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Tuesday, January 19, 2021

Burda 1/2021 #117

Sometimes, simple is best! 

This pattern is from the Burda 1/2021 issue and it is a very basic garment, but that just means it is waiting for some special treatment!

This sweater knit was picked up December 2018 when my husband took me to SR Harris for a mini shopping spree for Christmas. I don't remember the composition but it feels incredible. It's drapey without being clingy, it's a color that I've been interested in, didn't care for much as a solid, but love this somewhat marled version, and it's warm and cozy. 

I was going to make a dress for it at one point but am glad I held out. It's perfect for this sweater!

As a complete Burda stan, I generally know how to handle sizing just based on the type of pattern and looking at the pattern piece illustrations. 

I cut a 40 neckline and 42 body. added 1" to the back hip and did a cheater 1/2" swayback adjustment. I did a 3/8" forward shoulder adjustment and a 3/4" bicep adjustment.

Lastly, because Burda thinks everyone is Amazonian, I did not add any hem allowances to the body or sleeves! And I'm 5'5" (and a half!)

As you can see below, this adjustment in back without a center back seam doesn't (can't?) fully eliminate pooling but *for me*, it's a much more acceptable amount. 

I adore the full sleeves! The drape of the fabric really helps. I believe the magazine calls for a slightly heftier knit as well (e.g., this isn't so much for lightweight, slinky rayon jerseys). I believe I used 3/8" elastic in the sleeves. 
I don't typically like turn and stitch necklines but it works with this pattern (the neckline is pretty straight in back and while curved in front, it isn't too extreme. I stitched one shoulder seam, serged the neckline, and stitched the other seam (I'm not a fan of finishing necklines flat unless it's kids' clothes or perhaps loungewear). Then I serged the neckline, turned in and topstitched. 

Otherwise, I am nearly done with my version of the Burda cardigan I made for my daughter (most recent blog post). I "just" need to cut out and interface the facings, stitch, trim, understitch, topstitch, and hem :-p

I didn't sew much this weekend, I was all knitting! I found a machine knitter in Rochester, NY that gives private lessons and I learned 2 very valuable things! So I'll be practicing more on my standard gauge but also, I've been getting to know my mid gauge. I picked some Blue Sky Woolstok from my LYS and knitted up this cowl. I kept touching it Monday to see if it was dry because I was SO excited about it! :-p



For the rest of January I plan to:
finish my cardigan
knit a cowl for my mom
make some golf club covers for my brother
make a hoodie (I need a 2nd one because I get really sad when mine is in the laundry!)

There are lots of things I want to sew but I need to be a little(teeny) bit more practical. I love skirts and dresses but it's just too cold (it's 15 today!) and I know I'm not going to wear tights in the house. For whatever reason, that feels a bridge too far. LOL!

I am making my transition to middle age apparently. While I haven't gained any additional weight (I got a quick Covid +10 but that's held steady), everything just feels tight on my belly now! wahhhhh!! I would like several more pair of pull-on pants and need to raid the pattern and fabric stash to decide. 

More later!