Contest Sewing: Burda 6/2012 #129

EEP! Let's start by saying, I love this dress. Everything about it. E.V.E.R.Y.T.H.I.N.G.

Pattern Review:

Pattern Sizing:
I used various sizing based on my experience sewing Burda magazine patterns. I used 40 neckline and shoulder (front and back), 42 front and 44 back.

Fabric Used:
Kaufmann cotton 1/8" gingham in navy and white from Craftsy and white cotton batiste from Hobby Lobby.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I decided to make the bodice portion about 30" finished and a 10" peplum. I made the lining first to make sure I liked the length (and to check for any other pattern adjustments). 

I added 1.5" when I cut the fashion fabric. I also moved the bust dart point back an inch. Burda bust darts aren't quite right for me. I need to figure it out. I don't think it's just too high or too long, I think it's more the positioning. They kind of go straight from the side seam toward the bust point and I prefer them to be angled upward more.

I cut the belt to finish at about 80" long using two pieces of fabric 5" wide by 40" long. 

For fine fabrics like these, I like to just trim 1/8" from the lining at the neckline and armholes to eliminate the need to understitch. It works very well, especially with lightweight fabrics. 

 

Using the clean finish method where you leave 3 seams open, I attached the lining and fabric at the neckline and armholes, trimmed and clipped as needed, and pulled the backs through the shoulder seams to turn it right side out. Then inserted the zipper, and sewed the side seams as one starting with the lining, continuing through the armhole, to the fashion fabric. I slipstitched the lining to the zipper by hand. Also, I use a 1" strip of lightweight fusible with invisible zippers.

 

 

For the flounce I made a rectangle the width of the pattern pieces and 10" long. I slashed and spread 1.5" between each section. Should I use this method again, I'll do more than 4 sections. I then traced that onto a new sheet of paper and added seam and hem allowances.

I attached the flounce to the skirt with a 3/8" seam and did a 5/8" narrow hem on the bottom of the flounce. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will totally sew this dress again as intended! It's a beautiful silhouette. 

Conclusion: 
I am so happy that I went for it! I absolutely LOVE everything about this dress. It just screams summer in both style and fabric, the fit is great, and the back v makes me happy!

J.Crew dress: $128

My version: $15.60

*I am wearing a normal bra with this dress. When your bra band sits where it's "supposed to" aka below the shoulder blades, even the deep V is okay! However, it would be really easy to raise that on the pattern piece. Just lay it on paper, move the center back up sufficiently, match the shoulder line and then connect the two points.

I feel fancy!