestion, sneezing and coughing. I jokingly asked my husband, "Do I have COVID?" I scheduled a test and just over 24 hours later, discovered I was indeed Covid positive. I am fully vaccinated and I do believe my case is considered mild. It's uncomfortable, for sure, but mild. I am isolating and doing all I can to take care. I'm pretty salty that my long holiday break was tainted! I was ready to do some serious sewing! 

I'm going to work on my 2022 planning post while I have the energy :-)